GraniteStaters

It is good to have more Ollies in New England.

I did try a few of the suggestions on this list including disconnecting all the supply cables and reconnecting them after hefting the tanks to insure they still had propane. I gave the regulator a whack or two too because I had a regulator on a grill that use to get low flame occasionally until I whack it a bit. I will describe the issue to Jason Essary and see if he has any ideas to fix the "bad" regulator. There isn't much going on in there other than reducing pressure.

After Paula and I ordered our 2019 LEII we both spent considerable time reviewing the forums for the tips, techniques, and trouble descriptions that folks have contributed. I remember some posts about having ready spares on hand, particularly on longer trips, and we had plans to do that so I purchased some ready spares, tools required and recommended, and additional materials to facilitate repairs. As it turns out, We are camping in Pittsburgh, NH today and for the next few days near the main source for the Connecticut River which runs between NH and VT through western Massachusetts, central Connecticut and onto the Long Island Sound. This is our first trip this far north in our home state of NH. We get to Ramblewood Cabins and Campground, find our site and proceeded to setup. We eventually started thinking about supper. Paula was prepping ingredients when she noticed the Truma light flashing on the control inside our Ollie. I went outside to review the flashing light pattern, got the manual out and read the description which indicated a propane issue. I had already turned on the propane tanks, but checked again to be sure. I had recently filled the tank that we had emptied on our last trip. I asked Paula to try the stove and she reported no propane at the burners. I checked to see if both tanks to insure that we had propane in the tanks and we did, but the regulator showed red aka empty on the tank we used last and when I manually switched to the recently filled tank, it also showed red. I remembered a post from folks about having a bad Fairview regulator either on the Oliver forums or one of the Fulltime RV forums on FB. One of my ready spares was a Marshall dual HC regulator. I found it in the basement and pulled the bag with the pipe dope and leak testing fluid. I removed the offending regulator. I installed the new regulator, reconnected the propane, leak tested and gave Paula the heads up to light the stove. Voila, all is well. I will open a service incident with Jason as we are still under warranty and get a new ready spare.

Thanks, everyone. I am going to do the I Install the shunt right before the inverter using a 4/0 gauge copper wire with soldered copper lugs fastening it to a piece of PVC that I will epoxy to the fiber glass between the inverter and the outlet there. I will take pictures to add to the thread. I neglected to say that I did crimp the lugs too.

How much pressure is in the bladder on the tank? I would imagine there is a cover for a Schrader valve where you can add or release air from the bladder. Maybe there is insufficient pressure in the bladder that accounts for more cycling.

I purchased a Victron SmartShunt battery monitor because I believe it will provide my wife and I with better information about our 4 AGM batteries. When I reviewed some of the recent posts about the install of Victron monitors, I see what appears to be best practice is to install it right after the negative battery terminal and before the inverter, solar controller, and main ground. I was thinking of installing in the basement next to the inverter on the street side adjacent to the pantry. What would I miss being able to monitor doing it the easy way, solar statistics? Also, I know that I should use AWG 4/0 cable with THHN/THWN covered copper stranded wire with copper lugs, but as I read the spec, a smaller diameter wire can meet the spec if it has sufficient number of strands. Does anyone know a reason why we should install battery AWG 4/0 wire for this application. As I always, I appreciate the perspective of the more experienced owners in this forum. I will heed your advice. I will eventually post pictures of the install once the final design and install is completed. David

We ordered ours in the spring of 2019 but had to defer delivery until September. It was a long wait to be sure, but worth it! Welcome!

Paula and I experienced the popping sound with the A/C on at Davey Crockett. I suspect that you are on to something about the stabilizer jacks as we haven’t had it since. That being said, we haven’t had too many opportunities to use the A/C all night since TN last fall. I do put a bit more lift in the rear stabilizers to take some of the bounce out of the trailer. I will advise as to my results as we use the A/C more this summer in NE this summer.

The first couple of nights after we picked up our Ollie it made lots of popping noises near the AC. I've heard a few since then, but nothing like those first couple of nights. Paula

I own a Honda eu2000i and tested it on our 2019 LEII to insure that with the ez-start capacitor would run the A/C. It did just fine. It did require me to manufacture a neutral grounding plug to the Progressive Surge Protector to allow the successful transfer. I also had to buy an adapter to convert to the 30amp outlet on the Oliver. Factoring the weight of the inverter, gasoline and the additional power cord and adapter, I decided to investigate the dual fuel Champion inverter. It is 3000 watts when using propane. I had to add a low pressure regulator and hoses to allow connection to the propane ports on the LEII. It is just a bit heavier than the Honda + Gas, but not much if you are using a two gallon container. I don’t have gas in the inverter tank at all to keep the weight down. This unit also requires the neutral grounding plug, but has a 30amp TT outlet in addition to the 20amp duplex outlet. The neutral grounding plugs into the 20amp outlet. It is heavy to lift to the back of my truck, but with nice weather can be run right from there. Both inverters need protection from the rain per manufacturer because of their electronics.

