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Chukarhunter

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Chukarhunter last won the day on February 25

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  1. The only settings I had to change in my 2000W inverter/charger was to change the charge setting from flooded batteries to a LFPO4 charging profile. Our early versions of the 2,000 watt model did not have a LFPO4 setting to switch to so I selected the "custom" battery option. I then set the custom absorption voltage to 14.6 volts (as recommended by the battery manufacturer) and I was done. The main reason you need to adjust the absorption voltage to a 14.4-14.6 volt level (consult your battery manufacturer for their preferred setting) is that the LFPO4 batteries require a higher voltage than flooded batteries to reach full charge, compared to the flooded or AGM batteries. To be confident how to do this with your model of converter/charger, you really need to consult the "Optional Equipment" manual that came with your Oliver. I just looked on the Oliver University and the factory manual they have posted is apparently a mid-2020 updated manual that appears to reflect a firmware upgrade to the units we have, since the manual on the Oliver site displays a LFPO4 setting in the menu, which my 2020 version does not show in the menu and definitely did not have. I would post a picture of my settings table from my manual, but it is across town in storage. PM me if you want me to retrieve my manual and post a copy of the settings menu here. I would be happy to do so.
  2. The remote display I have is part of Xantrex inverter/charger model that I have, not the PD Charger/Converter. When I elected the 2000 watt inverter/charger option, the factory kept the PD Converter/charger in place to serve as the breaker/fuse panel, but disabled the converter/charger function and instead wired the 2000 watt inverter/charger into the PD circuit/fuse panel. You would not need to change any settings to use a 1,000 watt generator to charge your AGM batteries since your converter/charger is has its own built in charging limit of 45 or 60 amps depending on the model. A 1,000 watt generator should be capable of charging the batteries at 60 amps since this will effectively limit the draw on the generator to about 840 watts (14 volts x 60 amps = 840 watts.) I you upgrade to lithium batteries, then you have two choices. You can replace your existing PD converter/charger with a more up to date version of the same model that has a lithium ion charging profile option built in. This is the lowest cost option, but you will be limited to a maximum charging current of 60 amps split among all your batteries . A superior solution but more expensive solution would be to keep your current PD converter/charger but upgrade your inverter to a 3,000 watt inverter/charger. The 3,000 watt inverter charger that Oliver installs can charge your batteries at a rate as high as 150 amps, thereby charging your batteries 2 1/2 times as fast as a 60 amp charger when you are connected to shore power. To charge with a generator at the 150 amp rate, you would likely need a generator that outputs a minimum of 2200 MW continuous, more if you want to simultaneously use any 120 volt appliances at the same time. I hope this is helpful.
  3. Sorry that I may have added to the confusion. Apparently, the 2000 watt inverter installed in the 2018 Oliver was an inverter only without a battery charger built in. The 2000 watt inverter installed in my 2020 LE II is an inverter/charger. That is why I have a more sophisticated wall panel with led readout. In your 2018 Oliver, the batteries are charged by the Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger under the dinette that also serves as the 12volt and 120 volt service panel (breakers and fuses). The PD Converter/Charger in your trailer has a fixed maximum charging rate of either 45 amps or 60 amps depending upon what model Oliver installed. The PD Converter/charger is perfectly adequate if you have lead/acid batteries or AGMs and charging at the maximum charging rate of 60 amps should not overtax a 1000 watt generator. If you ever upgraded to lithium ion batteries though, you would need to replace the PD converter/charger with a charger that offers a lithium ion charging profile built in. Progressive Dynamics makes one that is a drop in replacement for the one you have. Alternatively, you can install an updated combined converter/charger to charge your batteries and then bypass the charger in the PD Converter. That is what the factory did in my 2020 LE II. I do have a background in grid scale power and high voltage transmission, but the information above I learned the hard way when I switched out my lead acid batteries for LFP04 lithiums right after I picked up my 2020 LE II. Oliver started offering the lithium option in mid-model year about a month after I took delivery of mine so I had to figure it out myself. Information on this forum helped me out considerably.
  4. I have the Xantrex PROwatt 2000 inverter in my 2020 LE II. It has Charge Current setting just like the 3000 watt version. The max charge current in the 2000 watt inverter is 80 amps (as opposed to 150 amps in the 3,000 watt inverter.) To set the charge current limit to less than the factory default of 80 amps, you just need to go into the inverter panel on the wall of the Oliver, enter into configuration mode, scroll to setting # 24 Charge Current, and change the setting. It only takes a minute or two. It is certainly not as easy as using a bluetooth app and I often have to refer to the manual again because the exact sequence of button pushing is easy to forget. But it works just the same as in the 2000 watt inverter.
