topgun2

Dusty - Just get the "dust" off that #89 and she'll serve you well. (I'm sorry - I just could not resist). Welcome! As you get 89 back in working order be mindful that Oliver has continually upgraded components and systems over the years. Therefore, be sure to check exactly what model and year any particular Forum post is talking about because any advice given just may or may not apply to your trailer. Please let us know if there is anything that we can do to help. Bill

I do happen to live in the only county in the USA that is named - Transylvania! Halloween here is a blast for a town of only about 8,000 residents. Bill

Yes! And, its still a bad idea.

It was probably actually Jason Essary (Service Manager). Bill

GJ - Actually, THAT pic was taken in my workshop. The two holes in the "L" plate are from those self tapping screws that I put in place (the first time) through the 4 inch circle that I cut in the floor of the cubbie above the MW. I could never tell if the "L" plate is screwed hard against the MW cavity ceiling because you simply can't see in there once the MW is in place. However, if it is not hard against then it must be fairly close. The "problem" is that the two screws are the only thing holding the MW in place and the "case" of the MW is simple sheet metal. So, even if the "L" bracket is hard against the top there will still be flex in the rest of the MW cabinet which will place strain on the only other contact point(s) the face plate. I frankly was surprised by how much the MW still moved. But, bouncing down dirt roads let alone expansion joints on our super smooth interstates just might explain a bunch of things. No, I did not epoxy or "liquid nail" anything in place - the simple friction fit seemed to do the trick. All I was trying to do was to keep the MW from bouncing and it appears that I succeeded. If you try to do something similar to what I did - be mindful of trying to not restrict airflow too much given the heat that can collect in and around the MW. It is rare that I use my MW for longer than 3 or 4 minutes in one sitting. But, for years it was the lack of airflow inside this space that prevented Oliver from offering something like the convection oven that is now available. Bill p.s. In re-reading your comments above I'm thinking that a better mental pic of the wood box(s) into which the MW is placed might be of some benefit. Basically, it appears to be a box inside a box or at least a three sided box inside a box with the three sides being the top and (at least ) two sides - I'd bet on a regular five sided box with one side missing - the front where the MW slides in, but, since I didn't want to tear what was there apart, I really don't know. Having said this - I was a bit surprised when Oliver Service told me that I would need to drill a 4 inch hole in the cubbie above. And, when I drilled that hole (it absolutely ruined a 4 inch carbide hole saw doing this - that fiberglass in really touch stuff - I looked in expecting to see the area where the MW was located. All I saw was what turned out to be the top of the "wood box" I mentioned above. Blindly, I drilled pilot holes for the self tapping screws and that is where the two holes in the "L" bracket came from. Next, I was worried that I'd play hell getting those two screws back into those two holes when it came time to put the MW back in place the second time. But, (maybe luck was on my side) it was a piece of cake given that I (obviously) slide the MW right back into the same original position. Hopefully this helps. p.p.s. Where did you dig up that pic? A moldy oldie for sure. I had forgotten that I even took the pic.

Well - Its a bit of a long story and - sorry - no pics. When originally delivered the microwave in my Ollie wasn't installed properly - a bracket that supposedly held the microwave in place from the top simply wasn't there. This caused the MW to simply bounce around in the "box" where it resides with only the four trim screws that hold the face plate onto the outside fiberglass actually holding the entire unit. As you might imagine, those four 3/4 inch screws didn't hold much in place for very long. Supposedly, the fix was to drill a 4 inch hole through the fiberglass floor of the storage cubbie located directly above the MW. Then remove the MW and install the correct missing bracket. Slide the MW back in place and "blindly" screw two self tapping screws through the inner MW support box (this is accessed through the 4 inch hole mentioned above). While this "fix" stopped some 80% of the MW movement, the fact was that the MW was still only held in place via those two screws and bracket at the top of the MW. This meant that the MW could still move around at the bottom. So, once again, I removed the trim plate, installed "lumber" on both the sides and the front and back of the MW such that the MW simply had nowhere to "run". The trim plate hides all of the ugliness so I didn't have to worry about being pretty. Note that my MW sits on rubber feet which gave me room to wedge this lumber all around the bottom of the MW while at the same time wedging it against the side walls, back and front of the interior cabinet. The last piece of wood was actually "tapped" into place at the front of the opening where there is a bit of a lip. Hope this helps. Bill p.s. I'd take the trim plate off and take pics for you but those trim screws have been in and out of the fiberglass a number of times such that I'd rather not deal with the possibility of repairing a stripped screw at this point.

