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Welcome from Hull # 1585. We live near Cookeville, Tn so if you need anything we are only about 1 1/2 hours away. Congratulations!

Good tips. Thanks. Yes, the humidity is the bane of our existence here in Nashville.

Yeah, I just looked up your Coleman model and it's the lowest profile I've seen at only 8.25". The Chill Cube is 6.25" taller (we park outdoors). I would take @CRM's lead on this. He has done more A/C research than any of us and looks like he may be in the market again with the "new Furrion low profile with heat pump."

I have an ongoing experiment... For 3 years now, we've had a drip rail on the curbside and not on the streetside, the perfect A-B experiment! Keeping the roof clean? Yes of course, but everyday the breeze coming over our ridge will deposit more red dust on the Oliver! Pictures to follow will start streetside front and end curbside rear. Only the last picture has no pin-striping where the drip rail has been installed. I'm going to install them on the length of the streetside to copy the curbside and a section in the rear below the OLIVER taillight.

Actually, according to Morton's testing, the Turbro is a fair amount more efficient than the Chill Cube in BTU's per watts... though I have no doubt that the Chill Cube is quieter and has better temperature control. I still wouldn't recommend the Turbro to anyone not willing to modify it as much as I did mine, though. One I would take a close look at is the new Furrion low profile with heat pump unit that *looks* to be the same outside unit as the Turbro but also *looks* to have fixed most if not all the issues I have with the Turbo, especially the ability to have a wired external thermostat. Going to try and check one of these out in the wild to see how they perform. I have a brother looking to upgrade his Dometic and might give him my Turbro if it works as advertised.

Last year and before, the free version was great. Click on a campsite, see reviews and they had a map link where it would launch Apple of Google maps for directions. It doesn't do that anymore, but states the $60/yr version does. Has anybody purchased their "RV PRO" version? Last year Campendium was our go-to app! For offline maps, get Avenza Maps! You can download any USGS (United States Geological Survey) maps for free and FS MVUM maps (Forest Service - Motor Vehicle Use Maps). I download them to my phone prior to travel online at home, or on Starlink when traveling. Even when there is no cell service you can still see the blue dot on the maps showing your location! 😎 We also purchased a sale-price subscription to onX Offroad which has public lands filters and shows where you can travel on dirt roads and disperse camp.

Thank you, I don’t think that I have the garage height for that unit. It appears taller than the existing unit

Wow, that's on BIG air handler/plenum! We love our Furrion Chill Cube. The air handler is built into the upper unit making it 3" taller on the outside but it's flush to the interior on the inside. It is also square shaped inside and out, so MUCH smaller the our old Penguin or your Coleman. I had to patch some screw holes on the interior because it was smaller. The Chill Cube does not require interior screws into the ceiling. Not sure if the Coleman used screws into the ceiling that if so may have to be patched. If you have a decent amount Ah in LiFePO4 batteries the Chill Cube can run A/C for hours, even days. I have linked my build thread below which shows the installation and interior pictures on page two. In the thread there is a mention of a model with heat pump if that is of interest to you. There are also mentions of a low-profile unit, but it is the tall non-ducted Chill Cube that is the efficiency beast! It's so quiet too. Half the sound on high and once it reaches set temp it will only whisper all night long! 😎 Watch the video on the Morton's web page: https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/furrion-chill-cube-variable-speed-18k-review/

Profile looks the same to me. Full width should measure just under 1". Yes yours, living in Nashville, sure got "Nasty" in just 2 years. Our Oliver started life in Florida and then moved SW. In my picture above the white rubber shown is 8 years old. Caution on installing the new rubber. The ones I removed were all about an inch too short. To compensate for shrinkage on the new ones, I cut them long cramming them into place. I over did it on one window. One piece after a couple of years, the top section had wrinkled and a bottom section had buckled in. I just noticed it last trip when monsoon rains caused a leak in that window alone. I recently ordered 5 ft more to redo that one window, thinking the AZ sun had hardened that piece in its current shape. Cut them long enough to fully fit pressing in firmly, but don't overdo it like I did. If it feels too long, you can always trim them a bit shorter, but of course you don't want to cut a piece too short. I used the hose cutter shown above. Didn't know about the back-order. My order is now two weeks old. They confirmed it by email, stating they would send a 2nd email when the order was processed and have not received that yet. I emailed them yesterday. No reply yet but hope to hear back from them next week.

