topgun2

Yep - same stuff I referenced above. Bill

What better reason do you need?😉

No need to remove - but - it would be helpful to many to know what the original "problem" was in order to reference it back. Bill

I've never had a problem with the single sharkbite fitting I put into my Ollie. I made sure to secure the fitting and pipes near it very well so that it does not move. I still carry a few spares (sharkbite straight and 90 degree fittings) with me in case I need to do a repair while on the road. However, if doing a pex repair of mod at home I use a crimp. Bill

Strange how this works!😁

I agree that they are cool and attach easily and will probably last a long time... But, this is one of those items that I've told myself I need but I simply can't figure out why I need them. Bill

THIS is what I bought for the dog house. But, it is still in my workshop unused because I've not needed it - yet. Bill

I also took a look for it in the "Playstore" this afternoon and apparently it is NOT there . Bill

Go to the back side of the detector and follow the wires. Shortly, you should run into a black round thing that is the fuse holder. Bill

Yes - this has been done by more than one owner (not me - yet). Yes - there is a way to place shut off valves in each of the lines mentioned. Being "practical" is in the eyes of the person doing the work or paying the bill for having the work performed for you. Good luck with your plumbing skills and working in tight quarters! Bill

Since you know that there really isn't any CO nor propane in the camper while it is in storage - why not simply take the fuse out of the detector. However, if you do this, please make sure in some manner that you put that fuse back in before using the Ollie the next time. Bill

I always do this but I then take Saran Wrap and cover the top of the toilet bowl so that the antifreeze doesn't evaporate over the winter. Perhaps this also serves to lessen the "fumes". Bill

As has been written many time here on the Forum - install these "gutters" on a very warm day and/or use a hair dryer or strong warm sun to warm both the area where the gutters will go and the gutters themselves, clean the area where they are to be applied VERY well, apply blue painters tape over the gutters to hold them securely in place for at least 24 hours. Due to the gutters wanting to stay straight and not bend around the curve of the windows, the more surface area that you give to be stuck to the side of the camper the better. If I had mine to do over again, I'd take the gutter down the sides of the windows just shy of 1/2 way - I only went down about 3 inches and that is not enough. Good luck! Bill

AND - not only was the repair less expensive but you also kept additional stuff out of the landfill! Good job! Bill

As if they knew we were talking about heating, Long Long Honeymoon just released THIS Video that contains some additional ideas. Bill

I found the little guy below at a garage sale for $5 about 12 years ago -it measures about 6x6x6 inches. It has a temp sensor, on/off switch and rotary switch where I can set the desired temp on the back of the unit. Like many of these electric space heaters its maximum wattage is 1500 and it can roast me out of the Ollie if I leave it on full blast for over 30 minutes without setting the adjustable control lower. However, I never leave it on overnight or while I'm not in the camper. Bill

Obviously, there is still movement in there somewhere and the frame really isn't meant to stop it - it is simply a trim piece. It is fairly easy to take that trim piece off and then use scrap wood to shim around the Microwave in order to "wedge" it into place. I'd suggest doing this sooner as opposed to later since that trim piece will continue to worsen and the sheet metal of the microwave could actually break from flexing over and over again - see the pic below and notice that two of the supporting "feet" on the microwave actually failed due to this. Bill

That's not fair! No wax job I ever did (cars, trucks, campers) ever was as slick or shiny as the Oliver after CGI had their way with it.

Gonz - I assume that you have an Elite II. Can you tell us what year you have? Thanks. Bill

If it was in camo - how'd you even see it?🙂

Everyone does! The folks at the Mothership are even nicer than their camper. Bill

I'm certainly glad that I had it done! The CGI guys are first rate both in the work that they do and the kind of people they are. I only wish that there were more people of their age with the kind of work ethic and attitude they have. The cost is basically a "push" for me and most of the people I've talked to. If you have someone that does a good job of polishing and waxing your Oliver you are fortunate but these people are not cheap. Sure, if you do the job yourself, you (hopefully) do the job right, but the time and effort are expensive in terms of what you are missing and how hard you are working. I've never had an "easy" place to wash and wax my Ollie. Since Twist is located in a storage yard I needed to make several trips back and forth all the while hoping that the weather would cooperate with my schedule. Now that its been coated it is much easier to wash and shines better than ever. Also, while on the road, the bugs are easier to get off. This depends a bit on how you take care of the trailer. If you do not live in a place like south Florida or Arizona and keep the Ollie clean (i.e. keep the bugs off and keep it washed or covered) the coating will last longer. But, then again, if you live in a relatively harsh environment you would probably need to wax more often too. From my experience, it seems that my coating will last well into two years and possibly three before needing to be redone. But, I just might have the CGI guys do a refresh this coming year because the Ollie has never been so shiny as it is after they get done with it. Bill

That stuff sure ain't cheap! 🤑

Try a PM (private message) to Bugeyedriver here on the Forum. I know that he has spent some time in that area. Bill

Nope - the Dutch ones! 😁