  5. With no offense intended, I believe there is some questionable advice in this thread. In particular, it is counterintuitive to me that reducing the input amperage to the inverter is the best way to limit the level of charging current that the inverter is delivering into the batteries, especially when the inverter has a setting (#24) designed specifically for that function. Wandering Sage Brush is apprehensive about using the smaller Honda 1000 to charge his house batteries while boondocking. There is nothing to be nervous about as many of us do it all the time. The only issue you need to be aware of is ensuring that the combination of trailer loads (120 volt loads and 12 volt charging load) is less than the maximum output of the generator. If you try to run higher loads (i.e., greater watts) than the generator can produce, the generator will overload and shut down. The table above showing inverter settings are for a 3,000 watt inverter. Setting 28 is factory defaulted to 25 amps because 25 amps * 120 volts = 3,000 watts. If you lower the amperage limit in Setting 28 down to lets say 15 amps, you are turning your 3,000 watt inverter into an 1800 watt inverter because 15 amps * 120 volts = 1800 watts. There is no need to do that. If you want to charge your batteries with a 1000 watt generator, then you need to limit the draw on the generator to less than 1,000 watts. If you want all the available 1,000 watts to go into your batteries, then there are two steps you need to take when you decide to charge. First is to turn off your inverter and any 120 volt loads if you want to all the generator output to go into your batteries. You don't want any 120 volt trailer loads drawing on the generator at the same time you are charging the batteries. Second, you need to reduce the amperage limit in Setting #24: Charger Current. The charger typically charges at about 14 volts when the batteries are getting close to full. Since volts x amps = watts, 1000 watts into the batteries is going to require 71 amps of Charge Current (14 volts * 71 amps = 1,000 watts) . Adjusting for losses and generator derating at altitude and in higher temperatures, you should probably limit the watts from the generator at no more than 900 watts which equates to 64 amps (900 watts / 14 volts = 64 amps). So whatever inverter/charger you have, set the max charging current at 60 amps and your Honda EU1000 will probably charge just fine without overloading. If you are running the Honda 1000 and you are also getting 20 amps from your solar panels at the same time, then you will be putting 80 amps into the batteries (60 amps from the generator and 20 amps from the solar). This is equal to 1,120 watts (80 amps x 14 volts = 1,120 watts) You can leave the Charge Current setting at 60 amps all the time if you want unless you want your batteries to charge faster when you are on shore power. If so, just increase the max charging amps in setting # 24 before you go back on shore power.
  6. I picked up one of these relatively inexpensive generator test kits a while back. It lets you verify both generator voltage and also how many watts and amps the generator is actually generating at site conditions (altitude and temperature) with the clamp meter. This can help you rule out generator issues. It comes with a test pigtail to make measurement easy. (see pictures below). You can find it at Microair .net
  7. I worry about Oliver owners with the Suburban furnace that close any heat vents (supply vents) in the trailer. This is almost always detrimental to the functioning a an HVAC system but in the case of my generation of the LE II it can be dangerous. According to my furnace manual, the furnace requires 25 square inches of unobstructed hot air venting to work properly. Even a few feet of lightweight flex duct will restrict airflow and any bends in the flex duct will restrict airflow even more. The two 4" round supply ducts in the Oliver total exactly 25 sq. inches at the furnace so technically, when the runs of flex duct are considered, Oliver has not ensured sufficient airflow for the furnace to operate at its best as it is. (An analogy would be someone that exceeds the GVWR of their tow vehicle). Closing one of the two cabin vents inevitably causes a sharp increase in back pressure against the furnace fan with the result that the fan cannot move as much air across the heat exchanger and into the cabin. The result is hotter air coming out of the remaining open vent but less Btu's in total flowing into the cabin, and the likely overheating of the heat exchanger resulting in the furnace shutting down prematurely (short cycling). In milder weather, this might not be noticeable but it is dangerous in colder weather because if the high temperature limit switch in the furnace ever fails, there is a serious risk of a fire. The only safe way to increase the flow of hot air into the Oliver's cabin is to increase the number or size of return vents, which will reduce cabin pressurization when the furnace is running and thereby enable the furnace to move more air (and Btu's) through and out of the supply ducts. In my experience, the key to comfort and balanced heating in the Oliver along with a warm bathroom is to ensure that all the hot air from the cabin must flow through the entire basement on its way back to the furnace, thereby heating the entire basement as well as the cabin. This requires additional return vents in the middle and front (bathroom) of the cabin.
