Overland

Thanks Dave, I’ll have to order some of those to keep handy. I wonder if that might help with attaching the flexible window gutters.

Well at least they narrowed it down to one quarter of the trailer for you.

I can have it shipped, but none of my local Home Depots keep it in stock. I wonder if it's a regional thing.

Thanks Shirley, that's good info. You're right about not being able to find the black ABS pipe anywhere. I've tried all the plumbing supply places in town and haven't been able to locate any.

Glad you got it to work. I've now uploaded it to youtube as well in case anyone else is having trouble getting it to play. You may want to view this full screen or on youtube in theater mode to be able to read the text.

Nice job, John, and great writeup. I debated placing my cutoff where it's more easily accessible but my wife vetoed that idea pdq. I considered actually doing a Blue Sea 360 panel that had cutoffs for both the batteries and solar, manual transfer switch for my charger, and breakers in place of the 12 volt fuse panel, but geez the cost of that was astronomical, not to mention the time to rewire everything. And again, my wife just doesn't appreciate the aesthetic of visible electronic equipment, even if it's marine grade.

FYI -

There was a post recently about not being able to create a poll on the forum. The poll function is available, but it isn't necessarily intuitive. Here's a video showing the process: Screen Recording 2020-07-28 at 10.36.31 AM.mov

I’ve got one in storage, too. We need to come up with an alternate use for those things.

The two hulls - standard and twin - are identical save for the nightstand and bed rails, which are attached separately. So a standard plan with bed rails and a twin plan without the nightstand would be identical. And yes, there is a hatch underneath. There was some talk either here or at the last rally about Oliver trying to work out a unified plan where the nightstand could be removed and used as part of the support for a king bed. No idea if there’s any truth behind that, but it’s an interesting exercise to consider how that might work.

Exactly.

Careful, she’s an English teacher - you might owe her a three page essay if you don’t watch out.

I don’t think that there’s any additional reinforcement, but I don’t know if it would be needed either. I say go for it.

Yes, it's a separate piece - they caulk the front edge to hide the joint. I've never actually tried to take it off so they may also glue it in addition to the screws, but I doubt it.

I don't know if there's an option to delete it, but I believe it's just four screws to remove. You can also mount it to the side - Oliver's default location is baffling.

I've had two gelcoat repairs done at the factory. One of them matches perfectly and the other is a slight bit yellower. Fortunately the yellower one is on the roof, so I only see it when I wash the trailer. And I think that's what Oliver will tell you - that it's a bit hit and miss with the color matching. In fact, that's exactly what they've told me. Apart from Oliver, any marine fiberglass repair shop could also do the work, with probably the same disclaimer on color matching.

None of that was there. Just a hole in the fiberglass. I don’t even think the black tank had a hole cut.

That looks like a strong flange, but I wonder if that rubber funnel would seal tightly enough for RV use.

There's another option, which is to click on the blue + to the left of the Quote button. Click the + on both posts that you want to quote (you have to go back to the original post of the embedded quote). You can click as many posts as you want to add. A blue Quote box will pop up on the lower left once you click the first +. When you've selected everything you want to quote, click the blue Quote pop-up and both quotes will be added to your reply. Now, to embed the earlier post into the other, click on the other little + that pops up when you hover the mouse over the quote block. (It's actually two little crossed arrows, but it looks like a +). Then drag the post into the other one. It sounds confusing, but it's actually simple. I'll see if I can make a video of it. Screen Recording 2020-07-27 at 10.39.13 AM.mov

If you’re concerned about lightning, then I understand, but personally I’d consider it a good opportunity to test the weather tightness of the trailer. Plus it’s hard to recommend skipping your shakedown. I only live three hours from the factory but it’s still a pain to go back. Not that I don’t enjoy my visits. 😜 I’d also second what Nancy just posted. If you aren’t used to towing, the first trip can be a little nervy, so planning to do it in the rain and rush hour might not be a good idea. If you’re a seasoned tower though, no big deal. I’d contact your salesperson and ask how long they usually schedule for PDI. I’d also ask how many others are picking up that day. If they’re busy, it might limit the amount of time you have to get used to the trailer before taking off.

One thought is to remove the screws and see. Another is that like the op, you’re probably better off just buying a stainless ring to go over it, so there’s no need to remove it. https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-42778-Grommets-4-Inch-Stainless/dp/B003FX6ED6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=stainless+toilet+flange+ring&qid=1595854362&sr=8-3 A third thought is that adding a stainless ring might be a pretty good preventive maintenance measure. I’m surprised (no, not really) that Oliver uses a plastic flange that’s all but destined to break in an RV environment. I think I might be inclined to add a few spots of marine adhesive to the bottom of the toilet when you put it back.

Probably pretty close. The difference with the Raptor at least is that is has the F250 frame and rear axle, so you can swap out springs for a higher payload.

Yeah you don't have the payload for that.

Yeah, the Truma diagram is a bit confusing. They draw the bypass in a different shade of grey to show that it doesn’t intersect the return; but printed or at a distance, it’s easy to assume that it does. Of course, logic tells you that it shouldn’t. The way it’s connected, the bypass creates a short circuit in the circulation line.