SeaDawg

I saw this yesterday, and doubt we have anything to worry about. I went through the list of manufacturers, though, in case i had any friends with sob trailers or coaches who didn't see the alert. Thankfully, I don't. If you do, you might send an email. Looks like none of those manufacturers intend to notify owners til summer is half over.

There's not much info for troubleshooting a blank display. What you did - removing the fuse to cut power and reboot- is about it, and checking connection at the panel and power source. I "think" if you have a loose connection at one of the sensors, you would normally show an error signal instead of digits, not a blank display. (Opn or sht/open or short) A blank display would probably indicate no power, because of a loose connection to the power source , or the panel, or a blown fuse. Or a bad or failing panel. (Or a tiny gremlin inside your panel, tugging at the wire and reseating it while you mowed the lawn, put out the awning, and started up the fridge... 🤣 🧟‍♂️) Outside possibility that your continued punching of the buttons knocked out a tiny bit of corrosion or debris that limited contact, and you'll be just fine in the future... (remember how we used to "fix" touch tone phone buttons that wouldn't work by holding down the hook at the phone, and pushing the buttons repeatedly till they once again made contact?) We actually like our seelevel, enough that we installed the same seelevel system on the boat when we installed new tanks. Among those available, it has great reviews, and many people consider it an upgrade to other cheaper systems, and it was a relatively simple install and calibration. Used to be made in Canada, and probably still is. 15th season with the trailer, and fingers crossed that I didn't gump us by saying we liked the seelevel, and its reliability...

Are you getting no (dark) display, on all the guages on the seelevel?

NPS put this out on social media, in a humorous attempt to make more people aware of the dangers. Every year, we see reports of folks trying to interact or take selfies with wildlife, with disastrous and sometimes fatal results . None of us, I'm sure.

It does look lovely. Close to Newland, 30 minutes or so from Banner Elk. We love Banner Elk. Love that they will offer dog walking.

Bummer. Wag bags?

Welcome, and hope you have a great camping season. We are sailors as well. There's a lot of carryover, but obviously, other things are different in a land yacht. When you visit NY, I hope you will find space at Letchworth s p for a few days. It's a beautiful park, and worth several days. (My husband hails from western NY.)

@BeauDog do you have the ez start?

Pretty heavy, at almost 100 pounds. I'd look at something lighter, personally.

I use Samsung notes on my android, all the time. Not as extensive as your use of apple notes, but it seems I always have my phone with me, and paper lists seem to get lost...

You've had excellent advice so far. I'll try to consolidate,, in one routine, which was ours when we had 3ways. I have a dc compressor fridge now in our Ollie, but had two different 3ways in our Oliver, 3ways in other campers, and this was our experience, fwiw. Your friend was correct. Solar is plenty to run your fridge on gas, even in crappy weather, if all that is running is the fridge. (Gas mode does require dc power, but very little. The fridge won't shut down for low battery til you're almost flat. ) check your battery level when you enter the trailer, to make sure you're all good before you begin, since you have no power at the storage unit, before you turn on the solar and battery disconnect switches. If you have the norcold, make sure you are set to gas, not auto, because if you run out of gas, it will revert to 12v operation on its own, and that not only uses a lot of battery, but is the least efficient (and most power greedy) mode of the fridge. It will run your house battery down, even with solar, imo. In our experience, we found the fridge cooled faster if we loaded a couple frozen water jugs and cold, non perishable items in the fridge after turning it on, in the fridge compartment, not the freezer. (Cold water, beer, sodas, unopened chilled condiments, etc.). These cold items provide a steadying cold sink, just like your home fridge. The frozen water jugs went back in a cooler after fridge was at temp, and we loaded the food we wanted to take, and we used the thawing jugs for drinking water on the road. Resist the temptation to jam the fridge to the max. You need air circulation to keep the fins clear of ice. Especially, leave free space near the fins. Pack stuff close together, but not high items, there. Before you turn the fridge on, turn your gas valve on SLOWLY if you've had it turned off. Then, light a burner on the stove and run for 30 to 45 seconds, or longer, with a clear blue flame, to insure gas line is free of air pockets. (If you have air pockets in the line, you'll see a lot of orange or yellow, or sputtery flame, but that's ok. Wait til it's all blue flames, none missing, with tiny yellow tips above the blue, steady, and then you're all good to turn on the fridge. ) If you don't have one, I'd recommend a thermometer for the fridge. One with an outside wireless readout is great. After you've turned on the fridge, you'll hear it light off. (It usually clicks a few times, that's the igniter, then you hear a little whoosh as it lights. (It may do this a couple times, with a pause between attempts.) I could usually hear this from inside the trailer, if I wasn't running fans, and there wasn't a lot of ambient noise. After the fridge lights, if you go out and put your hand near the outside upper vent, you'll feel some heat exhaust after a few minutes, and you'll know it's running/flame is good. (Its hard to see the fridge flame, as its really small, even with the bottom vent off) After five or ten minutes or so, open the fridge, put your hand on the freezer bottom, and you should feel it's cooler than before, though not super cold. That lets you know it's started the cooling process. (30 minutes in, you can probably sense a bit of frost on the freezer floor with your hand.) Our gas fridge took about 6 hours empty to cool down to foodsafe temp of 41, three or 4 hours depending on ambient (outdoor) temperature if we preloaded with the frozen jugs and cold nonpershiables. Winter in Florida it obviously took less time. Summer, more. Working with a 3way is very different from a home fridge, but you'll soon find it's easy and routine, and a great asset for boondocking. It does require some getting "used to." If your subdivision allows overnight in the driveway for loading, like ours, I'd go get the trailer day before, start the fridge, and get on with enjoyment. It saves a lot of load tv/unload/ load trailer time. I'm sure others will find things to add. Steph and dubs alarm is great, if you camp with ac, which we rarely do. Fridge runs great on ac power, so if that's your plan, get their alarm.

