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bradbev

Adding Water Accumulator to pre 2018 Elite II

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This week I added the much needed (by me) water accumulator tank to the outlet of of the water pump.  The following may be helpful to you if you want to add to your trailer.  FYI, the factory has added this to all the 2018 trailers as I understand.

 

I decided to not only add the accumulator tank, but also utilize the silence kit which adds 2 ea. 30" hoses.  The reason was to make the mounting more flexible.  With the hoses, I would not be limited where I mounted the tank.  (You may be able to find suitable hoses locally, but having everything arrive at my doorstep has it's benefits.)

 

Parts I used:

 

1. ea SHURflo 182-200 Accumulator tank.  $42.11 on Amazon today

 

1. ea SHURflo 94-591-01 Silencing kit.   $25.94 on Amazon

 

1.  Remove the 4 mounting screws in the pump base.

 

2.  Turn off water pump, open the sink valve to relieve the water pressure,  and remove the short white hose between the output port of the pump and the valves to the right of the pump.  Have towels available because the faucet is higher than the pump so some water will drain out when you break the connections.

 

3.  Before I remounted the pump, I tested several locations for the tank.  I chose to move the pump as far to the left, allowing the tank to be mounted to the right.  I dressed the hoses around trying to minimize any sharp turns and minimize the hoses hitting other objects.

 

4. After you have all the connections secure, test the setup, and if you're satisfied, mount the pump and tank.

 

This modification made my trailer much more pleasant to be in.  At times the pump vibrations would make the plumbing lines vibrate against the back of the cabinets and sounded like a jack hammer.

 

The tank is pre-charged to about 30 psi.  As you can see from my picture, I placed the tank so I could access the air connection should I need to adjust the pressure.

pump-location.thumb.jpg.250d34a0d99497a9e9413c76b7148d1a.jpg

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I installed one in my Ollie too.  There's more to the benefit than the sound though.  Without it, the pressure builds up when you fire up the water heater from cold and the pressure will go to 100 PSI ad pop the pressure relief valve.  This puts unnecessary strain on the entire plumbing system.

 

It's good to keep the hose from the pump to the tank as short as is practical to keep the pump from stuttering as it tries to shut off.  Best when the pump runs smoothly for a longer period and then stays off for a longer period, several seconds or so.   I experimented with different pressures and settled at about 20 PSI.

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John


"I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt."


LE2 #92 (sold),   Black Series HQ19   

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After reading your post. (Thanks) I read somewhere else on the forum that the accumulator tank should be installed vertically but can’t find that now.  Any thoughts?

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I read somewhere else on the forum that the accumulator tank should be installed vertically but can’t find that now.

 

I had posted that the accumulator tank should be installed vertically. That was based upon a how-to web site and a

 

The ShuFlow documentation is more circumspect. It says: The accumulator can be mounted in any position. However, for complete sanitizing/winterizing, the recommended mounting position is with pre-charge valve stem up.

 

Can someone report how the Oliver factory is installing them?

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David Stillman, Salt Lake City, Utah

2016 Oliver Elite II  Hull 164    |    2017 Audi Q7 tow vehicle. 

Travel and Photography Blog: http://davidstravels.net

 

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My initial plan was to go vertical,  but it proved to be more practical to mount horizontal . The main thing is no warer is trapped inside the tank when winterizing.

 

I use a compressor to do the initial purge, then the pink stuff for the final step.  So, I'm comfortable that no water remains in the system.  As far as performance,  the positioning is not a factor.

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The orientation of the accumulator is irrelevant.  Vertical or horizontal is fine.  It's more important to find a mounting that gets it as close to the pump as is practical and mounts it securely enough that it doesn't flop around.  If the pump stutters when trying to shut off, the problem can be too long of a hose to it or too small of a hose diameter.  The pressure should be a bit lower than the operating pressure of the pump switch.  Enough lower that it accumulates enough water to reduce cycling and reduces high pressure buildup from expanding water as the water heater warms up.  I set mine at 20 PSI and the pump wants to shut off at about 40 PSI.  If the system is at 40 PSI and I turn on the water heater from cold, the pressure climbes to about 60 PSI.  This is much better than going up over 100 PSI and popping the relief valve.  It seems to me these accumulators are a bit small for the best operation, but they are much better than nothing.  I'm considering changing mine to a domestic style, number 5 model designed for residential water heaters, but they do take up more room.

 

As long as there is pressure in the bladder, the tank will empty completely when the system is drained.  There will always be pressure as long as the bladder doesn't leak, and if it does leak, you'll know it by the sound of the pump as it goes back to cycling too much like before the accumulator was installed.

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John


"I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt."


LE2 #92 (sold),   Black Series HQ19   

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Is this water accumulator needed or useful for the instant hot water heater? Thanks


June

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June - unless you got your "new" Ollie used, you already have this accumulator (as far as I know, all the 2018's have one).

 

Its easy enough to check - life the curbside mattress and look in the hatch that is nearest the kitchen.  Here you should see your water pump and the accumulator should be mounted fairly close to it.  If you don't know what a water pump looks like, simply do a search on this Forum and there are a number of pictures of both the water pump and the accumulator for you to see.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Hi June.  Your 2017, hull 258 was manufactured shortly after mine, so probably doesn't have the accumulator.  If you going to be at the Oliver rally in May, you can compare rigs with and without the accumulator.  Sounds like you have the tankless water heater.  We also have it and think it works well.  The accumulator really has no direct effect on the water heater, it just gives a more steady supply of water (either hot or cold) with minimal pump pulsing off and on.  I consider it not a necessity, but just a nice addition to my rig.

 

Brad  #241

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I plan to make this mod as well.  Are the hoses necessary?  Can the tank be installed vertically with a double female fitting to the pump output and then a 90 degree elbow to the valve connection?

 

If there is not enough height clearance for vertical mounting, the same connections can be made but the adjuster will be outboard.

 

Thanks

 

Greg

 

 


Greg


USN Retired


ARS AB7R


 

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Greg,

 

The accumulator can be mounted in any position.  Put it as close to the pump as is practical.  No hoses are required, but are fine.  These can be faucet pigtails that are available in various lengths from Home Depot or Lowes.

 

Adjust the accumulator pressure to where it is a little lower than the cut-in pressure of the water pump.  This is a bit tricky.  You need to put a gauge on your water system and determine the on and off pressure of your pump.  Then set the accumulator pressure a little below the "on" pressure.

 

This mod is more important than many realize, even with the Truma instant water heater.  But especially with the 6 gallon tank water heater.

 

It becomes even more important when adding a shore water pressure regulator.


John


"I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt."


LE2 #92 (sold),   Black Series HQ19   

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