SeaDawg

I think you're in an appropriate spot. Let us know what you find.

I think we were able to access the plug from the inside. Paul and I were talking about it. We "think" we stuck a long tie wrap (24") through the drain tube , and cleared it. We so seldom use ac, and that was at least ten years ago. Maybe more.

The manuals won't help, because (i think) it's the Oliver drain tube is plugged, or kinked.. Just be glad you have twin beds. In the standard configuration, it would be dripping on the bed. (Ask me how I know.)

@John E Davies, I haven't found the easter eggs. 😐 But here's my "smile photo." I call this tree on our property in NC my t-rex tulip tree. If you squint, you can see the open jaws, and neck outline. This time of the year, the tulip poplars are in bloom, near the top, where the little blooms kind of look like tulips. In the lower branch/bottom jaw, you can see the blossoms. They look like teeth from a distance. These trees are usually kind of cone shaped. T rex is reaching for the sun, obviously.

Great looking tires, Mike. How do they ride? Love the sidewall protection.

Lori, since you specifically asked about the bathroom, I use windex or a mild dish soap and water solution to clean the trailer most of the time. I don't use household toilet bowl chemicals in the toilet, either, as many dump stations are big septic tanks. My toilet brush is a relatively soft brush from dollar tree. Probably more of a bottle brush than toilet brush. All plastic. No metal to rust. For sanitizing and mildew removal, I prefer hydrogen peroxide to bleach based products. Still best to ventilate well, but much less harsh on your lungs (and your trailer, your wallet, and the environment in general) than chlorine bleach based products. You can put regular drug store 3 per cent hydrogen peroxide in an opaque spray bottle, and just spray it on surfaces and watch the mildew and dirt loosen. Wipe it off. I just used some again this morning, on a bamboo dish drying rack, and it worked great. I scrubbed it off with an old toothbrush, wiped with a rag, and rinsed. This time around, I treated the rack (after sun drying) woth food grade mineral oil. ($2 in the laxative section in walmart. It's what I use on all my wooden and bamboo cutting boards and cutlery handles. No need to buy expensive cutting board oil, which is basically the same product.) Btw, once you get your trailer shiny clean, you might consider putting a coat of wax on the walls and countertops. (Unless you have a nonskid shower mat, like foys wood one, I wouldn't wax the floor.) I do this annually, to keep the interior gelcoat shiny bright and sealed. I forgot to do it last year, and for the first time in 14 years, had a couple small spots on the sink counter that were difficult to remove. Firmly convinced that the interior wax is a step i won't forget, again.

Back in the day, those panels were bigger, metal, and they didn't warp. But, they were really ugly, and rusted. Today, they're plastic, don't rust, but can warp. I hope Oliver will file a claim with norcold/dometic. My 14+ year old plastic vents have not warped. They're smaller, and I suspect a more thermally stable plastic.

On my phone, it's several steps to get to signature. I go to the three bars/"hamburger" button, top right. From the drop down, select account, then account settings, then settings area, then signature. It's quite the treasure hunt to find it.

@Kristie Mathis, I moved your thread to a different subforum. You'll find your way around the forum quickly. No worries.

@Imelda, you shouldn't have had to remove the slats to remove the drawers. Ours are weirdly "tricky," but we've never had to remove slats and fasteners to remove the drawers. The trickiest is the European hardware. I'm sorry you went through this. If you used the same holes, you may need to use larger screws in the future. At the very least, some toothpicks, and adhesive. I'm always amazed at all the "stuff" you tackle on your own. Keep up the good fight. You're a trooper. Ps we run our elite tire pressure 55 to 60, on st tires. No issues with drawers flying open, on crazy mountain roads. I've nicknamed my husband mario Andretti. Me, I drive a lot slower.

Hi, Kristie, and welcome to the family. Your Ollie should have come with a 30 amp rated power cord and a 30 to 20 adaptor for the plug. You could plug into the 120v/20a outlet below the 240v in your first picture. You should be able to run your a/c and some lights from that, though not the microwave or a hair dryer at the same time as the a/c. I was able to run my 13.5 dometic dinosaur a/c (no soft start) on my home outlet in that way, and we do that to plug into our little Honda generator for charging our battery, as well. Congratulations on finding your Oliver! Happy camping.