Well, just wondering if the remote falls down somewhere sometimes, if it might turn the radio on? I think carnivore is likely on the right track. Especially if it turns on at the same time each night.

Our 2008 has a main switch by the door for our Jensen stereo. If you have such a switch, power it off unless you're actually using the system, until you figure it out. At least you'll sleep uninterrupted by Kenny G. Does the furrion have a remote?

Yes, I see that now. Thanks for the help.

@mossemi, you're correct, and thanks. Steve has flagged him. Though the mods try to read every post, you and others can also help the mod team to respond quickly by using the "report" button in the drop down box, as you did, as well as making this post. When someone reports a post, a message immediately goes out to everyone on the team to take a look at the post, and take any action necessary, as Steve did hours ago. Normally, we'd hide or delete the post, but we can leave this one up here as an example. I think a number of members don't know the report button exists.

Not in your wheelhouse today, maybe, but you've shown you're pretty fearless to learning a few new skills, @csevel. If you decide you want to ditch the microwave, I'm sure you can do it. And, we'll help. Got rid of ours a few years ago.

Imelda, I have owned 3 air fryers. Love them. Like a mini convection oven. I can see why you carry a small one. I use mine all the time, at home, so I don't have to fire up a big oven for small items: Zucchini boats, etc. Roasting asparagus or squash. Rosemary baby potatoes, etc. Chops and chicken . Muffins, quiche, etc. Cookies. Biscuits. Most (maybe not all) things I bake, I can manage in an air fryer

Diesel here is some places 5.79 a gallon, vs 4.19 for regular. Something to think about .

15th season, mostly without hookups.. 1. We have the generator connection at the front. To the best of our memory, we've never used it. (We talked about this a week ago with a friend. ) I think that's an option best suited for those who carry a generator in the basket. 2. We don't have ultraleather in our trailer. We do have it in our boat, in the main salon, and love it. Cleanable, breathable,, comfy. (5 or 6 years). Probably a waste for sleeping cushions, imo. All our boat (and trailer) sleeping cushions are fabric. We have a very small dog, with tiny nails. My fabric cushions in my trailer are in 15th season. I'll probably replace them in a few years. They've served us well. 3. We don't have a basket. We do have a quick connect on the bumper, that has been useful over the years, depending on whether we carry a grill, or not. Buying that depends on your propane extras. Many items can easily be managed with an extra 1 lb or 5 lb tank. You have to decide, based on your camping style. 4 no to the shower track, imo. Makes the small marine bath smaller, to no great gain. Showering helps clean the bath, which I'd have to do anyway, later. 5. Bike rack. We don't usually carry bikes, so search the many posts here on bike racks. If we do some relatively local camping, we'll occasionally take bikes in the truckbed, for the weekend, so seriously not an expert, here. What I told my friend last week: Other than solar, most addons can be added after sale, if you're handy. Even solar isn't that tough, for some.

@MAG, I'd like to thank you, for helping others in the future to avoid perils that you avoided, by design or chance. Changing out batteries with solar panels is not the same as swapping out car batteries. As you well know now. Thank you so much for helping others. Your honest questions and feedback will undoubtedly help others in days to come. Please keep us all posted on your progress. We're all rooting for you.

Steve can likely tell you if you have a "switch" inline, and if so, where it might be located. I don't know. Some trailers have one, some don't. The important thing right now is that the 30 amp breaker you showed in the photo is set to "off", so that circuit is not sending power to the loose wires from the solar that are no longer connected to a battery. Either way it was wired,(right or middle) the breaker would have shut off solar generated power, before or after the controller. Before is what the apparently nonexistent or hidden switch does in your diagram, I think. As Steve said, understand that the line up to the 30 amp breaker is still potentially energized any time your solar panels are exposed to the sun, and generating power. That's why topgun and I suggested you cover the panels completely. I suspect Steve concurred. If you don't have an inline switch, I'd just leave those panels covered til you and your tech install the new batteries you ordered. And, leave your trailer unplugged from 110. No power in/no power out can do no harm. (Is your trailer stored inside, or outside? Will you have to secure the moving blankets or tarps?) The really important thing is, you were likely very careful, and probably also very lucky. If you disconnected the batteries in daylight to remove them, and the breaker was on, you were working with a hot positive. 12v dc, but still a hot line. You didn't see sparks, didn't get shocked, and didn't burn up your trailer, probably didn't damage the controller, so life is actually pretty good right now. And, I'm really glad you spoke with Steve. As I said, he knows far better than any of the rest of us how your trailer is actually wired. It's slightly different from mine. He's totally the early elite II expert. I don't know what advice he gave you about all the loose wires in the battery compartment right now, but you'll want to always be sure none of the wires touch, til you get your new batteries installed. I'm sure he gave you good recommendations.

Happy mother's day!

Thanks for the link, @trekhard. very pretty selection, and prices seem very reasonable for by the foot lengths.

In Europe, truma has (or had) a very cool system that attached to the trailer. We have purchased two different systems for our Elite. Neither has been perfect. Most seem to be designed for boat trailers, and lighter weight, honestly.

Costco, unlike sams/walmart, has never given me an issue on returns. I hope this holds true for you.