I have wondered if they left the dump levers behind the doors to prevent folks from driving off with them open. Clearly you wouldn't drive off with the door open.

I live next to a Snap-on distributor, so I may ask him about getting this tool the next time I see him. Thanks for the post.

This looks like a place to add to our list.

John Davies suggested that I should start a new thread about my Tuson TPMS installation and attach some pictures. The first picture shows the Blue Sea bus bar, 4 fused circuits, that I installed under the dinette seat adjacent to the pantry. This is where the ground bar is located and as far as my power cable from the repeater reached. The repeater is installed under the dinette seat adjacent to the bathroom. Tuson says they want the repeater as far forward as possible and facing a certain direction too. I snaked the cable in the basement under dinette and there is a picture that shows where I installed it. In this picture, you can see the power cable that I ran to the Blue Sea bus bar. It is fused too. The two spares are still attached via a tie wrap and can be see right behind the transfer switch cable. You can see the smaller red power cable connected to the first circuit on the bus bar. If you look closely, you will see that I added a 4 position ground bar which tees with the original ground bar. I removed the screw that Oliver installed to hold the ground bar and replaced with one long enough to account for the thickness of the 4 position ground bar. The next picture shows the Oliver main 12 volt bus bar. The orientation is messed up, but left is down and right is up. This bus bar is located just beyond the fused breaker under the street side bed adjacent to the pantry. The power cable that supplies the bus bar I installed is connected over the positive battery cable that is fed from the fused breaker just visible to the right, but displayed on the bottom of this picture. The third picture is an additional picture of the fused power cable that I installed. Finally, the fourth picture shows the TPMS repeater and I snapped the picture upside down. It is attached with the peel and stick rubber backing. The wire adjacent to it is power for the LED courtesy light on the dinette seat wall adjacent to the aisle. I am not sure how important it is or not, but one of purported benefits of installing the repeater using the battery power is to get readings from the RV batteries while you drive. I am not sure how important that really is, but Tuson really wants me to have the repeater installed due to the overall length of the trailer. The repeater could be installed on the outside because it is waterproof. It only activates, like the TPMS transmitters inside the tires, when the trailer moves, so they are all powered off when the RV is sitting still after a period of time. The LED display is pretty old school, but the functionality seems good. The display can rotate between the tire pressure, tire temperature and battery reading or the preferred screen can be selected. It alarms for low and high pressure and high temperature. Low tire pressure will activate the TPMS sender too without the RV moving which I will test at some point. David Caswell

John, I really didn’t but because it is a feature you get when you install their repeater, I wondered if it might be useful. I will add some pictures later today after I get back from getting the A/C fixed on our Prius. It is going to be very hot here again today and for the next few days all over the Northeast

It is interesting to review this thread and I appreciate everyone's perspective. I just did some work to add in the Tuson TPMS repeater and take advantage of the battery voltage monitor/display on the TPMS LED display that we put in our TV. I added some an additional grounding bar and extended from the main bus bar to a Blue Sea 4 circuit bus bar under the dinette seat adjacent to the pantry. The repeater is under the dinette seat adjacent to the bathroom to get as far forward in the compartment as I can. I used some existing space of the PVC below the transfer switch for the small bus bar. It has a cover so there is little risk after it is energized coming in contact with the ground bar just a few inches below, but I will always disconnect when I work on it or be very careful. The bus bar is fused in the cable and again at each of the four circuits as required. The repeater uses only 11 milliamperes so I just used a 1 amp fuse. Will test next week because the repeater sleeps unless the trailer is moving. David

Our keypad also cracked over one of the numbers. The company is sending us a new pad. The one thing that I don't like is the noise it makes after you press your code, then press lock or unlock. It is quite loud. I do like the convenience of not having to remember to carry the keys all the time. Paula

This is the company that I bought my conversion kit from for my Q1200. They provide a beautiful kit along with wonderful instructions. The include the Teflon pipe sealer for some connections. They allow you to order different kits for different hose lengths. https://propanegear.com/weber-q-grill-compatible-rv-quick-connect-kit-8-ft-hose/

David and I left NH Feb 16 intending to camp in the south-eastern and gulf states working our way over to Mississippi and then coming back on the Natchez Trace Parkway, attend the rally in Alabama, then slowly camp our way back to NH, arriving home in mid-June. Then the rally was postponed and campgrounds began closing. Several days ago we decided that ending our trip and heading home was the wiser thing to do. We reached NH yesterday afternoon, sad to have our first real trip cut so short but we had great fun and learned a lot about our Ollie (happy we had brought the manuals with us!). It is time to stay home to help protect as many people as possible. Hope you all are well and planning your next trip.

I love your graphics. Banana Banners did ours as well, thanks to Bob Hunt. They need to give him a commission every time he sends an Oliver owner to them! We picked up in September and just left NH in mid February. The Trace and the rally are in our plans so hope to see you. Paula

I stay signed in all the time and get new notifications with no problem. Paula

I bought the FT Knox and it works well and was less expensive. Either is a deterrent. David

I am also planning to play before the event too. It is a very nice course. David

Thanks, Bill

Thanks for the feedback, John