Overland

What year/model/hull number do you have? There should be a regular GFCI outlet at the front dinette seat - it would be unusual if you didn’t have one. Assuming since you’re at a Walmart that you aren’t plugged in, and that you’ve turned on your inverter and it’s operating, the usual cause for power loss is that the outlet has been tripped. If it isn’t that, check the electrical panel to make sure that no breakers have been tripped.

So I finally got around to ordering a new thermostat and replacing mine. This is a really nice upgrade - very easy to do and works as advertised. The only complaint I have is that (unless I'm missing something) the thermostat can only pair with one phone at a time. So to switch phones, you have to go through the pairing process each time. That's not a deal breaker, though. It will be nice to be able to switch the furnace on while I'm still snug in bed.

Otters!

Not a bad idea either. I think the Tesla truck is supposed to have a solar roof/bedcover option, too.

It does attenuate the signal appreciably it seems, at least sometimes. I don't know if it's the fiberglass itself or the foil backed insulation.

I just saw this today - https://www.goterravis.com Its an upcoming folding tonneau cover with up to 1,000 watts of solar. No price or release date yet, but it looks like something to keep an eye on.

Yeah, it hurts when two years later you see the shiny new thing that's both better and cheaper than what you've bought. You've just got to find an inner peace with that somehow, lol.

No. With our LFPs and extra solar we can get by without one. If I were buying today, I'd really consider the new F150 with the built in generator as an alternative. All the time, and to block both sun and rain. I'll always roll it out about a foot just to keep the mid day sun off the side of the trailer, and if we're someplace where we feel comfortable leaving the trailer with the windows open (most everywhere), then we can leave without worrying about an unexpected shower getting anything wet. Funny, we bought it because we had noticed in some campgrounds with pulloff sites, that people who got left hand sites couldn't use their awnings. That, or they set up camp right by the road. But we've yet to run into that situation ourselves. Still, glad to have gotten it. The one I have is the square platform, which was copied from the one that ScubaRx made for himself. I bought a rhino rack basket that fits on it about perfectly so it functions as extra storage. This is the only photo I can find that shows it, sort of...

Excluding stuff that isn't currently on the menu - Things I'm glad I got: Rear camera - I have a different brand but I'd have been fine with Oliver's Solar Composting toilet Second Awning Fiber granite Truma water heater Larger propane tanks Propane quick connects Basement access hatch Extra outlets Bike rack - not the current one, though Reading lights Things I'm ambivalent about: Dexter EZ Flex - will probably upgrade to something different Things I wish I didn't get: Zamp port - never used and super easy to install yourself if needed Mattress upgrade - we didn't get ours from Oliver, but we ended up with cushions so I wish we hadn't paid for them Things I'm glad I didn't get: Any entertainment, phone or internet gizmo - we did our own boosters and would use an iPad for entertainment if needed Front basket Extra shore power port Oliver's electronics (inverter, batteries, etc.) - installed my own and really happy with it Microwave - toaster oven is better for us Automatic sewer valves Looking at the current menu, here's the things I wouldn't care for: Lithium package - I'd do my own Inverter - same Extra shore power port Any antennas or boosters Microwave Condensation mat - imo, it's only needed with the latex mattress Mattress - I prefer cushions but I'd have better ones made than what Oliver provides Shower curtain - needed, imo, but I'd do my own like I have on mine Auto valves Andersen hitch - I'd pay for a ¾ ton truck before I'd buy their hitch Truma antifreeze - assuming it's cheaper just to buy it direct Electric door lock - would do it myself Front basket Rear receiver - would see if I could get the old platform style rack fabbed somewhere or make my own with 80/20 Power awning - I'd ask Oliver if they could attach the mounts for the street side awning, then buy a pair Carefree awnings like I have Easy start - needed, but I'd do it myself

That's a beautiful looking spot. On the other side of White Sands is Cloudcroft. There's a USFS campground there as well as dispersed camping throughout the forrest. I suspect the USFS campground will be closed that time of year though.

This is the most overlooked issue with sleeping in your vehicle. Sleeping in or on your vehicle is great for ‘true’ over landing, where you go from A to B to C each night. That’s ideal in Africa or Australia where there’s great distances between destinations. But the US is so dense with things to see and do that you tend to spend two to four nights at any one location, sometimes more, taking day trips from camp. We started off our search for a better way to camp thinking that a rooftop tent was the way to go. Then we camped at Bryce for three days and watched A poor couple across from us unpack and repack their campsite every day for three days. By the third day they looked miserable and that was when we decided that a trailer was the better way. But of course we still have great memories of car camping - packing up our Saab late on a Thursday night so that we could head out right after work on Friday to get to a campsite around 10pm. Then unrolling our sleeping bags in the back and trying not to either suffocate or let too many mosquitos in through the night. That was the best.

Generally, people are nice to a fault and the Ollie provides good insulation against the few who aren't. We'd have a much greater chance of encountering annoyances in a hotel than in our Ollie. But we only go where the mosquitos do not. Deserts and high altitude. No people, no towns, no bugs, and no pets unless you bring your own or adopt a ground squirrel. We still lock our doors - keeps alien abductions to a minimum.

