taylor.coyote

Scuba, found the fuses in-line as you had said about older trailers. Replaced the fuse and still no go. I'll start tracing the connections from the toggle switch back. I have a replacement switch on board. Hopefully a simple task. I'll let you know.

Lots written about the furnace but everyone seems generally satified with its ability to warn the cabin living space. We have been in the Anza Borrego area (45-night / 75-day) and headed for colder weather. Even with modified ducting (hard elbows at furnace, hard straight runs passing through the water valve area and cutting 3.5' off in the bath vanity) our heater works hard to get the cabin temperature above 65 degree (starting at 55 degrees inside). We find 65 comfortable but concerned about heating when it's 25 degrees outside. Is this normal? please share your heating experience.

Our Experience with the Starlink Mini is the same as Ronbrink. We traveled for many years with an ATT NetGear portable cellular hub but have repalced the NetGear with Starlink. We spend a good part of time off the grid and Starlink provides service everywhere except when you have abstructions such as trees between you and the satellite. The ATT NetGear is great device, it's portable, simple and easy to use. If we didn't spend time off the grid, we would likely stay with the ATT NetGear hub. With an ATT business account our NetGear plan was $65 monthly (+ buying it over time as with cell phones) with unlimited data use.

No tv at all in our OLEll. We have Starlink for communication and can get tv content on our laptops if desired.

900 miles on new Alcan springs, Dexter E-Z Flex Suspension Kit (K71-653-00), 5,000 lbs axles at 55lbs tire pressure. My trailer content is shifting like never before (especially pots and pans). Don't know if trailer is sprung stiffer or the really poor California freeways, Highway 71 and 15 getting around LA had big compressions and peaks. Anyone running the Alcan spring kits having the same experience?

thank you scuba. We are down for the count for the night. Hopefully they will be obvious in the morning.

In addition to having a quality trailer, you have joined an amazing group of people (Oliver forum). I continue to be amazed at the collective knowledge that this group is willing to share. Best of luck with you Oliver.

Mossemi, the electrical bus for the connections is located next to the master power shut off under the street side bed. This said the bus has nothing connected. Any other suggestions where I can find the fuses for the nose and rear jacks?

Thanks for the additional coaching. The good news: the jack is stuck in the up position / no manual cranking needed. Mossemi, thanks for the location/pics of the jack fuses. I'll think good thoughts and hope its just the fuse.

thanks for the tips about the fuses. don't understand where to find the jack fuses. Are you directing me to the master fuse box under the dinette? or are directing me to dig around under the street side rear bed.. and did you say both right and left rear jack fuses are located together under the bed? please clarify will also check the connections

big tex, you have likely saved me from head slapping and turning the sprayer into an ice cube

Just pull in to camp and the rear drive side jack will not got down. I'm assuming it's electrical at the toggle. This is likely associated with removing the entire propane compartment from the trailer a couple weeks ago to spray with vortex for rock protection. My knowlege of electricity is minimal although I do have a circuit tester in my tool kit. Can anyone tell me where to source the double toggle switch box for the rear Jacks or chime on how to go about isolating the power failure.

Thanks for sharing. I would agree many variables will be in play. Rivernerd, how do you pull the outside faucet inside? Your trailer is much newer (about 1,000 trailers after mine), maybe you have different plumbing. I have seen where people layer in additional insulation between the hatch door and the outdoor faucet. In general, our experiences is as you have described. Our Oliver can handle a few hours of below-freezing temperatures each night, provided you heat the interior and monitor the driver's side hull. I was a hardcore winter camper in my youth but we will head for the barn if the temp is a hard freeze day and night

We are planning to spend time at elevations in New Mexico that could range from lows of 20 +/- degrees at night and 40's to mid 50's in the day time. We will be boon-docking and running the heat 45-50 ish at night. We have camped with temperatures in the mid teens for a night or two but never consecutive days running . My question: should we be concerned about winterizing the water system when the temperatures are freezing at night and well above freezing during the day?

I replaced mine a number of years ago. Don't recall my source. You should search for marine stainless steel quick release pins. You will find a variety of lengths and diameters with and without leashes. The marine grade are spendy but they will not corrode.