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JD, I was looking at these units too. The new ones can have both AC and DC connected at the same time. It automatically prioritizes to AC when the AC is energized, regardless if connected to DC. I personally wouldn't connect it to the DC to DC charger, unless it was a really convenient place to connect the circuit. I'd just run a dedicated fused wire from the battery via a relay that is mounted close to the battery. From there it would be easy to trigger the relay from an ignition-on circuit or a manual switch inside the cab. If your truck has an up-fitter option, you can program the switch to work only with ignition on. Cheers! Geoff

Hi Toni! Yes, it is great-as you know. We keep it in Fort Collins in the winter. We are traveling in Europe right now, but pick it up in early August and home base it in Jackson until early November. We are considering a West Coast trip sometime this winter - from San Diego to at least Oregon. Thanks for re connecting!

We left Pincher Creek and then traveled to Banff and beyond. We took a couple of days and nights in a Toyota Land Cruiser- the early Jeep “knockoff”. The route goes up the spine of the Acadian Rockies.

Thanks - I’ll go after it! I did this route out of Glacier National Park many years ago and it was exceptional.

Hi George, The Virtual load is only used if you don't have an actual load on the solar charger. However you have an actual load, which is the battery. So the State is correctly set to OFF. All your other data looks good, you are happily charging away in bulk charge. Cheers! Geoff

When I bring up the VictronConnect app, the first menu shows the many Victron devices we have. Then I click on the SmartShunt, MPPT solar charger, Orion XS DC-DC charge, the inverter/charger, etc. Which Victron device is displaying the data above and showing it's "OFF?" Do you have one or more Victron devices? What kind(s) total?

Got this mounted today and a temporarily wired to the tow vehicle 12VDC system. I will work a more creative power solution, more like what Ron had done with extra battery and solar, later this summer. I'm letting it sit flat again overnight and will fire it up tomorrow, fill it up with 2-3 gallons of water bottles for testing. I want to measure voltage loss on the TV batteries per hour and speed of cooling. I should move one of our Ruuvi sensors inside to record fridge temps.

Thanks for the response. The Solar Panels are Zamp. Two at 150 watts each. They are roof mounted. The data is derived from the VictronConnect application. The battery voltage is 13.2 v for a SOC of 40%. The sun was out almost full not covered much at all. I would have expected about 150 to 175 watts of power from the panels. I fail to understand how to enable to the ON state.

Certainly this is atypical! We need more info... What solar panels, roof mount or suitcase, what brand, how many watts? These are likely readings from the VictronConnect for your MPPT SC, do you have SmartShunt or battery readings? What is the batteries SOC? Near 100% SOC would cause a SC to limit charging? ...

We talked to a young man working at the ice cream place across from the statue. He said on a slow day maybe 300 people take a picture of it. The power of one line in one song!

Sounds like there are several good options - and - the failure of existing lights provides the opportunity to upgrade. Life is good(?)

We have the “Google” version of the Infotainment system. Whether that’s good or bad I can’t say. I’d -prefer- to have my vehicle system be as independent of my phone as possible. It would be great if there were great apps available to install on the GM infotainment system. There used to be better ones: Weather Channel, Audiobooks, etc. Now, there’s only some dodgy, no-name apps available. I’m looking at RAM for my next TV as they are coming out with the 2026 Ramcharger 1500 Hybrid. I guess I’ll check out their tech…

Hello Doug! Glad to see you on the forum. Are you loving your Oliver? :)))

Oliver haul #1619, 2025.Legacy Elite 2. Thank you.... I will did follow the de winterization procedure. Thinking going back to a known starting point would be prudent. I will continue and let every one know how it works out.... Again thank you so much for your responses. I absolutely love this travel trailer. But I do have a learning curve to work through. Worked all day, and am "home" for the night. I did have a concern about the trauma water heater with so much air in the lines...... Did not want to harm that in any way. Any thoughts on that? Again thank you all .......

I have gone through all faucets and opened them and closed them. I can hear changes in the sound of the pump. Always keeping under the 2 minute recommendation for pump run time. Does not improve. Still stumped...... I have cycled through 4 minutes of cracking open faucets. Seems like a lot of air in lines. Perhaps I am leaving the faucets open to long. More than a few seconds....... Pump runs very quiet compared to when all is working properly........

@Susan S Welcome to the forum! And glad to hear your issue got resolved. This is a great place to get any Oliver TT questions you may have answered. Please list your Year model & Hull# of your Oliver in your signature block. It will help members answer questions a lot easier. Safe Travels!

We had the exact same problem after cleaning our fresh water tank and using it the first time. We had to clean the filter multiple times before the water pressure to the faucets was back to normal. Thanks so much for the advice.

Thanks Ron. I cannot find a similar picture in the CFX5 manual. Instead notice the wording I've highlighted in this picture from the manual. Perhaps it will work as I had wanted, but I will wire a DC switch and fuse and open the DC circuit before plugging into AC when needed. I have both cables inserted as it would be a pain in my installation to reach the plugs day-to-day. Eventually I want a robust DC-only installation.

Actually, a solenoid was installed to trigger power to my suspension air-bag pump when the engine is on. The DC-DC is only powered with the key in ACC ( to power my VIAR) or ignition (engine run) positions. I do know that these Dometics have a staged built-in battery protection system to prevent complete draining of the vehicle’s starter battery. The limit of draw can be set and can allow for deep draw on dual batteries, as I recall.

We have not camped in Alberta, CA… yet. But it appears that there is plenty of camping available. A quick general query on Campspot.com - https://www.campspot.com/c/rv-camping-in-alberta/family-friendly? Here too, we really like the campedium app- https://www.campendium.com/alberta/free-camping

I'm not sure if this will help as I don't know if a 2017 trailer was wired the same way as my 2020 trailer. I disconnected my charge wire when I upgraded to lithium batteries a few months ago. Mine did not have a bus bar. I couldn't find anything under the seats or bed. Inside the bathroom access panel under the sink I found that my 7-pin cable entered a standard galvanized steel junction box containing all of the connectors. Each was connected with a Wago lever connector and then wrapped with electrical tape to safeguard the lever coming undone from vibration. I just found the black charging wire, unwrapped the tape and lifted the lever on the connector to pull the wire. I capped it, taped it and then put everything else back together. Oliver's electrical connection design was less than elegant but it made for an easy disconnect once I found the junction box.

I use the forward AC outlet installed at the front of the propane housing, and simply run an extension into the van to the Dometic’s AC cord to power via the inverter/battery bank when underway; not during inclement weather, of course. When staged in camp, same setup with shore power. When leaving camp, the extension is unplugged and my 100ah LFP portable power station is then used, which can run the Dometic over 30 hrs without solar input. I modified the DC cord by replacing the cigarette lighter plug with a 2-pin power connector, much more secure connection! My former TV had a dedicated 200W solar array on the bed cap for the power station; installing a larger array on the van is my plan when time allows (you know the gig!). I have a Victron 30A smart charger to maintain the power station, as needed. As a backup, I made a 12V extension that plugs into the rear DC-DC Anderson port to connect to the Dometic’s DC cord.

At least a few have done it, with the original door. Please add your hull # and infinity to your signature.

No, at least not on my model. The CFX manual specifies either a DC OR AC connection, as well as the CFX3 per this screenshot: Check your CFX5 manual, but I would be surprised if they are any different.

my 25 gmc goes nuts every time they up date something