GraniteStaters

I ran into a problem today when I was doing final steps of the install of the Victron Smart Shunt. I disconnected the Yellow chassis ground cable at the battery and on the chassis ground bolt leaving it in case of any issues. I connected the new 4/0 gauge battery lug to the chassis ground bolt. The other end is attached to the bus bar. Unfortunately I didn't check the Zamp until after I flipped the breaker back on and when I did I was greeted with the b01 error code. I quickly flipped the breaker back to off and after a brief time thinking about what the problem might be, I reinstalled the original Yellow chassis ground cable on the battery. This eliminated the Zamp b01 error code. I then reviewed the wiring diagram for the 6 Volt AGM installation and see that the Solar ground wire and Solar Port ground wire are installed on the battery so I can't fathom why the b01 error code indicating that the Zamp doesn't see the battery circuit as complete. I have opened a Service Ticket with Oliver to see if they can answer a few of my questions about the wiring diagram for the 2019 AGM batteries and if they have any suggestions. Any thoughts from the more knowledgeable folks on this forum would be appreciated?

If you are talking about connecting the generator/inverter to your propane quick connect, then you really need a propane hose with 1/4 inch male QC fitting and the correct length of hose with the correct fitting for your generator/inverter. My Champion dual fuel uses a 1/4 inch male QC fitting too, so in my case I have a two ended hose with 1/4 inch male QC that I connect to a normal 1/4 inch QC hose that has the male and a female QC fitting. Naturally the length is determined by where you might want to have the generator/inverter or similar low pressure appliance to be located. In your case, if I have guessed your intent, a five foot hose would be sufficient to go from the basket to the QC propane installed on the tongue of the trailer.

Here is the bus bar on the table top before the install.

I am making some modifications in my Victron smart battery shunt. I originally installed it inline just before the Xantrex inverter, but because the other wiring returns to the negative post of the battery on the side mount, I wasn’t seeing the current usage and missing the complete Victron picture. I needed a bus bar to connect to the main ground bar to see this draw. I purchased a Blue Sea 4 port bus bar and installed on PVC that I epoxied to the inside of the pantry fiberglass wall in the basement. I ran two additional 1/0 gauge battery cables with the appropriate lugs, one from the bus bar to the load side of the shunt and the other from the bus bar to the negative side of the inverter. The battery side of the shunt is connected to the 1/0 cable that originally connected to the negative of the Xantrex. I have now ordered the cable with lugs to connect the main ground bar to the new bus bar and will connect it to the chassis ground after removing the cable that connects to the side mount of the battery. I will leave the original cable in place, disconnected, labeled and secured I should see all flow at that point I will attach some pictures after the install is completed l

The valve I was referring to is the bypass/isolate valve to remove the water source.

We had an error on our Truma this AM after changing it from ECO mode to COMFORT mode. The remote was flashing. I checked the external LED and confirmed the message to be the Truma circulation pump not having sufficient water, no prime. We are using our fresh water tank at this campground. It didn’t take long to realize that after I had sanitized the fresh tank, which requires bypassing the Truma, that I hadn’t turned it back on. We hadn’t used any hot water since arriving so hadn’t noticed. We turned the valve to inline and heard the water fill the Truma, but shortly after cycling the outside and remote switches we still flashed in COMFORT mode. I was puzzled for a bit, but the error was the same sssllsll indicating the Truma circulation pump had insufficient water aka prime. I then bled the kitchen hot faucet and had spurts of air and then steady flow. I recycled the outside and remote switches and we were back in business. I believe the Truma didn’t flash in ECO mode because there was water in the unit.

Check the power cord behind the drawers below the sink. You will need to remove luan backing and will see the outlet and the plug. If you find the plug loose then I would zip tie the outlet.

This is the unit I purchased and plan to install too.

We have used the Wi-Fi ranger with campground Wi-Fi and with a Verizon Tether and also enabled failover too. It is a pretty impressive setup. I have had issues with disconnections because the iPhone needs us to "Trust" the connection. Recovery is to reconnect through the Wi-Fi Ranger GUI. I would order the Wi-Fi again. I believe the WeBoost is a no brainer, but because we have camped in some campgrounds in the NH White Mountains and the VT Green Mountains that have limited cell signal, I ordered an antenna from Wilson with more gain. I haven't replaced the antenna that came with the unit yet, but I have attached the new antenna and strung the antenna wire through the dinette window and placed it in the same location on the roof. At times it seems to give me an additional bar and other times it doesn't. I did the advanced iPhone "hack" to see how the iPhone sees the connection and it appears to have a better empirical signal. As Wilson says on their YouTube channel, there is benefit in the WeBoost even if you don't get the visible extra bar. Rerunning the cable will be a pain because I will need to attach a pull string to the end of the existing cable in order to pull back the new cable from the antenna. I haven't decided yet whether it is worth it to do this yet.

John, we have the same issue you do in reverse and haven’t been able to go to our summer home in PEI. I suspect the border will be open just before you travel to TN as way to encourage tourism to Canada next year. Maybe there is an option for quarantine to allow this necessary or essential trip. Good luck. David

Fritz, I am 6’3” and have no problems sleeping in the curbside twin. I haven’t tried the street side as my wife sleeps there. I have tried in both directions and prefer the head to the rear especially since our 40lbs dog spends about 40 percent of the nights on my side.

