topgun2

Fisher2 - I simply thought that the instant hot water heater was too expensive for what it did. Certainly I can remember to turn the standard water heater on ten minutes prior to when I will need hot water and if I don't remember then I remind myself that I'm camping and relaxing so I certainly can wait another 10 minutes. There is enough hot water with the six gallons for at least two people. First, one does not use all hot water when showering - unless they have different skin than I do - and the water continues to heat as you use it. We have never run out of hot water and my wife does have long hair. Yes, maintenance is different on the standard as compared to the instant on but I do not see it as that much different. Yes, one does continually haul around 50 more pounds that you simply can not easily get rid of with the standard heater but I wasn't too worried about that when I compared it to all the other "junk" I usually take camping and when compared to the 5,000 pounds I'm towing anyway it really doesn't make that much difference. Bottom line - I agree with Sherry - take a hard look at how you normally camp, how impatient you are, and how much money you have. Bill

Raspy - I towed for years with an Equalizer. It does have anti-sway. Basically I liked it. Yes, there are times when getting the bars into the frame brackets is a problem and I even had times when the bars actually popped out of the brackets. It can be noisy with the steel bars grating against the brackets and you better wear gloves because it can be dirty. The bars are heavy and the hitch does nothing to reduce "bounce" and, in fact, may actually contribute to it. The frame brackets can "creep" unless you bolt them through the frame or weld them to the frame. But, I repeat, I did like it. Bill p.s. I think that rideandfly's experience above should be a lesson for all of us.

If you don't get any help here you might want to try the folks over on FGRV (Fiberglass RV) forum. Since their campers can be somewhat older than ours, they have had a bunch of experience with door windows. Bill

Bill - good catch, analysis and solution to the problem. Was the replacement done under any kind of warranty? Bill

Jeff - My only point in asking the question was to allow people to think about and/or know what the capacities/capabilities of their particular tow vehicle are as recommended by the manufacturer. With my F-150 I can tow a bit over 12,000 pounds and have a hitch weight of up to 500 pounds without the use of a weight distribution hitch. Many of our Olivers are under (well under in the case of the total weight) both these numbers, but, they are close to that hitch weight. I do not think that any of the trucks (non HD) currently on the market are really all that different as far as these numbers are concerned. In my case, even though I am under the limits imposed by the manufacturer, I chose to not press those limits (that are already probably very conservative) and believe that I receive the benefits I have listed earlier. Virtually anything that I can do to make towing a bit safer for me, my family, and for others on the road is worth strong consideration in my book. Bill

Spike - What does your owner's manual have to say about towing with the Tundra (i.e. at what point is a weight distribution hitch required)? Bill

I was told that the purpose of the new design was to get rid of the noise. I'm not sure just how the taper of the housing does this but I'm guessing that it might have to do with the angle of the cone in the housing while it is under the pressure of redistributing weight. And with the whale-tail being able to pivot, the direction of the force on that cone will tend to stay a bit more stable. With regards to a lube job - I've been told that Andersen already uses lube (light weight) when they insert the cone into the housing prior to inserting the hitch ball shaft. Bill

John - there are no inserts on the whale-tail. The whole whale-tail is powder coated steel. I too feel that this new design will be easier to attach/detach as compared to the old design in that one will not have to "fit" the entire "collar" around the base of the hitch. Also, this design should make it easier to disconnect because you will not have to raise both the Oliver AND the tow vehicle in order to get slack in the chains since the whale-tail pivots. What other "details" are you seeking? The "new" more tapered hitch ball and housing basically looks exactly the same as the old one except that the base of the hitch ball shaft is smaller due to the higher degree of taper inside the housing. I did find it interesting that the come material is red on the new one. This was the color used on my first one 17 months ago before Andersen changed to white which was on the last two that I tried. Does this help you? Bill

In previous discussions regarding weight distribution/anti-sway hitches we have beaten the issue to death. I believe that most agree that the Oliver does NOT sway during normal and possibly even some emergency situations. I also think that most of us agree that for vehicles that do not REQUIRE weight distribution, these types of hitches are simply NOT necessary. However, many vehicles (like the Ford F-150) DO require the use of a weight distribution hitch. I have used several different brands of these types of hitches - all have had good and bad points and all have had times where the process of connecting/dis-connecting has been a "problem". I have found that the Andersen is certainly no worse than any of the others in this regard and it is, perhaps, even easier. My argument regarding these hitches is not only regarding the FACT that they are required for some (actually read that most since I believe that most of us do not tow with vehicles rated in the "HD" range), but, I believe that they add a measure of additional safety. This safety is obtained in at least two ways. First, with the weight of the combined unit (tow vehicle and Oliver) more evenly spread over the axles and therefore the things that actually touch the road, one has better use of the suspension and brakes thus making the ride and performance of the tow vehicle more stable, reliable, consistent and safe in virtually all situations. Secondly, in the event of a situation where the combined unit (this includes the tow vehicle, Oliver and driver) was placed anywhere near its maximum the fact that there is additional connection between the tow vehicle and the Oliver should help. Certainly I hope to never be in this situation. But, I also hope to never need my house insurance (nor my life insurance). The decision to buy "insurance" (or not) is a personal one (even though I hate it when some people whine about not having insurance after the fact). I too have had some "problems" with the Andersen making noise while turning. Beginning today Andersen is shipping a new design which (hopefully) will get rid of this noise once and for all. They have increased the taper of the ball shaft inside the housing and changed the "whale-tail" where it attaches to the bottom of the ball shaft. This change now allows the whale-tail to "float" or pivot up and down on the end of the ball shaft see (picture below - note that the old design had a complete circular "collar" where the two "tabs" are now located for attachment to the ball shaft ). I've been told that for any current owner of the "old style" unit, Andersen will do an exchange of the tail and ball/housing unit for $100. Finally, I can say nothing but good things about the way Andersen conducts its business. Certainly they are in the class of Oliver in this regard. They have bent over backwards to try making sure that I am a happy customer and have done all that I've asked for and more in this regard. Bill

