Ollie-Haus

Leave it to a mom to get your attention with properly timed "colorful" language! 🤣

Love it @ScubaRx. When it comes to fabrication, there's always a solution.

Thanks @rich.dev for the attached links. As was mentioned above, I also would advise against mounting a tray or box by the 1.25" receiver. There's a lot of dynamic load with an extended cargo tray, or bike rack for that matter. The single point Oliver hitch allows a lot of movement side to side and up and down. The two point mount used by those of us that installed boxes or trays inherently provides a high level of stability as well as a direct mount to the trailer main frame rails. Also the 2" sockets at those locations allow you to use a heavy wall 2" square tube which substantially increases the strength of those connections. Even mounted by the 2" tubes, you still use the hitch pins Oliver used to secure the bike rack mounting frame. This still allows the tray or box to be quickly removed for installing a bike rack or service needs. All this having been said, I still believe you should limit the total weight mounted to the back to the maximum that Oliver recommends. The tray or box mounted doesn't extend much farther from the bumper than a double bike rack would, so the loads should be somewhat similar to those exerted by two bikes mounted on the Oliver mount. But again the cargo box is mounted directly with two points that are extremely stable and secure. Just my thoughts. Edit: Additional thoughts. Regardless of your method of mounting a cargo box, clearance for the lid to open without hitting the spare tire cover must be considered. Also if you make the mounting tubes extend far enough into the frame sockets, you will be able to slide the box back far enough to remove the spare tire without completely removing the box from the trailer. This was very important to me because complete removal requires two people and sliding it back enough for tire access can be done by one person.

Hi Joe, At this time the best approach is to contact Oliver customer service and they will direct you the best route forward. For a dealer list, go to the Oliver home page, click on the shopping tools tab at the top of the page, then click on the gold "Find a Dealer Nearby" button on the upper left of the page.

Never had any doubts, but thanks for the update and reassurance!

Get over yourself "engineer". Your condescending intros always prefacing with your "credentials" that make you smarter than the rest are overbearing. I'm no engineer and this is all very elementary to me. And I think the large majority are taking it all in stride. There's probably well over a thousand who have not chimed in on the topic because they are level headed folks that are just rolling with the process, or just don't care. The sky's not falling and the Oliver managers are still running the company with the same integrity they always have. What's up in the air right now is the character and integrity of a few people that are throwing a hissy fit cause they aren't getting their way. Oliver management could choose to fold the company and cash it all in, and they would still be within their rights to do so. Either way I would still shake their hands and thank them for making me one of the best campers ever built.

............ and all of that was stated in Jason's message to the owners. I must be missing something. "Our customer support team will still be available to assist with any questions and work with you and our dealer partners to get any services you need resolved." "However, we will continue doing major repairs, including fiberglass and aluminum, at our Plant Facility." "If you have any questions or require further information regarding this update, please do not hesitate to contact us or call us at 1-888-526-3978. We are always here to assist you."

The day after we accepted an offer on our house a couple years ago, the neighbor was sitting in his car on his phone when he arrived home about 2 am. A car pulled into our driveway that was parallel to theirs about 20 feet away with a hedge in between. He could hear a couple arguing in our driveway about moving into the house since it was empty. We wouldn't be closing for two weeks and were still moving items out when this happened. I suspect the perps were able to tell the status of the house via Zillo information on line. The people in the driveway that night had foreign accents. Between the neighbors and myself we had to maintain a vigil and I slept in the house until the buyers could take possession at closing. This has been very much on the rise in the Indianapolis area.

The supply line is fitted with a "T" fitting and feeds each accumulator equally. The discharge from each accumulator connects to the system with the same "T" configuration. Thus each accumulator is supplying equal amount of pressurized water. You now have twice as much water available under pressure from the two accumulators operating equally at the same rate. This of course is limited to the total flow capacity of the water lines supplying and receiving, and both accumulators must be operating equally. With two accumulators connected in series, the one closest to the demand starts depleting and the second one is only trying to recharge the first one rather than supplying additional water flow to the open tap. It's kind of like several people standing next to each other and trying to pass objects to each other in a chain and filling a box with widgets. If the four people would just individually transfer the items they could from the one container to the other, the rate of transfer would be much faster than if each person has to handle every item being transferred. Edit: One other thing is the space is very limited so configuring the parallel connection would be the biggest challenge. On the other hand, what's wrong with the pump coming on when the faucet is opened? What's the difference between 5 seconds till pump kicks on compared to 10 seconds? You have used no extra water in the process and the electrical usage is negligible. Complicating a system for nearly zero gain is kind of pointless.

You have them connected in series. They will actually "fight" each other in this configuration and this would actually reduce the effectiveness of the system. They would have to be connected parallel to have a beneficial effect.

Jason, I’ve attached a video only for audio purposes, it was recorded in pitch darkness near the lake at the rally last year. You’ll need to crank up the volume. Early morning and late evening walks in the park are very pleasant. Hope you can make it to the rally. IMG_5665.mov

Just sent off an email to Alcan Spring for information for a set of 4 springs for our LE2. I would like to be proactive in replacing the springs in my driveway rather than on the side of the highway. Plus I am a real big fan of supporting American manufacturing companies.

