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Custom Comfort Mattress info can be found HERE Bill

Can't they make a mattress these days that isn't so thick? Regardless - I really do like the look of these. Can you give us any details (i.e. contact info, how do they ship or do you have to pick them up, price, choices of thickness and/or firmness, etc.). Bill

I bought one from someone off of a FB group. I bought it because it was a great deal. It came with a piece of high density foam that perfectly fills the gap. I have yet to do this, but I plan on splitting the foam into 2 pieces and upholstering them into 2 separate cushions that will match the dinette cushions. we haven’t used it yet, but I can tell you that it squeaks like crazy, and it blocks the drawer from pulling out of the night stand by being about 0.25” too tall. These are both easy fixes, but kind of a hassle. In my opinion it’s not the most elegant solution. It’s kind of bulky and heavy.

Those look very nice!

We got tired (pun intended) of sleeping on the stock cushions. We had some custom mattresses made. They are 9.5” thick, and very easy to move around when accessing plumbing/electrical. They are high density foam, so much lighter than latex. These are firm, and amazing. Custom Comfort Mattress in Southern California

Just ordered mine at O'Reilly's. Supposed to be in next week. June 1st for spring and shock replacement

Can you imagine the carnage that would result on a mountain road, on a hair pin curve, going down hill.... if that center bolt fell out? EZ Flex floppin around down by the tires, causing the axles to imediately be out of alignment flipping one way then the othe being only held back by two shackle bolts fore and aft on one side...... for me the one word answer is "carnage". BTW you are not alone on this topic. PM me if you want the back story. GJ

I have a 2020 model with the Norcold. I have attached some service manuals I found that might be of help. I found them back when I changed out a power board. Hope they help. I never tried doing what you are doing. Norcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdf Norcold Service Manual.pdf Norcold power board changeout.pdf

Wish John Davies was still producing engineering level threads on here. 😉 Anyway, pulled trailer from storage after 10 months and getting no DC or AC power to the panel. AC plug is live. Fuses and breakers are good. Found a reference on the Oliver FB page which led me to a ChatGPT finding. Anyone pulled the panel in a circa 2020 trailer with a Norcold? For your Oliver, the most realistic no-fridge-removal approach is: Method 1: Front trim/clip release Kill all power: unplug shore power turn off trailer battery/disconnect shut off propane Open the fridge door. Inspect the eyebrow trim above the door very closely: look underneath for small slots near the left and right ends use a thin plastic trim tool or very small flat blade wrapped in tape Gently release one side, then the other. Do not pry hard in the center first. These old plastic eyebrow pieces can crack. Once the trim/cover is off: remove any screws retaining the control module pull the panel forward just enough to expose the harness unplug and swap the panel This is the most likely path if your model uses snap tabs. Method 2: Hidden-screw version Some Norcold eyebrow assemblies have: screws under a decorative strip screws behind edge trim/seal areas In those cases remove the decorative trim strip first expose screws pull panel forward disconnect harness and replace board/panel

I misspoke about the switch. It is mostly recessed, very little actually protrudes above the faceplate. It can be bumped off, just not as easily.

Absolutely, but warranty work is another matter. (And, to be fair, Oliver has an excellent warranty.)

The owners manual says that it actually turns off the surge protector function. I have a small piece of black foam in the switch recess to prevent accidentally turning the surge protector off.

If you want things done right, … (you know the rest)!

Does it actually turn the EMS off, or just the display?

Thanks @mountainoliver, that was the problem. My display is in the basement/trunk and I couldn't see the switch until I put a flashlight on it. My switch also is not recessed, it sticks out, so something must have bumped it on the road. Thanks again, Tony

Roger: I note the amount of corrosion in your picture. I don't know where you live or operate, but for a 2021 trailer it could use some corrosion control efforts. Especially the axle tube. GJ

We just returned from our third trip to the factory service center for warranty work and the same problem presented itself again: poor communication. In this case, they were to repair a gelcoat crack near the water heater and do a visual brake inspection. They had the trailer for 2 days. When we arrived at the factory for pickup at 4:30 on the second day I asked the service writer one specific question, "Did you remove the water heater to fix the fiberglass?" I asked this because it had looked to me that the WH would have to come out to address the crack, but the service writer said no, they didn't take out the water heater. Surprised, I double checked, "I don't have to refill my water heater tank?" Again, he said, "No." When we moved to our site for the night, I discovered fresh caulk all around the water heater and an empty WH tank. This is important because, if we had turned our electric water heater on with the tank empty, we would have destroyed the electric heating element. We absolutely should have been told the tank was empty, and if the service writer wasn't sure, he should have checked with the tech. (The tech was smart, though, and did turn off the WH breaker.) Also, I saw the tech's notes on the counter while we were waiting for our paperwork and he noted that we needed new shocks and bushings. I asked the service writer about that, he looked at the notes, and said it "doesn't mean anything." But, when I looked under the trailer later, the bushings were, indeed, badly cracked. Oliver had the trailer for 2 days. I'm surprised they didn't call and ask if I wanted new shocks while it was in their shop waiting for the resin and gelcoat to set. This poor communication at the shop (communication by email/phone before the visit has always been fine) continues a pattern going back to our first warranty trip in 2023. In that case, we went to pick up our trailer after 2 days and found that one of the major items it was in for wasn't even addressed. Overall, we had become so frustrated with service issues that we mailed a letter to Scott Oliver prior to this visit expressing our frustrations and concerns, hoping things would go better this time. We never received a response. Bottom line for us: factory service is hit or miss. We've had some good work there (the fiberglass repair looks great), but there have been serious communications miscues, too. If you need to get service done at the factory, we recommend you keep careful records of all communications and check and verify all work done and everything you're told. Trust but verify.

That was my first thought, and a much simpler solution than changing the ducting. The only downside I could see is that it requires 24/7 shore power.

Mine has an on/off switch on the front of the remote display. It’s sort of recessed to prevent accidentally turning the surge protector off.

All, I'm plugged into shore power and I think everything's working. I've looked at the EMS manual and found the error codes but didn't see how/where to turn the EMS on. Can someone tell me how to turn the EMS on? Thanks, Tony

I installed a 500W "xtreme" bilge heater. It is on a thermostat to maintain a temp of ~ 50f. I have used it for the past few winters and have added a special circuit to plug it in. They are available from xTreme heaters and Amazon.

Get 4 new shocks and you may want to go Bulldog brand vs. Monroe. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/bulldog-hd-suspension/bulldog-hd-suspension-shock-absorber/bul0/hd12130656/ https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 From what I can tell in your picture, the upper bushings on the original shocks were badly over-tightened causing the rubber bushings to fail prematurely. Your picture shows too many threads up top leaving very little spacing for the rubber. You want to tighten these so that the rubber is just mushrooming and not much more.

Thanks everyone for your responses. I tried searching but didn't use the right key words. The other posts are very helpful..

THIS thread directly applies to the bushing question - particularly see the last post regarding the appropriate amount of "bluge" . Bill p.s. by typing in "Monroe Shocks" the Forum's search function will return more information of the subject of shocks in general.

HERE is just ones of those posts on the subject of alternative(s) to the Monroe shocks. Bill