SeaDawg

Several people have discussed increasing garage door height in the past, but I think you're the first to do so. I'll be interested in seeing your photos along the way. Is the contractor who built your garage doing the modifications? How are you underpinning that existing foundation under the load bearing wall? What will hold back the exposed soil? Has the crew shored up that "ledge" in case of rain? Quite a labor of (Ollie) love, there. Best of luck.

Glad you've made it this far without incident, and I certainly hope Dexter is quick in response. Your evening campsite photo is calendar worthy, imo. Looks so tranquil.

Thanks. I understood that at some point, solar became so popular that backing plates were in every trailer. In 2008, ours were a tough retrofit. Keep us posted on your system. It looks so very professionally done.

So, it took a month, but I got my spares kit ! Then, I found out valterra sells a kit of 8 for $6 on Amazon. Don't need the tool. We now own 4!

Not light, for sure. From renogys website, 36 pounds for 200 watt suitcase. (But less than zamp legacy) I wonder if that includes the cable? We really do have to take weight into consideration. I don't like to bother to take out my coleman panels of we won't be in the same spot for awhile. Too heavy.

Good consideration. I think the renogy 200 watt suitcase system weighs in quite a bit less than zamp, under 40 pounds. I agree. Unless you build your own, with flexible panels, these aren't flyweight. But, I can manage 40 pounds, on my own.

For our friends and neighbors, and our few Canadian Oliver owners, happy Canada Day as you celebrate your heritage.

Someone mentioned portable solar as a "try and see" if you like it. I got a notice that Renogy has a 200 watt suitcase solar on sale for the holiday for under $350, free shipping. Includes a detachable pwm controller and 10 ft cord, with alligator clips. Makes for a pretty reasonable entry ticket. And, useful many times, even with fixed solar. We break out our portable panels when parked in shade for several days.

@carnivore, your install looks great! Did Oliver install the backing plates in the roof during manufacture? Aren't we fortunate to have so many owners here willing to help others?

Those oru kayaks look amazing. Even the tandem that converts to a single weighs less than a 200 watt zamp suitcase solar kit. Even I could handle that by myself. Website shows they sell backpacks for the lighter singles, so you can walk them in to more remote areas more easily. @Kirk Peterson, which model do you have? Do you find the estimated assembly time and water rating (calm, choppy, etc.) from the website to be accurate? Of course, I realize your experience level is much higher than mine. We don't use our kayaks much, and then only in calm water /perfect weather.

I'd say good choices. Great info. We'll look forward to your updates as you continue your travels. North Dakota has so many dead zones! I'm really happy this worked for you. It's a gamechanger.

Probably wouldn't work with "big hair." (Most of us gave up that style decades ago, though.) Big hair could become a "sticky situation."

I found these on Amazon . Various colors The black would hide the bug carcasses, and we could "pretend" they're decorative.

Shades of Chevy Chase? 1980s vacation?

Wasn't it hard to focus on email, with that view? So amazing, especially before noon, from the pisgah inn.

Would the additional photos in this thread help at all?

We managed for 4 years, so far, 2 years with 200 watts fixed solar and a single 100 watt portable, and 2 years with 400 watts fixed solar and 200 watts portable. And, the Honda 1000. 2 x 105 ah agm 12v batteries. I've logged the amp hours used as 60 to 70, most days, by the fridge, as I noted several times here. It's definitely doable, with power management, and backup. 152 days, most days without power, last year. But, it's definitely something to consider, and keep in mind. The tradeoff is high reliability, just about zero maintenance, and mine cools well in cold and hot weather. Can't speak much to altitude difference, as we're rarely above 5000 feet, but I doubt that affects the danfoss compressor, either, which can affect the propane fridge. I think power consumption is rated at around 4.5 amps, 12v, but the compressor doesn't run continuously. Maybe 50 to 60 per cent of the time. I do miss the option to run on propane, as we camp without hookups most of the time, but I love my fridge. @Steph and Dud B, is the fridge in the Oliver elevated a bit off the floor? we built a small low drawer under ours. Between the added height, and the pullout drawer, I never have to get on my hands and knees anymore to find something stored in the bottom of the fridge.

