mountainoliver

Concerning the issue of running the Dometic air conditioner on battery power through the 2,000 watt inverter. I realized that I stated that the inverter could handle 2,000 watts load. (I have gone back to my original post and corrected it) Actually the inverter is very similar to a 2,000 watt generator. The Zantrex inverter will run 1,800 watt loads continuously and 3,000 watts surge not 2,000 watts continuously. The Dometic air conditioner draws about 1,600-1,700 watts. The inverter will be at it’s limits so absolutely no other AC loads while running the air conditioner!

I used this transfer switch for running my air conditioner through the inverter. Only two cables no issues getting the switch wired. I did change out the cheap plastic wire strain relief bushings for standard metal clamp type bushings. The cable on the right comes from the power distribution panel and the one on the left goes to the air conditioner. I’ve checked the terminal strip screws on several occasions and they’ve always been tight. Don’t try to use the Zantrex 15A switch, it’s just enough to run the Penguin AC Unit but gets pretty warm after a few minutes even with the soft start module. I switched over to three Battle Born batteries a few years ago and they can run the AC unit for maybe a couple of hours, although I’ve never run it for more than a half hour or so because I haven’t wanted to totally deplete the batteries. My 320 watt solar system would take several days to completely recharge the batteries. The 2,000 watt inverter seems to handle the load well but, I make sure that there are no other DC loads at the same time.

I have posted this before when talking about this light’s propensity for leaking. My light leaked four times in the first three years of owning our trailer. Oliver caulked it twice and I caulked it twice. I realized that this issue was going to come back over and over so I decided to do one final repair. When I picked up our trailer, I asked for and picked up several sheets of fiberglass scrap cutouts from windows and doors. I used a piece of this to make a plug for the hole. I removed the light and epoxied the plug into the hole from the inside. I used a high solvent based epoxy for this then I later fiberglassed over the plug to reinforce the patch. Now four years later still no leaks.

Cool, a homemade camper using a utility trailer for the base/frame and using a sheet metal carport/outhouse for the cabin. Ingenious!

“Also changed the differential oil at 1,000 miles and found metal shavings on the drain plug/magnet that was larger than expected. 😐“ I owned a 2017 Tundra for a short while and also found machining shavings in the rear differential so I guess that nothing has changed in 7 years.

Do you have any photos of the installation? I’ve already installed a compressor fridge in my trailer five years ago but, there may be others who would be very interested in seeing the installation (I am as well!). Thanks

Yes and only slightly better looking than the Airstream horse trailer AKA the Basecamp. 🤪

I don’t know but it looks like the two screws came up from the underside, went through the piece with the igniter, and threaded into the top cover. Are the two bosses in the top cover threaded? Can you look from underneath at the other good burner and see if there’s two screws going up into the top cover? Could that burner never been assembled completely from the start?

That’s where I found the #6 welding cable and battery temperature sensor cable. I think that was the extent of the “solar pre wire” for my trailer.

I don’t know Steve, I don’t really like the term “exam”! That has all sorts of implications that involves sharp instruments etc. 😲

It is and thankfully Steve provided counseling to help me through it all! 🤪

As far as mounting the panels, the combiner box and, the interconnect wiring…. I paid Oliver service to do that. I bought the Zamp panels from Oliver and since they know exactly where the aluminum plates are located in the outer roof, they mounted the panels as well. All other wiring and solar controls ScubaRx and I installed. I had to look the other way and bite down on a broken arrow when the first hole was drilled into my new camper but have since gotten over that trauma.

I don’t remember that there were any wires pre installed in the ceiling but know that there were #6 cables and the temperature sensor wire running from the basement area just aft of the pantry up the wall between the window and pantry, into the open area where the radio is located. Oliver service connected to the #6 cables near the radio and ran those back to the attic area up between the roof panels and to the location where they mounted the combiner box.

When we purchased our trailer in 2017 Oliver was just changing solar equipment brands. They changed from Blue Sky equipment to Zamp equipment. I didn’t know much about solar power at the time so defaulted to not getting solar. ScubaRx schooled me about the Blue Sky vs. Zamp architecture and I choose to add Blue Sky solar. The trailer (at least at that time) was “pre wired for solar.” The roof did not include the combiner box but the #6 cable was in place and a battery temperature sensor was in place as well. ScubaRx and I had to run the 4-0 welding cable as needed and other #6 cables in the basement as needed along with the main switch and circuit breakers, shunt, etc. I had the Oliver folks mount the panels and do the interconnections. Technically, the total system was not completely wired, just the hard to access cable was in place. The trailers are not turn key wired by any means, you will have to do the majority of the wiring yourself along with all of the system component installation.

I think Oliver uses a material that is used by the boating industry called starboard. Others may have the correct name if this isn’t correct. I have used vinyl trim board readily available at Lowe’s and Home Depot in various widths and thickness. I also use an epoxy by Permatex that is very high solvent content and actually melts into both the vinyl board and the fiberglass surface and is much like fiberglass resin. 

The rear most end of my fresh tank is about at the center of the rear most axle. I think that the rear end of the grey tank is about even with the rear jack mounting. From these tanks rearward my trailer has nothing between the hulls. Basically both my grey and fresh tanks are above the galvanized steel subframe and it’s cross members. So for my trailer anyway no real load on the aluminum cross members at the rear. The aluminum cross members on my trailer are also doubled as well.

Correction to my previous comment. My axles are 3500 pound rated and 1750 pound rated springs. Sorry for the confusion.

To add to my previous response. Oliver mixed and matched axle components in an effort to create an axle that was more durable than the standard version. No other camper manufacturer that I know of provides beefed up axle assemblies. They just use something standard and that’s why other campers experience more failures than the Oliver.

We have the 3500 pound standard issue axles, four bolt brake backing plate and, 1750 pound springs. Dexter may recommend the 1/2 bolts but is that what Oliver actually spec’d out and used? Apparently Oliver spec’d out an oddball variety of axle components from time to time. For example a standard Dexter 3500 pound axle assembly would have a 5 bolt wheel hub but Oliver spec’d a 6 bolt version that would have been used for a 5200 pound axle but with the smaller bearings used on a 3500 pound axle. At least that’s what a Dexter representative once told me. The mix and match situation is not an issue for Dexter, they just need to know what we actually have.

Patriot, I’m curious? Your axle came with 1/2 inch U bolts? My 2017 came with 9/16 U bolts.

Patriot, I’ve done the same thing except I have two springs and enough U bolts/nuts for a complete axle. Springs are wrapped up and pack well.

Good advice! I also spend a lot of time under the trailer and my vehicles just looking around. Often find issues that are very minor but if let alone…..

jd1923, yes I just went back and found your original post and was getting ready to post a screenshot of it. Okay then that makes two issues. Check your frames.

There was a forum posting a month or so ago concerning the exact same issue along with very similar photos. I copied and saved the photos but not who posted them. I’m assuming that this is a different owner/situation? If this is a new issue then yikes another epidemic to lookout for like springs!

It’s been a few years and I may not be remembering the specifics exactly but, when we were looking for a camper I took an entire week of vacation and spent the week in Elkhart, Indiana. We toured just about all of the manufacturers. It seems like they all had service facilities and several free campsites available. All of these manufacturers have multiple dealerships as well. I’m hoping that once the dust settles, Oliver will be able to justify reopening their service center. I’m sure that they are scrambling right now trying to figure it all out. We’ve only owned our LEII for seven years and known the Olivers for seven years as well. We have also spent time with the service team early on. In my experience the Olivers and every team member that I have ever had the opportunity to meet have always had the highest integrity and I’m sure that they will get it all sorted.