Geronimo John

These fasteners rely on the strength and having thicknes of the mounting board. I prefer to use Rivet Nuts (AKA RivNuts/Blind Flange Nuts). They have the advantage of expanding on the far side of the connection as well as board strength for pullout. I've found them to be quite strong when the surface being mount to is solid. Would not work on "foam board", but for PVC and metal they are super... at least from my experience.

Foggy Memory Reason: Because so many of our owners have great names, but I had never seen it named "Ollie", short for Oliver. Hence a unique name that I can actually remember. And my trailer's name gets mentionedd every time someone says Oliver! Hence it wins the most popular name award. Real Reason: I didn't have a creative name that I liked. LOL GJ

Totally agree with Mossey. As to a product to use with your next size screws I would consider is a small tube of silicon sealent/adheasive. It will allow removal of your new Stainless Steel screws, yet help keep them in place. Thanks for your post. Frankly I have never really LOOKED at mine. Will do shortly! Geronimo John

Ollie of course! 🙂

Why?

With ALL the mod's John d dis on his trailer, I would have no doubt that 50 was what the chart indicated for his trailer weight. GJ

Ditto. I also like having multiple energy sources vs. all electric. As stated if you are tied to the shore power for all energy needs that is fine. Unless you have a problem and then one would be SOL. At least with Propane, Battery and Shore power there are work arounds that can employed. Options make for a better experience. All eggs in one basket not so much from my experience anyway. GJ

I hope that the induction stove is an option not a required. If not an option, and elimination of gas, then the lithiium package would need to carry a lot of load for heat, convection oven and induction oven. Not realistic from a solar regen perspective. Generator would be needed. Maybe one larger than a Honda 2200i. GJ

And all the piping as well!

Yes and no. The travelers will turn on/off the pump regardless of which is attached to the switch outside terminals. But they do make a difference. Many like having a circuit OFF when both switches are down. If yours is this way, do nothing more. If the pump is off with one switch up and the other down, then reverse the two traveler wires and you will be happy. Said differently, if the pump is on when the bath switch us down, reverse the travelers. Hope this helps. GJ

Well done! GJ

For out west the 9.5k BTU would not be my choice. Our 13K unit works like a charm. Has RecPro modified the design for new ones that have a remote Thermistor and compressor shut down when the fan shuts off? I heard that they may have a fix to use the existing drain, True? GJ

Is yours a Set 2 unit? If yes, did you do the two mods? thanks GJ

Glad you are making progress on the brake issue. Also glad you were not injured in doing so. As shown in your picture, you chose not to use your on-board jacks as safety fail safes. Yes they can get in the way, but having them down can save your life. GJ

I have extensive experienece with carbon fiber vs alloy aluminum for structural components under heavy load. Specifically in critical components such as hang glider frames. I have many times put my life on the line with them in that sport. They are strong and reliable... until they are not. When they fail, the consequences are generally been dire. This happened to two of my free flight friends. They died. The problem is that carbon fiber components are extremely difficult to inspect for tell-tale structural failure. With aluminum, for most spars, we see micro crazing then small cracks. They grow as the structural intregruity deteriorates. I no longer fly or use carbon fiber for life safety applications. The reason is that the inspection technology to ensure they are still safe to use is way way beyond what the average owner can do at home or in the field. GJ