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Everything posted by SeaDawg
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RV Trailers at Cycle Oregon long term parking
SeaDawg replied to Rleog's topic in General Discussion
Yup. Love that classy trailer next to the airstream. ? Sherry -
Mike, sounds like a great idea. Please snap a photo or two when you finish your project. Sherry
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You'll probably want to check the outlet under the sink area. Some people have reported that the fridge 110 plug has come loose, or been knocked out completely over time. I believe the dc power is hardwired, and of course gas is poweted by dc board. On your system. The 110 plugs into a household type outlet, out of view, under the drawers.
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Green river gorge is a beautiful place, and a pretty "exciting" place for someone new to towing. Just guessing that's where you had to manually downshift. You're good to go now! Congratulations on a successful trip home. Thanks for the info on your Navigator. Glad you are happy with your choice!
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I split this from another topic. Hope you guys are ok with it, but I think it deserves its own run. Sherry
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Letchworth SP in western new New York, east of Rochester, near Castile, isn't far off the 90, but closes the campground mid October. Absolutely beautiful, in any season. Check their website before you plan to stay. They usually close 8th to 12th of October.. great, if it fits your schedule and route. Conversely, you could cut south, skip some of the tolls, and rejoin 90 near Erie PA, and spend a night at Allegheny State park near Salamanca, south of Buffalo. It's a pretty park, and quite big. I think both campgrounds are open til end of October. We had electricity, but not water, if I remember correctly, in Red Cabin cg. Bring plenty of leveling material. Going west, many campgrounds close mid September or mid October. But, hardy midwesterners love snowshoeing, croiss country skiing, and winter camping, so some sites in Minnesota state parks stay open year round. Look at Myre Big Island, near Albert Lea, just off 90. I haven't stayed there, as I have plenty of nearby relatives where we driveway camp?, but I've heard it is beautiful. And at least some sites open thru the winter. Something "corny" is the world famous corn palace, Mitchell, SD. The city has a campground at little Lake Mitchell. Very clean, if a little worn, but super nice midwestern people. I think that it will still be open. Just call ahead. You'll miss the Hostfest in Minot, its in September this year... too bad. That's definitely worth the stop. Carry a portapotty or luggable loo, just in case. You may not have open dump stations or hookups everywhere on your route, but pit toilets are generally open. Best to be prepared for late fall/ winter, where camping season is over, and pipes can freeze, so full hookup sires are generally closed, of course. We had a lot of snow one day a few years ago in October when I drove my mom up to Minnesota for a family event. Not fun for a Florida transplant. But that early the season, everything melted by noon.. Good luck, and gave fun.
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Hidalga, I'm sorry to hear that news. When you have time, would you post the info here. I'm guessing you need to be a member to read most posts on the casitaforum. This is what I get when I click on the Green Eggs and Ham thread:
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Mike, those look great. No adhesive, no suction cups. I looked up similar items on Amazon. A bathroom mirror is labeled "Oliver." ?
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So, did you have all your cushions made elsewhere? I think that I remember you ordering custom matress(es)? Just curious.
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I think I misunderstood your original post. Looks like you're looking for a storage cover that covers the shroud of the outside unit? From the info on Oliver University, looks like you have a Dometic Penguin II. You can verify that with the model serial number plate... that's probably visible both up top, and under the inside cover. Or, just call Oliver Service, to be sure. You'll probably want to call them anyway, about your bolts spinning. Either something isn't properly aligned, or some threads are stripped. Obviously, you want to get the outside shroud securely fastened before you take another trip. I'm still not all that clear on what you've removed, initially. Sorry.
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I don't think you should need a new cover, personally. It all fit for before. The shrouds ( covers) are kind of pricey, if that's what you're discussing. A mud dauber's nest shouldn't push anything out of alignment. Do you have any photos?
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I found a few other ideas. Same concept, different materials. This time, as a space for the dog https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/twin-bed-mod/ Another solution https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/platform-for-additional-sleeping-area-between-twin-beds/
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Several people have done that. Heres one link. I know there are others. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/converting-a-twin-to-king-or-at-least-space-between-the-middle/
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Awesome! Well, awesome job by you, figuring it all out. That was a real mess in there... Thanks for letting us know your results. Muppy, sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday, as I had a super busy day. By the time I looked back, Dave S had already given you the link. Now, hopefully, you'll get to do some camping before the campgrounds shut down for winter! Sherry
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Welcome back. Sounds like you live in a really nice community, with helpful vendors. Glad you got it all straight. ? The part numbers weren't on the invoice, I guess? Back in the day, we'd just get a ticket that said "parts" and a price, but excellent service. Sounds like your store...
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Muppy, I'm really sorry for your issues, but sounds like you have narrowed some possibilities. Here's what I would try. Since you have a big leak on both city or tank ( with pump), I'd start at the pump area. In our older trailer, we can see all the valves and pump clearly. Can you? Since you get leaking water from both sources, I'd first look at valves ( check valve, particularly), . Turn on just the pump. No faucet open. Give it a few minutes. Do you see anything near the pump? Take this slow. Put a paper towel under the connections at the pump. See if it gets spots . If not , try the sink faucet, only. See if you get any dripping. Wait awhile. Look again near the pump. Also, Open up the area under the sink by pulling out the drawers. If nothing there, after several mintes, shut off the kitchen faucet. and try the bath faucet. The good news is, pex lines rarely rupture, even if frozen, by the previous owner. The bad new is, you definitely have a bad leak somewhere. Probably at a valve or visible junction/ connector. Others may have a better idea. This is just mine. I like to follow the water, one step at a time.
