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We really like state parks. I guess we have been lucky, nothing has been pilfered. We leave the cap wide open and setup when we leave it to look around. We do lock the trailer. I have found most parks have city water at the site. We did a 4,000 mile trip up to NY and back down the coast to VA and back to Arkansas in 2024 and I think a SP in Indiana is the only one with no site water. We did 7,000 last year out west to Montana and down the coast to CA. Every SP had water. Maybe it is a northern thing.

While in Seligman Arizona for a Rt 66 event we saw one of these (blue & white) in the parade of vehicles headed to Kingman.

I just saw one for the first time yesterday at Glacial Lake SP - had to look it up. Apparently, they don’t get much bigger than this one. Web site says they ARE double-wall fiberglass - but weigh way less. I haven’t talked to the owners yet, but curious how they like it.

As a friend of mine would say “camping is a 4-star hotel without room service”.

Some of us still backpack.

We stayed at a couple of private campgrounds and “RV Parks” in WI. Some were actually pretty nice and not terribly crowded - like the parking lots with hookups - that many RV Parks are. Yes, they cost more - but you typically have more amenities - nicer showers, laundry, maybe even cable. Though we like and gravitate towards State Parks - we’re finding that security is frequently lacking. Very truncated staff hours - especially mid-week. Often no access control at all. We’ve seen some pretty shady characters come and go as we’ve traveled across the country. Just a casual reminder to keep anything loose and remotely valuable locked up.

The one we’re at in Minnesota (Glacial Lakes SP) doesn’t have water at sites either. The downside of the Northern states I guess. We’ve been to a couple of Western and Northwestern states that have water, but either don’t turn them on until (what I would call) pretty late in the season - or - use the “freeze proof” hydrants. ‘Course, they’re only freeze proof if they’re turned off and allowed to drain. I froze my hose a couple of times. (I mean that literally by the way…) and ruined my good regulator and pressure gauge by leaving them hooked up when the temps dropped to 18F one night.

I thought “camping” was that thing people did with tents, sleeping bags, and cooking over an open fire? I guess to some, even that would be a bit wussy.

I would not jump to that conclusion. Think of this as a next step in testing. If it doesn't work, meaning your oven blows a 20A non-GFCI circuit breaker, then your oven is drawing too much power and should be replaced. If it works and your readout still shows it's using about 11A +/- then it's the GCFI. Once it has been determined that it's working in the above test, then look into the Xantrex. It's likely the low-power cutoff, but check out these posts. Too bad in the first one the OP never wrote back to communicate cause (this happens too often). In Bill's post a hard reboot solved his issue, or it could be something else. My fix for a 2KW Xantrex was to replace it with a 3KVA Victron MP2! 🤣 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/11320-xantrex-inverter/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9255-xantrex-inverter-issues-try-a-hard-reboot/

Potawatmie Park under construction this season. Other Door County State Park Peninsula is very popular. FireFly in northern Vilas Co is highly recommended. A real nice park on a small quiet lake. The area has many many inland lakes and thousands of acres of public lands. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://northwoodswisconsin.com/northern-wisconsin-recreation/northern-wisconsin-camping/firefly-lake-campground/&ved=2ahUKEwiEw6jv_PeVAxUpoCsGHQQRLdIQFnoECGIQAQ&sqi=2&usg=AOvVaw25dOd2yyBQgR0ACbU_0RQL

I will give it a shot by hooking the Oli into non GFCI breaker. That will prove if the GFCI breaker to the RV port has problems/ causing problems. FYI: the previous owner never boondocked and always did full hookups. If it works on a Non-GFCI then that would mean that I would not be able to run the oven off of the Xantrex boondocking since the other GFCI outlet is built into the Xantrex.

Not at State run WI Natural Resource Government public campgrounds. However many very nice campgrounds. We call it camping...

So I went to a deep dark place with my Truma in the past because I always had condensate dripping down the curbside of my trailer and none down the street side, or from either condensate lines under the trailer. The condensate lines cross so that meant I was not getting any drainage from the curb side condensate tray. There is a second outlet on each side of the condensate tray that is supposed to allow water to drain down the side of the trailer if the condensate line is occluded. To make a long story short, the condensate line that drains to the street side was occluded somewhere in between the inner and outer hull, and I could not access this area. I remedied the problem by getting a y fitting and splicing the tubing coming from the street side into the tubing coming from the curbside. I never had any drainage inside the trailer. I should also mention that when my trailer is absolutely level, the ac lists to the curbside. Giving my experience, I would first remove the inner shroud and see if you can identify where the leak is originating. If you confirm it is condensate, I would then get one of these, https://a.co/d/0hkNDgD0, and pass the brush from the condensate drain tube as far as possible and see if it is visible from inside the trailer, since the inside shroud is removed. I would then do the same on the other side. If you determine one side is occluded, I used this fitting to splice the occluded side to the non occluded side, https://a.co/d/0d6K2v06. Maybe you will find a kink or other occlusion that can be fixed with out splicing. I had the outer cover off several times during this process, but found that the access and visibility is poor and I would not start there. I hope this helps, please feel free to reach out if I can help further.