Welcome to the forum! The le is being redesigned this year. The original, like mine, had a twin floor plan available, with one bed across the back, the other slim bed down the side, utilizing the small dinette. Stay tuned for the redesign. We'll see. Attached is a very old floorplan, for the elite.

It is, in my fridge. Requires skillful packing and prep. And, frequent defrosting, as well. Every 10 days to two weeks, in humidity. Its small, but full length. Or, maybe I should say depth. Much deeper than my old Dometic. But, probably less than half the size.

Do you have a photo? That's what I've gotten into mine. It's ridiculously tiny. We knew that going in. I live with it, because I love the fridge.

I totally get that. Sleeping on a 25" bunk is confining. Ok for me, not for my much taller and heavier husband. Let is know what the factory has to say on the redesign. 6" width could make a huge difference.

All of that is a "that depends." We rarely have had hookups in 14 years. You do what you need to do, and the national luna is a great unit. I'd love to have one, when we get on the road again.

It does exist. With your TV, my elite is a better match, but John has made it work for years. I wouldn't trade my early Elite for anything but a very expensive Aussie trailer. In our 15th season, its been such a great time. 152 days last year. We average well over 100 days a year, including covid, when we just went to north carolina, and stayed.

@Minnesota Oli, that's an awesome testament. For others, he did do a significant upgrade to the heating/ducting system. I personally would not choose to camp in subzero temps, but other folks here might want to. Not for me, if I can avoid it! I left Minnesota 40 years ago. I go back, usually in summer, to visit my family up there. Hardy vikings that they are.... Minnesota oli's upgrade link, for those who are interested in camping sub zero

I'd say the magic works, then. Especially, with your retrofit. For us, it's mostly the air gap of double hull, in our 2008. Did you do anything with the windows? Just curious.

Sadly, I can't eat ice cream anymore. Dairy is limited to yogurt and cheese. I'm such a blue bell fan, but it doesn't agree with me. Holidays, I live with the consequences of a spoon or two. My husband has agreed to ice cream store stops, instead of taking up freezer room.

Newer technology widows, properly sealed and installed, can have an r value of 5 maybe 6. My windows don't feel hot in the sun, even on the west and south sides. There's some really thin metallic layer in there, that blocks uv and heat, but barely changes visibility. Can't speak to the cold, as I live in Florida. I'd "guess" my Ollie double panes are much lower r value. The shades help. And, some hardy cold weather campers use reflectix to increase it. I have, in Alaska, with crappy single pane windows. Dual purpose-- let's me sleep at night, with the midnight sun.

When we were building our sips home, LEED standards required insulating every solid wood component (headers, lvls, posts, etc) as a thermal break. We used reflectix. My LEED advisor said it added only r1, but it helped with sealing the structure. The firring strip interstitial space took the rvalue to maybe 6? If I remember correctly. An inch air gap between two layers of reflectix type insulation may help more. I don't know. Rvalues require testing, but not within my capability. I don't have any of your current insulation in my 2008 trailer, just air gaps, and I've been good into the high teens, if it warms above freezing daytime. I'm not a serious cold weather camper, so it works for me. Slideouts have always been problematic for us, in motorhomes. They leak cold or hot air, and allow the mosquitoes in, as well.

Oliver used to offer a twin bed model for the elite. Across the back was a 30 inch bunk, and small dinette dropped down to a 24" bunk. One of my camping friends modified her Casita to have a standard home size 38" twin east west across the back, and built a slide out platform with legs to widen the side dinette to 30". It made the aisle narrow, of course, but still allowed her to take her handicapped friend camping.

My kids shoebox freezer has held one ice cube tray, 2 small packs of frozen veggies, 2 sirloin, two burger parties, two pork chops, and two salmon portions. I vacpack meats and freeze them between cookie trays so they're flat and stackable. I hope this is an option, not standard. I still think the 3way is the best option for boondocking, in all but extreme climates.

Guessing it was the isotherm version of my indel b made for truckfridge. The freezer is the size of a shoebox. Great fridge, though, if you can live without a bigger freezer.