Hello everyone, we’re looking for some advice on which A/C unit to replace our original Coleman Airxcel 47201A876 with. We started this adventure by going to what was our local Oliver dealer here in Denver. Based on their recommendation, we were going to go with the Premier Products Eco-Cool unit. That was until we discovered that the Eco-Cool’s shroud would cover one of the rear interior lights. Based on Oliver’s recommendation, we decided that wasn’t something we wanted to do. The dealer is willing to install any other unit we recommend—but, sorry, we don’t do this for a living! 😁 Hence this post. We’d really appreciate any recommendations from those who have replaced the original Coleman unit, particularly if you’ve found a replacement that fits without modifying the existing installation. Thanks in advance for any advice. Ron

Nasty.

Thanks for the link for that cleaner. If I don't swap the weather stripping out for black, I will definitely check out this product. Bob

I will for sure check the profile. And your thoughts about black are growing on me. I think I will give that a try to eliminate the need to replace it again 2 years down the road. Thanks! Bob

I do things old school. I create a word type document as I create the trip. With URL's of the places we are going to see/stay, fillup points, milage/hrs to drive, phone numbers costs and amount already paid, and any other needed data. I use several apps, Harvest Host ( I am a member), Campendium (free version), Open roads and gas buddy for diesel stops, and Google maps I add electronic entries into an my calendar with earliest arrival times, URL containing the google map location of the destination and a 24hr reminder so I can keep tomorrows Itinerary in my thoughts. That way I can click on the calendar entry and then hit the google URL and get to that destination from anywhere. All of this info in a document and calendar entry also serves as a digital historical record. I also make hardcopies of reservations and the document for my navigator. I was told the Campendium has a mapping software for members (at a cost), that does some special things such as allowing vehicle requirements, and lends itself to not just using the interstates. I have yet to try it. I like google maps for 80% of the travels with cellular data. There are other mapping software that is easy to load whole states or sections of the US. I used this once when I rented a car in Alaska while doing inland cruise with the ferry with no cell data for very long stretches. Most times when in the continental US when cell data is not available I use a trucker atlas to get to the nearest town along my path so I can get google maps to start. I tried using google maps offline, I just didn't like the way it stored the minimal data to cover the areas you are in. Offline map Apps are great for making last minute changes were cellular data is not available.

Jd, Yes ,every region is different. You have "invisible red dirt, we have "invisable sticky pollen" from the redwoods in the summer. My recommendation: when you rip off the old gutters, experiment and run without them for a while before installing new gutters. You have nothing to loose and may discover you don't need or want them. There will be no penalty if you decide you want to install gutters at a later date. There is a a lot written about people pulling the gutters that will never go back somewhere in the forum. I probably overstated "eliminated streaking". Running without gutters hasn't greatly reduced streaking. Keeping the roof clean is the key to eliminating streaking when running without gutters. best to you

Hey Taylor, contrary ideas are always good to read and understand! We all live and travel in much different climates, and yours and ours are quite the opposite. The high country of Arizona is the only place, in the 5 states we've lived, where temps changes more in a 24 hour day than from season to season. 68F at dawn today and 94F right now at 4PM. In January, it's often 18F early and 55F in the afternoon! We average 300 days of sun in Prescott and only 18" of rain all year, with a few days of snow Feb-Mar. You will of course get more rain in one month than we get all year. You also have tall trees, pine needles and sap droppings, etc. Only on rare occasion camping do we have tall trees above. We get a little red rock dust all over the Oliver almost every day of the year. You can barely see it, but it's certainly always there! When we used to go dirt riding often, when we hit puddles, better hose off the bikes when home. Otherwise the splashes of red dirt (sandstone iron-oxide) or white (limestone) will permanently stain if left on for too long. Summer afternoons, the roof of our Oliver is the hottest part. The other day, it was over 110F rooftop, 90F in the basement and I'm cooling the interior cabin to just under 80F. Every night the roof is the coolest part. We get dew/condensate on the roof nightly, frost when temps approach 32F and below. After sunrise, the condensate drips, carrying the red rock dust in lines all the way down the hull, in essence staining the fiberglass in its path. I can see you not wanting drip rails. Real rains like you get could be helping to keep your Oliver clean. I certainly would not think to add one, but the curbside one we have sure does the job! I'm going to see if that when the sun sets I can get a picture of the drip marks. They only come off with scrubbing. None on the curbside with the drip rail, but all down the streetside and rear. None on the front, perhaps due to its convex shape.

