Ray and Susan Huff

Would you just monitor them and charge when SOC gets low? Or disconnect?

Our new Oliver (yet to be delivered) will be stored in our RV carport. We are ordering the solar option with either AGM or Lithium batteries (still undecided). Since the trailer will be under cover, the solar panels will not be keeping the batteries charged. When we don't have the power hooked up we would like to use a portable solar panel plugged into the external solar connection to keep the batteries healthy. This side of the trailer will have good Southern exposure (assuming the connection is on the port side near the battery compartment) with no trees or obstructions with the caveat that we live in Oregon, so solar energy might not always be optimal. Has anyone done this? What size solar panel (wattage) would be recommended?

Being from the PNW, I must ask: has there been any talk of a West coast rally? I'm not saying I'm volunteering to stage one, but just how many Olivers hale from the western US? And what a great opportunity to see the beauty of our area. Will this Covid thing ever end????

My best advice is to start with the bare essentials and see what you need/want after you have been on a few journeys. It is easy to buy way too many "things" only to find later that some are not essential. If you are starting new (first time RVer) you will need more than if you already have an RV set up. This being said, know that I am the "Galley Expert"; my husband doesn't cook and I don't venture into the "Tool Man's" territory 😉 Disclaimer: Everyone does things differently; there are no set-in-stone requirements when it comes to RV life. Magma pots and pans: Magma pans are great, but certainly not essential. We got by for a time with an inexpensive set of camping pots and pans. It all depends on if you are a minimalist cook or more of a pro chef; or if you will be camping vs full-timing. I initially got the basic 7-piece Magma set plus the carrying bag. Since then, I have added the colander and the saute pan. They all nest together and these additional pieces don't take up more space (besides I might need them). They do add to your payload, if that is a concern. If you think you want all of these, then the 10-piece set is more economical. You save a few $$$$ from buying the 7-pc set and adding to it later. With the larger set you get the additional two pieces (above) and 2 additional sizes of saucepans. It also comes with an extra handle which is needed with so many pans. Get the non-slip pads that protect the pans. You're paying a lot for these pans, you don't want them scratched! If you plan to use an induction burner, ordinary camping pots won't do. If this is your plan, be sure to get the induction Magma set. I opted for the ceramic coated version, but not the "Professional". The difference is the professional can go in the oven (which Oliver doesn't have). Unless you also plan to use them at home. Others may chime in with other opinions regarding Magma. Appliances: With storage at a premium, appliances must be chosen wisely. Again, what you want/need depends on how you will be using your Oliver. We downsized from a large 5th-wheel to a small motorhome a few years ago, so have pretty much pared down our appliance lineup to an Oliver appropriate size. Here is what I have on board: Coffee appliances: Stovetop percolator or French Press. I will occasionally pack a Moka Pot. We grind beans in advance of a short trip or take a hand grinder for road trips. Also, an electric tea kettle (not essential, but good for making a pot of French Press when both stovetop burners are in use. These choices depend on your coffee making style. Some like an Aeropress (takes up little space); or a simple pour-over setup. Many are tea drinkers. There are many ways to get your daily dose of caffeine. Toaster: So, we have the two-slice toaster, but don't use it often and mostly when we have shore power. We also have a stovetop toaster that we use when conserving power or just don't want to fire up the generator. For our "soon to be Oliver", we are opting for a storage cabinet in place of the microwave. We seldom use the microwave and can learn to live without. My plan is to replace the 2-slice toaster with the Breville Mini Smart "toaster" oven we use at home. It will ride in the extra storage cabinet and gives options for baking, etc as well as making toast. Induction burner: this will be new territory for me. I have always wanted one and since we already have induction cookware, this will give us an alternative to indoor cooking that quickly heats up the trailer. Those who have one love it; not sure how I've managed without one. These are pretty much it for our appliances. We plan to camp in our Oliver while exploring the great outdoors; when we want the many conveniences of home, we stay home. I have no desire to full-time in an RV. The Instapot will stay home, as will the coffee maker and electric frypan. We like to enjoy nature - hiking, biking, kayaking, and me, pursuing my passion for photography. When on the road, don't spend any more time than needed in the galley. I prepare a lot of meals at home, as I do love creating meals from scratch. With RV cooking, it is important to keep this in mind - the complexity of your meals dictates how many utensils and cooking accessories are needed. Campfire gear: Of course, I'm not including the various campfire "appliances" - we use a simple charcoal grill; others opt for a portable gas grill. A dutch oven, if you like cooking over a fire, marshmallow/hot dog sticks, pie irons (versatile alternative to roasting stcks) and of course a trusty cast iron skillet. These can all be organized in a tote and carried in the tow vehicle. Depending on the circumstances, we sometimes take a two burner Jet Boil Base Camp propane stove for outdoors as well, especially if we are camping with family/friends. Can we do that yet??? Cabinet organizers: I am an organization freak (just ask any of my pre-retirement coworkers). I would definitely wait and see before purchasing too many organizing tools. After several excursions you will move and relocate supplies many times before settling on the best storage arrangement. I like to have the most used items in easy reach; less used can be somewhat buried. You don't want to have to unload the entire storage bin to get the items you use most often. That being said, totes will be your friend. They help keep cabinets organized and prevent contents from rattling around. Also, take advantage of the storage potential of your tow vehicle. Sorry for such a long post (is there a post length limit here? Am I going to be banned?) There is so much I haven't said, and I am leaving the Tool Shed to those more capable (it's important to play dumb when it comes to mechanical things. Then the better half will make necessary repairs 😃) I will end by saying, search the Internet for supply lists and get ideas from Family and Friend RVers. Someone else's ideas are often overlooked. If you find a great idea, share it here. If you try something that doesn't work for you, simply look for a better way.

