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Congrats from Hull #1045, Jolli Olli. Happy Camping.

We actually tested this in Florida this past April. Outside temps were low 90s with 80%+ RH. With the Chill Cube in Dry Mode, the highest we saw inside was high 70s and 55ish% RH. So it didn’t quite get below 50% humidity, but it made a huge difference. At 77°F/55% RH it was comfortable enough to hang out in. In those conditions I’d say 55-60% RH is probably the realistic best-case without adding a separate dehumidifier. Bear in mind our Brinkley 5th wheel is not as “efficient” as an Oliver. We love the Chill Cube, the variable speed compressor is very efficient, we have seen similar numbers than @jd1923

Geoff, How did you mount, suspend the temperature switch above the fins so it could be moved easily. Did you mount on the tube above the condenser fins, or did you hang it off of the fan bracket? Thanks

My Tacoma was a 2012 and I had installed the TRD Supercharger, so plenty of power. The limitation was weight and range. Be careful not to overload - tongue weight, your body weight and cargo add up fast. I was stopping every 200 miles or less to fill the gas tank. Also, be aware that the overall weight of the Tacoma makes it easier for the trailer to push around in certain circumstances. I was always cautious on downhills and downhill curves. We’ve always liked the Tacoma’s we’ve owned, they just aren’t optimal for towing a 6,000 pound paperweight! After upgrading to a couple of half tons we’ve now been towing with a 2500 diesel for the past 5 years and the difference is night and day. A Tacoma will do the job, just be wary of its limitations! Mike

It will be of interest to eventually learn how the Chill Cube handles cabin humidity in very hot climates with high RH. A cabin temp of 76° can be comfortable only if interior humidity is kept below 50%. Perhaps some other ‘Chill Cuber’ can share their experiences regarding this matter. @jd1923, your test results are very impressive!

The Obeaming model I installed doesn’t have a physical button, but rather a center touch feature for on/off, as well as dimming and color selection. Wiring in my instance was simple; black to black, white to white. The wires were crimped and taped in my installation. I was pleased to find the overhead cabinets had routed channels to better conceal the wiring. Although the rivet holes matched these new lights, I choose to use screws rather than rivets; a piece of wood skewer was snapped off in each hole as filler for screw securement. I also decided to replace all of the former touch lights to forego any further issues. I’ve throughly enjoyed these lights for the past year and very pleased with the added ambiance of the blue color. They also operate as Tom @Tom and Doreen describes with “memory” when using the master power switch.

I don’t think of it as a ‘gap’, but rather just a recess where the vinyl flooring meets the curved fiberglass walls. Regardless, grit and grime collects along these edges and must be periodically cleaned!

I remember reading in the "Morton's on the move" blog that BTU output was about half it's actual rating but didn't think that would be a problem since my old 9.2k Coleman worked just fine at cooling in our Ollie, and it worked better than others I've used at controlling humidity due to longer run times. I bet you'll get better performance when traveling at lower altitudes. Bottom line, none of these units are perfect, but if you need A/C off-grid inverter compressor units are really your only choice and the Chill Cube seems to be a great one. Only question is durability, which is the same question I have for my Turbro.

That was just a model number listing error. Here is some advice from a Shurflo tech for setting charging pressure, from a thread titled: "Are two accumulators better than one?"

Thanks for the welcome all. We're really excited 🙂 Mike & Carol --- any tips vis a vis the Tacoma?

Yeah, I tried this today and you are correct. I hosed our blinds this week with a fine mist spray setting. I did this 2 years ago and it was about time again. When I reinstalled I found a couple of clips where the mounting screw needed tightening, so check for this first. Then of all the 24 clips, 6 per window, only one would not seat properly (guess we're lucky). I removed it, tried to stretch it wider on my vise and no-go on the spring steel. So this is my solution and it worked great, tight as can be! just one wrap of electrical tape. 😎

Why is there a gap? We don't have one. It get's me when OTT has the right approach and then it changes through the years.