I am pleased that Oliver has returned to their "service in Hohenwald or submit a service ticket" model. I recently had a 12V electrical issue in our Hull #1291, submitted a ticket, and received top-tier help via email from Scottie with Oliver Service. It enabled me to resolve the issue in my driveway, no travel required. That is one of many reasons we own an Oliver. Four years after picking up ours in Hohenwald, we are still "happy [Oliver] campers."

Hopefully not to be seen as a contrarian, I have permanently removed rain gutters on both sides of our trailer. We got tied of all the crap getting hung up in the gutters and streaking down the side. I intend putting short gutters above the windows but have not found this to be necessary. We live on the rainy north coast of califorina and have NO REGRETS. Net results: its a lot easier to wash and keep our trailer clean and have eliminated streaking down the side of our trailer. WE WILL NEVER GO BACK.

We had that same problem until we tried a product called 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner. My wife uses it to off clean mildew on the outside of the house. I tried it on our hopelessly stained white window weatherstripping and after a 30 second soak they looked new. Perhaps it doesn't work on all stains, but it might be worth a try! 30 SECONDS Outdoor Cleaner Concentrate 1 gal Mfr# 1G30SJ - Ace Hardware.pdf

Yeah Rich, so it must have kept the drip lines off the fiberglass on both sides! I believe with 25" I should have about 6 ft leftover to place a drip edge on the rear just below the OLIVER sign. You had cautioned us as to how this product would not straighten out, creating wrinkles, which can be seen in your picture. This thread started with a $16 product, with the title "DO NOT use this product!" The one you tried is $40 and the Trim-Lok with 3M tape is $63. It's expensive, but now that I have it in hand, you can stretch this product at a radius opposite to how it's coiled up for packaging and it stretches nicely without wrinkling. Your warning and finally @ScottyGS's suggestion got me to the right product, thank you!

Dup post deleted.

Oliver2Roam, I’ll let you know when the Pelland product arrives. After posting my first response, I called Pelland Enterprise and was told the window seal is still on backorder, but they expect it to ship in about 2–3 weeks. Dean

I did same John, but I used the 3/4” and on both the driver and passenger side. https://a.co/d/08DrU7cW

Bob, I believe Mike was the first to switch to BLACK and he convinced me a couple years ago when I replaced ours. See what my white ones looked like! And on your hull, only 2 years old, they need replacing? The windows look black, the thin rubber on the stationery window is black and over time the black will still look new. Mold stains the white and you cannot see it on black. They may not supply white anymore due to this issue. Actually, the window frames look more balanced left to right with the black moldings (pic1). BTW, to be sure for your hull, remove one edge to see if the profile of the rubber looks identical (pic2).

I purchased this item and it appears to be the real deal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJRH19Y/ I'm not doing the windows but will run a full length strip up at the streetside roof line. Check the picture of the curbside awning of our Oliver. Prior owner likely installed this drip rail after removing the awning flashing. It appears to be the very same product (thanks Gregg)! For the 3 years we've owned our Oliver, we have water marks, drip lines top to bottom from dew/frost condensate or occasional rains. And it's only on the streetside, never curbside so this Trim-Lok drip rail has proven to work. It's like night and day. I will pressure-wash the Oliver and the curbside is clean and the streetside still has the water drip lines top to bottom unless you hand scrub with soap (something I'm not doing anymore). My plan is to copy this roofline drip rail at the same height on the streetside. I'll use blue painter's tape to mask the height for installation. Question for the group: I will get with my detailer, ceramic coating specialist, but now that we have a good shine on the Oliver, what do I need to do to carefully remove a line of the ceramic coating so that the 3M VHB tape will stick to the ceramic? 3M states to use rubbing alcohol for VHB tape prep, but an AI search returned that this will soften the ceramic coating and not remove it nor prep properly for VHB tape. I hate to be up there with acetone but that may be necessary. Thanks for any advice. JD