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Everything posted by SeaDawg
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BoB, please don't be a stranger around here. I suspect someday you'll be back in an Ollie. In the meantime, we'll enjoy hearing about your adventures.
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A quick Google search brought up a number of complaints across several brands of trailers with a similar problem. Replacing a poor ground, or a firmware update from Furrion for certain models, resolved the issue for many people. Have you contacted Furrion customer service? https://www.etrailer.com/question-430346.html And, welcome to the forum. Congratulations on your new Oliver.
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Oliver Elite III (reimagined) .... "Middle-age Spread"
SeaDawg replied to Flat world's topic in General Discussion
There's always going to be the engineering issue of the wheel wells, and front/back weight balance. The Oliver, with its double hull, can't really be set flat and high above, imo, like a lot of sunblock stickies. That creates a bit of a conundrum with a walk around queen, I guess,, unless it's located forward, like airstream does it, in that size range. (Which I dislike, but I understand the "why." I'll be interested in seeing what Oliver comes up with,, if/when a larger trailer is designed. In the meantime, these many threads should give them input on what potential buyers feel is important. I'll probably still stick with my 2008. It's likely to be roadworthy for decades to come, long past my desire to travel and camp. -
Oliver Elite III (reimagined) .... "Middle-age Spread"
SeaDawg replied to Flat world's topic in General Discussion
I would, too. -
Oliver Elite III (reimagined) .... "Middle-age Spread"
SeaDawg replied to Flat world's topic in General Discussion
You've obviously put much thought into this, @Flat world. thanks for the ideas. How does the shower open to create a dry bath? I think I'd want the floor to ceiling areas closer to the front, so the light can bounce around, and longer diagonal sight lines. Our Elite is really small, by many people's standards, but the open interior and light bounced from mirrored doors and the windows keeps me happy. I'm a bit claustrophobic, but the present Ollie interior never makes me jittery, like some other even larger rvs. -
We had a gullywasher the other night, and I found a tiny spot of water on the dog's seat, the rear small dinette. Shame on me. I thoroughly cleaned the weeps this spring, and haven't touched or cleaned them since. Sure enough, leaf bits and seeds had blocked a few of the drains in the track, and the weeps. I cleaned them out as best as I could with an old toothbrush and a twist tie. We had another downpour last night, and all was good. Life in the woods is wonderful again.
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Ok. Some people never use gas. At this point, I too would wait for your grandson. It's likely either the fuse, or the fridge is unplugged inside the cabinet. So sorry about your knee.
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It's been awhile since I had a dometic, but I don't remember auto and dc ever being lit at the same time. And you're not dumb, Nan. Just inexperienced with the intricacies of rv fridges . I'll try to look up the manual.
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If the button that reads ac on top and dc on the bottom is selected, the fridge will go to dc if it doesn't have 110 available.
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The fridge runs on 12 volt, from the battery, so the lights come on from the 12v. It will only run on 110 if you have 110 available. Running on dc is ok since you have 110 charging your battery, but not ok if you're just unplugged, or, for most people towing. Have you ever run the fridge on gas? Is your propane turned on? Did you try lighting the stove burner? It can take a couple tries to get the fridge to light off, since it's been sitting awhile.
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If fuses look good, take a couple screwdrivers and an inspection mirror and flashlight with you so he can check that the fridge is plugged in.
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No. It's not. Can you toggle the switches to propane, and cool it down that way til you get the 110 situation figured out? Our dometic never autoswitched to dc. That had to be set manually. The Norcold fridge will auto select dc if neither propane nor 110 are available. If you decide to run the fridge on propane, light the big stove burner for 20 or 30 seconds to make sure you have propane in the line. This will help eliminate air in the line to the fridge. The fridge burner is very small, and much more sensitive to air in the line than the stove is .
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Does anything else 110, like an outlet or microwave, or ac, work? Then your transfer switch kicked over fine. A couple of possibilities. If your transfer switch didn't kick in, (you don'thave 110 at outlets and ac), usually, if you unplug from the house, and plug it back in, you'll hear the microwave beep, and the transfer switch has kicked in. Or, your fridge could be unplugged from 110. This is a bit difficult to reach, so you might want to ask your grandson to come over and check that. It involves removing the bottom drawer, and a plywood panel between the fridge and the sink cabinet. Could be a fuse or breaker, which is easier to check than the fridge. But, I don't think I've ever heard of that happening before.
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That's unfortunate. I didn't know barefoot was around in 2008. I thought the just started production in the UK less than ten years ago. Is their door on the driver side, @Ray and Susan Huff
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The Barefoot is a real cutie, and might be a contender, especially for a solo camper. It's even more compact than our small Elite, and requires setting up the bed from the bed daily, or eating outside, but the back cushion "might be" big enough for a solo bunk. Very little storage, but a pretty little trailer, and the bath is decent sized for a marine bath in a tiny trailer. Looking forward to seeing one in person. Maybe next year at the rv supershow in Tampa?
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There is at least one Oliver in Alaska, full time. You might try private messaging @AW1985. He was based in Fairbanks in his last post, but camped often in Cantwell and Valdez, both a reasonable (by Alaska standards) drive from Anchorage.
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It gets better every time, Nan . Just patience. Everything takes time, and remembering the protocols. Good luck. Keep us posted. Wishing you a very fun time camping.
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The chrome belly band trim is cosmetic.
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I would suspect the fuse, or the eyebrow control board. If the fuse checks ok, try holding the on button in . In our old Dometic, the contacts often went bad when not in use. Eyebrow board finally failed, and we replaced it.
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Are you trying to run on gas, or 110 electric? You should have lights on the panel , either way, from the 12v
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Nan, what's your battery level? Is the trailer plugged in? Are your other twelve volt plugs operational?
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As a note, we did try the unit with our Westinghouse 2500 watt generator, and it started and ran fine. We've used the Westinghouse this summer for power tools. It charges the Makita batteries, runs an old 2+horsepower skillsaw, or a tablesaw, or a chop saw. It has issues with our small compressor (2 hp, but probably a high Startup power draw,) and have to reset frequently. All of these are one saw at a time not two.
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We haven't needed ac yet this summer in the mountains, but we used it a lot while cleaning and setting up the trailer for the summer. I was impressed with the comfort and quiet in the early Florida heat. It cooled the trailer quickly. I also tried the dehumidifier mode, which is likely just the ac running at a lower speed, according to a friend of mine. It did work. Our Elite trailer is smaller, but you might ask Recpro maximum square footage recommended for the areas where you like to camp. The old 13,500 literally froze us out on low. This one brings the temp down quickly, 20 below ambient if I want, and doesn't seem to cycle excessively. The 9500 is only 1500 btu less than the 11k Oliver is installing now on the bigger trailers. The 9500 does NOT have a heat mode, like the bigger unit, so you should be aware of that. The swapout was pretty easy, except for getting our old, very heavy dometic off the roof. A younger friend came over to the house and helped us, and he did the work on the roof.
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We opted for the 9500, for the smaller size and less power. But, we have the smaller Elite.
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If you mostly work from a phone as I do, large signature images, maps, and descriptions increase scroll time when I read posts. We have a feature that turns hides everyone's signatures from your view, and can be reactivated through settings. To turn off signatures, go to the bottom of any post, look for the small gray "x" and click on it. All signatures will disappear, and you can scroll through more quickly. If you want to see signatures at a future date, go to your "account," then "account settings," then "signature," and move the slide to show signatures "on".
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