I really like Meriwether Lewis. If you haven't been there, you can get water from the spigot located on the back side of the water fountain which is located right in front of the restrooms. The price is right - free. And, its located only about 7 miles from the Service area. Bill p.s. if you need GPS just let me know. p.p.s. there is no dump at ML. But, you can always dump at the Oliver Service area.

Ya just got to keep those eyes open these days.😃 Bill

I'm guessing that Oliver Service would be able to tell you - assuming that you opened or added to a Service ticket. Good luck! Bill. p.s. We do not have the same type of installation as you do. but, when I was having similar issues with my 2016 I wound up taking the facia trim off, shimming (with scrap pieces of wood) the microwave in such a manner that a earthquake would not move it and replaced that trim. Haven't had a problem since.

At least I'm still here! But, 4 eight year old lead acid batteries and a old inverter isn't going to do much to add to the question asked - sorry😔

This YouTuber has been doing a series on the lack of quality in RV's and dealerships. However, she heard about the Oliver and posted this video about an hour ago.

Jason - Thanks for the hat. Bill

Try a few of the Stella cans and you probably won't care.

No joke - other than I probably should have said - new windows for your house, not your Oliver. Bill

Would a "Stella" can work too? Got plenty of those! 😁

Anybody need some new windows?😃

Jason - I'll add my "welcome" to this growing list. Yes, you have bought a camper. But, you have also "bought" a company that is more than likely actually different from any other company you have dealt with in the past. So many companies simply give lip service to things like quality and customer service but if your experience is like mine - that is all it is, "lip service". Yes, Oliver is not perfect. But, they will do what they say they are going to do, when they say they are going to do it. And, they will keep at it until any "problem" they created is fixed - not with a Band-Aid but actually fixed. The next couple of months is actually a very short time. You have a bunch to do. It is very helpful that you appear to be experienced campers with an RV. But, while the basic systems in an Oliver are much like those in other campers, there are nuances that are different enough that knowing about them prior to taking delivery should make your early experiences much easier. This Forum and the Oliver University are your friends and you should make yourself very familiar with them prior to delivery. We are here to help you! Just shout. Bill

And, still have the best looking uniforms (IMO). Bill

Strange - I thought that the "new" alarm units were the propane/CO combination units. At least on the older Elite II's the "smoke detector" that is usually located in the back street side corner is a combination smoke/CO detector which takes care of the fact that CO is lighter than air. Bill

Actually the stuff that Oliver has used for insulation has been similar to Reflectix but instead of being basically "bubble wrap" in between the foil it is a foam composite of some sort. Here are a few pictures which show how and where this is applied to the shells prior to them being joined together. Bill

I'd love to join you! But, even if you offered to pay the speeding tickets I don't think I could make it in time from Western North Carolina.😁 Bill

I had previously heard (and it was discussed here on the Forum) that the touch lights were not going to be present on the 2024 models. However, I've not heard anything additional on this subject. Bill p.s. It has also been confirmed that the upper fridge vent on the exterior of the Ollie will not be there anymore - i.e. the outside shell will be smooth. However, the bottom fridge vent that turned into a collapsible table will continue to be the table.

I do not have "touch lights" but I really do like both the idea and execution of these shades. Nice thinking and doing! 👌 Bill

Hard to believe.

I don't know if there is any magnet(s) on the new doors or not. But, I'm assuming that the other hardware - the latch - will be similar to the latch that is on the closet door. Yes - mine operates as it should. However, particularly if the camper is a fair degree out of level, the strip of magnet at one corner or the other may not "release" at the same rate as the rest of the door. This can cause the door to vibrate as apparently VBistro is mentioning. The solution(s) to this problem is to either correct the alignment of the door or open the door more slowly or reduce the amount of magnetic attraction that is occurring. Of course, if you reduce the amount of magnetic attraction then you might be in trouble going down the road if you forget to use the latch or some other means to secure the door. Bill p.s. Mike - this only has to do with the bath door being opened and nothing to do with it being held open.