  8. Your observations on the inferior design of the HVAC (furnace) "system" is spot on. I think Oliver has maybe not given this issue sufficient design attention because a large proportion of Oliver Owners probably winterize their trailers and don't care much about the furnace. I use my Oliver throughout the year, store outside, and do not winterize. My primary concern is the ability to keep the plumbing from freezing even when the cabin is warm. I have placed internet connected thermometers in the basement by the outside shower hoses and other spots, and found that the basement temperatures can fall to 30 degrees or more below the cabin temperatures when outside air temps drop into the low 20's or teens. I found that if the outside temperatures go very much below freezing, I have to keep the cabin at least 65 degrees to keep most of the basement areas (except for right around the furnace itself) above freezing. I determined the problem is insufficient warm air circulation through the basement (i.e., no return air vents in the front of the trailer (bathroom). Oliver did add a small return air vent in the bathroom in more recent models. I have resisted running new ductwork or cutting holes in the trailer to address this while I studied the issue in the field. Finally, and just recently, I tried a non-invasive hack that appears upon initial testing to work quite well. The outside temperatures last week dipped into the mid-teens for several days, yet my basement temps stayed within 15 degrees of the cabin temps (the Oliver was in outside storage). I am heading out next week and will test the cabin and bathroom comfort in temperatures expected to be just below freezing, and I expect to find a much warmer bathroom and more comfortable trailer, as well as the warmer basement temps. What I finally did was easy. I removed the "front bottle plate" from the bathroom vanity and disconnected the flex duct from the bathroom vent, creating a 3'' (or 4") return air vent in the bathroom. I then left the disconnected air duct loose under the sink to put extra heat into the front of the basement. Combined with the new return air vent in the bathroom, the warm cabin air flows forward into the bathroom and the warm air bathroom air is pulled under the bathroom and shower to be slowly circulated from front of the basement to the back of the basement when the furnace fan is running, more effectively heating all the plumbing and battery box. I do need to keep the bathroom door cracked (but not open) for this to work, unless or until I install a vent between the bathroom and main cabin. I am not sure if a functional return vent like this would cause problems in Olivers with the composting toilet. I have the standard toilet.
  9. Humor notwithstanding, I believe this is the correct answer. It is not complicated. First, lets look at what happens when you connect to shore power 30 amp receptacle. In this normal situation, the 30 amp shore power outlet will pass a maximum of 3,600 watts continuous power to your Ollie (30 amps x 120 volts = 3,600 watts). If you turn on too many appliances in the Ollie (including battery charger and air conditioner, fridge, etc.) such that you are consuming more than 3.600 watts, then the 30 amp breaker on the shore power receptacle will likely trip. It is difficult but not impossible to to draw more than 3,600 watts in the Ollie but could happen if the batteries were charging at a 150 amp rate consuming 2,100 watts (150 amps x 14 volts =2,100), and you turned on the microwave at 1,000 watt setting, and turned on the air conditioner all at the same time, you would be trying to draw more than 4,000 watts from the 30 amp shore power outlet and the 30 amp breaker in the shore power post will trip. The only thing different when you connect to a 20 amp shore power outlet is the shore power outlet will only pass a maximum of 2,400 watts before the 20 amp breaker protecting the shore power outlet will trip. In this case, you need to be diligent to keep your continuous consumption in the Ollie to less than 2,400 watts. This is easy to do if you change the charger setting to something lower than 150 amp maximum charging rate. I almost always choose to connect to the 20 amp shore power outlet when I am just stopping for the night somewhere and not unhitching. It is less work than to having to dig into the back of the basement to retrieve the heavy 30 amp cord and put it away later. Instead, I quickly plug in using a 25 foot lightweight 12 AWG extension cord with a 20 amp to 30 amp adapter. It allows me to simultaneously charge the batteries at 80 amps (1,120 watts, the maximum my 2,000 watt inverter will do) run the air conditioner or microwave at reduced power, and watch the 120 volt TV all simultaneously without drawing more than 20 amps of shore power. I can also run all 12 volt loads (e.g., furnace, lights, water pump, etc.) that I want without increasing the draw on shore power since all 12 volt loads draw their power from the batteries. The next morning, it takes me only two minutes to disconnect and stow the 12 AWG extension cord in the back of the TV. As Rolind said above, you will probably need to back down the maximum charge rate limit setting on your charger if you connect to only 20 amps, depending on what other 120 volt loads you want to run simultaneously in the Ollie.
  10. ICE engines will fade from vehicles, but hopefully ground based ICE generators will expand in rural areas to support grid-independent DC fast charging facilities. Using technology available today, these hybrid renewable EV fueling complexes can be built with a combination of on-site solar and/or wind power, some flow battery storage, and ICE generators with on-site fuel storage. The ICE generators would burn locally produced renewable diesel (not biodiesel) made with agricultural or forest biomass. All at lower cost than today’s grid-connected fast chargers that rely on expensive, increasingly unreliable grid supplied energy. And unlike every charging station in place today, these chargers would continue to work when the grid goes down. Rural economies would be the big winners.
