GraniteStaters

Paula and I experienced the popping sound with the A/C on at Davey Crockett. I suspect that you are on to something about the stabilizer jacks as we haven’t had it since. That being said, we haven’t had too many opportunities to use the A/C all night since TN last fall. I do put a bit more lift in the rear stabilizers to take some of the bounce out of the trailer. I will advise as to my results as we use the A/C more this summer in NE this summer.

The first couple of nights after we picked up our Ollie it made lots of popping noises near the AC. I've heard a few since then, but nothing like those first couple of nights. Paula

I own a Honda eu2000i and tested it on our 2019 LEII to insure that with the ez-start capacitor would run the A/C. It did just fine. It did require me to manufacture a neutral grounding plug to the Progressive Surge Protector to allow the successful transfer. I also had to buy an adapter to convert to the 30amp outlet on the Oliver. Factoring the weight of the inverter, gasoline and the additional power cord and adapter, I decided to investigate the dual fuel Champion inverter. It is 3000 watts when using propane. I had to add a low pressure regulator and hoses to allow connection to the propane ports on the LEII. It is just a bit heavier than the Honda + Gas, but not much if you are using a two gallon container. I don’t have gas in the inverter tank at all to keep the weight down. This unit also requires the neutral grounding plug, but has a 30amp TT outlet in addition to the 20amp duplex outlet. The neutral grounding plugs into the 20amp outlet. It is heavy to lift to the back of my truck, but with nice weather can be run right from there. Both inverters need protection from the rain per manufacturer because of their electronics.

I have wondered if they left the dump levers behind the doors to prevent folks from driving off with them open. Clearly you wouldn't drive off with the door open.

I live next to a Snap-on distributor, so I may ask him about getting this tool the next time I see him. Thanks for the post.

This looks like a place to add to our list.

John Davies suggested that I should start a new thread about my Tuson TPMS installation and attach some pictures. The first picture shows the Blue Sea bus bar, 4 fused circuits, that I installed under the dinette seat adjacent to the pantry. This is where the ground bar is located and as far as my power cable from the repeater reached. The repeater is installed under the dinette seat adjacent to the bathroom. Tuson says they want the repeater as far forward as possible and facing a certain direction too. I snaked the cable in the basement under dinette and there is a picture that shows where I installed it. In this picture, you can see the power cable that I ran to the Blue Sea bus bar. It is fused too. The two spares are still attached via a tie wrap and can be see right behind the transfer switch cable. You can see the smaller red power cable connected to the first circuit on the bus bar. If you look closely, you will see that I added a 4 position ground bar which tees with the original ground bar. I removed the screw that Oliver installed to hold the ground bar and replaced with one long enough to account for the thickness of the 4 position ground bar. The next picture shows the Oliver main 12 volt bus bar. The orientation is messed up, but left is down and right is up. This bus bar is located just beyond the fused breaker under the street side bed adjacent to the pantry. The power cable that supplies the bus bar I installed is connected over the positive battery cable that is fed from the fused breaker just visible to the right, but displayed on the bottom of this picture. The third picture is an additional picture of the fused power cable that I installed. Finally, the fourth picture shows the TPMS repeater and I snapped the picture upside down. It is attached with the peel and stick rubber backing. The wire adjacent to it is power for the LED courtesy light on the dinette seat wall adjacent to the aisle. I am not sure how important it is or not, but one of purported benefits of installing the repeater using the battery power is to get readings from the RV batteries while you drive. I am not sure how important that really is, but Tuson really wants me to have the repeater installed due to the overall length of the trailer. The repeater could be installed on the outside because it is waterproof. It only activates, like the TPMS transmitters inside the tires, when the trailer moves, so they are all powered off when the RV is sitting still after a period of time. The LED display is pretty old school, but the functionality seems good. The display can rotate between the tire pressure, tire temperature and battery reading or the preferred screen can be selected. It alarms for low and high pressure and high temperature. Low tire pressure will activate the TPMS sender too without the RV moving which I will test at some point. David Caswell

John, I really didn’t but because it is a feature you get when you install their repeater, I wondered if it might be useful. I will add some pictures later today after I get back from getting the A/C fixed on our Prius. It is going to be very hot here again today and for the next few days all over the Northeast

It is interesting to review this thread and I appreciate everyone's perspective. I just did some work to add in the Tuson TPMS repeater and take advantage of the battery voltage monitor/display on the TPMS LED display that we put in our TV. I added some an additional grounding bar and extended from the main bus bar to a Blue Sea 4 circuit bus bar under the dinette seat adjacent to the pantry. The repeater is under the dinette seat adjacent to the bathroom to get as far forward in the compartment as I can. I used some existing space of the PVC below the transfer switch for the small bus bar. It has a cover so there is little risk after it is energized coming in contact with the ground bar just a few inches below, but I will always disconnect when I work on it or be very careful. The bus bar is fused in the cable and again at each of the four circuits as required. The repeater uses only 11 milliamperes so I just used a 1 amp fuse. Will test next week because the repeater sleeps unless the trailer is moving. David