@FrankC, I'll look forward to seeing your results. The silicon might be a lot easier to clean than the caulk.

That fridge interior looks just like my truckfridge 130, and the isotherm cf130, both of which are manufactured by indel webasto. (I replaced my freezer door with one from isotherm after I broke mine last year.) We installed the fridge in February, 2018, and we've been thrilled with its steady performance since then. It cools down very quickly, makes ice quickly, and holds steady temperature, no matter the ambient temp. There are some major advantages with the indel products, and a few caveats. The overall fridge capacity is bigger than either of my previous 3ways, (2008 norcold, replaced by a dometic rm2454), though the freezer section is indeed smaller. The door organization is really nice, though it took awhile to get used to. I'm very fond of the crisper drawer for accessing the contents down low. It runs quietly, almost silently, on dc power with the very efficient danfoss/secop compressor. As we travel, it uses far less amp hours than a 3way on 12v. (We typically use 60 to 75 ah daily to power the fridge.) That energy is easily replaced with solar on the highway, so that will be a bonus for folks who didn't like the idea of traveling with the 3way on gas. At night, there are no fridge panel lights illuminating my dark trailer, but there is an interior light to see the contents when the door is opened. There is no concern about leveling, as there is nothing to crystallize as in a 3way. These have been installed in boats for decades, including sailboats, which are often far from level, on a tack. With no vents to the outside, mud daubers and air leaks/dust are non-issues. The disadvantages, for me, with my less expensive and quite possibly less insulated truckfridge: I start experiencing ice buildup in the freezer section every seven to ten days. If I don't defrost the freezer, the freezer door won't close properly, and, eventually, I broke the freezer door hinge pin due to ice buildup. May not be a problem in the more expensive units that Oliver will be installing, but something to watch for, and don't procrastinate defrosting if you get a buildup. The freezer door replacement was difficultto find, and was over $100, with shipping. (My fridge door is not that well insulated. I know, because I can see condensate sometimes on the door in a pattern that show less insulation in structural areas.) Our 2008 has only two 105 ah marine agm batteries, so power management for us is always important. I'd highly recommend portable solar and/or a generator as backup for boondocking in the shade, for those without lithium. I'm fine if we camp in sun, but in full shade, boondocking, we need to deploy portable solar or break out the little Honda every few days. For me, it's a small inconvenience tradeoff for a quiet and highly reliable fridge. I love that table over access panel that Oliver devised. Great idea, and beautifully implemented. (We sealed our vents with heavy visquene, insulation, and hvac tape, after our retrofit. ) Overall, I couldn't be happier with our compressor fridge. One of our favorite upgrades, ever.

Recently, one of the people i follow on youtube posted this.. almost 4000 miles from Michigan to her other home in Alaska. Imo, worth the watch. It's necessary to be prepared. And, its a beautiful trip. https://youtu.be/Vr9VNutHGiE

It does reduce payload, but it's really nice to be able to look ahead for cheaper gas. And, stay on the road longer between gas stops.

I'm doing my course, again. There's a lot of repetition, but many screens are at least somewhat useful. Course was $18 or so. We"ll save $100 each. Per year. 3 years. Check what your state,,and your insurance company offers. For us, no brainer .

We paid around $70 for this one, a few years ago. You may be able to find it on another sight, for a lesser price. We bedded with synthetic butyl, went around with loctite marine, and have been very happy. Easier to clean than our original Ventline. none of these are perfect . But... We love the overhead light.

If I remember correctly, and that's possible that i don't, there's a fuse in the body of the ventline fan that we used to have. It was buried, if I remember correctly Our newer maxxair dome has the fuse receptacle easily accessible. Visible and accessible from the interior. Before I spent a ton of money and time, repairing a ventline, I'd buy the maxxair dome, with light. We have loved it, and the additional overhead light. Just a thought.

Or, you can buy a nice faucet for far less than $250. . I also think dura has a long warranty. Check that. I've gotten warranty replacement on delta, pfister, and others. I'd try that, first. Imo. Many plumbing companies offer lifetime warranty. Your choice.