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Chukarhunter

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  1. We have the standard floor plan so no nightstand. We use one of these and plug it into the cigarette lighter port above the stove. It has a Type C 30 watt fast charging port, two USB ports, plus you don't lose your cigarette lighter port so in theory you can charge 4 items at the same time. It has a continuous readout of battery voltage as well. I typically charge my dog tracking collar, phone (fast charge) and Garmin InReach through it at the same time. It has worked just fine so far.
  2. I am a fellow cold weather camper and considered doing that as well but decided that doing so would result in insufficient total free air flow from the furnace likely leading to furnace heat exchanger overheating and short-cycling of the furnace. To work properly, the manual says the furnace needs a minimum of 25 sq. inches of unobstructed supply duct airflow. A 4 inch flex duct has 12.56 sq. inches of airflow as it leaves the furnace. Since there are only two supply ducts from the furnace, both must be completely unobstructed to achieve 25 sq. inches of unobstructed airflow. All duct work creates friction and turbulence which reduces the free flow of air. Rigid duct minimizes restriction of airflow but the flimsy flex duct used in the Oliver really reduces airflow in anything but short absolutely straight runs. Dedicating one 4 inch duct to a long run to to the bathroom would cause such a restriction that the furnace would be subject to short cycling and poor heating performance. I am sure that is why Oliver put the splitter into the long duct run to the bathroom so it feeds two registers, one being closer to the furnace. To further complicate things, in my LE II, Oliver put a reducer behind the bathroom register that necks it down from a 4 inch duct to a 3 inch duct further restricting airflow into the bathroom. They may have done this to make it feel like there was more air blowing into the bathroom (higher velocity but lower volume). I don't thing changing this from a 3 inch to a 4 inch would make much difference though, given the long duct run to the bathroom. I really wanted to turn my bathroom run into a straight, untapped duct run to the bathroom (i.e., eliminate the splitter) but determined it would not be acceptable without adding a third duct run off of the furnace, but that is next to impossible to do in my LE II, given the way Oliver installed the furnace in a vertical orientation. The furnace can be installed vertically or on its side. If Oliver had installed the furnace on its side, it would have been easy to run a third duct off of the furnace. It is not feasible to make that change now. I think probably the best that can be done now is to add a return air vent to the bathroom and add ventilation between the bathroom and main cabin as you are planning. I am getting ready to add a return vent to the bathroom in my LE II. I will probably put it in the recessed front of the vanity behind the towel bar, so that return air will directly warm the plumbing under the bathroom sink.
  3. I swapped my supply flex ducts around at the furnace exactly as you did. I also improved on the 180 degree "crushed" flex duct turn at the same time. I could not find any adjustable hard elbows that would work as John suggests so I used a hard flexible dryer duct that is very short from the package, almost like rigid duct, but is expandable and bendable. I used all of it without expanding it beginning with a large 15 inch diameter 180 degree turn at the furnace then ran it as far forward as it would go without expanding it. It almost reached the diverter and then like you, I shortened the existing flex duct and clamped it and taped it to the new aluminum duct. As you discovered, switching the duct runs around at the furnace increases the air flow to the bathroom but adding the lazy aluminum duct for the hard turn made for a noticeable additive increase in air flow forward as well.
  4. I too usually crack the Maxxair unit slightly and open the rear streetside window slightly to reduce condensation in cold weather. A warning though; I learned the hard way that you should never open the curbside window when using the furnace because the furnace combustion exhaust is located immediately below the window. I cracked the curbside window above my head once while sleeping on a cold windless night and woke up about 2:00 am with a strong smell of furnace exhaust in the trailer. I won't make that mistake again. I also don't crack the streetside dinette window when it is cold due to the fact it has the potential to confuse the thermostat, hence I open the rear streetside window.
  5. It sounds like you may have been running off of only one propane tank at a time since you said one was depleted and the other was full. When it is very cold outside it is best to draw propane from both of your propane tanks at the same time. It is the expanding propane gas that draws heat out of the propane tank causing it to become much colder than the outside air temperature. By splitting the total propane drawn between two tanks instead of one, each tank loses heat at half the rate of a single tank and this will make a big difference in how cold the tanks will get . I believe that pointing the lever on the propane tank regulating valve straight up will cause the valve to pass propane from both tanks at the same time (make sure both tanks are turned on). If the valve is pointing to the tank on the right, it will only draw propane from the right tank even if both tanks are turned on. Same for pointing the lever to the left tank. Point it straight up which is halfway between each tank and it should draw from both tanks simultaneously. Someone correct me if I have this wrong. It is possible that drawing propane from both tanks will reduce the heat loss from the propane tanks sufficiently to negate the need for a heated tank blanket when running the furnace in very cold weather, at least at temperatures above O degrees F.
