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When concerned, replace your DC circuit breakers with ANL or MRBF fuses. You simply know when a fuse burns and there is always a reason behind it. Fuses protect overloads in both directions on the circuit. Simple DC breakers are directional, will protect power to ground faults on one side of the breaker. An issue on the other side of a DC breaker is not covered. I've kept two DC breakers that OTT installed (30A rooftop solar and 40A for jacks, etc.) When I rework something or add a new accessory, I prefer to add a fuse holder over a breaker (only in 12VDC systems). Just keep those breakers/fuses and switches out from under your spouse's bed! 🤣

Yeah but... Given the pics above, we see 11.2V, then 11.1V, then 11.2V which average with great precision in the range of a dead lead acid battery. The OP posted both 11.7V and 12.7V numbers without supporting pics, no mention of the voltage numbers displayed in the pictures. Lead Acid batteries will go to zero, more load-more quickly. In my understanding of statistics (I used to teach stats), given 3 independent readouts from 3 independent vendors; read from Zamp, Xantrex, and SeeLevel devices, displaying the exact same number? (within only a 0.1V deviation on 1 of 3 devices). Not likely at all. The batteries are reading near dead. Check the multimeter again as wired and check it again with battery cables all detached. It cannot correctly read 12.7V when 3 simple BMS systems are agreeing to 11.2V. The likelihood is the11.2V is correct and the 12.7V reading is wrong. Measure again. Then connect to shore power and charge your batteries for 24-48 hours asap. And perhaps it's a blessing, time to scrap the AGMs! In another OTT Forum thread there is a link to well-featured 300 Ah LiFePO4 sale priced at $600. It's a good time to buy lithium. One of these should provide 50% more SOC% than what you have today. Most who install the LiFePO4 upgrade today go with 600 Ah which will deliver 3x the power of the large 4 battery AGM installation.

I wish my main electrical setup looked this clean. My 2020, is all over the place.

Wow, twice in 2 years that is not very comforting. I wonder how bad is their failure rate?

Thanks..... Great info....... I did read a post about the dc to dc charging, just haven't needed it yet. But it is definitely in the future project file...... The current system, which is the 400 watt system, works well. The batteries charge to 100% on sunny days, when I am away from the trailer. So no complaints. Although I do have a few 100 watt panels I can use if need be...,.... We were at a bluegrass festival. 5 days. The batteries cycled between 75% to 100%. I did run a generator while using the oven, but the panels did most of the work the rest of the time. I was being very conservative with my usage. Did not mind, worked great.,..... Again thanks for your help .....

We have an older hull and have 320W total in two OEM rooftop panels with an old SC not Bluetooth connected. You may have 400W rooftop. Regardless, these numbers are rated capacity, perfect world numbers. We have our Renogy 400W suitcase solar running right now. I took this screenshot for you! We’re near Mancos CO at 7760 ft, with pure blue skies. Suitcase panels setup, picture taken at 4:44 PM with a good angle to the sun, input wattage is now 231W. The highest number I’ve ever seen is 367W midday for merely a few seconds then down closer to 330W midday. Light clouds will cut these numbers in half. Heavy humidity less 20%! On average our 320W rooftop solar nets only half what the 400W suitcase pushes since the rooftop is flat/stationery. Of course the NE and SW are polar opposites, given altitude and humidity, so getting 200 of 400 watts with rooftop stationery panels seems the right number, likely your high number. If you travel more than you sit for weeks at campsites, the Victron Orion 50A DC-DC charger will charge 2x more per hour than 400W solar in the best of conditions. Numbers I count on are 40 Ah/hour towing with the Orion DC-DC Charger, 20 Ah/hour on the 400W suitcase for about 8 hours per day, a little more if your anal about moving the panels, and about 12Ah for the rooftop solar. +100 Ah all day is the best we get from rooftop solar. With 400W you could add 25% but given your NE climate +100 Ah may be your best. Sorry to be the engineer! 🤣

Thanks so much, Bill! Look forward to seeing what the new model will be like.

What are some of the victron readings on the legacy elite 2 solar panels. The highest wattage I have seen is around 200. Is that the usual. I am located in the northeast. So the sun can be a bit scarce at time. Approx 200 is in the direct sunlight that we get....... 2025 Legacy Elite 2 Platinum Package.

Thanks Snack chaser! I intend to clean the battery posts. I’ll check those out. Charlie

Thanks John, Here’s what my fuse looks like. Are they easy to remove and install? Charlie

Vish - Yes, an Oliver model similar to the Elite I is in the works and most likely will be presented at the October Oliver Owner's Rally during the third week of October. Bill

Hi all, my Wife and I were hoping to get the Oliver Elite I as that's what our SUV can tow. I know the production has been on pause but does anyone have any insight on if a similar towing capacity model is in the works? And timeline? We will also be first time RV/trailer owners, so we appreciate any advice and guidance. We've read a lot about Oliver's built and durability but also considering a class B.

