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Our 2018 uses a different setup with four valves. GJ

More information on event and how to reserve if possible. Thanks.

When leaving the trailer, e.g. a day trip, there are several things we check. One is to be sure the water pump is OFF. Likewise if on City Water I will shut-off our hose connection at the hook-up. LP off at the tanks is also a good idea for safety. If you leave pets in the trailer these things are more important and of course they need cool fresh air! Almost as bad as water leaking into the hull would be leaving an electrical appliance on that could cause a fire. You could trip the breaker at the post. If un-plugged the batteries could run down. As we’re locking up to leave, I’m checking the shunt reading on the app to see that amps in or out is what’s expected. 😎

We typically pay for this event ourselves and try to find sponsors. If you want to see us, it may be possible, but the day passes typically don't allow access to the campgrounds. But there will be plenty of us around and many wear shirts with Oliver logo on them so you will be able to spot us.

Absolutely open to non-owners. This is one of the purposes of the regional rallies, to make viewing an Oliver and socializing with owners to learn all about the campers. Obviously you need to go to the on line information and make your reservations according to the posted information, and send a message to the organizers so they know to expect you.

Is it possible for non Oliver owners to visit the rally? We are very interested to see an Oliver but haven’t made the trip to the factory yet. Thank you.

I was asked why I would tow our OE2 at 95 MPH. Answer is I don't. Then why ask AI to require at least this speed rating? Good question. WHY? A tire's speed rating indicates how well a tire dissipates heat during prolonged high-speed driving. I and many of our forum members cover lots of mils at posted speed limits. Likewise a lot of us do so during the summer crossing hundred mile streaches of desert areas with temperatures over 100 degrees and high speeds as well. Hence I want tires that can "take the heat". This is true for both my TV and Ollie tires. RESULT? Zero roadside tire issues in over 40 years. HOW? I always buy tires with a Load and Speed Ratings that are well above what is recommended for the average driver. GJ

I'm posting for an anonymous 2017 Ollie owner. This is why we should NEVER leave our trailer with city water on to the trailer. I need to remember this too, or just use fresh water tank with pump off when leaving. He heard water flowing under the bunk when hooked up to city water and found that the 1/2 inch plastic swivel adapter going to the water heater, under the passenger side bunk, had broken off. Easy fix, but only if you had the Pex tools and parts with you. The trailer would have flooded with that much water pressure going into hull. Here are some pics. He also found out why, in his 2017 ollie, he had low hot water pressure (a kink). Time to put a straight and right-angle brass swivel adaptors in my plumbing bag. Spend a few more bucks to save the rig from being an indoor pool.

This is what we got in 2016. Matches the configuration for hull # 145. Hope this helps. Scotty PS good seeing you at the rally.

Hey folks, I recently saw that Jenni & Omar have a 2017 rig, and they have a nice plumbing diagram in their manual. I do not have that same type diagram in my 2016 manual (paper or digital), likely because my hull was the 2016. demo unit, so maybe too early. My plumbing fittings in the main area are also VERY different than their hand-tightened connectors (large white fat fittings - all lose by the way). Did anyone with a 2016 (pre-fat white fittings) get a plumbing diagram with their 2016 trailer? Does your wet bay look something like mine, with the same simple fittings? We can never assume they are the same, even for the same year trailers, but I was curious. Minus the accumulator tank, which I added later, this is what my water area looks like. Again, note the solid Pex fittings. So far, they've never YET broken or sprung a leak, but I did not just say that. If you have a plumbing diagram or two of the entire rig, can you scan or take a nice picture with your phone and send to me, or attach to this thread? I have already checked the Oliver digital library. Thanks,

PS: Roads tend to drain towards the right side. Hence this side typically is lower. If you are close to the posted height, you may want to move right and maybe get a bit more clearance. GJ

I bought a Gen 3 dish last year with plans to run the cord through a window. Then, when we were planning the 2-month trip (which we are now near the end of) for this year, I chose to permanently mount the Gen 3 dish on a mast secured to a bracket bolted to the awning. See photo. The cable runs through a hole in the hull just above the Oliver sign into the attic, where the router is plugged into the attic AC 120V receptacle. With clear sky view, there is no need to raise the mast. The blue cam strap visible in the photo secures the mast either in the "up" or "down" (travel) position to the awning. The photo shows the down position. This post is being transmitted using that Starlink service, in the down position, from a campsite in Utah, with clear sky view. When we ended up with campsites under trees, raising the mast and aligning the dish using the Starlink app usually enabled us to get service. After we get home next week, if anyone is interested, I can post more photos and a description of the installation process.