I have a small rectangular basket, 11 L x 5.5 W x 3 D, that I keep in an overhead cabinet. It holds olive oil, a small jar of honey, herbs and spices and toothpick dispenser. It has grab slots on each end so it's easy to pull out when cooking. The basket came as a set, from Marshall's or Ross. The little spice jars are from Ikea. Thanks for the Zoodle tips. I'll give it a try tonight. Do you steam the "noodles"? How long?

To help us remember where we stayed, I keep a photo journal - a picture each place we stay and sights along the way. The great thing about digital photography is that each picture you take is labeled with time & date. My husband thinks it's weird, but I also take pictures of road signs. This helps connect the dots after we return home and want to recall where we've been.

So, tell me about tornados . . . . . we will be picking up our Oliver next year, the first part of February. Traveling from the Pacific Northwest. The plan is to take I-40 on the way East, going either through Reno/Las Vegas (weather permitting) or S. California (prefer not to make the boring drive down I-5 if at all possible). We aren't worried about the passes on the trip to Tennessee since we will be driving an F-350 4WD. The route home from Tennessee, towing our Oliver, is still in question. Mom and I drove from Oregon to Memphis years ago, the first part of March, straight across country via I-40. I recall only hitting one delay, I think at Albuquerque or maybe Amarillo (snow or wind). We definitely want to stay North of I-10, to avoid Dallas-Ft. Worth. Maybe I-20??? At any rate, we can take our time and take shelter in our new Oliver, if necessary. Would appreciate advice from anyone who has traveled from Hohenwald westward, especially towing. I know weather can be very unpredictable but we hope to pass through the mid-west before tornados become active. Also advice from those who have towed an Oliver with snow chains. My husband is a retired truck driver, but only drove the West coast Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and California. Last year we made two road trips - one to Nevada, Arizona, Utah and Idaho. the other Wyoming, Nebraska, Colorado, Idaho and Eastern Washington. We, too, like the road less traveled and prefer staying off Interstates, when appropriate. We are looking forward to the adventure of driving cross country to take delivery of our 2021 Oliver Elite II!