  11. Looks like my Gold 4Runner pulling the LE II. Gonna have to try that!
  12. I would be concerned if the GFCI on a house outlet tripped when connecting the Ollie, period. The inverter/charger by itself will not cause a GFCI outlet to trip at the house. A properly functioning GFCI will only trip if it detects a current leakage to ground, a situation that is not wise to ignore. Your problem may be with the GFCI receptacle you are otherwise using. You mentioned that your GFCI is only rated to pass 15 amps of current. Your GFCI is not rated to pass a 20 amp current to the Ollie. I would suggest you install a 20 amp WR (outdoor rated) GFCI and see if that solves the problem. It worked for me. This is the 20 amp WR GFCI that I installed to connect house power to my Ollie. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFWT2-W-SmartlockPro-Weather-Resistant-Tamper-Resistant/dp/B013OVCTBO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=21PT35NK7I73G&keywords=outdoor%2Brated%2B20%2Bamp%2Bgfci%2Boutlet&qid=1699985721&sprefix=outdoor%2Brated%2B20%2Bamp%2Bgfci%2Boutlet%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-1&th=1
  13. There appears to be some confusion around setting number 28 which is a dedicated internal circuit breaker for the 3000 watt inverter. The factory setting must stay at 25 amps because it requires at least 20 amps of 120 volt input current to charge the batteries at the factory default 150 amp charging rate. Stated differently and ignoring losses, the inverter requires a minimum of 2,100 watts of 120 volt shore power to achieve the 150 amp charging rates (150 amps x 14 volts = 2,100 watts). 2,100 watts of 120 volt power results in a shore power draw of 17.5 amps (2100 watts / 120 volts = 17.5 amps). If setting #28 is set to only 15 amps, I believe that it is guaranteed the inverter will shut down and not charge the batteries. Once the battery charging stops, the inverter will after awhile reset, restore shore power and start charging the batteries again. The inverter starts charging the batteries at a low rate initially and slowly ramps up the charging voltage until it reaches a steady state 150 amp charging rates. If setting #28 remains at 15 amps, then it will never reach 150 amps charge rate because shore power will shut down again and the cycle will repeat itself over and over. OTT should verify the above, but I don't believe there is ever a reason to reduce the AC input limit in the inverter/charger to below 25 amps. Rivernerd's advice to use an extension cord with a higher amperage rating is excellent advice in all situations. The reason is to reduce voltage drop. The footnote to the table above that rich.dev posted states that the inverter will trip shore power and switch to battery power if the shore power voltage drops below 106 volts. An undersized extension cord can cause significant voltage drop. For example, assume the voltage into the house from the utility is 118 volts. Further assume that there is an unusually long 75 foot run of 12 AWG romex from the breaker box in the house to the wall outlet feeding the extension cord to the trailer. In this example, the voltage at the wall outlet has already dropped by 6 volts to only 111.96 volts, merely due to the 75 foot run from the breaker box to the wall outlet, assuming a 20 amp current draw at the outlet. Now lets assume that you use a 12 AWG (20 amp) extension cord between the wall outlet and the Ollie. Adding the additional 50 feet of 12 AWG extension cord will further reducevoltage at the Ollie by an additional 4 volts to only 108 volts. Everything should still work fine. However, if one were to use a 14 AWG extension cord instead of a 12 AWG extension cord, the voltage at the Ollie will drop to only 105.8 volts and will cause the inverter to cut off shore power (and battery charging) because it is less than 106 volts. While this situation is unusual and situation specific, everyone should probably own a "kill a watt" or similar meter to quickly eliminate voltage concerns. This can be inserted between the extension cord and the Ollie plug to observe real time voltage and power consumption into the Ollie. They are only $30 or less and have many beneficial uses around the house besides measuring voltage. https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU?th=1
  14. I too found it necessary to hook up the signal booster to my Tiretraker to prevent "lost signal "alarms. I attached a 12 volt male cigarette lighter plug to the signal booster and when I tow, I plug it into a receptacle in the rear of my vehicle and secure it to the side with a piece of velcro tape. It is easy to remove and store when not towing. This approach should work in any of the cigarette lighter ports in the Oliver as well and only takes a few minutes to set up. No trailer wiring involved.
  15. Iphone owners can use the built-in app that measures slope in all directions and reads out the degrees of slope. It is accurate.
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