Although I avoid gravel roads when possible, I sometimes end up on gravel during our travels. And, my long driveway in rural Idaho is gravel. So, for me, the ribbed tires make sense. Thanks for sharing your research!

I have heard of that before. It's the link provided by the Google Map System. I'm not sure why that's happening to some folks. It may be a "traffic" issue to the map service. I would try to refresh/reload the link or just try the link again. I am unable to duplicate the issue on multiple browsers and on my phone(s). I'll keep an eye on it. It may be a Google issue, unlikely as that may seem. I've heard a refresh "fixes" the issue.

Chris when I use this link it doesn't work. The one in Facebook did. Don't know if it is my phone that has the issue though.

As you may know, I have created a Google My Map of Oliver rallies, this will eventually include all Oliver micro/mini rallies as they are created. I have added a link to the 2027 Fiberglass RV map, as well as the Army Corp of Engineers Campground map. As seen as icons in the Atlantic Ocean on the Oliver rally Map. Let's use this thread for future micro/mini rallies as we learn about them. https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1dsUQmPEsXOhV3KgTIkwI1QzIeWChkCw&usp=sharing If you see issues, let me know. Thanks,

I updated the Google Map info for reservation start date

I hate that, I enjoyed his posts.

I like the size, I like the design, I don’t like the price! 😅 But that’s OK, it’s a good contender. Thanks for finding that, I hunted around but struck out. Looked at flat tanks but this looks so much cooler lol .. yeah that’ll work

Woo-Hoo Congrats and a warm welcome back to the Family. Bill p.s. John Davies had to sell "Mouse" due to health issues

Just about everytime I winterize, the city water fitting will not take antifreeze I was trying to pump in. Despite following my instructions to open the shower valve. This time I opened the sink valve and I could pump in antifreeze. The system can airlock and opening a valve seems to make the problem disappear. Now if I can just remember to change my winterization check list....... GJ

Thanks John... Did not need to go to the water hose extreme. Seems the faucets do not like to flow until the pump completely stops running.... and the pump does not like to completely stop running until it's had a little rest. So, after a few rest stops for me and the pump...it all worked fine. I will remember the water hose trick for the future. And make sure I have a six pack on hand for the next winterization. Thanks! Scotty

Hey Gregg, I might have a fix for you! First idea, if you truly have antifreeze ALL the way up to the pump, perhaps all you need to do is crack the cold side valve at the sink faucet allowing air in the line after the pump to escape. This simple fix would be great, but perhaps more priming is required. During April, our son was camping in the Oliver when he ran the fresh water tank down very low, leaving only air in the pump lines. We came out for dinner and I expected I could refill the fresh tank from my 35-gal aux tank on the pickup bed. It would not pump even though our truck was a bit uphill and I had the hose primed to the inlet. First time ever this had occurred. When Chris and I camp, we refill asap after hearing the pump take a little air, that gurgling sound. Both the Winterization and Boondocking valve configurations, pull from the RR water inlet using the water pump to suction. In either configuration the water pump may need to be primed. I brought the trailer home next morning. Good thing he was camped only 12 miles away! Connect a pressurized garden hose to the rear inlet. Turn the hose ON, turn your water pump ON and open the cold valve on the kitchen sink faucet. The air will expel out of the faucet and once you have a steady flow of water the line is bled. Close the faucet valve, remove the hose and replace it with your antifreeze line to continue winterization. Give it a try. This should do it! 😂 I have a simple hand pump that I've used to sanitize the City and Fresh water lines. Going forward we'll travel with this pump as it could be used to prime the water pump when a live garden hose is not available. 😎

In winterization mode... yes I checked and re-checked... the pump operates but does not pull anti-freeze to the kitchen and bathroom sinks. I checked all fittings around the pump to make sure they were tight and antifreeze did make it to the pump... but it seems not beyond. Any ideas? Will cross post to the FB page as well. Thanks, Scotty