topgun2

Looks like you already have a good read on this one. Many commercial RV parks have cable so you don't need the Winegard for that. You've already got the DVD player and you have the ability to stream movies via your cell, so you don't need the Winegard for that. Depending on where you intend to do most of your camping - if it is in the boonies you will not have over the air TV signal - you just might not need it. So, unless you think that you might want to view a "local" weather and/or news program it looks like you simply don't need or want it. As John implied - you can always add it later. Bill

geO - welcome back to the land of camping. Glad to hear that medical issues and other non-camping issues have been taken care of so that you can get back to some real living. The last time I stayed at a military RV place I was on active duty and the beach was great - uncrowded, clean, quiet. I assume that the old rule still applies that one must be either active duty or retired from active duty in order to be able to use these facilities? Just being a nice guy with a nice RV and an honorable discharge will not cut it? Bill

Another plug for the Andersens - When it comes time to leave you can either simply drive off these ramps (slowly) or you can reverse your original direction. Assuming that you use a ramp for each of the two wheels you will have one ramp between the two wheels both starting and when you leave. It is simple to retrieve these because either one of the ramps fits easily between the two wheels. Since they come with their own chocks you can eliminate one of your two sets of chocks which frees up a bit of space for the Andersens. For situations where you might need height greater than the maximum 4 inches of the Andersens, you can use either "legos" type levelers or carry a couple of 2x6's. Either way - pick a method (probably the wood 2x6's is the least expensive) and experiment. You'll soon discover what works best for you. Bill

As John Davies says above, there is a method of opening and closing the mirrored doors that does not involve actually touching the mirrored part. Simply using your index finger you open the latch and then lightly pull on that latch as the door opens. As the door continues to open you leave you index finger in place allowing the door to fully open before removing your finger. When it comes time to close the door, again using your index finger, you reach behind the door placing your index finger in the latch. Then simply rotate your finger inside the latch surface as you lift and close the door. Really is a piece of cake and no prints are left on the mirrored part. Bill

To my knowledge the current gaskets have not been changed. The "problem" with the bleeding gaskets didn't appear on my Oliver until 6 to 9 months after delivery. At the Oliver Owner's Rally this past May, Oliver gave everyone in attendance a tube of clear Dow Aquarium sealant to be used on these gaskets to stop the bleeding. Basically this is a silicone sealant and I was hesitant to use it because I had read that one should never use silicone on a fiberglass trailer. In any case - I finally did use it (very lightly and carefully to not use anymore than necessary to cover just the exposed black gaskets). It has now been approximately 6 weeks and the gaskets have not bled. So, it appears that it "cured" the problem. How long will it last before it is necessary to re-apply? Don't know. If I was to do it again, I think that I'd try the Captain Tolley's - for no reason other than it appears to also work to cure the problem and I don't think that it is silicone. Bill

If you look very closely to the East you can probably see where you will be camped tomorrow night! Hope that Elizabeth is feeling better. Certainly looks like the weather is good for you - safe travels! Bill

In backing into a space I get the camper close to where I want it, but, since I'm still attached to the TV, in most cases, it is impossible to use the jack bubble level for anything. So, right after I brought Twist home I got it as leveled as possible and then attached a couple of Camco levels to the exterior near the belly line - one on the front and two on either side by the front door and near the bath window. Now when I get close I simply look at the bubble level on the front of the camper and estimate how much I will need to raise (or lower) that side in order to get the side to side issue close. Using the Andersen levelers makes this process a bit easier as compared to using the lego stacking blocks or scraps of wood. Once the side to side is taken care of and I disconnect from the TV I use the Jack level to get close but final adjustments are made by looking at the bubble level that I stuck to either side of Twist. If I'm stopping somewhere just for the night and not disconnecting from the truck, I again use the level on the front of the camper for the side to side issue and if the camper is nose down I use the jack and its level to get close as long as I don't need to raise the nose too far - I don't want to raise both the camper and the rear of the truck too far. These little levels only cost a couple of bucks and once they are stuck they don't seem to move. I would have purchased a larger level fro the front similar to what Reed and Karen have done, but, I've not been able to find one that I like the looks of yet. Bill

carbon - The absolute best thing that you can do is to see if you can arrange to see an Elite II twin bed in person. That way you can actually lie down in the bed and determine if it is suitable for you and the way you sleep. Hopefully there is one in your area. I'm right at 6 feet and am very comfortable but I did change from sleeping with my head at the end with the night stand because I like a bit of elbow room. Bill

I guess that the gaping hole in the front of you propane cover would not have been a sufficient enough reminder? Just kidding! Your idea keeps that cover from falling off into the dirt and keeps it right at hand so its easy to put back on. I did mine today - but - used a white cord.