The grandkids gave me the same zoodle maker for my birthday (they like shopping at TJMax, too), but I can't seem to get the hang of making it work. The zucchini's are going crazy in the garden, so I'll give it another try. Maybe it will work better with fresh zucchini rather than the limp ones you get at the store. Or, maybe I just don't like veggie noodles 😁 We gave up the tupperware shakers for these by GSI. They are compact and seem to seal moisture out well. I think I found them at Sierra Trading Post Online, but I don't see them there now. Last, but not least are these silicone bakers. I did a lot of online searching before finding these at Nautical Scout.com. They cost a bit more than the abundant "made in China" versions, but are very good quality (made in France). The can be used in the microwave and toaster oven (temps up to 425 deg). Not for use with direct heat (stovetop or broiler). I use them at home and in the RV. They take up little precious space. Great for steaming vegetables and heating up leftovers.

I agree. It's good that Oliver builds a basic floor plan that can be modified according to individual needs. When a design is too complicated, the options for personal choices are limited. It is fun, however to see some of the innovative ideas owners come up with.

This conversation makes me think of Abbott and Costello (remember them?) "Who's on First?" 😂

Hmmmm . . . . . deleting the nightstand is an interesting concept. You lose the drawer, but you could have a hatch to easily access the rear area of the basement. And it would give more elbow room for those wanted to sleep with their head to the rear of the trailer. Our small motor home twin bed model has a night stand, but it is level with the bed platforms, not raised. The top of the "nightstand" folds out to convert the twin beds into a king, with filler mattresses. We don't use this option, but it does make for a bigger bed, if you so desire. The wrap around seating created by the Elite II nightstand deletion would make a nice daytime lounge and you can always set a tray there for use as a nightstand at night. Not sure how this works with the twin bed rails. Maybe a better solution is to convert the standard floorplan to twin by adding the bed rails. Does the rear bench of the standard wrap around seating have a hatch for basement access? If someone tries removing (or has already removed) the nightstand in a Twin bed lay out, please report. . . . . pictures are nice 😊

Have you considered making hand sanitizer?

I will certainly be glad when we are over this ordeal . . . . it has taken so much from our lives, especially where family is concerned.

When you say yours is the first unit with the circulator, do you mean the Comfort Plus model that recirculates the water supply in the lines, as needed, so the water between the heater and the faucet is always hot? This is the model we have in our motor home. It makes more sense, from a water conservation standpoint, since you don't have to run a bit of cold water in order to get hot from the lines. This would be a more attractive option for us, but I still feel the "tried and true" standard heater scores more points. 1. We don't use the shower that often 2. Even with our Truma Comfort Plus, we only turn it on when we need hot water. I can live with having to turn on the tank heater a bit sooner. 3. Truma is a bit more "finicky", but easier to drain. That being said, I hesitate to get one because, in our area it is hard to find someone certified for warranty work (the nearest is 2 1/2 hrs away with only 5 in Oregon). 4. With the standard heater, you have the option of using LP or 120v power. Our installation is a bit easier to use bypass valves since it is mounted under the galley sink. When I can get to our RV, I'll post a picture of the Truma installation. Maybe it will make it easier to understand; it makes more sense to me. Edit: here are pictures of the Truma AquaGo Comfort Plus installation, located under the galley sink of our Leisure Travel Vans Unity

Good point made . . . . . with the cost recovery from camping "free".

I agree - the #1 boondocking limitation is waste water capacity. 10 days seems to be the sweet spot for us in our current RV, with a much larger black tank capacity of 30gal), using holding tanks for flushing and occasional showers. I'm thinking 7 days in the Oliver. I find it helps to do dishes outside as I'm less apt to put water in the grey tank (reserved for showers). Use available vault toilets (we've noticed, with Covid precautions, these are much cleaner than otherwise) and reserve onboard toilet for nighttime use. If fresh water conservation is in order, we save dish rinse water for flushing. Think of it as tent camping with a comfortable bed and private toilet.

