GraniteStaters

Can you use the Zamp 30 amp controller with Lithium? We are a long way from replacing, but it is good to plan for the future.

JD, I appreciate your feedback. Safety is important. I will review the cable runs to insure they have the proper clearance before we head out on a 3 or 4 week trip early in October. I really appreciate the help that you and Overland provided. I used a fiberglass snake when I pulled the Solar controller negative cable back to the basement just in case I had to pull it back to the battery box and reconnect it if I had too. As soon as I hooked it to the bus bar the b01/601 disappeared. Until I cabled the bus bar to the chassis ground, the voltage measure dropped and I was alerted by the VictronConnect application. I finished the connection of the bus bar to the chassis ground screw and it immediately read correctly. When I powered on the main circuit breaker, I was so pleased to see all the draws as I cycled a few switches including the Xantrex inverter. I know we will find it so helpful to know how we are doing when we have campsites where we are relying only on Solar. Thanks again to both of you. I hope to meet you both someday.

Thanks, JD. Here is the detail of my initial try using a copy of the AGM 6V in the manual. As both you suggested I have pulled back the Solar controller cable and connected to the bus bar and completed the change over to the bus bar and grounding it at the chassis. All appears well and I receive the stats I was looking for from the VictronConnect software via Bluetooth on my iPhone, iPad, and my MacBook Pro. Thanks for all your help. I have attached a final picture of the bus bar and Smart Battery Shunt.

Gary & Esther, I am sure you will be very pleased with your LEII. Paula and I certainly are for Hull #509. You will find everyone on the forum very helpful. We may be camping in PA in just a few weeks as we work our way down from NY from NH. We have pretty much the same trailer. We do have the additional propane connections and the 30 amp convenience hookup. They don't make much of the 30 amp convenience hookup, but it is comes with a transfer switch to prevent using both hookups at the same time.

Overland, The Yellow wire I referenced was connected from the negative terminal on the battery and connected to the screw attached to the chassis. This wasn't connected on either end during my first attempt at migration to the bus bar. I haven't moved either the Solar port negative or the Solar controller negative. I don't know why either of those would cause the b01/601 error if they are still connected to the battery negative, but I agree that at least the Solar controller negative should be moved so that I can see the charging detail from the Solar controller. The Solar controller negative cable run to a block on the bed side of the pantry wall below our twin bed. Originally didn't see the Solar controller negative wire and I will need to either purchase for manufacture a cable to connect to my bus bar. BTW, the bus bar has been installed for a week and has been working as I would expect. This step is simply to move all negative flows to the bus bar and through the Victron Smart Battery Shunt. I will measure the distance today from the Solar controller block under the twin bed to the new bus bar and give it a second try today even if I have to use a temporary cable to see if it eliminates the b01/601 error. Even if I can't connect the Solar controller negative today, I will spend some time testing to see if I see the other negative flows through the Victron. I didn't take time to do this yesterday, so I should at least confirm the only issue I have is with the Solar controller.

I have attached a drawing that shows the wiring completed before failure of the Zamp Solar Controller b01/601 was observed. Hope this helps.Shunt wiring.docx

Will do

I ran into a problem today when I was doing final steps of the install of the Victron Smart Shunt. I disconnected the Yellow chassis ground cable at the battery and on the chassis ground bolt leaving it in case of any issues. I connected the new 4/0 gauge battery lug to the chassis ground bolt. The other end is attached to the bus bar. Unfortunately I didn't check the Zamp until after I flipped the breaker back on and when I did I was greeted with the b01 error code. I quickly flipped the breaker back to off and after a brief time thinking about what the problem might be, I reinstalled the original Yellow chassis ground cable on the battery. This eliminated the Zamp b01 error code. I then reviewed the wiring diagram for the 6 Volt AGM installation and see that the Solar ground wire and Solar Port ground wire are installed on the battery so I can't fathom why the b01 error code indicating that the Zamp doesn't see the battery circuit as complete. I have opened a Service Ticket with Oliver to see if they can answer a few of my questions about the wiring diagram for the 2019 AGM batteries and if they have any suggestions. Any thoughts from the more knowledgeable folks on this forum would be appreciated?

If you are talking about connecting the generator/inverter to your propane quick connect, then you really need a propane hose with 1/4 inch male QC fitting and the correct length of hose with the correct fitting for your generator/inverter. My Champion dual fuel uses a 1/4 inch male QC fitting too, so in my case I have a two ended hose with 1/4 inch male QC that I connect to a normal 1/4 inch QC hose that has the male and a female QC fitting. Naturally the length is determined by where you might want to have the generator/inverter or similar low pressure appliance to be located. In your case, if I have guessed your intent, a five foot hose would be sufficient to go from the basket to the QC propane installed on the tongue of the trailer.

Here is the bus bar on the table top before the install.