Our keypad also cracked over one of the numbers. The company is sending us a new pad. The one thing that I don't like is the noise it makes after you press your code, then press lock or unlock. It is quite loud. I do like the convenience of not having to remember to carry the keys all the time. Paula

This is the company that I bought my conversion kit from for my Q1200. They provide a beautiful kit along with wonderful instructions. The include the Teflon pipe sealer for some connections. They allow you to order different kits for different hose lengths. https://propanegear.com/weber-q-grill-compatible-rv-quick-connect-kit-8-ft-hose/

David and I left NH Feb 16 intending to camp in the south-eastern and gulf states working our way over to Mississippi and then coming back on the Natchez Trace Parkway, attend the rally in Alabama, then slowly camp our way back to NH, arriving home in mid-June. Then the rally was postponed and campgrounds began closing. Several days ago we decided that ending our trip and heading home was the wiser thing to do. We reached NH yesterday afternoon, sad to have our first real trip cut so short but we had great fun and learned a lot about our Ollie (happy we had brought the manuals with us!). It is time to stay home to help protect as many people as possible. Hope you all are well and planning your next trip.

I love your graphics. Banana Banners did ours as well, thanks to Bob Hunt. They need to give him a commission every time he sends an Oliver owner to them! We picked up in September and just left NH in mid February. The Trace and the rally are in our plans so hope to see you. Paula

I stay signed in all the time and get new notifications with no problem. Paula

I bought the FT Knox and it works well and was less expensive. Either is a deterrent. David

I am also planning to play before the event too. It is a very nice course. David

Thanks, Bill

Thanks for the feedback, John

I don’t know? I hooked my truck up to the RV this AM when we had 4 inches of sticky snow on the panels and the Zamp confirmed we were charging at 13.5 volts. I cleared the panels and checked again before shutting off the Ram and we were seeing 14.x volts so I assume the solar was helping. The Ollie has been off grid for several days this week and we used about 20ah yesterday while we were in and out of it. The batteries are about 75 percent charged per the Zamp.

Paula and I have a 2019 Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7 with e-Torque generator option. I was going through some stuff and came across the brochure that reminded me that the generator and 48 volt Lithium battery has a 12kw capacity. We have the solar option on our LEII so we are thinking that most times we wouldn't need a separate generator/inverter very often and because payload is important in our truck, I am thinking we could just park the Ram close enough to plug in the trailer harness and recharge the Swallow's batteries if we should have a less optimal solar campsite or a period of bad weather. If I had to, I could rig an extension to the trailer harness too and that would allow some flexibility with the TV parking. The engine is just as quiet as our inverter. Can anyone see any holes in my idea? David

Andrew, we have the optional antenna, but I think checking to insure the cable connected is a good first step. I knew something was up with our radio reception, but until I got to an area where I was confident about the signal for a good FM station that still worked poorly. I didn't start checking the tuner itself. You probably should to that if you haven't traced the cable connection to the antenna already.

We initially had a problem with our radio on our new 2019 LEII. I used a inspection camera and confirmed that the antenna was never connected. I was able to inspect the back of the Jensen to find the right connector and our radio problem was resolved.

I made a bonded ground plug for my Honda. I was using the standard 20 amp plug to connect to a 30 amp outlet adapter on the Ollie. This worked fine, but I decided to purchase a Champion dual fuel generator to use when we need power. It has a TT-30 plug in addition to a 20 amp duplex outlet. I started it and plugged into the Oliver using the 30 amp option and it never powered up. I suspected that it was the same issue I had on the Honda but I had no error code on the Progressive surge protector remote all it said was “OFF” on the remote screen. I did my due diligence and followed troubleshooting steps suggested on this forum. I verified that I had power on the TT-30. I had 120 volts. I checked to see if the LED was lit on the Flurion power cable at the Oliver. I checked the Progressive remote monitor and it showed “OFF” on the display. I then plugged in the bonding plug on one of the 20 amp outlets and heard the transfer switch activate. I could have made this permanent bond of the neutral to ground under the front bezel, but I prefer to do it this way so as to not make any hidden changes. The Champion seems to be well made, but is twice the weight. It is 3400 watt surge or 3160 watt run. LP gives you a bit less than that. I believe it is 2790 watts.

I was able to build one of these quite easily. I had the end of a 12/2 cable that had a 3 pronged plug that worked perfectly. There was a discussion at the rally about doing this by someone who sat at the same table and it revolved around whether this is a good idea or not. The contention was that by doing this workaround it was somehow defeating a protection. The theory was if it was okay to do this, wouldn't Honda offer one. I didn't do the research when we came back from the rally, but did test that all worked well with my Honda i2000u inverter/generator.

Thanks, John for the feedback. I see your point about the outside connections not being able to be blown out with compressed air from the inside fittings.