topgun2

These were made from some scrap 6×6. Cut the length at approximately 11 inches – enough to clear the onboard jacks on level ground – and sand lightly. Take a piece of scrap rope (I used plastic/nylon rope because it does not absorb water) at about 9 inches, heated the ends to stop fraying and added a bit or heat shrink tape for good measure. Then using an electric wire staple attach it to one side, bunch it up a little so that you have enough room to side your hand under it and then attach the other side. Finally, give it a couple of coats of exterior polyurethane and you are the pride of the neighborhood. Certainly a good, simple winter project. Bill

Buzzy, Anything that I can do to help the Master! These were made from some scrap 6x6. Cut the length at approximately 11 inches - enough to clear the onboard jacks on level ground - and sand lightly. Take a piece of scrap rope (I used plastic/nylon rope because it does not absorb water) at about 9 inches, heated the ends to stop fraying and added a bit or heat shrink tape for good measure. Then using an electric wire staple attach it to one side, bunch it up a little so that you have enough room to side your hand under it and then attach the other side. Finally, give it a couple of coats of exterior polyurethane and you are the pride of the neighborhood. Certainly a good, simple winter project. (I also posted this over under Mods to make it easier to find in the future) Bill

Joe, As has been said before on this Forum, a call to the sales office at Oliver might help you now or in the future. Many times they will know of an Oliver that is either on the market of about to be on the market before it becomes public knowledge. Bill

Mike, I hate saying this at a time like this and I don't mean to scare you, but, whenever a breaker is tripped or a fuse is blown there are two things that you should do. One - try to figure out why it tripped or blew so that it will not happen again (i.e. repair what caused the problem or try to not overload that circuit again in the future). Two - if it was a fuse that blew then you should not only replace it but you should carry at least one spare of each fuse type you have for those "emergencies" on the road. Have a safe and fun trip! Bill

P.S. I purchased mine from Redneck Trailer Supplies (877) 973-3632. These are the same folks that Oliver uses. Bill

Grayson, Try "BK2-100" bearing kit from "Trailer Parts Pro" by "Redline". Kit consists of - 1.719" seal I.D. Bearings: L44649 and L68149 and seal 10-19. I have a 2016 Oliver Elite II. I bought two sets of these when I purchased my Oliver in the event I had a breakdown on the road in the middle of nowhere. I figured that it would be easier to find someone to replace the bearings than to find BOTH the bearings and someone to replace them. Or, I could do most of it myself on the side of the road if absolutely necessary. Hope this helps! Bill

