Overland

I’ve run across places with signs that say they won’t refill fiberglass tanks, so that may be something to consider. I looked at aluminum tanks when I was researching, but the weight savings wasn’t as much and didn’t seem worth the price. Can the fiberglass tanks use Oliver’s mounting hardware or do they require something different?

We will occasionally let the grey water drain if we’re in an area that allows that. We hook a long garden hose to an adapter on the drain to get the water away from the campsite. It doesn’t flow quickly, but it’s enough to keep up. We keep the trailer level and I open the valve just enough that I can close the basement door. I just bought an adapter that will allow us to connect our grey water hose to a sewer connection so that we can do the same at campsites. I believe that both the fresh and grey tanks are set on wedges that should allow the tanks to drain with the trailer level.

I haven’t experienced problems yet myself, but I’ve read that hard water can become an issue in RVs much more quickly than at home - and I’ve learned the hard way when using campground water to wipe the shower down after use and not let dishes air dry, or you’ll get really bad water spots. I suspect that the reason hard water is more of a problem in RVs is a combination of really hard campground water and intermittent use; i.e., letting water repeatedly evaporate out of the lines, leaving concentrated deposits in the low spots of the lines. Those deposits then vibrate loose when traveling and end up clogging the faucets. And I’m sure some of it also comes from the water heater - which is probably why Truma is so adamant about owners decalcifying regularly. Mike and Carol have added a water softener to their trailer and seem to have had good luck with it. And as suggested above, I’ve read recommendations for yearly vinegar treatments of the water lines, which I may start doing. It shouldn’t be hard - just run a hose from the pump to a gallon of vinegar, pump it through all of the lines, and let it sit overnight. That’s not to say that debris from construction hasn’t been an issue for some. I’ve pulled plenty out of the filter on my pump and clearly in Foy’s photos above there are plastic bits along with what looks like a good amount of mineral deposits. Probably some of that is inevitable when dealing with plastic pipe and fittings, and some owners will have none while a few will have enough to cause problems - though that’s probably not much consolation when you’re taking apart your faucets. Additionally I don’t think that the screens on the pump and city water inlet are perfect at keeping debris out of the lines. Anyway, I agree with Mike that it seems premature to bash Oliver when someone hasn’t even looked into the cause of their problem yet, though I can certainly understand the frustration.

I’ve noticed that on mine also. Obviously they come from the window manufacturer like that, but why, I’ve no idea. Perhaps the gaps act as a secondary drain in case water gets through the seal, or perhaps it’s somehow related to the egress function (maybe it makes it easier to open if the seals are old and gunked up? Dunno).

Many people use the basket for a generator, so it may be the size or weight of that particular one that worries Oliver. Don’t know.

I guess you're referring to this? Did you get everything working again? Was debris the problem?

All Victron & Blue Sea would be ideal, but Oliver wants a dead simple package that owners can't screw up, and Victron gear is way too configurable for that. But I get their reasoning.

There are marine supply places that will do custom plates, or maybe a local sign shop could match what's already in the trailer. I can't remember if my display came with a plate for a larger opening - it may have. I think it was ScubaRX who made some custom switch plates for his trailer - I know someone did.

Congratulations - it's a shame that Oliver doesn't customize anymore, but you'll have fun doing it yourself and you'll be able to control more. I'm curious why you chose the standard toilet if you're going to be boon docking a lot. A couple of comments - You might look at a Cradlepoint router rather than the weboost and wifi ranger. It's basically the same thing combined into one unit, but highly configurable and easy to do your own antennas, etc. I saw the new awnings at the rally. They seem sturdy and well made. If you're at all handy, I'd think about doing your own shower rod rather than the track. You can do a nice stainless rod across the toilet that functions much better. Some people with the auto drain complain about the control panel lights at night, so something to think about. It's something you can always add later and then determine for yourself where to put the panel. I'm surprised that Oliver isn't doing the mirrored doors anymore. I thought that was a popular choice.

Isn’t that something that Apple is supposed to fix in the next version? Thought I remembered that being mentioned. I agree that it should always be an option regardless what the app does.

Lol, once you start adding Victron kit it’s impossible to stop. Start saving for the MultiPlus. I probably would have left it in the hull but your install looks nice. Are you going to put the display where the Zamp controller is? I guess you’re going to need a cover plate of some sort - any ideas what you’re going to use?

