Geronimo John

It was at this cost that I reacted that a discount was in order to encourage owners to renew them when faded. From $345 to $73 now that's a discount. I want to hire you as my lead negotiator. There are several decals "on the side" and one on the front. I suspect the $345 quote was for a full set on three sides complete inclusive of the "Sort of Niki Swish" down the two long sides. And the $73 was just for the decal over the storage area hatch/water heater. Can you kindly clarify? If the $346 quote was for a flll set on all sides, that seems really reasonable. Or was there a scope change for the labor to be provided? Thanks GJ

JD: You sure don't fool around when doing a project. Congrats! Looking forward to the finished project this summer. GJ

I ASSUME that the cost would be for two. Regardless, a 50% discount would make the advertisement more likely to be replaced over time. Also improves the look of the fleet as it ages. GJ

For sure. That 711 miles from Houston is a bit far. Hopefully we'll hear of other firms that also do great PPF work. I cover many states west and can deviate routs easily with planning time to do so. GJ

On all three of those mountain passes, with a F-150 I DO stop and scan my brake temp's. Not because they were starting into or were in fade mode, but out of an abundance of caution. The Big Horn to DT brake temps were high and a cool down was the smart stop to do. I transverse an 10% gravel road in OK twice a year. With our F-150 I use low range 4WD and lock up the rear axle as well. As you state a larger truck for these roads would be nice for sure. But overall for us the F-150 Super Crew FX4 is overall our best solution. Would love to have a 6.7 diesel with jake brake in the F-150. Just dreaming.... GJ

I have yet to use my city water hookup. Fresh water hookup and boondocking ports are my preference as I control peak pressure to the system with these. The city water hookup is a gamble as the city water pressure can be very high. Sometimes dangerously high to our plumbing. So that's why I don't feel the need to "Feel Lucky"! When winterizing, I also find it more difficult to get the RV antifreeze into the city water hookup unless I remember to "vent" the system: Opening the exterior shower valve and it's handle latch helps just a little. Removing the exterior shower head helps a bit better. Opening an interior cold water valve works even better. GJ

Post deleted. See JD's post above for the real skinny!

Two get backs: A. If I recall that was a DIY of the past. Your pictures certainly demonstrate its usefullness for all owners to seriously consider. Thanks for posting the pic. I do hope that OTT has picked upon the idea as it is a no brainer for them to just do. B. Your picture is also "Gollden" in another way! Love the tank gauges! GJ

JD: I also do not use the auto change over valve. For those of us who want to know when a tank has run dry, why not replace the change over valve with a "T". Then replace the getting gray hair OEM hoses with less "tight turns" ones that the change over OEM setup has. All: Any unintended consequences that come to mind would be appreciated. PS: I do think it wise to carry a spare regulator. Would be interested in a good brand. Below is what over the years I harvested from several owners: GAS REGULATOR: · The OEM Hull 505: GR-9984XF with 345,000 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder. · Possible Smaller Replacement Part if above is not available: GR-9994XF has 262,500 BTU PROPANE REPLACEMENT HOSES: 12” with 90⁰ Street Elbow Preferred Topgun2 Cautions: A couple of notes: Check the size of the connections on the hoses. Be careful that you do not over-tighten the fittings. I believe that the torque setting is 25 foot pounds (confirm this). Use yellow "gas" tape or gas pipe dope. May need a ¼” male NPT X ¼” Female inverted flare fitting.

JD: I do wish I had your "Super Power" system. Our three Battleborn's pale in comparison. Regardless, Battleborn advise for 8 months of storage where a deep freeze is possible mirrors your concept. They stated to Equalize, and then draw down SOC to 60% SOC. Kill alll power flow via a master switch and let it go for the winter. So far it works well. I typically find 8 months later that the SOC has only dropped a couple of percent at most. Their logic is that in our case the Battleborns may freeze, but with ZERO power draw until the next summer they thaw and all is good to go. Up on arrival I record the SOC and equialize within a few days. GJ

Not me. The two mods FIXED the Houghton Set 2 humidity issues and short cycling. But as previously stated, the mods are not something many owners would want to risk. GJ

Just about every owner's location can impact the winterized trailer. In addition to studying your battery Owner's Manual, I suggest that you contact your battery MFG and state the conditions you will be storing your Ollie, for how long, and if power is always available there during the winter. GJ

Is this correct, or is it mounted from inside of the trailer, just inside the window track? Asking as I have the same problem you solved. Thanks GJ

Was in travel status CONUS. Now back in HI. I'm a little late in this conversation. You have a relatively new Chevrolet Express 4x4. Likely with their max tow capacity of up to 10,000 pounds. Why worry with the tank valve issue and just get down to a lower campground? GJ

2016 Legacy Elite II, Twin Beds, Hull #124 It's likely time for you to replace both tanks anyway. If the propane pressure regulator is OEM, I would replace it as well! GJ