Geronimo John

I recall they are: D35 Axles have 10 X 2.5" shoes. D52 Axles have 12" X 2" shoe. Both magnets sets pull a nominal 3 amps each. Wiring per above is the same (Run thru the axle) GJ

Thanks guys. I sort of suspected as much. But was wishing the other way. GJ

When getting the D52's does Alcan run the brake line in or along the outside of the axle? Do they use "high dollar" water proof connections? Do they check what wire gauge was used before connecting to the new 12" brakes? GJ

I assume those are these.... From their web sigte: "Ground planes are not required for this antenna to function properly making it ideal for fiberglass roof installations." And also F-150's with aluminum bodies I may add . GJ

Just for grins question as most of my miles are solo: But, could a passanger successfully use the internet while traveling in the flatlands? GJ

Hope you don't want to boondock in that kind of weather.......I can't even imagine! Welcome to our forum! Good luck on your quest. GJ

And for sure this is the place to get the best options on how to do them. Especially now that we have a great search engine at our fingertips! YEA!

Double ditto!

Only if you needed them to work..... 🙂

Yes with a minor edit. I copied this axle below: It IS the desired D52 axle which is designed for 5200 or 6,000 pounds of load depending on use. But it is also showing that it was derated for this use with the Dextre 3500 spring rating. With two per axle that tells us that it has the Dexter 1750 springs on each end. GJ

I think it would fit, but not when doing a minimum radius turn. Would also need a stone guard as the tank is made from PE. Will ponder this when I get back to Ollie in June. Thanks for the idea! GJ

I do as well, and would like to have the extra space and security over the OEM basket. At the 2025 Ralley I spoke to the Seabiscuit Team and suggested that they consider an enhancement for the Olivers. My suggestion was to increase the box depth (Fore and Aft) to include jack inside. That would gain about 5" of additional space less the volume of the jack. My only problem, and reason for not following your lead is that without massive solar and a nuclear power plant (600+ amp Litho's), I have to carry a gas can. Not good in a sealed box with stuff that could spark a leak. For safety reasons I would not be safe carrying one in my TV bed (with a sealed cover), in the cab of our TV,or on the back of Ollie. With your set-up would it be realistic to mount a 2 gallon fuel in front of your box in mini basked with a stone guard? Another mod could be to address the gas can issue dirctly. Since gas fumes are heavier than air, maybe having a wire mesh for part of the bottom of the box to keep the box fume level below the lower explosive limit should there be a gas can leak. What do you think? GJ

I would not bet my life on it, but I would bet a beer... especially if it one of Art's home brew's! Each magnet pulls 3 amps, or close to it. You should have 12+ volts at each Dexter drum brake. Measure current flow when energized. Start with measuring all four of them with a clamp on amp meter on the wire going back to the brakes. With the brakes energized, they should be pulling close to12 amps and have around 12V. If so, all is good. If not start inspecting current flow and voltage at each magnet. PS: An easy way to do the above is to just pull the emergency break away to activate all four brakes. But don't leave them locked up for long...... Somebody check my brain on this one. GJ

Well, I was waxing Ollie and had the spare tire cover off. Crazy Horse rode by and thought I was rotating the trailer tires. He asked "Will you be rotating the spare in the process". I stared up at him and with a serious face said "Well of course everybody does that!". He asked "Where will it go". I replied right where it is now, but I'll rotate it 180 degrees so the rubber does not sag". He rode off pondering that further. GJ

Pretty neat device. Problem I see is that there will be times that the structural "post" will be in compression and tension. This fixture only withstands compresson. So it could be used for that purpose, then a means such as straps or other means to take care of the tension. Not as efficient as jacking it up, drilling a couple of holes and bolting it in place. Cost = 2 bolts/nuts, locktite and time. I have grown to not be a fan of Nylocks. Frankly they can be impossible to take apart when torqued hard. Only way to get them off then is to tighten them until they break or heat them and melt out the plastic. Nether of which I want to do while stand on my head in an enclosed space down there. GJ