Agreed - there’s nothing on the display that isn’t easier to access and read on the app. Same for the settings. There are a few oddball things that you need access to the controls for, like if you ever replace your batteries and want to reset everything, but otherwise there’s no need to run the wires and cut another hole in your interior. Their color control is a different story, since it displays so much info at a glance, but I wouldn’t think that’s something you’d install unless you at least added a Victron solar charge controller.

I know of one Oliver that has experienced stress cracks on the frame. It's one of the earliest LE2s owned by a full timer. Whether that's the only one or not, I don't know, but its the only one that's ever been reported here so I assume that it is. I saw it when it was in service, and I think that it probably could have been repaired with aluminum plates and huck bolts (which is how some manufacturers make their frames), though Oliver elected to replace the frame. It's anyone's guess as to the cause of those cracks - bad welds, accident, too much weight on the tongue, etc. - but regardless the cause, I wouldn't let a single failure determine whether or not you buy used. If it does worry you, Oliver made a change to the front of the frame I think in the early 100 hull numbers (eliminated the extendable tongue) and the newer design appears to be stronger, but I have no idea if that was the purpose of the change.

I vote for this as the official Oliver greeting.

Looks like Ford is moving the Raptor's transfer case, front diff and drive modes to the Super Duty for their new Power Wagon competitor. And it tows!!! https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/2020-ford-f-250-and-350-tremor-trucks-boast-lift-kit-rock-crawl-mode/ar-AADvk22

A couple of people have run into a similar problem - I'd check out this thread and also this one to see if any of the advice offered there will help. Good luck!

Fantastic. I like that they sit about even with the awning. Now you just need to install two more forward of those. Did you upgrade the charge controller, or install a separate one for the two new panels?

You can definitely get 3 12 x 18 crates in there, with about 12" to spare in the very back.

Yes, I have three in there. One slid to the curbside and two in front. I highly recommend this brand. They're more expensive but they're far better made than the other stuff on amazon.

Yep. plywood. I'm also trying to figure out a position to mount it so that I have room to store our vortex heater in there as well. I've been doing that already, but it's a tight fit and I want the inverter to have proper room to breathe.

I’m doing a number of things. I wanted to mount my inverter more solidly, and since it’s in the front dinette seat I figured it was now or never if I wanted to get rid of the black tank. Then as part of redoing the inverter I wanted to reroute the heavy cables back to the battery, since they were all run through some tight spots with no extra space for protective looms. They’re heavy welding cables but I still will feel better if they’re run through a loom and not wedged tight between the fiberglass. Taking out the sewer line gave me much more room for both those and the existing Oliver wiring. It also preps for if I ever decide to place some batteries in the space below the pantry, which is something in the back of my mind. And while I’m in there I’m cleaning, zip tieing, etc. I also widened the hole under the toilet for better access to the wiring and plumbing under it and I think that’s where I’ll smuggle drugs store extra peat for the toilet. Just need to figure out a basket or something to keep the bags from getting lost in the hull. And yes, then comes the sink & faucet mod which I’m still researching (and waiting for Oliver to get back on selling me a new countertop without holes cut in it).

I just checked my vent since mine is all still apart. The vent pipe is 1.5" ABS, so you'll need a 1.5" ABS tee, a 1.5" to 1.25" ABS adapter, and then a short piece of 1.25" PVC pipe, maybe 3" or 4". The Nature's Head hose will fit over the 1.25" PVC. Oliver puts some sealant on the hose to hold it in place but I'm thinking a hose clamp would do a better job.

A photo would help us see how steep you’re talking about, but we’ve had our tongue digging into the dirt before. If you can, keep the breakaway cables attached to the truck. Use the legos under the jacks so that you can chock the tires better.

I did and it did not. I think that the correct way must be to remove the floor in the bath. I used an oscillating cutter and cut the tank in two (i.e., hacked it into several pieces) to get it out through the dinette. I removed the sewer line in a similarly elegant manner.

Good catch. I’ve been doing some doctoring in that area and ran across a loose crimp that surely would have failed. I’ve also found some wires under tension with no strain relief that were time bombs as well. And some sharp screw ends with wiring looms up against them. *sigh* I really hope that Oliver is doing a better job with their wiring these days.