I am making some modifications in my Victron smart battery shunt. I originally installed it inline just before the Xantrex inverter, but because the other wiring returns to the negative post of the battery on the side mount, I wasn’t seeing the current usage and missing the complete Victron picture. I needed a bus bar to connect to the main ground bar to see this draw. I purchased a Blue Sea 4 port bus bar and installed on PVC that I epoxied to the inside of the pantry fiberglass wall in the basement. I ran two additional 1/0 gauge battery cables with the appropriate lugs, one from the bus bar to the load side of the shunt and the other from the bus bar to the negative side of the inverter. The battery side of the shunt is connected to the 1/0 cable that originally connected to the negative of the Xantrex. I have now ordered the cable with lugs to connect the main ground bar to the new bus bar and will connect it to the chassis ground after removing the cable that connects to the side mount of the battery. I will leave the original cable in place, disconnected, labeled and secured I should see all flow at that point I will attach some pictures after the install is completed l

The valve I was referring to is the bypass/isolate valve to remove the water source.

We had an error on our Truma this AM after changing it from ECO mode to COMFORT mode. The remote was flashing. I checked the external LED and confirmed the message to be the Truma circulation pump not having sufficient water, no prime. We are using our fresh water tank at this campground. It didn’t take long to realize that after I had sanitized the fresh tank, which requires bypassing the Truma, that I hadn’t turned it back on. We hadn’t used any hot water since arriving so hadn’t noticed. We turned the valve to inline and heard the water fill the Truma, but shortly after cycling the outside and remote switches we still flashed in COMFORT mode. I was puzzled for a bit, but the error was the same sssllsll indicating the Truma circulation pump had insufficient water aka prime. I then bled the kitchen hot faucet and had spurts of air and then steady flow. I recycled the outside and remote switches and we were back in business. I believe the Truma didn’t flash in ECO mode because there was water in the unit.

Check the power cord behind the drawers below the sink. You will need to remove luan backing and will see the outlet and the plug. If you find the plug loose then I would zip tie the outlet.

This is the unit I purchased and plan to install too.

We have used the Wi-Fi ranger with campground Wi-Fi and with a Verizon Tether and also enabled failover too. It is a pretty impressive setup. I have had issues with disconnections because the iPhone needs us to "Trust" the connection. Recovery is to reconnect through the Wi-Fi Ranger GUI. I would order the Wi-Fi again. I believe the WeBoost is a no brainer, but because we have camped in some campgrounds in the NH White Mountains and the VT Green Mountains that have limited cell signal, I ordered an antenna from Wilson with more gain. I haven't replaced the antenna that came with the unit yet, but I have attached the new antenna and strung the antenna wire through the dinette window and placed it in the same location on the roof. At times it seems to give me an additional bar and other times it doesn't. I did the advanced iPhone "hack" to see how the iPhone sees the connection and it appears to have a better empirical signal. As Wilson says on their YouTube channel, there is benefit in the WeBoost even if you don't get the visible extra bar. Rerunning the cable will be a pain because I will need to attach a pull string to the end of the existing cable in order to pull back the new cable from the antenna. I haven't decided yet whether it is worth it to do this yet.

John, we have the same issue you do in reverse and haven’t been able to go to our summer home in PEI. I suspect the border will be open just before you travel to TN as way to encourage tourism to Canada next year. Maybe there is an option for quarantine to allow this necessary or essential trip. Good luck. David

Fritz, I am 6’3” and have no problems sleeping in the curbside twin. I haven’t tried the street side as my wife sleeps there. I have tried in both directions and prefer the head to the rear especially since our 40lbs dog spends about 40 percent of the nights on my side.

I had a problem with the gasket on the bathroom fan too. When I removed the cover I observed that the adhesive tape had separated from the flimsy gasket. I went to HD and purchased a larger and denser foam and cut it using the original gasket as my measure. I decided to attach to the bottom and not the top and simply left about 1/8-1/4inch of the foam above the ridge. I pressed the adhesive portion of the foam against the inside circumference of the fan. It seems to work. I have enough foam to do this several more times and will probably cut the foam to adjust around the flanges on the top cover to get a better fit on version 1.01.

John, I see that David didn't completely reply to you. I emptied ours and flipped it over to find that the model is CR800/CR830. It doesn't fit on the pantry shelf. You could store it on the bottom shelf if you cleared out other stuff and tipped the pitched to get it in, then there is room for it to stand upright, but to me, that would be a pain in the neck every time we moved, emptying out part of the pantry, then putting stuff back in. So far we've been leaving it on the kitchen counter when camped, emptying it and storing it in a dish tub in the sink when moving. The only problem has come when I forgot to grab it out of our fridge at home one trip! Paula

Thanks, John

John, we like the Pur too and use it at home, but your version must be the 7 Cup version. Can you confirm? David

Welcome! We have #509 and are loving it! Paula

Thanks John, David is going to remove the fuses. Paula

Feedback about Tuson TPMS after several months and it is all good. After installing the repeater inside the Ollie, I haven’t had any issues with receiving the signals from the transmitters. They all start transmitting after the trailer starts moving, but they come online at different time which can be disconcerting. I would definitely install again. Downside of the install is we don’t have nitrogen in the tires or at least 100 percent nitrogen.