On to New Orleans (part deux): After a nice evening at Natchez State Park we were up fairly early and on the road for the drive (about 6 hours) down to New Orleans. With the exception of the last 15 miles or so while driving within the New Orleans city limits, the drive was reasonably pleasant. Given that it is just about the closest campground to the French Quarter we had made reservations at the Jude Travel Park (7400 Chef Menteur Hwy) with a Good Sam rate of $30 per night. The neighborhood is not the best and when I drove up to the gate I was thinking that this just might not be such a good idea. However, there was a hot tub, a pool and the showers were clean and best of all Marla (the owner) was extremely nice and just full of knowledge about the town, places to eat, things to see and do, etc. The campground even offers a private shuttle service (for $5 per person one way) to the French Quarter and back. This is about half the price of a taxi and a few dollars less than parking. Site number 28 is just about the best in that there are trees for shade. After setting up camp we decided to try out Marla's shuttle service to the French Quarter. Not much has changed in the 30 years since we were last here. Still crowded with the same "interesting" aromas - definitely a party place. But the architecture is still interesting as is the history and food and drink. The next morning we drove over to the City Park where we found "The Morning Coffee Stand" near the Art Museum (be sure to ask for directions before you go or set your GPS for N29degrees 59minutes07.5 by W 090degrees05minutes41.6) and had our fill of beignets. Without the tourists and noise of Café du Monde in the French Quarter we enjoyed our coffee and obligatory beignets in a much nicer and more peaceful setting. We then headed to the National World War II museum(at 945 Magazine Street). Parking here in the blocks surrounding the Museum is designated as "premium", but, if you park a block and a half away the price is somewhat cheaper. We were told that the museum could take anywhere from 1/2 day to two days to see, so, even though we had stopped for coffee we were still there early. This is also a good idea to avoid some of the crowds that seem to gather from about 10am on. The admission price of $17 (senior and veteran price) seemed a bit high, but, was well worth it. After getting our tickets and having a short wait for our "train" was had the treat of seeing a Medal of Honor winner! This is one heck of a museum! Certainly it could take all of two days to see, read, hear and look at all of the things on display. However, knowing that we were on a bit of a schedule, we left the museum at around 3pm, headed over to the St. Charles Street Car line and headed to the Garden District. The one way fare is $.40 (senior rate) and exact change is required or you can purchase a pass for $3.00 and ride public transportation for the entire day. Once down in the Garden District we took out the self guided walking tout that Marla had given us and started walking. Anne Rice's house, Payton Manning's place, Nicholas Cage, the lead singer for Nine Inch Nails (everyone knows him don't they?) and the place where Jefferson Davis died plus a bunch more are all there. Back on the streetcar to the museum, a bite to eat, get the truck and head back to Jude Travel Park for the night. On our final day we once again headed to the French Quarter and drove to a parking lot just outside the Quarter that Marla recommended. No problems getting there or parking - (they accept credit cards via a machine) - a walk on the Moon walk and Riverside walk and then from one end of the Quarter to the other. A late lunch at the Napoleon House ( reasonable menu at reasonable prices) and then back to walking. Once we were "dog tired" we headed back to camp. The next morning we took our time packing up for the trip home. Being either a hard one day (12 hours) or an easy two days, we decided to take the two days of mostly Interstate driving to get to Western North Carolina. Unfortunately, at about the half way point of the drive we picked a campground at random called "Lakeside RV Park" in Opelika, Alabama. This was perhaps the worse RV park I've ever stay at. Certainly should have looked around a bit more before handing over my $40! Do not even think about using the shower house or restrooms! Good weather, great food and drink, history, architecture, a great Oliver, what more could one want for a final trip of the season? Bill

Steve, My apologies - I originally read your post as wanting information on tire covers - duh! In talking with ScottyGS prior to ordering my calmark cover I decided to slightly alter his measurements so that there might be a bit more coverage on the sides and rear and a bit less at the front (see attached). I have not received my cover yet, so, I can not tell you how these adjustments worked. I had an ADCO cover on a previous camper and I believe that the CalMark is a better cover with both priced about the same. Bill

Dennis, I've seen the inside of Steve and Tali's rig and can tell you that they are wired for everything one can imagine. If you ever have the chance - don't miss it! What Steve describes above only scratches the surface. Bill

OK, The fresh water tank drain is a small valve located under the curbside access panel in the rear of the camper. There is a "porthole" cover near the cold air return vent that you can use to get to it, but, if this is your first time I suggest getting to it via that access panel. Usually it is hidden under the duct work but it will be there. Once you find it and turn the knob on the valve to be inline with the blue pipe that it attached to, you should see water drain out of a small tube under the camper. Once it has finished draining don't forget to move that valve knob back to its original position that is cross-wise of the blue pipe. Bill

Mike, I'm not the expert in this area, but, hope that some of this might help. Yes, you can charge your batteries as a group - your onboard charger does this all the time by either charging while you are plugged into shore power (110 voltage line from your house or campsite power pole) or while you drive down the road plugged into your tow vehicle. Obviously, the simplest way to charge is to run an extension cord from your house to the shore line input on the street side of the camper, plug it in and let the batteries charge. You might want to check the water level in the batteries prior to doing this just to make sure that they are topped up. It does take a little bit of time for a charge to show up but overnight should just about do it unless there are other issues going on (such as low fluid level in the batteries). With regards to battery switches - the first thing that I would check is the breaker panel located under the dinette. Make sure all those breakers are in the "on" position. Then ,if you have the solar option, under the access panel on the street side rear of the camper is a large red "dial" switch that should be in the "on" position and near it are two reasonability strange looking "breakers" that are black. If either of these two breakers have "tripped" you should see a little "yellow" flag sticking out to the side. Simply push this yellow "flag" back into the black thing - don't worry you will not get shocked as long as that is the only thing you touch. Finally, unless your batteries are dead (which I doubt) and you have solar, I'd hook-up and leave and let the sun and your tow vehicle take care of the batteries (assuming of course that the fluid level in the batteries is good). Have a safe trip! Bill