I'm thinking you mean the GCFI 20A outlet you are plugged into had tripped. Your EMS readout displayed 12A which is the total input amperage from shore power, which would include the Xantrex charger if it was in fact charging at the time. Sounds like a temperamental GFCI to me and it's not the first time I've read this story on our Forum! Glad our home was built in 1980 when only bathrooms had GFCI outIets. If it was my garage or exterior outlet that I used for shore power, I would replace it with a standard 20A outlet, regardless of code. Or add a new 30A breaker to your service panel, run wire and a 30A dedicated outlet for shore power. This is what I did where we park our Oliver. Not running on the 2KW Xantrex? Check and lower your shut-off voltage setting which is often the case with Xantrex inverters (not Victron). Your oven pulling only 11A (12A - 1A) should run on any 15A household circuit, let alone 20A. And 11A on 120VAC is equivalent to 110A on 12VDC which translates to 1320W, which again should run on a 2000W inverter with a lot or room to spare! Could the oven be defective? Not likely, since it started up and pulled a measurement read by the EMS. You could think it's the oven since it blew on two power sources. But the microwave works. The oven must create a power spike the GCFI protection doesn't like. The only way to be sure is to connect to a shore power source that is not GFCI! The 30A shore power outlet at any campground are not GFCI outlets. Next time I need a GCFI outlet is the next time I take a shower with a live blow dryer in hand! 🤣

Is it the circuit breaker in the breaker box under the dinette tripping or the GFCI in the outlet under the dinette tripping? They are different devices.

Keep your tongue raised slightly. We have the Dometic AC and had this happen. The trailer was dead level. I raised the tongue and the issue went away immediately. I also checked the two condensate after our trip and they were open.

@strhomsen, Good catch, your right, although the year of my trailer is in my signature area, it is not emphasized greatly. Yes changes have been made to the trailer manufacturing over the years and this fix specifically pertains to very early models. However, when initially discussing this problem with the factory, they said the valves in the new LE1s also had limited clearance to access that bolt. If that is the case in anyone's trailer, this mod, or something akin to it may help in the future.

Here’s an example, Potawatomi State Park WI Individual sites offer a mix of non-electric and electric pedestals (40 sites with electricity), but lack individual water or sewer hookups. There are communal water spigots in the park. And another park Devils Lake has Water on pedestals but not each campsite. We carry an extra 7 gallon blue water carrier and refill our tank Using the rear siphon port. Search result: No, there are no Wisconsin State Park campgrounds that offer water hookups at every individual campsite. [1] The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources (DNR) deliberately designs its state park campgrounds to offer a more rustic experience. While many parks provide electrical hookups at select sites, none of them feature individual water or sewer connections at every campsite. [1, 2, 3, 4]

I have to admit. I swallowed pretty hard when I wrote the check for my new Oliver back in 2018. However, it's been relatively trouble free in the eight years I've owned it. Can't say that for most brands. I think the low production run also adds to the desirability. If Hohenwald was stamping trailers out as fast as Casita, it would lower the exclusivity of owning an Oliver. I was happy when Oliver went back to factory only sales.

I am looking for a city water connection at the campsite. Are you saying WI does not offer city water connections at the campsite?

Since I had never used the Convection Oven side of the Microwave, I thought I would give it a try before we head out on the next adventure. I Place the metal rack in the oven, and put a bowl of water in the oven. I know it is not food, but at least I thought it would work for a test. I started the Convection Oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes. I had also set the Xantrex Charger to 5amps charging, since I was using a dedicated 20AMP circuit in the RV port. Before starting the test the readout in the rear upper cabinet showed 1 Amp at 122 Volts. After starting the test I was drawing 12Amps At 119Volts. After 1 minute, the GFCI Breaker tripped. I tried resetting the breaker a couple of times and it continued to trip. I thought maybe something shorted out. After About 5 minutes I was able to reset the breaker. I tried the same test only at 300 degrees, and the same thing happened. I decided to try the Xantrex Freedom 2000 inverter and give my new Epoch batteries a small workout. Again after one minute the 120V 20Amp GFCI in the Xantrex tripped. Waited 10 minutes and was able to reset it. At this point I wanted to make sure the Microwave part of the oven still worked. I removeI the metal rack and placed the bowl of water on the glass tray and ran the microwave for 3 minutes and was able to heat up the water. I know I wasn't pulling over 13Amps total in the trailer, so it couldn't have been from a high load. Since it took some time for the breakers to be reset, I think there is dome type of switch automatically reseting in the Convection side of the oven. The previous owners back in 2020 stated that they never used the microwave side, but had used the Convection side on the few trips they had taken. It is not a show stopper, but it would have nice to cook one of my recipes in the the convection oven for the egg rally. Any Ideas?

Water? Define. Recommendations of great WI public parks is easy and many exist...but if you want to city water connection AND a great WI public park that's unlikely. WI Oliver Owner here.

Since the existing bypass valve has had issues for at least a few owners already, I’d be very leery about replacing it with another of the same valve. Amazon has at least three 1/2” three-way ball valves - all with more substantial handles and likely better guts. Not sure if THIS is the right configuration - but if not - there’s two others: https://a.co/d/0gG3fFr3

Thanks to all responses. 😀

Gotta love it