Corvus

Yikes, sorry to hear that. I can't check mine at the moment but the photo I took shows the holes are oversized. It also looks like my bracket may have shifted which may be the issue. I'll look into this closer first so thanks for posting this information. Edit: Oh rats! John just pointed out this is a photo of my street side bracket, the creaking is on the curb side. I'll leave it since it does give an idea of how large the hole is.

Our LEII started creaking and popping loudly during our second trip. But it sounds different than yours, at least on video. It happens walking around inside the trailer, moving in bed and using the steps. I used a stethoscope to isolate the source of the creaking to the street side stabilizer. I think ours is rubbing against the hull near the wheel and the hull resonates the sound like a speaker box. Although the caulk prevents being able to seeing this the creaking stopped after loosening the bolts on the frame. First I tried putting the stabilizers down which reduced the creaking when moving inside the trailer, not when using the steps. Next I loosened the bolts that's holding the support ring to the trailer then tightened down the bolts in different orders then test. Several iterations of this stopped the creaking while static. The creaking returned the next time I towed the trailer. I've been able to manage the creaking while parked by running the stabilizers down to the ground then alternating them a little at a time until the popping stops. Fortunately this happens well before the wheels clear the ground. I also place a scissors jack under the steps which drastically reducing rocking of the trailer. This usually takes some tweaking at times, but I've been able to get it stable for days. I was hoping to get this resolved at Oliver, but a cascade of events has prevented this from happening. Now I'm considering shaving off some of the fiberglass that is against the support myself someday. Any recommendations for a caulking to use for this area? creaking-inside.mp4 creaking-manual.mp4 creaking-using-steps.mp4

Pretty sure they are stainless steel. I've been considering buying some stainless steel quick connects like these. A bit pricey, but maybe worth it in the long run.

The popping of the AC in my case was because the straight edges of the AC diffuser are forced to take the contour of the rounded ceiling inside the trailer. Lately I have been running the AC a lot and can now say I was able to eliminate this popping by adding felt along the dffuser edge and gently snug down the diffuser. The details are posted in this thread.

I replaced our three interior courtesy lights with red ones. There is no white light leaking around the cover like with the colored films. They're almost a drop in replacement, the smaller screws that come with the red lights work better because there is a small difference in the spacing. It helps a lot to preserve night vision and navigating without waking others. When I went to replace the exterior courtesy lights I found they are riveted so I used this red film for astronomy events. I've also used this amber film on the upper exterior lights to reduce the brightness and attract fewer insects. The Lamin-X film is thicker and darker and more durable then others I've tried. I'll post photos when I find them.

This is good news for this lifelong insomniac. Using bits of masking tape is getting old and tacky. Studies may support this desire to sleep in the total dark. In my forays into astronomy I read that research suggest that the human eye can detect as less than ten photos. What the brain does with that is another matter. I've also explored dimmer switches for the lights, with no conclusion. A new topic on this would be welcomed.

What you describe is similar to what happens when the pump is running then the faucet is turned off. A pressure switch senses the buildup of pressure and turns off the pump. So maybe the water flow gets restricted enough that the pressure switches off the pump. I've seen very slow trickles that did not switch off the pump but maybe it's possible. What happens with the bathroom faucet? These are the first things I would look into. Drain some water from the tank into a clean white bucket to see if any algae type of growth flows from the tank. It could clog the filter, faucets, lines, etc. Check the water valve settings near the pump. I doubt this is the issue but it is a good practice to check them when problems with the water system occur. Check the water strainer near the pump. Plastic shavings and other debris can collect there and impede the flow. Take the aerator off the faucet to see if there is any debris that could block the flow. If there is a lot of debris in the system you may need to disconnect some lines to flush it out. If you can rule out a blockage by debris then the issue may be with the pump itself.

I've struggled with mine a few times too and found that raising the bottom of the bucket and lines above the inlet, as if you were going to siphon into the trailer, helps a lot.

Just a heads up that there will be a total lunar eclipse giving most of North America a good show this weekend.

If you want to tinker there are several models to choose from. (The chart uses an underscore in place of the letter B.) I was considering trying one with greater CFM and pressure to see how they perform on those soggy days. Obviously Natures Head uses the lowest watt and noise level model. For example Model M can be purchased online.