I had a problem with the gasket on the bathroom fan too. When I removed the cover I observed that the adhesive tape had separated from the flimsy gasket. I went to HD and purchased a larger and denser foam and cut it using the original gasket as my measure. I decided to attach to the bottom and not the top and simply left about 1/8-1/4inch of the foam above the ridge. I pressed the adhesive portion of the foam against the inside circumference of the fan. It seems to work. I have enough foam to do this several more times and will probably cut the foam to adjust around the flanges on the top cover to get a better fit on version 1.01.

John, I see that David didn't completely reply to you. I emptied ours and flipped it over to find that the model is CR800/CR830. It doesn't fit on the pantry shelf. You could store it on the bottom shelf if you cleared out other stuff and tipped the pitched to get it in, then there is room for it to stand upright, but to me, that would be a pain in the neck every time we moved, emptying out part of the pantry, then putting stuff back in. So far we've been leaving it on the kitchen counter when camped, emptying it and storing it in a dish tub in the sink when moving. The only problem has come when I forgot to grab it out of our fridge at home one trip! Paula

Thanks, John

John, we like the Pur too and use it at home, but your version must be the 7 Cup version. Can you confirm? David

Welcome! We have #509 and are loving it! Paula

Thanks John, David is going to remove the fuses. Paula

Feedback about Tuson TPMS after several months and it is all good. After installing the repeater inside the Ollie, I haven’t had any issues with receiving the signals from the transmitters. They all start transmitting after the trailer starts moving, but they come online at different time which can be disconcerting. I would definitely install again. Downside of the install is we don’t have nitrogen in the tires or at least 100 percent nitrogen.

It is good to have more Ollies in New England.

I did try a few of the suggestions on this list including disconnecting all the supply cables and reconnecting them after hefting the tanks to insure they still had propane. I gave the regulator a whack or two too because I had a regulator on a grill that use to get low flame occasionally until I whack it a bit. I will describe the issue to Jason Essary and see if he has any ideas to fix the "bad" regulator. There isn't much going on in there other than reducing pressure.

After Paula and I ordered our 2019 LEII we both spent considerable time reviewing the forums for the tips, techniques, and trouble descriptions that folks have contributed. I remember some posts about having ready spares on hand, particularly on longer trips, and we had plans to do that so I purchased some ready spares, tools required and recommended, and additional materials to facilitate repairs. As it turns out, We are camping in Pittsburgh, NH today and for the next few days near the main source for the Connecticut River which runs between NH and VT through western Massachusetts, central Connecticut and onto the Long Island Sound. This is our first trip this far north in our home state of NH. We get to Ramblewood Cabins and Campground, find our site and proceeded to setup. We eventually started thinking about supper. Paula was prepping ingredients when she noticed the Truma light flashing on the control inside our Ollie. I went outside to review the flashing light pattern, got the manual out and read the description which indicated a propane issue. I had already turned on the propane tanks, but checked again to be sure. I had recently filled the tank that we had emptied on our last trip. I asked Paula to try the stove and she reported no propane at the burners. I checked to see if both tanks to insure that we had propane in the tanks and we did, but the regulator showed red aka empty on the tank we used last and when I manually switched to the recently filled tank, it also showed red. I remembered a post from folks about having a bad Fairview regulator either on the Oliver forums or one of the Fulltime RV forums on FB. One of my ready spares was a Marshall dual HC regulator. I found it in the basement and pulled the bag with the pipe dope and leak testing fluid. I removed the offending regulator. I installed the new regulator, reconnected the propane, leak tested and gave Paula the heads up to light the stove. Voila, all is well. I will open a service incident with Jason as we are still under warranty and get a new ready spare.

Thanks, everyone. I am going to do the I Install the shunt right before the inverter using a 4/0 gauge copper wire with soldered copper lugs fastening it to a piece of PVC that I will epoxy to the fiber glass between the inverter and the outlet there. I will take pictures to add to the thread. I neglected to say that I did crimp the lugs too.

How much pressure is in the bladder on the tank? I would imagine there is a cover for a Schrader valve where you can add or release air from the bladder. Maybe there is insufficient pressure in the bladder that accounts for more cycling.

I purchased a Victron SmartShunt battery monitor because I believe it will provide my wife and I with better information about our 4 AGM batteries. When I reviewed some of the recent posts about the install of Victron monitors, I see what appears to be best practice is to install it right after the negative battery terminal and before the inverter, solar controller, and main ground. I was thinking of installing in the basement next to the inverter on the street side adjacent to the pantry. What would I miss being able to monitor doing it the easy way, solar statistics? Also, I know that I should use AWG 4/0 cable with THHN/THWN covered copper stranded wire with copper lugs, but as I read the spec, a smaller diameter wire can meet the spec if it has sufficient number of strands. Does anyone know a reason why we should install battery AWG 4/0 wire for this application. As I always, I appreciate the perspective of the more experienced owners in this forum. I will heed your advice. I will eventually post pictures of the install once the final design and install is completed. David

We ordered ours in the spring of 2019 but had to defer delivery until September. It was a long wait to be sure, but worth it! Welcome!