Obviously most of the owners of these wonderful campers have written that check - all for a reason. AND, now you too know the reason(s). Lob away with those questions - there are some very good minds here that just love the excitement of helping a (prospective) new owner get into our world. Bill

Dean - its great to have you back and I certainly look forward to meeting you and Laura. Bill

Basically it is because of the way the Oliver sits on the frame and the way the front "cowling" comes down over the frame. In order to use most other (if not all other) weight distribution hitches one would need to cut away portions of this "cowling". Bill

Trish & Jack - I believe that since your account is listed under your "username", the only way to change the "username" is to delete your account and establish a new account under the new "username" that you desire. Of course this means that you will have to re-enter all of the other data that you need to, but .... If this is what you want to do then simply look for the drop down menu under the "Forums" tab at the top of this page, click on the "My Profile" in this drop down menu and then click the "gear" symbol. In the drop down menu that appears, click on "My Account" and then look towards the bottom of the screen for "delete account". Enter your current password and hit "delete". Then do what you initially did to set up your original account, but, use the new "username" that you desire. Bill

Mike & Carol - that is very nice and CLASSY - just like both of you! Bill

Fisher2 - just type Micro-air in the search box and you will get most of the info that I think you need. Also, note that effective August 31st the company that sells them will no longer be offering a discount directly to Oliver customers. However, if you order one from Oliver it is possible that they will get you a discount. Bill oops! I mis-read your post. However, I still think that you will get some helpful info if you do the search. But, I don't know if there is anything specific to the Honda EZ Start. Bill

Mike & Carol - Ya got a picture of your door magnets? Bill

dedroll - go to the main "Forum" tab ( the funny looking "F") and then type "tools" in the search box. I'd skip over the first 4 pages of results and go straight to page 5. Good luck - Bill

https://eclipse2017.nasa.gov/safety Thought I'd do a bit of quick research on this topic since it could be fairly important to the eyes. It appears that I was partially incorrect regarding the three year time limit - the "cheap" glasses DO NOT have an expiration as long as "eclipse viewers compliant with the ISO 12312-2 standard adopted in 2015". Also, welding helmets should have a rating of Shade 12 or higher. See the above NASA link for full details. Bill p.s. or you could donate your glasses - see: http://www.msn.com/en-sg/lifestyle/lifestylegeneral/dont-throw-away-your-solar-eclipse-glasses%e2%80%94heres-what-you-should-do-with-them-instead/ar-AAqB3Qp

Steve - I use that stuff all the time for cleaning my tires and wheels. Do not let it dry on virtually any surface. The cheapest price that I've been able to find is at WalMart. Bill

Those are the valves that are used to switch from "standard" pressure shore water hookup to Boondocking (i.e. drawing from the fresh water tank) to using the water pump to suck water into the fresh water tank from a non-pressurized source (i.e. five gallon bucket). Bill

Welding helmets are OK as long as they are of a high enough grade (sorry, but I don't remember exactly what that number is - 14?). As Sherry said, you can't be careful enough given that the damage to the eyes does not hurt when it is happening and most of us only get two (note that some mothers have an extra set in the back). Bill

Mike & Carol - our thoughts are with you guys and certainly with those directly in the path of this thing. Good luck and if there is ANYTHING that you might even think we could do to help, just yell. Bill

Sherry - be careful in that I understand that the typical glasses only have a usable life to them of about three years. Bill

I don't think that "303" will help solve your black streak problem. For those streaks under the "porch" lights you are going to have to seal those gaskets with something - Captain Tolly's Crack or you might want to call Richie (he took Jason's job in customer service since Jason is doing other stuff) - at 931-306-9232) and ask if he still has some of the sealer that was given out at the 2017 Owner's Rally for this purpose. I've used any one of a number of brands of "detailer" that are sold in auto stores and WalMart to clean both the porch light and other black streaks - its easy, spray on wipe off. Good Luck! Bill

I agree on the "bargain" at $80, but why not get it NOW for $10! Bill