It looks like the brand Oliver uses for their keyless lock is from a different company, but Global Link also makes a keyless lock. One of the features they tout is that their "deadlock" feature is more reliable and uses less battery power. It isn't a true, separate deadlock though - they just lock the latch in place. But from your experience, that may still be a more reliable choice. We have an electronic deadbolt on one door at home, and I can tell you that it eats batteries for breakfast.

FWIW, it feels pretty solid and I haven't heard anyone complain of one breaking. I'm sure it could be picked or forced open without much difficulty, though.

Yes, that's it. The same company also makes this alternative, which they call their "secure series". I can't tell if there's any difference except a different keyway and won't accept master keys.

Bumping these questions in case they were overlooked. BTW, I have Battleborn batteries now. If I had to replace them for whatever reason, or we’re starting from scratch, I’d probably be choosing between LifeBlue, Relion, Battleborn, or Victron; and these are the questions that I’d want to know before choosing.

If your business depends on connectivity, then I’d spend some time on rvmobileinternet.com learning what else is available. Chris and Cherie who run the site we’re once Oliver owners and they’ve made a business out of keeping people connected on the road. I think Oliver’s kit is fine for most, but there’s always better stuff out there, if you’re willing to spend the money and time. Personally, I’m not a big fan of Oliver’s new packages - are individual components still available, or are you forced to buy an electric door lock if all you want is a WiFi booster?

That's pretty lousy, but like you said, at least they gave you back your money. I think the tow charts for all the big three are confusing and yeah you've got to check every footnote, but even so, it doesn't look like Ford makes that limitation clear in their towing guide. Unless I'm missing something, it seems somewhat negligent on their part that you have to go through the manual to find it. Maybe it's listed somewhere obvious and I'm just not seeing it. I think I remember another owner having a similar problem with a dealer trying to push a truck without a tow package on someone.

As can fiberglass 😉

I'm sorry to hear about that. I've also had trouble finding Dometic parts, and their catalog of part numbers, particularly for their AC products, can get really confusing. When I wanted to replace my thermostat, Dometic told me that I needed a kit that included the control unit in the AC, and when I replied and told them that another owner bought just the thermostat, for a quarter the cost, they wrote back saying, 'yeah, you could do that, too.' So even they seem confused about their parts catalog - I suspect with all their products and variations, and different companies operating under one name, it may be just too vast for them to keep everything in supply. If I'm not mistaken, I think the AC is the only Dometic product that I have in my trailer, and I'll gladly swap that out if I find a better alternative.

I do have some specific questions about your batteries - 1. RE @NCeagle's concerns about prolonged charging at 100%, I know that Battleborn batteries have a higher capacity than labeled and that their BMS is supposed to keep their batteries within a range that will prolong their life. Do you use a similar tactic or should owners be cautious about charging your batteries to 100% or depleting them to 0? I did notice that you recommend that owners deplete their batteries to 50% if being stored for longer than 30 days, whereas Battleborn recommends charging them to 100% before disconnecting. 2. Is your BMS software upgradable via your app? Are there any user controllable parameters for your BMS? Does the software provide any insight into battery health, cell balance, etc., or does it just give info on state of charge? 3. For those of us with programmable chargers, what do you recommend for absorption and float voltages, charge current, absorption time, etc.? 4. I've read that Battleborn says that the main difference between their batteries and yours is that they use a cylindrical cell vs a prismatic one. I haven't a clue about the two, but Battleborn reportedly says that in their tests the cylindrical cells lasted longer and were easier to keep balanced. What is your response to that? 5. The simplicity of these types of batteries with a built in BMS is a sword with two edges; i.e., there's more to go wrong and if it does, then you've lost the whole battery. You guys have doubled down on that by including bluetooth and heating inside the box and I'm wondering are either of those, or your BMS repairable, or worth the trouble to get repaired even if it is?

Well I'm always willing to learn, and yes there's all kinds of misinformation on the internet. However, I don't think that companies like Victron are ones to spread it. If you can provide some links to better information I'd be thrilled to read it.

Obviously I can't speak to your experience, I can only repeat and give links to experts in the field. Could you tell us what business it is that has done these modifications? You mentioned you've been doing this for twenty years, but obviously not as LifeBlue.