Keep in mind that four wheel alignment becomes a periodic maintenance requirement with independent suspension. There's always trade offs so depending on your style of camping. Also there are a lot of other possible fail points with that system. It's a very complex system. I wander what the cost of a conversion would be? Edit: PS - The beauty of the current suspension is you can pick up replacement parts rather cheap, albeit not lifetime quality, at any local farm store and be back on the road in hours. The high end suspension would likely require sourcing parts long distance that would have at least a few days lead time. I think I would be hard pressed to consider this type of upgrade.

Willie is a beauty and also a lucky kitty. Thanks for posting and also, Welcome to the forum! 👍

I just ordered a set of these a couple days ago for Ollie-Haus. Our hinges are the new style of course so install should be quick and painless. We've experienced the wind catching the door and quickly realized we needed the extra level of "assist" for protecting the door assembly.

There’s quite a few being loaded out for dealers each week. I read somewhere, maybe Facebook, that the first LE2 arrived at the new dealership in Petersburg Indiana the other day and was sold in 24 hours!🤩

Regarding the wet bath/dry bath perspective, we quickly came to the same conclusion as others have. And It's the first thing I bring up when someone says, "I won't have a wet bath". I point out that I don't camp out in the bath, or use it for a library. Ninety-nine percent of our day is spent someplace other than the bathroom. The fact that it's called a wet bath really doesn't change much about the way I use it compared to a similar dry bath. For us it was a non-conversation, just something to be aware of. On the note of how much RV real estate is valued at, I think Oliver knocked it out of the park with how efficiently they met all the needs in such a compact camper. Like someone pointed out, everything has trade-offs, and I think the design of the Oliver campers makes the most gain possible for the trade-offs they chose to work with.

Welcome! You may be like us last year. We picked up #1373 five days before the start of the rally.

I just ran across and decided to follow a web site that's been ongoing for 23 years according to the introduction. It has a wealth of information about everything RV. Numerous articles are posted each week by actual RVers about every topic that's relevant. My reason for posting this here is because the first search I did was simply for "Oliver" and found that four articles they've posted over the past few years popped up. Thought it was worth sharing. https://www.rvtravel.com/?s=Oliver

Additional Info for Hull 1373: Ford CC King Ranch F350 2021 4WD Gas 7.3 4.30 Tremor Fiberglass shell LEII 1373

The Natures head sits right on the black tank so the mod should be pretty straight forward. I could see making this change down the road. At the same time, emptying the urine jug in the local toilet is about as easy as it gets. I have considered getting a second jug and cap for those occasions where emptying isn't immediately possible.

This can also be the case with the Lithionics battery Bluetooth connection and their app. There's suppose to be a safety built into the batteries that once they have been connected to a phone via the app, they cannot be connected to another phone without deleting. I don't know if the batteries are even visible to another phone once they are connected to yours, but regardless setting your own password for that Bluetooth connection would be a wise step to take. Now that I think of it, I may do some experimenting to see if a different phone will indicate the presents of the Lithionics batteries when I pull up the app. Even though the batteries may not be able to be connected to the phone, it would be an easy way for a thief to target a camper for stealing the batteries if they are able to use the app to pinpoint campers that have these batteries. Geesh this all makes my head heart. 🙄

I think your plan is very sound. On the other hand I tried a similar metal box from some other product and it was only marginally effective. If you got right up against the door handle the touch door locks would still unlock. Also even though the fob was in the box, with the box sitting on the console arm rest the truck still started. On the other hand the pouches I got from Amazon are nearly a year old and the truck still will not respond in any way with the fob in the closed pouch regardless of where you put the pouch in the truck, including placing the pouch with the fob right in the tray of the console near the receiver. The fob rolled up in a few layers of aluminum foil is just as effective. I think every item on Amazon has at least a small percentage of negative reviews, no matter how good the product is. As long as an item rates 4 stars or better I pretty much disregard the negative reviews as spurious, or even the competition planting the negative reviews in hopes of bolstering their competing products. Whichever method works to your satisfaction, I think it's well worth the trouble for the added security and peace of mind considering the cost of vehicles and even the difficulty of replacing one these days. I just edited my previous post and added the Amazon link to the pouches I bought. I'm pleased with the overall performance of this pouch to date.

This video was also part of my research that convinced be to also use faraday pouches for our key fobs. Interestingly, rolling a fob up in a piece of aluminum foil is very effective as well in a pinch. Our spare fobs are stored in a metal safe that is very effective in that application. Until I discovered this topic, I had no idea a person with a scanner could walk past you in a parking lot, steal your fob's radio codes and than drive off with your vehicle as soon as you are out of sight. Amazing! Edit - The pouches I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KVWTYZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

One other item that's easy to implement. Have a local engraver make a VIN plate from stainless or brass with your trailer VIN engraved on it. Install it with a couple pop rivets on the inside of the frame rail under the trailer right below where the VIN sticker is applied by the factory. If a thief peals the VIN sticker off, you still have solid identification you can us on a police report. This was recommended to me when I had my camper inspected by Indiana State Police for title transfer purposes when we brought it home. If you have a set of number stamps, you could stamp the number into the frame in that location yourself. Very inconspicuous to say the least.