  6. I have found that it is not difficult to loosen the nuts to put slack in the chains when needed. I have done so without even using a ratchet handle on the socket to adjust the nuts. OTT supplies a large socket and I am usually able to tighten or loosen the nuts with with only my hand around the socket. Just use the front tongue jack to raise the trailer tongue while still attached to the tow vehicle until the chains start to slacken. Then loosen the nuts and lower the tongue back down and the chains should now remain slack. Be sure to count the threads showing before loosening the nuts which makes it easy to tighten them back to where they need to be when the time comes. Reverse the process to tighten them again. Jack up the tongue again (while still hooked to the ball) and tighten the nuts until the proper number of threads are showing. Then reverse the tongue jack to lower the tongue back down and you are good to go. I have found it only takes a few minutes to loosen or tighten both nuts if you raise the tongue to take pressure off the chains. OTT demonstrated this technique when I picked up our LE II. Raising the tongue while still attached to the tow vehicle also allows you to routinely hitch and unhitch the trailer (i.e., attach/detach the whale tail) without ever having to adjust the nuts. If the road is so terribly rough that loosening the chains will not provide for sufficient articulation, you are probably pushing the ability of the bulldog hitch to articulate sufficiently, even with the Anderson disconnected.
  7. Looks like UW colors on the Oliver. Shouldn't have to worry about anyone stealing it!🙂
  8. I have not resolved the issue permanently but I have made enough adjustments that I am not too concerned about temperatures down to about 15 degrees. My LE II is hull 657 and when I am running the furnace I open the round access hatch under the pantry ((for inverter access) and that makes a huge difference. I am not sure your LE II has an access hatch under the pantry like mine. I also modified the hot air supply vent under the sink/microwave by removing the movable baffle that formerly constricted airflow out of the vent. This allows much more warm air to be blown forward in the cabin and mix with other cabin air before returning to the furnace through the vent under the bed. It takes 15 seconds to remove the movable damper in the vent. It made a huge difference. I think OTT put the movable damper in to try to force more air to the bathroom but it doesn't really help in that respect and instead reduces the total supply vents in square inches to less than required by the furnace manufacturer. A recipe for short cycling. You can also open a drawer or two by an inch which will allow air to flow through the back of the drawer cabinet and down into the basement when it drops below freezing (there is a large cutout behind the drawers to allow access to the sink plumbing). Again, your LE II may be different than mine. The only permanent fix is to add return vents forward in the cabin and in the bathroom, and reduce the size of the return vent under the bed. You should read the thread below that is currently active on the forum. It has a lot of information relevant to your issue with good input and advice from many contributors to this forum. Just click on the pic below. Good luck. You have an outstanding trailer. I just wish OTT would acknowledge the issue and develop a recommended fix for customers based on input from a professional HVAC engineer. Most of us are not comfortable winging it and cutting holes in our Oliver without guidance from the factory.
  9. I would advise against using closed cell foam to plug the vents underneath the trailer. The foam is semi-permanent and can't be removed from the bug screens on the inside of the vent at all if you needed to. If you ever get water in the basement, the holes are the only way for it to escape. I would suggest making a small ball of HVAC putty and place it in the vent opening, being careful not to push it in too far into the screen. The putty does not harden and can be flicked out with a screwdriver when you want to open the vents for ventilation. I personally like the vents open anytime the temperatures are not going below freezing.