Not sure, but I think this thread implies that the ASI 335 sealant yellows? If so, what sealant (that does not yellow) is recommended

I agree . . . . . why have more solar output than you can use and/or the batteries can store? I'm thinking with four 6v AGMs with 340w solar we can manage just fine. Our only limitation is that we camp a lot in the PNW (vs desert SW). I do like the fact that lithium batteries recharge much quicker, though I don't know if the difference is enough to pay more.

Thanks for the info @ScubaRx So, it seems the cost/life of AGM vs Lithium is a wash, or at least not so much a factor to consider. Weight difference is substantial, but then I think it would be hard to exceed the GVW of the trailer, considering the onboard storage capacity. Not sure what you mean by, "But...there will be an additional solution to your flat panels in the near future". Perhaps you misunderstood: I was referring to the inefficient flush mount flexible panels glued to the top of our current RV. Sorry, I neglected to mention our camping style. Currently we are about 50/50 boondocking/hookups. That being said, the deciding factor is our power limitations. With very conservative power use, we can boondock about a week, stationary, with just occasional generator use. That being said, if we had more power available, we would do much more "off-grid" camping, since we like being where we can best enjoy nature. However, I expect more power wouldn't really extend the length of time we could boondock, but rather the increase the appliances we would be able to use during that time. Water seems to be the biggest factor in determining how long we can stay in one place without power. Even with available potable water, waste water storage is limiting and we don't want a composting toilet. With this in mind, I'm thinking "no" to the lithium upgrade. Although it would eliminate the worry about battery levels, I'm not sure the cost is warranted. Maybe someone will share their experience regarding the limits of onboard fresh water/waste water in a boondocking situation.

I'm excited about the Norcold fridge. Our current Dometic RMD8555 fridge performance is marginal, at best. Although the Norcold is smaller (4.5 vs. 6.7 cuft) I will be happy to have one that actually cools. The Dometic interior is very poorly designed for efficient storage. With the Norcold's smaller freezer compartment, the fridge section will probably old close to the same amount of food. 😄

I wish you lived in Oregon 😊

Take a number????? 😉

Anxiously awaiting 2021 TBD electrical configuration. I guess my question is: Does the inverter have an external switch, remote from the inverter itself? Our RV has a switch on the inverter power monitor in the control center. Maybe they all do.

We are still undecided on lithium pkg vs solar/AGM pkg. I calculate the cost difference at $3,600 (solar pkg + soft start = $5,400). Plus additional 1000w inverted power. So, is it worth an $3,600 to get lithium? My thoughts: 1. Do we need 1000w more inverted power? 2. AGM - 220 available ah (440ah @ 50% discharge) Lithium - 340 available ah (400ah 85% discharge) Would we use 120 additional ah? 3. Battery life: Lithium = 2x AGM life? 4. Cost of battery replacement - 2 lithium vs 4 AGM? 5. Weight - not sure of the differential between Oliver supplied 4 AGM and 2 Lithium 6. Maintenance, monitoring etc - no experience with lithium 7. Solar battery charging - our RV experience has been with 200w flat panel (inefficient?) solar panels with two 12v flooded house batteries, mostly in marginal sun exposure. This setup barely kept batteries topped off with basic onboard draws, including macerator toilet and no additional inverter usage. 8. High watt power usage would be appliances - toaster oven (1800w), inverter burner (100-1800w), electric kettle (1500w), hair dryer (1800w). No microwave and would use generator for necessary AC. Other power demands - lights, LP ignition, fans, water pump, cell phone and electronics charging, phantom draws. We only occasionally use TV. The additional power supplied by the lithium package is attractive, though I'm sure we could manage just fine without it; the solar package would certainly be a definite improvement over our current system. Is it worth $3,600 for power we might not use?

Are you saying the inverter has an on/off switch?