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Having remembered instructions included with a backpacking personal water filter I have, I asked "Google AI" the following question: "do camping water filters need anything between uses?" And the reply was: "Yes, camping water filters need cleaning and drying between uses to prevent bacteria and algae growth. After each trip, you should flush the filter with clean water and allow it to dry completely before storing it in a cool, dry place, preferably in a sealed bag. For long-term storage, some manufacturers recommend a more thorough cleaning with a diluted bleach solution or sanitization, and it's always best to follow the specific instructions for your filter model. " Certainly makes sense to me. Bill

Thank you for your responses. I was told that this is a outstanding to get feedback on what you need to do. I'm glad that I bought a ollie

I have these 3000 thermal windows in my 2020 escape. I really like the looks of these but i have had a few issues. I had one fog and was replace under the one-year warranty. last fall stopped at rest area, and one was gone. after doing some research I found that this is common problem. If a stone hits the edge of the glass the window will shatter. I ended up putting a rubber door guard around each window to prevent that from happening again. This year's trip I noticed one was full of water and had to be replaced. Escape has stopped using them and replaced them with acrylic windows. so now you can choose of sliders or acrylic. I wish Oliver would offer a choice. I really like the build Quilty of the Oliver and I just don't think this window is up to their standards. VID20250830072731.mp4

The problem they cite for the regulation is a "hot skin" condition where voltage leaks into the trailer frame (and skin on metal skinned trailers) via a short or bad appliance and can't reach ground because of an open ground connection to the pedestal. In this situation a person can complete the circuit to ground by touching a metal part of the trailer and potentially get electrocuted. I suppose, in that scenario, there would be voltage on the trailer ground wire as well as the other grounded metal parts. Still, any device that detects an open ground and cuts power should prevent that scenario. (BTW, I did get a little jolt from one of our trailers once because of a poor ground connection.)

I have not. I just drain it completely. The guy who developed it says the additive prevents growth of harmful critters. So far in almost a year I haven't had any negative effects. I have used it on four separate trips. I will be using it next week for the first time since early summer, so if I don't survive, I'll let you know. 🤣

The new rule isn't retroactive, it only applies to new RVs.

Here's a more detailed explanation courtesy of AI- Bonding the ground and neutral together at an RV pedestal creates a secondary neutral-ground bonding point, which violates the National Electrical Code (NEC) and RVIA building codes that require only one bonding point in a distributed electrical system. This single, primary bonding point must be located at the main service panel, such as the campground's incoming service panel. When the ground and neutral are bonded at the pedestal, it establishes an additional connection between the neutral and ground conductors, which can lead to several hazardous conditions. If the neutral conductor fails (e.g., due to a loose connection, corrosion, or damage), the current from the load will seek an alternative return path. With a secondary bonding point at the pedestal, this current can flow through the grounding conductors, including the equipment grounding conductor (EGC) and the RV chassis. This causes the safety ground, which should normally carry no current under normal conditions, to become energized and carry the full load current. This condition is dangerous because it can result in a "hot skin" on the RV, meaning the metal frame and any connected appliances become energized at 120 volts. If the ground conductor also fails in this scenario, the risk of electric shock increases significantly. A person touching the RV while standing on the ground could receive a severe or fatal shock due to the energized chassis. Furthermore, this secondary bonding can cause ground loop currents, which may induce hum or buzz in audio systems and can trip GFCI outlets even with minimal load current. In summary, bonding the ground and neutral at an RV pedestal creates a dangerous condition by allowing fault current to flow through the safety ground, potentially energizing the RV chassis and creating a serious shock hazard. This is why the bonding must be performed only at the main service panel and not at the pedestal or within the RV itself.

If the ground is bonded to neutral at the pedestal, instead of a separate direct run back to main panel ground as it should be, the ground conductor will become the neutral if the neutral connection is lost inside the trailer.

Your friend is correct! The Oliver’s Progressive Industries Power Management System will shut-off power for an “open ground,” but it does not comply with the 2026 NEC changes that also requires monitoring for an “energized ground.” Either of these conditions can result in a “hot skin” shock hazard! Cheers! Geoff

I think this scenario occurs when connecting to a generator without a bonding plug. Mossey

Spoke with a friend today who is very knowledgeable on the subject and he said that none of the EMS products on the market right now satisfy the requirements of the upcoming code for Grounding Monitor Interrupter's in RV's. He said while they might cut power when a ground is missing they will not protect in other rare scenario's where power is on the ground wire.

The hose on ours pinches easily when in use, restricting flow. The hose is quite soft, so it doesn't take a sharp bend for it to collapse. Before taking off the panel insert to check under the sink, make sure the hose isn't slightly pinched when it's pulled out. It took us a few uses to figure this out.

@Steve MorrisI have adopted this mod and really like it. When you store the filter do you do anything special so that it is ready to use for the next trip?

I just got around to doing this mod. Super easy since Geoff did all the design work and sourced the components. Thanks! I previously had the Level Mate attached just inside the door to make turning it on easy when we arrived at the camp site. However I was unwilling to drill into the beautiful fiberglass finish for mounting so I used Command strips. Just me touching the Level Mate to turn the switch on was enough to throw it out of calibration so it became useless. I wired it up, mounted it in the same location mentioned above and hopefully will never have to touch it again. Now I too have 9 remaining converters. If anyone is considering doing this mod, drop me a line and I'll happily drop one into an envelope for you. Thanks again for posting this mod.

I doubt that the "Company Store" will happen any time soon. Since the end of the Covid induced boom in RV sales, the RV market has not been anywhere near even what it was prior to Covid. This along with many economists predicting an economic downturn plus an unsettled political climate basically forced Oliver (along with much of the RV industry) to reduce staff. In turn, this reduction in staff has caused even fewer people to be available for what might be called "non-essential" activities. Please be reminded that Oliver is very sensitive to not only its own bottom line, but, also the well being of its employees. During the 2008 recession when Oliver stopped producing travel trailers, Oliver was the only company (that I know of) that never laid off any of its employees. Those employees that were involved with travel trailers were all offered comparable jobs in other areas of the overall company - like the walk-in tub line. Bill

According to AI: "No, propane tanks are not required to be on the ground to be refilled; in fact, for safety and stability, above-ground tanks must be placed on a solid, level surface, like a concrete slab. While some tanks are buried underground, the key requirement for refilling is accessibility for the delivery truck, not a specific placement on the ground. Above-ground tanks Placement: Must be placed on a stable, level surface like a concrete slab or compacted granite to prevent instability from water runoff. Accessibility: The tank needs to be easy to access, with the propane truck able to get within about 80 feet. Safety: The area should be well-ventilated and clear of obstructions like trees, shrubbery, or power lines that could cause damage or block access. " I suspect that what you are running into are local dealer (or even national chain store) standard practices that are designed to lessen the loads that workers have to carry/lift combined with their not wanting to be held liable for damages to RV's and/or other structures due to troubles getting tanks in/out of reasonably confined spaces. As we all know, propane tanks are not light and getting them in/out of our Ollies is not the easiest task regardless of the tanks being full or empty. Frankly, I insist on taking these tanks in/out all by myself because I don't want damage done to my Oliver by someone that simply isn't as careful. There have been a number of discussions here on the Forum over the years about aluminum/fiberglass tanks and I'm certain that at least one owner has them. Good luck! Bill

To close the Truma valve on my 2020 you turn the handle 1/4 turn counter clockwise. To open 1/4 turn clockwise. With the handle on, the handle points to the rear of the trailer when closed and to the street side when open.

Speaking of damaged pedestal wiring, we saw this smashed meter on a pedestal in a COE campground in Arkansas.