SNY SD UP

Craig & Rose, Congrats on your travel adventures & accomplishments. You have documented them well for all of us to follow. So when are you going to do Hawaii? (Has anyone ever OTT camped in Hawaii?) Let me know what route you will be taking. Since Sept '20, We have only the 11 western states, Newfoundland, Labrador & Nunavut remaining. The last one will be the toughest... no roads at this time. B~Out

I am not an electrician or an engineer, so I sometimes struggle with all this electrical talk. But that does not stop me from trying to understand all that I read... If I understand this thread, we are discussing two different scenarios; #1) CLEAN POWER at the POST, vs. #2) Handling power significant spikes/drops or power cycles (brown-outs?) enough to do damage to our trailers. Both can occur after the initial 'CLEAN POWER' test. For #1, I too have a 30a to 15a adapter, with a W.A. Sperry tester (like @mountainoliver) plugged into the 15a side. I always plug that into the post before connecting my OTT shore line. Most of the time I get the 'circuit OK' and I continue. If not OK, I try to resolve with the CG staff. Like @Mike and Carol I also have a 4-prong 50A to 3-prong 30A adapter, and have used it when 30a was dirty & 50a was clean. For #2, I do not have anything as of yet... But have been giving it more & more thought. This is why; During our last camping season, we were at a CG that had a fueled 'CG' wide large generator that was, to put it in crude but understandable terms... undulating. Maggie & I were walking around and when I heard that, I hurried to our trailer heard clicks in the walls and saw lights on/off on Xantrex, I then disconnected our shore power. Later when I talked to the CG staff, they said the generator had governor (i.e. undulating) issues, another said the demand exceeded the output, so it would idle down for a moment. IDK enough to know what it was, however I do know enough that I did not like the clicking & lights show in or trailer.. So I am wondering if I need to look at getting something that handles #2 OR if #2 can be further split between (2a) power spikes/drops and (2b) power cycles (brown-out?). Still trying to understand all that I have read above... So keep the dialog coming, and I will re-read & watch video's. B~Out

Yes, we also 'Had those Shims', found some on the floor below cabinets. Kind of reminded me of paint stir sticks. I removed ours, not really knowing what they were... I thought maybe temp spacers during assembly, and were left in there. I did save them, now I cannot find them, not in TT, must be in garage. I figured out what they were months later. However, have not had issues with drawers or slide/glides. all staying put. I do see where Metal Slide hdwe, may have some issues in the future, but no issues yet, and we have had travelled some rough roads. B~Out

This is what I found, when the MW stopped working, and I had to remove it. (not working was another issue). We have the High Pointe (see pic) MW, the faceplate has good attachment to the fiberglass/cabinet, no issues there. However you have to slide the MW out to get access to where the shroud is attached to the sides of the MW. Shroud has SHARP EDGES... We had (1) screw on each side of shroud holding it to the MW, (1) on bottom of cabinet, (1) somewhere between OTT assembly and Valdez AK... IMHO, These (see pic) were not really good screws to attach the shroud to the MW, they were counter-sinks so they would not be snug. All were all loose, having worked their way out partway. The screws on the front of the shroud were basically holding the MW in place. Opened up MW, Repaired the MW, Closed up MW. I replaced existing screws with some short panhead sheet metal screws with fatter threads, and some appropriate external tooth washers. I should have used regular nuts/bolts/washers & bolted the shroud to the MW but I just wanted to finish and get on with vacation. We will see. Getting the MW back into the compartment, and lined up and under that cam attached to the bolt that holds it in place at the rear of the cabinet was not easy, maybe an hour & half...

