Townesw

Do you move your trailer or is it set up in a semi permanent location? The reason I ask is it seems like I read one time that you were a campground host. If you are set up semi permanent you might consider using a wand and washing the bottom side of the top (inside) of your black tank to remove anything growing there that might be creating a smell. I have done this without making a mess by stretching a piece of clear plastic over the rim and sticking a flush wand through a small hole poked in the center of the plastic. I used the water wand out of this set and “flushed the s..t” out of it. https://www.jbtools.com/lisle-radiator-genie-water-air-cleaning-wand-88500/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADsRHpMRXm-qFPZ7YImI7C72eLsmp&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlvW2BhDyARIsADnIe-J2zOxhEo0lRORzmKQs5As-Ci31ib8zUwlffYUqKpuoGVDvXd0Air8aArl6EALw_wcB

Street side rear on hull 313.

Go to local auto parts store and get a can of 3M adhesive remover https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40070712/ Or order a can of ASI 0240 https://americansealantsinc.com/product/asi-0240/

Here’s another Lisle product that I am using now to pack bearings. You fill it with your grease gun through the zerk on the stem. A lot less waste than packing in your hand using grease out of a tub. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/handy-packer-bearing-packer IMG_2453.mov IMG_2454.mov

I’ve used Mystik JT-6 since the trailer was new. I use it to pack the wheel bearings also. It’s what they were using at the factory when we picked up hull 313 in March 2018. I think you can get it at TSC. Use a good grease and use it often.

Look under street side bunk on the battery box end. Thanks @mossemi

@Boudicca908Pry off the 4 plastic caps, remove the screws, cut the caulk around the insert using a plastic razor blade. If you intend to remove the insert be sure you have everything on hand to replace it. Keep in mind that the caulk will need to cure for a certain time before it can be wetted. I have taped a piece of plastic over the hole in order to use the shower before I replaced the insert.

There has been at least one owner (edit: more than a few owners) who forgot and left their black tank flush running. The water filled the black tank and then flowed over and filled the grey tank through the venting under the bathroom sink. The water then came back up through the shower drain, filled the shower pan, then flooded the cabin. If this has happened to a trailer I don’t see how you would ever completely eliminate the smell. I would ask the previous owner if this happened to your trailer. Read this thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3447-left-black-tank-clean-out-hose-on/

Battery gas? Have you looked for leaks in the battery compartment?

@jd1923 What is the stuff attached to the Simpson Strong Tie? Have you replaced the quarter turn valves with solenoids?

Summary: make sure your accumulator is not rubbing against the bottom of the curb side bunk. Check the cutouts above the rear jacks. Check the duct under the curb side bunk. I noticed black dust on the board that the water pump and accumulator are mounted to. Turns out that the pump, piping, accumulator, valve, etc. assembly doesn’t really fit together well but it is screwed to the board anyway. The misalignment between the pump and accumulator caused the rubber bushing in the mount on one side of the accumulator to become dislocated and the accumulator rubbed against the bottom surface of the curb side bunk. I caught it before it wore through. I also noticed that both cutouts to access the studs to manually operate the rear jacks don't line up with the studs and would have made it hard to manually operate the jacks. I’ll enlarge these later. Also the 2 bolts on the rear curb side jack could rub through the heater duct.

If you stay at the campground in Grand Marais drive to the end of the Gunflint Trail and back.

I received an MSDS from Truma. For those who are interested, see Paragraph 13 on page 7 of the English language version. I think I’ll dump it in my gravel driveway rather than put it in my septic system. truma-watersystems-aquago-decalcification-tablets.pdf

I’m hooked up to my brand new home septic system and it’s time to decalcify my Truma AquaGo. I can’t find anything about the rinsate being septic system safe. Does anyone know what the tablets are made of and what the rinsate might do to a septic system?

I buy the Midwest fuel cans at TSC, throw away the spouts, and then put an EZ Pour spout and vent cap on the can. Use a step bit to drill the hole for the vent. The can seals up so tight it’ll swell up like a dead armadillo and still not pop the vent. https://ezpourspout.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm__Rk-6hhgMVlyvUAR3AMgX9EAAYASAAEgKmU_D_BwE