Searched for torque values based on the assumption the rims are LionsHead brand and found a couple of responses on eTrailer that suggest the torque values Oliver uses may be the rim manufacturers recommendation. I suspect my rims are LionsHead, but I haven't confirmed that with Oliver. https://www.etrailer.com/question-558830.html https://www.etrailer.com/question-471670.html

Eggcellent name!

I was considering replacing mine too after finding three cracked on the same wheel while repacking my bearings. I replaced them with clad for the time being. Is there a down side to using the solid lug nuts on these rims? I was considering the stainless steel ones.

I forgot to mention that our tube had lots of condensation which is what encouraged me to start taking things apart.

Most of the time our Natures Head has worked well. When the weather was very humid for days and the inside of the trailer was dank, the solids were not drying well. I purchased a dehumidifier and that seems to have helped. We run the dehumidifier as much as possible in the bathroom when the humidity goes above 80%. We also turn the crank more often during the day to help expose any moist areas. The issue may have been compounded by too much coir dust on the fan filter. When I took the fan assembly apart the filter was about 75% clogged. Perhaps the coir was not moist enough and the dust was pulled through by the fan when turning the crank or when I added extra through the top. If adding more from the top I now make sure to unplug the fan, mix, then wait for any dust to settle before plugging in the fan. I'm also leaning toward using sphagnum or coffee grounds to reduce the dust. Here are some photos of the fan assembly. No fuse here. I forgot to take a photo of the dirty filter before cleaning it, but one shows the dust on the fan. I'm tempted to add one of these fans to the spare parts kit. Cleaned filter Hope you get it figured out soon. Dirty fan Whole assembly

That was my thought too. I rarely used the city water connection so I assume the leak was so slow that I didn't notice. Probably because we habitually turn off the pump when it is not being used. Just in case there is a leak.

This is something I was considering, but I was concerned about exposing more plywood layers for water to seep into. If you do this please post a how-to so the rest of us can do it properly.

This is a major implementation flaw. Instead of the water running down to the basement and out the scuppers, where it may be detected, it flows down the retractable water line to pool in the bottom of the wood cabinet then rot and fester. The stench from mine was unbearable, lots of ammonia. Ruined a lot of things in the drawers by nurturing rampant mold colonies and shortened the life of the drawers. If the weight is pushed behind the cabinet the weight will not work properly, bangs into, and has the potential to drip water into the 120v receptacle. Now the very few pieces of wood in the trailer are compromised by this inability to understand basic physics combined with using substandard parts. The only support from Oliver for this was what faucet was used in our trailer.

I highly recommend that everyone pull drawers and check this area early and add it to your routine check list. I discovered ours had started leaking at the latest four months after taking possession and suspect it was leaking on delivery day. The source of this leak was the faucet where the water lines screw into the the base at the handle. I replaced it with a household Dura faucet.

Something similar happened to me recently. Check the four valves near the water pump. In my 2019 there is a diagram on the inside of the fiberglass cover over this area that shows Normal and Boondocking valve configurations. In my case while de-winterizing the pressure was low at the faucets and water was flowing into the tank. Checking the diagram I found that one valve was wrong for the Normal Valve Configuration. After setting the valve correctly things were back to normal. Hope yours is a simple valve configuration issue too.

I like the Mopeka sensors. You can get readings on a mobile device or a unit they sell to install inside the trailer.

Trilobite! Very Old. Have wanted to "discover" one for many decades along with other gems and artifacts.

Yes, I bought a longer one like linked above and a holder that uses a suction cup to attach to the hull. You have to remove the existing hose and attach the new hose to the back of the valve panel in the basement. Had to use some Teflon tape because the threads were not a good match. This thread has a photo of the connection and other useful information.

Pull out the lowest drawer under the sink and check to see if water has collected under the drawer. If the faucet leaks the water may run down the pull out sprayer line and collect on the wood panel under the drawer. The pull out sprayer line on mine is routed through the opening at the back of the drawers so the water did not run into the basement where it could leak out the scuppers. The wood started to macerate and caused a nasty stench, laced with ammonia on hot days. Hopefully this is not the source of the bad odor because it was a mess.

Something else you may want to do is replace the Zamp port screws with pan head #6-1/2" stainless steel screws. Mine rusted and were starting to leave orange rust stains on the hull.