John Dorrer

UPDATE: Jason followed up and asked if the trailer was still plugged into the 7-pin. Yep. Only here for 2 nights so we kept connected There is a safety thing that results in the awning automatically retracting so you don't drive off with it out The "Fire Drill is over"🙃

Arrived at campsite, no measurable wind, light breeze. Tucked along a tree line. Deployed the Girard and 2 minutes later it retracted. The remote stop button wouldn't stop the awning from retracting. Waited a bit to let the motor cool down. Deployed it a second time and after a couple minutes it retracted again. Can the awning sense low battery in the remote, or will the remote do this if the battery is low in the remote? I have not changed the remote battery since our 3/10/22 pickup, nor have I changed the wind sensor batteries. What size button battery? Any suggestions would be appreciated. TIA

UPDATE: 5/30/24 I received the Gorilla Epoxy Ultimate recommended by Jason. Prior to fixing, I wiped the back of the inverter mounting board and the fiberglass wall with alcohol, removing construction dust. I mixed the 2-part and applied large dabs of epoxy to the back of the mounting board, and immediately pressed the board to the fiberglass wall. I wedged my MacGyver fix to keep the inverter tight to the fiberglass wall. I will keep the wedge in place until we get back from a short trip.

Welcome from Hull# 1045, Jolli Olli

Noticed in the pictures most of the adhesive beads were still intact, with only a few places where a small amount was on the fiberglass wall. It appears the mounting board was never pressed into the adhesive beads.

While conducting a pre-trip inspection, I discovered the mounting board for the inverter had broken loose from the the adhesive bond to the wall The inverter was laying against the wheel well. All wiring appears to be fine. Ticket submitted to Oliver. Looks like and easy fix. Asked Oliver adhesive they used. My MacGyver fix was two 1-gallon tea bottles with a 2x4 to wedge it tight to the wall. Pictures attached. Any thoughts. Things happen🙃

First, my impression after reading your earlier comment was you intended on completely removing all sealant inside and outside. I read your comment twice and came to the same conclusion. Sealant provides a watertight seal to all joints and an estetically pleasing finish. Sealant at the windows is weatherproofing. Without sealing the windows you will have leaks everywhere. You asked why there was so much sealant in the bathroom. Our 2022 has a special plastic wall at the bathroom and closet. All panel joints are caulked to keep water in the bathroom and from leaking into the trailer. You asked why the wheel fenders are caulked. I actually don't understand your thoughts process. The sealant at the fenders is for aestetic purposes, and to keep spray confined. Sealant is a necessary component to every building, boat, trailer. As I have mentioned, my preferred sealant is polyurethane. Oliver doesn't do custom work. I get what they used, not what I want. It is what it is. For me a soft bristle tooth brush and soap cleans my sealant joints. I can promise you this, if you removed all the sealant and put your trailer up for sale, any smart person will walk so fast, and your chances of selling very remote. I would be worried about mold, because it will happen. I would worry about electronic components. Oliver would never sell or sign off on unfinished trailer. Never, ever would happen. This is my position on your posts.

I spent 40 years in the Building Envelope business, designing, large exterior sealant jobs along with the design of large commercial roofing projects. We also did forensic investigations. My sealant of choice was high performance Polyurethane Sealants, single and and multiple component. Silicone was used for glazing by other trades. The silicone used by Oliver is, I believe, marine grade for use on fiberglass. I have seen zero issues on the sealant work on Oliver's. What I see is a lack of maintenance to re-caulk every 4-5 years, based on how the Oliver is stored and exposed to UV. . Silicone leaves a residue that can't be removed, especially on masonry surfaces. It will be very hard to remove all sealant from the Oliver, without leaving caulk and residue. Once caulked with silicone, you will need to re-caulk with silicone. If you switch to Polyurethane, there will be adhesion failure. There are several comments you made that are not accurate.

First, I would start with Oliver and find out what they used. You don't want to have a comparability issue. Switching from silicone to say a Polyurethane will result in adhesion problems. Silicone sealants will leave a residue that you really can't remove.

Congrats

Great report. Thank You👍👍

If the cracks are bad, you could take to marine place and have them repair the fiberglass. Just an idea.

Tape the surface to be cut or drilled

Thanks to the Forum elite (at the Rally) for trying to figure out why the fan didn't work. It will be going into Ford when we get home.

New, hit a big bump and the stereo wire came loose. All is good.

Mossey, yep, Mile Sharp confirmed it is capped and not live. Sorry we didn't get to visit at the Rally. How is the Proven Industries puck lock working?

Per my original comment, the bushings were between the cab and frame, and bed and frame. Nothing to do with shocks. Replaced shocks due miles and bumpy ride.

UPDATE: Turns out there were 2 loose wires dangling under the dinette at the fuse box. I connected the pink wire and the Furrion Stereo came on. However there is a dangling sky blue wire. Front of fuse panel has 1st eleven slots filled with fuses #12 was empty, and #13 had a #5 brown fuse. On the backside of the panel, the 1st 13 places had connected wires. Then there is a dangling sky blue wire. Anyone with a 2022 E2 could someone check their fuse box front and rear and see where the sky blue wire would be connected. It would have to be slot #14, #15, etc. Thanks, John

I submitted a ticket to Oliver and Mike Sharp replied back that the only fuse is the #10 in the fuse box, no inline fuse. I'm going to talk to Steve Landrum, he has smaller prongs, so we will check. I will look at the backside to look for another fuse.

120v. Steve has the small tips, and he said he would come down to my site. I did file a ticket and I believe Mile Sharp said there was no inline fuse.

After 160,000 miles on our original shocks (2013 F250), it was overdue for new ones. While inspecting the underside of the truck the Ford service guy found the rubber bushings between the frame and cab, and frame and bed, were either gone or rotted, allowing steel on steel. The truck rides so much better. Next time I won't wait so long.

My wife said that when I cut power at the post, the TV went off but the stereo stayed on. Since the stereo operates off 12 volt that makes sense. She turned it off and we left. At the rally it wouldn't turn on. I will look for paper clips

👍

Today at a campground, I turned off the 30amp at the power pole, and forgot the stereo and TV were still on. Got to the Rally and my wife tried to turn on the stereo and TV. The stereo is black, on/off button is still in. Checked the fuse and it looked good. Tried the reset and nothing. Spoke to Furrion Technical Support. Pulled the wiring harness and tried the multimeter and prongs were to big to make contact. 12 volt outlets work so I'm getting 12 volt. Any ideas?

Appears 2 have replaced with the FreshJet, but they did things differently. As noted in another comment, one didn't reuse the condensate lines and the one chose to reuse the inside part while the other replaced the entire unit on the roof and inside