Matt - I've got "issues", but, not with you. Thanks for staying on top of this thing. Bill

Steve, Welcome, congrates on the new Oliver and try looking at ScottyGS's post below re winterizing. He posted the following link for tire cover at Camping World. Hope this helps! Bill

David and Susan, And now - let the real fun begin! Between making it your own, the where did I store that thing and the joy of getting friendly with your new "baby", this is a really enjoyable time. Whole worlds that one never knew existed open up. Have fun and be safe out there. Bill

Mine built January 2016 doesn't have four screws that I can see. Bill

Dang! A loss and a scare! Thanks all around - to Tommy for all that he has done for me personally. Certainly I wish Tommy and his family well. to medical staff and/or those above for Phil's recovery. That smile in the picture is how I remember Phil from my delivery day. to Steve for letting us all know - perhaps Steve can apply for Tommy's job? Bill

Mike, "I will get out there tomorrow and find that hot water bypass. My understanding is that it is a valve of some sort under the water heater which is under my bed next to the furnace." If you can't find a picture of the winterization valves in question, you might want to take a look at Buzzy's article - EZ Winterizing System written July 17, 2016. This article has a picture of the valves in question AND shows the direction the valves should be placed in to by-pass the water heater. Obviously, once you have drained the heater, make sure that you put the valves back into the "standard" position so that the water heater may once again be filled BEFORE you try to heat water. Bill

Coy, As of 5:39pm (CDT I have no PM from you. Bill

Mike, With regards to Buzzy's water heater issue I would think that it would be fairly simple for short term "winterization" to simply use the by-pass (winterization) valves to by-pass the water heater, pull the anode rod/drain plug to empty the water heater and then, as you suggest, simply heat the rest of the camper. Certainly this would be fairly easy assuming that you store your Oliver at home or at a place that has electric. With regards to the outside shower - it is already inside two doors, but I would still pack that area from the outside with a little bit of insulation. Just to be on the really safe side you might also want to leave open the dinette "hatch" and the curbside rear "hatch". Bill

Coy, I've tried to PM you but that function is not currently working for me. If its working for you can you PM me your email? Bill

Randy, Indirect via (as you mention) the cold air return and the heat that radiates from the exterior of the supply ducts plus that of the heater itself. I'm guessing that the difference in temps you noted is due to the air being "hotter" the closer that you get to the heater and less due to the function of the cold air return. I'm no HVAC guy, but, given the above I somehow doubt that moving the cold air return will have that much effect on your temp differential. Perhaps a better spot for the cold air return would be nearer to the thermostat (or move the thermostat) so that it "senses the "cold air and pumps out more heat. Seriously, I'd guess that the majority of the problem has to do with heat loss from the duct work on the run towards the bath plus the lack of hot air volume getting to the bath. But, I repeat, I'm not a HVAC guy. Bill

Coy - Good idea on the new thread - thanks AND you've got some good ideas here. I think that I've heard a nomination from the floor for Hardrock to spearhead this this! Bill p.s. I'll get back to the Forum as soon as either Tommy or Anita get back to me regarding corporate interest and possible dates.

Scotty, For what its worth - I really don't think that you have much to worry about with a temp of 28 degrees even for several hours. I assume that you have left the outside shower faucets in an open position. These are the most exposed to the outside and water in the valve might freeze at that temperature (although I still doubt it would be enough to cause damage). Other than that I think you are good given what you have already done given the "protected" other parts that could freeze (protected from the wind and they have insulation). Bill

Just can't resist - I get false readings all the time - at least according to my wife! Bill

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