Tom and Karen - good to hear that your plans are moving ahead and that you have "Officially" joined the Forum. That $1.50 tour was my pleasure. Please keep all of us informed as to how your Oliver adventure continues. Bill

Looks like we both got OOPS(itis). I thought that you were talking about something that "popped up" from the top of the battery to indicated the status of the water inside. Sorry about that! Those little "windows" on mine have never been white. Thanks for the catch! Bill

I just mentioned to a prospective Oliver buyer today that you had given me a 15-30 adapter and that it was the first time in 20 years that I had run into the problem. Moral of the story - either make sure that you have it on hand OR make sure that you are in the company of a very nice and generous person that will give you one. Thanks one more time for coming to my rescue. Bill

I went over to the storage yard this morning and took a couple of pictures of the installed vent cover. Hopefully this gives a better idea of what the finished product looks like. Bill

OK, here's a picture of my T-105's. No indicators.

Wall Drug here we come!

Since I'm not a home decorator nor have I ever had a choice in where things like outlets were placed, I found the whole process of making all these decisions the hardest part of getting my Oliver. I kept telling myself that most of these items could be added later if necessary, but, the perfectionist in me wanted it done right the first time. In the end it all came out well, but, there are still new options or new mods that someone smarter than me has thought of that makes me want to keep working on Twist. Perhaps, for me, that is all part of the experience and makes the whole deal even more fun. I'm excited for both of you - keep us posted on your progress. Bill

Thanks! A description is worth a thousand pictures/words. I'm always looking for things that will simplify jobs and/or automatically keep me from having to remember something. Now I will not have to remember to replace that cover since it will be attached. Bill

Reed & Karen - I've got the T105's and Hydrolink, but, you must have an "improved" version in that mine does not have either of the "indicators" that you mention. In the year and a half that I've owned Twist I've added approximately 1/3 gallon of distilled water and that includes the minor "waste" on each fill from the supply tube. I only popped the cap of one battery one time and the fill was acceptable and the performance of the batteries/solar system has been all that I could ask for. I'll be over at the storage yard tomorrow or Monday and take another specific look just to make absolutely sure of the indicators - you know how us old guys sometimes don't get it right the first time - and let you know if there is any change to my story. Bill

How about a close-up of that porthole leash?

With regards to the placement of the hooks - on the Elite II it is standard for one hook to be placed the the left of the bath door (as one looks into the bath from the kitchen) and another hook placed in the kitchen area. An optional hook placed to the right of the bath door is much more useful for towels, dry cloths while bathing, etc. Other uses for additional hooks are just inside the main entry door on the left (as you enter) for a garbage bag, dog leash, etc. , at the rear above the storage areas - to be used for hanging clothes while sleeping and/or for a clothesline, above the interior dinette seat for hats, garbage bag, etc., and in the kitchen area for stuff. If I were you I'd consider the additional hook outside the bath - just for its usefulness and for cosmetic reasons and then wait to decide on other(s) hook(s) until after you have used the camper for awhile. You can always add these later and/or use either suction cup hooks or Command hooks. Hope this helps.

David & Gail - I'm guessing that you might get some argument as to the additional cost of the on demand water heater but the only thing that I really saw was that you plan on the cell phone booster but are not planning on the WiFi booster. Obviously WiFi is a bunch cheaper than cell when you can get it. You might also have a discussion with the sales staff about extra interior hooks and the "porthole" on the front of the propane tank cover. Bill

FamousFrank - We have all taken many different roads towards Oliver. Almost all of us are very happy that we actually found our Oliver at the end - or - is that just the beginning? Anyway, welcome and hope that your road gets you there. Bill

On the subject of "interior cleaning" - I've asked a number of people what they use to clean the interior of the Oliver. Vinegar and water, Windex and several different brands of spray cleaners have been mentioned. A number of years ago I tried a product called Interior Detailer. There are several companies that make the stuff and it can be found in the automotive department of many stores. You simply spray it on and wipe it off. It leaves no streaks but does leave a smooth almost wax like finish. It even works on the shiny "glass-like" parts. Bill

Ed & Marsha - Sounds like a very happy anniversary indeed and also congrates to Mike & Carol! By any chance (Ed & Marsha) were you traveling east on Highway 64 towards Asheville on a Saturday about two weeks ago? I saw an Elite II with your graphics and flashed my lights to say hello. Bill

In my opinion, the most important part of John's post is contained in his first paragraph. "Being able to make electrical connections in a safe and secure way is critical. If you understand the fundamentals...". If one chooses to repair or add or modify virtually any system (to include the electrical system) a basic understanding of the fundamentals of how these systems work in critical in order to be safe. Not only should the connections be safe and secure, but, these connections should also be made in a manner that is safe and secure with regards to the entire system (i.e. don't overload circuits or tape into circuits that are voltage critical, or ...). In other words, if you do not understand electrical fundamentals and have at least a basic understanding of how the electric system you are working on is constructed, ask for help! It is simply not safe for both you and the systems you are working on to do otherwise. Bill