Charlie, Based on your measured values, I’d first look at the battery cable to battery post connection(s): 1. If the 12.7 volt measurement was taken directly from the battery posts, then the battery is not dead. 2. The solar directly feeds the battery via the Zamp controller. It does not pass through the inverter or the main battery breaker. So the 11.7 voltage read from the Zamp controller is more likely a voltage drop through the battery post connection(s), not the main breaker. 3. The inverter also shows 11.7 volts, with no load, so it could also be reading a voltage drop through the battery post connection(s). That’s a reasonable analysis, and battery post corrosion is a common problem with AGM batteries. Sometimes the lead battery posts become oxidized. Although they appear fine, oxidization is a poor conductor. Having said all that, you possibly have a different setup or a poor main ground connection. Some simple voltage tests at various connection points would quickly isolate the problem if cleaning the battery posts does not fix the issue. Hope that helps. Cheers, Geoff

First thing I see is your batteries are below 12.2. All it takes is one time to damage AGM's. They are unforgiving. Street side, at the front next to the actual inverter should be the inverter breaker. If it is tripped you can't charge the batteries. It is also possible that it is bad, and/or the cables are loose. Must be off shore power, solar off, inverter breaker tripped and then batteries off before touching the breaker. I have a 2022 and have had to replace the breaker twice.

I'm not sure how the 2021 trailers are configured for power, mine is a 2023, but if you have an Optifuse circuit breaker on the input side feeding the Xantrex the Optifuse may be dropping some of the voltage. Mine was problematic, the symptom was a low indicated voltage at the Xantrex and when I would run high current devices such as the microwave the Xantrex would shut down. The solution for me was to replace the Optifuse with a marine switch. I would give Oliver a call and they can help to zero in on the issue.

The readings are as follows: IMG_1306.mov

The voltage directly from the batteries with my multi tester is reading 12.7 V. My Inverter is on. My 3 way refrigerator is not turned on and is therefore not drawing any power. My maxi fan is running on a slow setting. The solar Xantrex controller is showing that I have the 11.7V right now, and is indicating that solar is sending current into the unit. They are new batteries. You see, I’m preparing for our next camping trip this coming Thursday. Does any of this make sense? Charlie

What is the voltage measured directly on the battery terminals with a DVM?

I have AGM batteries that test with my multi tester as having full power. However, the Xantrex indicates “dead batteries”, even though the voltage reading on it says 11.7V. It seems to indicate that the Xantrex is not reading the batteries correctly.

I'll add our two cents. We've had our new-to-us Ollie for 18 months or so and are still finding stuff we think we need. We moved from a truck camper to the Ollie and thought we had most of what we needed, but.... As @FirstApex mentioned, I suggest a LevelMate Pro (so you can power from the Ollie): https://www.amazon.com/LogicBlue-Technology-LevelMatePRO-Wireless-Leveling/dp/B01FGGSWPW/ TPMS system to monitor the tires (you'll need metal valve stems): https://www.amazon.com/TST-507-FT-4-C-Repeater-Temperature-Monitoring-System/dp/B08W3QZ499/ Induction countertop cooktop and induction compatible cookware for inside and outside and many people have grills (Blackstone, Weber, etc.). We have a Paclock hitch lock (similar to the Proven) and a Collar lock to secure the latch (if you have the Bulldog coupler). https://www.amazon.com/PACLOCKs-UCS-77S-BUL-2516-Trailer-Coupler-Integrated-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0DLLQPB15/ or https://www.amazon.com/Proven-Industries-2516-Heavy-Duty-Couplers/dp/B0G319Y11G/ https://www.amazon.com/Collar-Trailer-Bulldog-style-Couplers-Including/dp/B00HL2NM0K/ You'll want an Electrical Management System (EMS) for the campground power post (in addition to the onboard EMS), a 30 AMP circuit tester and a non-contact voltage detector and outlet tester. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N0W4CZ8/ https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-Receptacle-Tester-Black/dp/B088CWBBBM/ https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-80025-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B0912Z1W88/ Don't know what hitch size the Apex comes with but I'd ask for the 2 5/16" coupler. There's lots of info on the forums. I suggest using @Wayfinder's search tool found on this post:

GJ, You are correct on all counts! Good logical thinking, and good luck with the yellow wire mess! Geoff

Douglas, Just reading your post about the Rally and site F22. We are taking delivery of our Apex, 2Dreamin, on September 14th and will be at the rally in site F-20. See you there!!! While waiting for delivery, we have gathered up items we kept from our Airstream Interstate Class B and replacing items we got rid of, uggggg. For the F350 SuperDuty a GenY Torsion Hitich with Locks, 100% extended no-drill Bedslide from Ford for easier access to the truck bed, Leer Cap, Rhino Rachet Straps, Rockstar flaps, Bulletpoint mounts and a Proven Coupler Lock for the Apex. BAL chocks between the wheels, Andersen Stabilizer Blocks, chocks behind the wheels, blocks for leveling (didn't get the curved Andersen levelers as we weren't sure of the distance of the mud tires since they are larger tires, can always add them later). LevelMate, 8 x 20 CGear outside mat, 2 x 10 runner for inside, Hasko paper towel holder, various Toolertries, thank goodness we had stuff left from our van...........but I still gotta get a broom, if I can remember, LOL!!! Hull #1738, still in the making with only 1 week left!!!!!

I added the SS fender washers like @DavePhelpsdid. I later changed them out to black SS fender washers from McMaster Carr. Bill Hull 313

Unhelpful Update: we just arrived home, and everything works again. 🙄 We’re starting a barn build tomorrow (unfortunately not for Curiosity due to allowable square footage), but when I get a chance, I’ll track down what has to be a loose connection. Thanks for the help, and an update will follow as more information becomes available.

IMHO, when in storage pumping tire pressure up to the max limit will help to eliminate flat spots but your PSI numbers are correct for towing. On classic cars I had, I’d put them up on jack stands. For the Oliver, just use your leveler jacks to take most the weight off the tires. If you visit your storage monthly, get your tires off the ground with the leveler jacks and give the tires 1/4 turn.