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Hi John, I am going to be running some tests on the PM system as soon as I get an iPad to test with. So far every other system I have tested with have had no issues.

A couple of questions. I found the Precision 1/2" torque wrench many of you have purchased. I assume you needed to purchase an extender that you attach the socket to in order to use this torque wrench on the lug nuts on the wheels on the Olliver. Which one specifically did you buy? Also, I don't think I have 1/2" sockets. Any idea on the size of the sockets for the lug nuts, the Bulldog coupler and any bolts/nuts on the Dexter EZ Flex?

Nitrogen filled tires for the average application are more or less a scam , just use air and don't fret about a non-issue. I used to fill high performance jet aircraft tires with N2 when I was an A&P, since it is bone dry and marginally better at staying at a set pressure during wild temperature swings, but all the smaller planes got good old shop air.... It is best to use air that has gone through an effective moisture separator, especially in a humid climate. You really don’t want water inside your tires, since it can corrode the wheels and valve stems. If you have a small compressor at home, consider adding one inline with the regulator, if you haven’t already, and be sure to drain the main tank often. Dry air is good air. It preserves your air tools and is absolutely mandatory if you want to paint using an air sprayer. If you have to fill at a gas station, just hope their system is adequately maintained. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a3894/nitrogen-in-tires/ John Davies Spokane WA

From Wikipedia at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmosphere_of_Earth : "By volume, dry air contains 78.09% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, 0.93% argon, 0.04% carbon dioxide, and small amounts of other gases. Air also contains a variable amount of water vapor, on average around 1% at sea level, and 0.4% over the entire atmosphere." I assume that if you kept on filling with air, you'll just be gradually increasing the percentage of Oxygen and other gasses until you reach a state equivalent to pure air. Or not. Just spit-balling...

I don't consider it a $150 wrench, but a $150 accurate insurance policy, which is ever so important for those of us with only one wheel on each side.

Water was coming in between the porch light and hull probably entering through mounting bolt holes or hole for electrical wire on our older style light. When sealing the older style porch lights like we have, 3M 4000 Marine sealant or Marine silicone sealant can be used. This sealant is not used on black gaskets that I believe you have. Your porch lights have a black gasket between the light and hull. It's possible water could enter the hull if your gasket is not sealing properly and Captain Tolley's might stop it, after reading information about this product. When you visit Oliver they can replace the light's black gasket over the area where the leak is located. We find leaks with a water hose pouring over the area that might be leaking, like you. Oliver can test for leaks, but if you know where the water is coming in, will be helpful information for Oliver. Care needs to be taken when tightening screws on fixtures with or without gaskets on the outer hull to prevent damage to the gel-coat around the fixture. When camping, if I'm not prepared to permanently fix a leak, also keep a roll of white electrical tape. Used this tape on the exterior where the water is coming in to temporary stop the leak. Believe SeaDawg recommended another kind of tape in another thread they keep on hand for temporary repairs, too. We purchased Ollie used and found a few leaks. Once the leaks were corrected, have hardly had any issues with Ollie. Main thing for us now is keeping the weep slots clear!!!! Here's the style porch lights we have:

I had previously applied Capt. Tolley's crack sealer to the gasket around each porch light (to stop streaking), and a second time to the porch light above the window that leaked, before going through the above exercise. Is that what you mean by 're-sealing', or something else?

We have early style porch lights, not sure if this would apply to later style porch lights. Water was coming in from the porch light between shells dripping from the top of the dinette window. When we resealed the porch light over the window, fixed the problem. Saw another leak from the rear Oliver sign, leaking between shells traveling around the rear window and dripping from the bottom of the window on the curbside bed. Once we found the leaks, fixed them without further problems.

We experienced the same problem: the weep holes were clear, as were the channels, but still had a wet bed on the driver's side after a storm. Yesterday, I pulled the Ollie to our house, and my wife trained a hose on the suspect window. It took a while, but rivulets appeared in several spots running down the side of the interior below the window frame. The frame is caulked, but there were several breaks in the caulk through which the water ran. I cleaned out the existing caulk as well as I could, and re-caulked the entire bottom of the window frame. We had a storm last night; this morning, the bed was dry. It's a small sample size, but I'm hoping this solved the problem. I don't understand enough about the window frame's structure to understand how the water got to where it did from the channels; I had checked the exterior caulking of the window, and it appeared to be intact. We're going to Hohenwald in a couple of weeks for some odds & ends, and I'll ask. Anyway, you may want to check the caulk on the underside of the window frame. Good luck!

I wanted to offer a few suggestions for removing the window seals and tracks. Please read the entire message first as my writing style is a little disjointed. And if you think it tough to read, you should be grateful you don’t have to think like this.? First off, only do this if you feel you can’t clean the tracks and drain slots with brushes, vacuums and compressed air. It takes me about 30 minutes to remove and replace the seals, minus the drying time for the seals. Removing the outside seal for the fixed glass track is pretty simple, I used a metal pick to raise the seal enough to grab it by hand and then pulled it out. The sliding glass track has a different seal that is actually 5 individual pieces. Without looking closely you would think that it is all one piece. The top and bottom horizontal pieces are straight and run the length of the track. The curved corners are two separate pieces with a short straight vertical piece between them. My trial and error procedure is to remove the window shade assembly first and then the screen. The screen has spring clips on the top. Slide the screen open enough to grab it on both sides and push up while pulling the bottom out. With the screen out, remove the sliding window rubber stop. I think a piece of masking tape on the window frame will prevent the sliding window from scratching the frame with window stop removed. Wish I had thought about that before scratching my frame. Working from the outside, remove the outside seal. Next remove the short vertical seal between the curved corner pieces in the sliding window track using something like the pick and a butter knife. The seal is U shaped and it is necessary to fold either of the side portions into the middle and then carefully remove the entire piece. Removing the short vertical piece first will allow you to slide the bottom corner piece upward into the space created by removing the short vertical seal. Do not remove the corner pieces as the are very fragile due the the cuts is the sides which allow the seal to fit the round corners. Now begin removing the long bottom seal by folding both sides in and lifting it out of the track an inch or so at a time. After you get about half of it out you can begin sliding it out from under the window. Now you can clean the seals, tracks and slots by which ever method you prefer. Allow the seals to dry if you cleaned them with soap and water. I treat mine with 303 protectant before reinstalling them. If you are any questions, please ask and I’ll provide any help I can. Mike

Missing pictures from original posting. I hope?