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Trainman, I'm really sorry to hear of your issue. However, I can think of several reasons to follow up with Oliver and Suburban before ordering a non oem part out of pocket. The first, of course, is the $100, since a new board under warranty would be zero, and I'd rather spend the money on something else. ? Second, using a non oem board could void the rest of your warranty, which, I think with Suburban is 3 years. Not just the one year wrap you get from Oliver. A number of rv appliances have warranties well beyond one year, if maintained. The third... if warranty issues go unreported, to Oliver, and Suburban, they think everything is hunky dory. And, the cycle continues... There are really only two major manufacturers of standard tank six gallon water heaters, both based in the US. Suburban has been around forever, as you know, and they do stand behind their products, installed in rvs made by a great number of manufacturers. Unless something has changed (and I'm unsure, as we now have a Girard tankless), they offer the longer warranty of the two. Atwood, the other, sold out to Dometic, and I believe has a 2 year warranty. As far as being " cheap Chinese" as referenced in another thread on this topic, I'm pretty certain the Suburban is manufactured in Tennessee, USA, where the factory and warehouse employ three to four hundred people. Sure. Some of the components come from offshore. Just like American cars. But that's pretty much the way the world works today. Global economy. Over the last three years, I've seen half a dozen or so posts about suburban water heater issues. At least two were faulty connections, corrected immediately after pickup. Several others were boards. That's a little over 1 per cent failure rate, which I doubt Suburban likes, but it doesn't make them "junk." Honestly, if I were in your shoes, I'd take a step back, pick up the phone tomorrow, and start the warranty process. See how it goes. No one has reported a second failure with a factory replacement board, that I know of. If you do go the Dinosaur board route (which I would only do in an emergency, or after warranty expiration on the unit, but that's me), keep your old board if you ever need warranty service. Any authorized dealer will look at the non oem board, and blame any problem on the board... Just my thoughts, and my personal process with all warranty items, rv, home, or boats. Sherry
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We didn't get build sheets in the early days.we got a folder full of manuals. We no longer have the original fiamma. But, i think Pete (bugeyedriver) does. You could pm him. . I would also call factory service. They might just have an old end cap somewhere in the boneyard. Ours discolored around year 5. We pulled them off and painted them with Krylon. Worked for another 4 or so. As i recall, replacement was around 50 bucks.
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Renogy 100w suitcase panel lowest price ever on Prime
SeaDawg replied to John E Davies's topic in General Discussion
Zamp also offers a 25 year solar production warranty, similar to quality home systems. It would be nice if they posted initial efficiency ratings, though. I chose US made panels for our home, at a premium over import. I understand your reasoning. We chose Sunpower, however, for the installation we're currently doing on the boat, with Victron controllers and monitors. Primarily for published efficiency ratings. Honestly, you're looking for backup, not primary, as we are for the boat, so definitely go with your comfort zone. A few hundred is a few nights dining out, vs. Unknowns, and ease of plug and play. I will say, Zamp panels are a lot heavier. That's both a plus and minus. The frames on Zamp are beefier. But more to lift and stow. I don't have a dog in the hunt, except looking to the future with my sister who also has a Zamp port installed in her rpod. We installed a Furrion port in our Oliver, so a different set of issues. Reminds me of VHS vs BETA, duking it out in the vcr world. When I was still using reel to reel, and a remote monitor... lol. -
Heat strip won't run on generator
SeaDawg replied to ShallowGal's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Chris, guess you're on your way home. Don't know where you are in BC, but if you are near Boya Lake, it's one of our top ten campsites anywhere, if you can snag one of the many lakeside spots. No more free firewood, since you're out of the Yukon, but beautiful views. Bears often sighted along the hikes, when we've been there, but I've not seen evidence in the very well managed campground. No hookups. Sometimes no water, some had to go to a community spring spout down the road. But, so worth it. What's up with the furnace? Resistive heat, as in the heat strip, usually draws a lot of amps. I don't think it's user error, just too much power for your generator. Hence, the overload. Try again when you get to a place with a 30 amp connection. Which may very well be when you are in the States again. You guys are troopers! What a trip full of memories. Sherry -
Last year, or maybe the year before, we bought a portable weBoost to test on our mountain property. It was simple. Plug into the 12v cigarette lighter outlet, put the antenna outside through the window. Portable means kind of "deploy every time." Unfortunately. we had zero tmobile signal, anywhere, when I did scans with our tmobile devices, so I returned it. You have to have some very weak signal to boost.... Our Verizon devices already worked fine. But, we did get a boost on the Verizon. That's why we carry devices from two carriers when we travel. Usually, if there's any signal at all, either tmobile or Verizon can connect. Sherry
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Renogy 100w suitcase panel lowest price ever on Prime
SeaDawg replied to John E Davies's topic in General Discussion
The zamp port is installed on trailers and motorhomes across many brands. Lots of people use Renogy and other brands of panels with the zamp port. And, because of the widespread use of the Zamp port, there's a lot of choice out there in adaptors and cables to make other less expensive options work. Renogy may even sell an adaptor, themselves. As long as the panel has mc4 connectors on the back, you should be able to buy a 10 ft cable with zamp end, or a cable and connector, for I'm estimating $25 to $50. You could call Renogy about the specific unit you want.. there are four options in John's link above. And, Renogy is running a labor day sale right now, as well. Yesterday, I saw a 20 per cent off coupon code for first time checkout with google express when I looked briefly at the renogy site.. . Sherry