@routlaw you mean like this 'on the road repair' of drawer 'Rails & Slides' ??? A number of '(2) pre-drill holes' however 'with only (1) screw'... never did find the missing ones. The screws used should have been 1/4" longer. Not bad for a 76yo 6-5, I was further in before Maggie took the Pic, and of course Willis was right in there with me ‘Supervising’…

Tire Pressure and make sure your shocks are in good shape. I have found that most appliances in the OTT to be 'Metric threading', that is important when buying/replacing lost bolts/nuts. B~Out

Do not rule out National Parks. We have stayed at some that did not have site water or electric. You can (try to) make site reservations ahead of time, or some 'may' hold some sites for daily 'FCFS' (first come first serve), but with all FCFS, get there early, as they go fast. For example in ND, camping at Theodore Roosevelt National Parks, Juniper (North Unit) CG & Cottonwood (South Unit) CG. Both campgrounds are primitive (no hookups, no showers). However as compensation they do have Bison (i.e. Buffalo) wandering thru the CG. I can only speak for the North Unit (and I believe @Mike and Carol have stayed there). The South Unit has Medora, (a real treat for kids & some adults) and the 'Musical'. Lots of hiking & portions of the Maah Daah Hey Mountain (SERIOUS) Bike Trail. B~Out

Yes @Ronbrink has the right idea. You could probably make your own custom fit bungie... 1) some bungie shock cord, 2) some of those under the sheet garters with elastic straps between the metal clamps. Maggie recently bought some sheets (one R. & one L. opening) for our bedding, from, https://www.bunkbedsbunker.com/product/camp-bed-sheets/ The only issue, is the KTT mattress are too thick for them to stay 'snugged in'. We ordered 6" depth, probably should have been 8". they make > 8", but with a $20 up charge. So I will be making our own bungie from some shock cord, and use the sheet garters we already have, and see how that works. B~Out

Art & D would be ..--- ..--- -.... Sorry, But I digress from the original post topic. B~Out

Very ingenious 1504

I just saw this on a news feed I get. https://products.buybedscrunchie.com/en/pre-1.html?loader=1&Affid=20827&s1=&s2=&s3=&s4=7424&s5=9bf83aa218f7436e97aca7abbd709e52&domain1=www.djpcraze.com&network_id=69 Do not own one, do not know how well they work, probably will not buy one, seeing as though Maggie bought sheets already. If i find out where she bought them, i will post here. maybe you could even make your own... Hope the video comes thru. B~Out

Where was this Dometic Repair shop located?

To All, Mine were abraded somewhere within the axle tube in the middle between the hubs. There was about 12' of wire stuffed in the axle between the hubs. Mike T. & I were in discussion, as we both had this issue at overlapping times. I believe I was just further in the process when we discussed. I will include pics (of both dbl. insulated wires) of where abrading exposed to the bare copper within the two insulations. I did not remember to label front & rear. It was explained to me that the during the forming of the axle tubes (and this may vary depending upon manufacturer) the inside of some may get a robotic welding, as well as the outside. the outside of course is smoothed off and painted. The inside, depending on the process may get a smoothing, however most of them are left with weld spatter inside so the axle tube on the inside resembles a concave wood rasp... just what we do NOT want to house our brake wires. Mine actually look like they were somehow pinched, or maybe during the shorting out process heated up enough to melt(?) the insulation near the abrasions. So I went straight to a previously read article by Prof. JED, Emeritus, which dealt with replacing the brake wiring. I ran my newly purchased (NAPA Shielded Brake Cable) wires outside the Axle Tubes, putting them thru a loom at about 9 o'clock (to the rear) to protect from rocks or other strikes. Using butt-splice connectors from the Shielded Brake Cable wires to the leads going into the brakes, then buttered the connectors up with adhesive-sealant to further protect connectors from moisture. I have some ZIP TIES (I've been told, like the ones 'LE' uses on your wrists...) which are 1/2" wide and abt 1/8" thick, and used those secure the loom to the axles. At least that was my approach at the time, as I wanted to get back to camping. The Brakes have worked as they should. B~Out

Thank Gawd, this procedure was explained. I envisioned struggling holding the fridge on my shoulder, whilst walking up-down the runway, patting it on its back. B~Out

Skipster, One issue I have with the Battery Tray is one side catches easily when pushing it in, the other side does not and i have to make an additional effort for it to latch properly. if you have this issue, could that have sprung your Battery Door at the hinge. Your post makes me want to examine my Batt Door hinge, when the offending side does not catch. And Craig's post makes me want to check my rivets on the door sides and monitor going forward. B~Out