John Dorrer

You need to purchase Valve Lubricant from Thetford. After emptying your tanks and before travel pour some in the toilet, kitchen sink, and shower drain. The sink and toilet will drain to the gray and black tanks and lubricated the valves which are at back end of the tanks. The shower drain will drain to the back flush blade valve, but make sure the handle in the bathroom is pushed on.

Confirmed by Oliver, the Girard Awning wind sensor is hard wired, so at least from 2022 to present. Not sure when Oliver switched to Girard.

The newer models are hard wired. I believe our 2022 Girard sensor is hardwired as wires go from the sensor to the Oliver. There are no screws or battery compartment.

If I ever decided to remove it, I would consider installing the 1/2" rain gutter the entire length and as close to the awning so it didn't stick out and look unsightly. That way the area would be open and easy to clean, and keep most of the rain out.

Yep. I get home and spray all along there. Then follow up with mop and soap. I would never consider removing it. To each his own🙃

Use a plastic razorblade in conjunction with a safe solvent. There have been several who have removed that gasket. Hopefully they will chime in.

We had ours done at the Rally. No more smell from the gray tank😊

It was such a beautiful drive last October. After spending 6 nights in SMNP we headed up the BRP. We opted for hook-ups, Asheville East KOA, Lineville Falls RV Park, and Boone KOA before breaking off for New River Gorge NP. We drove the North part from Shenandoah NP to Richmond, VA in 2016. We need to connect Boone, NC and Richmond, VA next trip.

$52 was for greasing zerks. As far as costs for installing Alcan Springs and shocks, I don't know those costs until I talk to the service guy that would be doing the work. Several Owners have installed Bulldog shocks, but there seems to a report supply issue. I'm watching carefully. Keep everyone posted on the install and what you were doing for the 50, 50, 500 mile torquing of the new bolts. Find out what you can on those shocks. I may also consider having Alcan do the work also.

The Hughes Watchdog EMS/EPO will shut down with low or high, so according Mike Sokol nothing should get past the wired EMS to the appliances to cause damage. Most of this stuff is way above my knowledge base.

I will be picking the trailer up on 9/17 and plan on asking them about replacing the springs with Alcan's. Also, plan on having new shocks installed at the same time. I pay around $52 for the zerks. I don't want to mess with it.

Look for a truck service place. We have one 5 minutes away They grease our zerks, inspect the suspension, etc. I will have a discussion about switching out the springs, when we pick up the trailer and stop to get the zerks greased for our trip. I pay $52 for greasing the zerks.

Here is another article on surge protectors from Mike Sokol. He stated using a cheaper surge protector at the post as a sacrificial lamb to protect the wire EMS is OK. In a previous article he recommended using another EMS like the Hughes Watchdog 30amp with EPO that will shut power down at the post. Each owner decides, no post surge protector, a cheap surge protector at the post, or another EMS top of the line surge protector with EPO. https://open.substack.com/pub/rvelectricity/p/are-double-surge-protectors-a-good?r=nq2l8&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=email

Congrats from Hull # 1045

My suggestion is to carry your keys. We do, and you will be glad in the future. If your batteries run too low you will need the key. We have to replace the batteries 1-2 times a year. I just replaced the remote battery. You should have received 2 keys and a remote.

10 years ago we had a Revelco theft system installed in our F250. Back then it was $400. To date there hasn't been a reported theft. Remove the Faub and the truck is safe.

Jumping from a pop-up truck camper to the Oliver was one of the best decisions we have made. A bad inverter breaker right after pick-up and the AC heating element on the Norcold fridge are the 2 things we dealt with. Oliver sent a replacement breaker, and the fridge heating element was covered by Norcold and replaced by a local RV place. The build quality is second to none.

NO. I wrap them around the tongue and use a heavy duty lock.

We and many Oliver Owners use the Proven Industries Puck Lock for the 2" Bulldog Hitch, 2178B. The other items mention are all deterrents. If someone wants something bad enough they will get it. We just want to make it hard or direct them to move on to another target.

According to what I believe Mike Sokol stated in a couple of his articles, the answer would be yes.

Yep

I was reading his Autoformer articles also.

I wouldn't do that on the valve set screws. They require adjustments, if Oliver is doing service, that would be very hard to break the bond. Anything that requires adjustment should not be using locktite red for sure, and probably not at all. Things like the attic storage hinge screws for sure.

That's over my head. If you are on Facebook, join Mike Sokol's Facebook, where you can get good answers to any questions or concerns. RVelectricity by Mike Sokol Based on his posts and articles he highly recommends the EMS portable surge protector in conjunction with the wired EMS in the Oliver. The EMS is also supposed to protect against lightening strikes. He would be the one to say your concerns are unwarranted, but that is for him to say.

My recommendation would be an portable EMS like the Hughes Watchdog 30amp with EPO (used by many Oliver owners, or the South Wire Surge Guard. If surges by lightening, or high low you want an EMS that will shut down at the post before the damage reaches the hard wired EMS in the trailer. Cheaper to replace the post surge protector If the EMS shuts down it should have zero effect on any electronics in the trailer. If you haven't read the Mike Sokol post, see my link in an earlier comment. Stay away from the cheap ones. They won't do the job.