  10. A long-shot but the stats above suggest to me that you may be experiencing a furnace air circulation problem in addition to any thermostat issues. I am guessing that you have the standard bed option and that you are testing your furnace with the bed made up. If this is not the case, please disregard this post as it isn't relevant to you. However, for others with the standard bed option, understanding my experience may be helpful. Your furnace is running about 66% of the time and is off only about 34% of the time. This seems like a lot of furnace on-time when it is 26 degrees outside. Off 4.04 On 9.36 Off 2.59 On 8.53 Off 5.41 On 7.42 Off 5.34 On 9.33 Off 3.49 On 7.55 Off 3.17 On 9 Off 2.23 26.27 51.19 34% 66% I experienced a similar problem with my LE II with the standard bed made up, although the outside temperature was up in the 40s. The problem was the furnace was running hard and short cycling, having trouble raising the temperature at the thermostat to merely 60 degrees. After getting out of bed, I realized that the temperature in the space under the bed was at least 85 degrees. I diagnosed the problem was the location of the single return air vent in my LE II that is located in the rear curbside corner of the trailer way back under the bed. It turns out, all of the hot air coming out of the two supply vents was being immediately sucked under the bed through the singe air return vent and back to the furnace and was not mixing with the remaining air in the cabin. Not only did this result in the rest of the trailer heating up very slowly, but the air from the furnace supply vents became very hot until the temperature over-limit switch in the furnace shut it down. Given the above stats, and assuming you have the standard floor plan and the bed is made up, it would be easy to test if you are experiencing this problem. Just rerun the test above, but remove a cushion on the front dinette and open the hatch wide. (also make sure your supply vents are angled forward so the warm air is not directed under the bed). This test condition will result in most of the return air to the furnace traveling through the open hatch and not under the bed, allowing the warm air from the furnace to mix with the cabin air (and thermostat) before returning the the furnace. If you experience a more balanced operation of the furnace on-off times resulting from this test, you have found at least part of your problem. This could actually be causing the problem with your thermostat as well. The Dometic thermostat anticipates when it needs to come on to maintain a temperature at no less than 2 degrees from the set-point. It actually remembers how fast the trailer cooled off previously and adjusts furnace restart time accordingly. If you have the air circulation problem I describe above, then the temperature around the thermostat is going to fall fast when the furnace turns off, even if the area under the bed is still a balmy 80 degrees. The thermostat "learns" that it needs to run almost constantly to maintain temperature within two degrees of the set-point at the thermostat. The clicking you hear may actually be coming from the furnace and not the air conditioner (mine was). This can happen when the furnace shuts off originally due to overheating of the heat exchanger, and the furnace igniter tries to restart the furnace before the heat exchanger has cooled sufficiently that the safety cutoff switch opens to allow the furnace to actually ignite again. This will generate a continuous, noisy clicking noise.
  11. It does sound baffling. You indicated that you did a load test on the two "suspect batteries". You may want to also load test the other two batteries as part of your continued troubleshooting. Good luck.
  12. The method (hack?) I chose to seal the battery door vents was quick and temporary until I get around to a more permanent solution. I just taped over the four vents on the inside of the door with wide white tape of the kind that is used to tape insulation around metal duct work and water heaters. You can't see the tape from the outside so it is not unsightly and does seal off the air flow. I then cut a piece of reflectix insulation to fit the inside of the battery door 1/2 inch , smaller around than the door, cut a hole so the reflectix would fit over the lock mechanism, and then taped the reflectix insulation onto the backside of the door with Frog Tape completely around the outer edge. It has lasted almost two years and worked well enough that I have not been motivated to do a more professional job. There have been posts with pictures in the past on this forum by folks that did a professional job at sealing the vents and insulating the door itself. I searched awhile and couldn't find them, but I will bet someone else on the forum remembers this and will post a link to the thread(s). They did it right. I have yet to insulate the storage door but it is on my to do list. Steve
  13. You might try changing the fan speed setting on the thermostat from "Auto" to "High" (see instructions) and see if the problem(s) go away. Assuming you have the suburban furnace, the furnace fan must always run at "high" speed anyway. The "auto" fan speed setting is only relevant when using certain air conditioners/heat pumps.
  14. Don't forget about the Truma water heater if you will have one. Running the furnace while traveling will not protect the Truma in sub-freezing temperatures. Make sure the Truma is set to Eco when traveling in below freezing temps (propane) or alternatively, activate the electric antifreeze heating element in the Truma (preferred) if you ordered the option. Make sure OTT has actually installed the antifreeze kit when you pick up the trailer and make sure they explain how to insert the exhaust plug and set the control to electric antifreeze when you travel in sub-freezing weather. (And don't forget to remove the Truma exhaust plug before switching the Truma back to propane when you arrive at your destination.)
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