What are the pros/cons of Oliver vs Airstream? (I know a broad subject.) Airstream advantages: Size - the extra foot in width and greater choices of lengths mean that the Airstreams can offer a bit more space and floor plan options. And there are larger Airstream models that work well for families, whereas the Olivers mainly appeal to couples or single owners. Finishes - I think that most Oliver owners would agree that the finishes in an Airstream are nicer and offer more choices whereas the Oliver interior is more utilitarian, though attractive. Prestige - Let's face it, Airstream is the classic to which all others are compared. Oliver advantages: Size - the narrower Olivers are easier to maneuver and can fit places an Airstream cannot - and you don't need towing mirrors with an Ollie. Ease of towing - I've never heard of anyone complain of sway or other instability with an Ollie, even when towing with less than ideal vehicles. Toughness - The fiberglass shell on an Ollie is heavy and durable. No popped rivets, no seams to seal, no fear of hail, and generally just more resilient. Since the interiors are moulded fiberglass as well, you can bounce an Oliver down a rough gravel road without worrying that your cabinetry will fall apart. Easily modifiable - you'd be surprised how readily some of us will pull out a saw. Super easy to maintain - the finishes inside can be quickly wiped down after a trip and the exterior is equally as easy to keep washed and waxed. Great service and an amazing family of owners - you'll see us question some Oliver decisions, designs, etc. from time to time, but one thing I think most everyone agrees on is that Oliver will stand behind their product and if things go wrong, they'll make it right. And if you ever need help with anything, there's always another owner willing to share their experience, offer solutions or advice, and even lend a helping hand. I was wondering about the durability of the shell and the ability to get the shell repaired? Also Major vs minor repairs to shell? Any marine fiberglass repair shop can repair damage to an Oliver shell, as can the factory. The shell itself is surprisingly tough - we've seen one Oliver in a major accident where the trailer slid in the snow, hit a bridge railing, and flipped, but the shell remained in tact and was repairable. I know of another owner who I think backed into a low tree branch and put a hole in the back corner on the curve and Oliver repaired it so that you couldn't tell it ever happened. Airstream has guards all around the front end to protect the alumiinim body and glass. Any problems with the Oliver in this aspect? Some, but there are a handful of solutions that people have come up with to deal with it. Since there's no window in front to worry about, I think the easiest and most durable solution is to coat the lower half of the front with a clear 3M film. That's something that can be done yourself or at most any detailing shop. What is the the longevity of Oliver? (20year old Airstream is still young) Who knows? We plan for ours to last at least that long. I've seen many of the earliest Olivers and they all look great. Just thinking about "restoring" a 50 year old Oliver - no wood to rot, all the components are standard and easily replaced, rust free frame, no cabinetry to rebuild, easily accessed plumbing and electrical, etc. Does the shell degrade with longterm exposure to the environment, ie weather, UV,...? Sure, if not taken care of. Oliver has a couple of the first Ollies that they've left sitting outside without much care and they're starting to look a bit dull. But I think a good polishing would freshen them up. All of the older Ollies I've seen apart from those still look shiny. Same as a fiberglass boat, I guess. We've also had owners paint or wrap the exterior, because they wanted a different color, so that's always an option down the road even if the finish on the shell were to deteriorate to the point that it couldn't just be polished. Does the shell have seems that need to be sealed, if so how often? No seams, but some penetrations like the plumbing vent and windows will need to be recaulked every three or four years. I just did mine for the first time (they didn't really need it) and it was an easy afternoon's job. One thing about the Ollie is that if there ever is a leak, it's easy to spot and there's very little damage that can be done. People put lift kits on the Airstreams because they sit soo low, Does Oliver need this or is a lift kit available? Olivers do sit noticeably higher. It isn't at all necessary, but of course some of us have looked into various methods to raise them even further. The older Elite 1's, and maybe even the current ones, had the axles mounted under the springs which gave them about 4" more clearance. I asked Oliver to do that to my E2, and it was just too high - looked silly and I was worried about stability. But because the suspension is built on a removable subframe, you could really take it off and do whatever you want. My own experience taking my E2 offroad is that the clearance is actually pretty good as it is. I've yet to drag the bumper or high center the tongue. I banged the steps on the pavement once, turning off of a paved road with a very low shoulder but the asphalt took the brunt of that encounter. The biggest issue is that just like the Airstream there's not a lot of suspension travel, and on the Ollie, that means that the axles can bang the steel subframe. That's never caused any damage, you can just tell looking a the subframe that it's been knocked a few times. I've looked into installing a Lippert Centerpoint airbag kit to mine, and I think it would work - that would give a couple extra inches of clearance and a softer ride on rough roads. The Airstream has steel frames that are prone to rust if care is not taken with them. I Oliver use aluminum which can corrode and can be prone to repetitive stress fractures. Are there any precautions/worries that you need to worry about with the frame of the Oliver? I have seen one Oliver frame failure from stress cracks, which Oliver replaced for free. That was one of the earliest E2's, which had a much lighter aluminum frame with a different design than the current one, and it also had many miles on it. The frame was reengineered at some point early on in production and the current one is much beefier - I haven't heard of any failures or stress cracks on one of those. I know this is a bunch of questions. Sorry. That what this forum is for. Welcome - please stick around and ask many more.

Thanks for putting that together. I'm sure it will be of help to a lot of people. I can give you mine, which is for the high output 3.5 ecoboost, which Ford is using in the Navigator and Limited F150 as well as the Raptor. I see 10 minimum and 13 max, typically 12-something, towing an LE2. The Raptor is the least aerodynamic of the F150's and has big all terrain tires that don't help either, so given that, I've been satisfied with the mileage I've seen. Just remember with your research that there are certain numbers that men always exaggerate, MPG being one of them. 😛