Was reinstalling our blinds today after cleaning them, so working inside the Oliver. Set temp was 76F and I lowered it to 68F and turned on the Turbo setting which activates the evaporator fan at the high setting. Outdoor temp was 94F, 110F on the roof, 104F in the basement under the streetside bed where the Victron MP2 is installed (see temp reading on picture). After I heard the compressor ramped up, I took this screen print. About 620W was the highest number I could see. The picture shows wattage inverter out and the A/C was the only 120VAC appliance on. The Chill Cube is rated at 18K BTU which we know is BS since the compressor rating is about half that. The Chill Cube night not be the best choice for those who plug in regularly and live where you need powerful cooling. The Tosot may a better choice for those who plugin at campgrounds, but we rarely plug in even when parked at home. The Chill cube in Turbo mode is not real quiet, but still less than half the noise of others. It's whisper quiet when sleeping at night when cooling needs are lower.

Congratulations and welcome to the family. It's exciting!

Thanks -- I did that. Glad to have this in the thread as a warning to others.

... and that brought a huge smile to my face. I can't wait to get back to fishing! I hope you had a good day, with lots of fish and no grizzly action.

Sometimes Mother Nature has a very kind way of saying "Good morning".

That is correct. However, solar is more efficient at elevation and we had full mid-summer sun every day of the test. I'd like to measure the amount of Ah produced by solar over a 24-hour period. I believe the IPN Remote on our old Blue Sky SC has a display variable for that can be reset to zero. But without an app interface it's truly painful to kneel down there and go through the menus!

Very nice, especially at your elevation. Probably losing 15% or so efficiency up there in the clouds!

Performance update => I was able to run the Chill Cube 24x7, thermostat set at 74F, for 4 days producing this data. Data was recorded each day later afternoon 5PM +/-. The Chill cube did not quite produce the set temp in the heat of the day but did so the rest of the day. The high of 76F was still quite comfortable in the cabin. Off course our Oliver was unplugged, but in addition to battery power, our 320W rooftop solar was adding power consumed by the A/C. The table shows Ah used daily. Keep in mind this is with the A/C running 24x7 which is rarely our use case! Having 900 Ah it appears I can count on running the A/C 24x7 for 3 days, 4-5 days if it’s off during portions of the days. With 600 Ah you could truly count on two full 24 hour days. The picture below shows cabin and outdoor temps one afternoon during the test at 4:30 PM. The cabin temp is read by a Ruuvi sensor mounted above the kitchen sink. The sensor titled Oliver Trunk is positioned in the rear basement, near the incoming water lines down by the 4" drain plumbing. For "Oliver Roof" I placed a sensor rooftop under the solar panels so that it is in the shade. If I took this picture 1-2 hours earlier in the day the roof temp would certainly be above 110F! I had no idea these results would be so positive and being the avid boondocker, it's great to know we can now count on A/C cooling anytime/anywhere! When you have the old-school A/C, with the basic single-speed ON/OFF compressor (Dometic, Truma, Tosot, Houghton, etc.), you will use approx. 100 Ah per hour in the heat of the day (assuming 1400W while the compressor is ON). The inverter or variable-speed A/C will consume in 24 hours what the standard A/C will consume in just 2 hours, OMG! (BTW, the Dometic P2 will produce worse results since it uses 1800W when ON, or 150 Ah/hour). The technology capability today is amazing. Time to stop waiting on the next great product. We’re not getting any younger! 😎

They're all about the same. Plumbing connections should be the same. Make sure you set pressure on your new accumulator based on its instructions related to the pressure spec of your water pump. There is a Shrader valve on the accumulator where you can check pressure or connected a pump or compressed air.

Thank you Got it filled in now.

There are several posts discussing how the signature works... try this one: You could also search for something like "signature" in the search field in the banner at the top of a forum page.

I cannot figure out how to add my info to my forum posts. How do I do this?

On my 2020 Hull 642 it already had Shurflo 182-100 that cracked over last winter. Evidently, my winterization wasn't very effective. I couldn't find this model on Amazon but I did get a Shurflo 182-201. Now I am not sure this is the right model but the actual pump is a XXX-100. What is the difference between the Shurflo 182-201and the Shurflo 182-200? They look like they are interchangeable but maybe not.