Replaced 7.5 year old Michelin's with Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT225/75R16 a year ago. Have run about 9,000 miles inflated at 45psi. Have had a few sets of Cooper AT3 on the f250 and my former Tundra. All been great tires.

wow, thanks for all the conversation regarding "sagging crossbeams". We have been off the grid and it's raining. I will get some images of the under-side of my frame posted and count the crossbeams when I'm in a dry clean place get on the ground. I discovered the beams were sagging when I was making a drilling template for installing a mid-trailer mud-flap per John Davies design. I clamped my drilling template (1" wide flat bar of aluminum) to the crossbeam in front of the axle and it clearly was sagging..

I'm coming very late to this party but posting because we broke a spring January last year on hull #124. We ran our tires hard for a long time and do a lot of off road driving. We replaced both springs on the axle with the damaged spring. This information about all the bad springs mades me uneasy because we are headed for an extended trip with lots of off road driving this week. We now run tires at 45psi and will check the springs each day. Will replace all when we return home. Grateful to all for sharing this information.

Bent / sagging crossbeams I have a related issue with some frame crossbeams. I have four and maybe more crossbeams that are sagging (have a belly in the middle). When putting a straight piece of bar stock across the bottom of the trailer's crossbeams, you can see about one inch +/- bow / belly in these crossbeams. Interesting that the beams that are bent are located in the front 1/3 of the trailer ( behind the bathroom and in front of the axles) and the back 1/3 (behind the axles and in front of for the cabinet between the twin beds. The bent crossbars have no apparent other damage other than the belly. I am a big guy, regardless these beams should not be bent. Does anyone have knowledge or experience with bent crossbeams?

I'm interested in what you learn and your process/cost setting up DC to DC charging. I have spoken with AM Solar located in Springfield, Or about DC to DC charging for my 2019 f250/Oliver. They seem to be experts in RV solar applications and DC to DC charging. You might want to speak with them. They were very open to share information but required setting up a phone meeting a week or more in advance. They quoted in the range of $4,000 to pull 2AWG wire through my truck / trailer to support DC to DC charging. The cost slowed me down and I put DC to DC charging on the back burner for now. I would appreciate if you would share your set up and installation process.

f250 comes in various sizes from The 2023 Ford Super Duty F-250 length ranges from 231.8 inches , 246 and 266.2 inches or 19.25 ft, 20.5 and 22.18 ft. with the height 78-82" . Payload will meet or exceed your needes...Fit will be very close but some configurations may meet your needs..

We spend most of our time off the grid boondocking. In addition to a full freshwater tank in the trailer, We have a custom 30 gal tank in the back of our truck. The spare tank in the truck has an open/close value with standard a standard hose fitting, fitted with quick release hardware. The truck tank also has a "breather vent" that allows water to flow out without creating a vacuum. We run a standard 25' water hose from the back of the truck water tank to the Boondock trailer port / passenger side rear port (use quick release hardware without check valves on both ends of hose (trailer and truck tank) for quick/easy setup. We open the truck tank valve and set the trailer water pump valves inside the trailer to draw water from the boondock intake port. Next, we turn on the trailer pump and it fills the trailer fresh water tank in a few minutes. When full, we turn off the trailer pump, close the valve on the truck tank, discount the quick release connectors, put the Q/R travel cap on the trailer and truck tank Q/R valves. Next we drain any water left in the hose (able to this because the Q/R ends do not have check valves). Then we wind the hose and snap the two hose end Q/R together sealing the hose from contaminates. This method of transferring water to the trailer fresh water tank is simple and does not require having your extra tank above the trailer to gravity feed. We can have the truck in any position with the trailer while still hooked up to the truck. Another tip: We generally take outdoor showers from the outside water port to keep from overfilling the gray-water tank.

Out and about boondocking remote parts of NW Nevada, SE Oregon, NE Cal.. Bog hotsprings Nevada, Alvord Desert Oregon, Medicine Lake Ca, Malheur Refuge Oregon, Sheldon Refuge Navada

Thanks for the help. Ollie got new boots. Put on new Cooper HT3's and still have a substandard spare. Don't want to mount License plate and plate light on the back of the trailer to mount an uncovered full size tire.

Thanks for sharing what you know on this subject. In my case, my spare that came from the factory is a 16" tire but more narrow and slightly lower profile ratio. As I stated before, my tire guy say the 215 70 16 size tire is not really running On an LEII. A few companies make a C rated tire (max load rating of 1,875 LBS). I will follow up on your recommendation regarding John Davies mounting a full size tire without the tire cover. This will require a way to mouth the license plate and the plate light.

I have hull number 124 produced in 2016. The spare tire size is 215 70 16. Apparently this tire size only comes as a 4 ply with a max weight limit of 750 lbs. This tire is pretty much is maxed out with a loaded LE II. The question: Will a full sized 225 75 16 trailer tire fit inside the fiberglass spare tire cover?

https://trailerlegs.com/

Does anyone clean the trailer with clay after washing and before applying wax?

The factory replied. They said the closet has a frame cross beam under the closet and putting 165-lbs in the bottom of the closet is ok. They did caution to be mindful of the additional tongue weight.