topgun2

That's OK - I know where there might be a couple more. Besides, those note cards also were gone over a year ago! Bill

There just might be a "Ravel Wine" glass in it for you if you do!😉 Bill

Really? Does having THAT tractor count as "alone"? I really like the thread title though. Bill

Nope! The spare tire housing was originally designed to fit a 15 incher. But Oliver changed to 16 inch tires at some point and never got around to changing that housing - this includes both the exterior cover and the indent in the two outside molds. However, Oliver was again "forced" to change back to a 15 inch tire due to supply issues thus making a possible change to the molds unnecessary. So, My spare is a 15 incher and the other four "running" tires are 16 while the newer Ollies are 15 inch all around (including the spare). I'm sure that someone has those exact dates of change (ScubaRx maybe) but it is easy to see which spare you have. Bill p.s. perhaps it is understandable concerning the spare tire issue when you know that a single exterior main body mold costs something in excess of $2,000,000.00 to fabricate. I'm guessing that a change to that mold might cost a bit less but then you've got to consider the cost of taking it out of production while the change is being made to it.

John & Debbie - Below is a pic of the black window molding. Please disregard the black "louver" in the pic since it was/is a mod done by another owner and is not available for sale (that I know of). Note that one pic is from the outside while the other is from inside the trailer. Bill

Sam - WELCOME! It appears that you have already done a bunch more than many owners in researching, thinking, weighing, etc. and adjusting your hitch setup. As with a number of things regarding towing and RV there tend to be a number of different opinions and/or approaches to the subject. And, virtually no matter how you setup the rig, many of the factors that went into the setup depend on what the "current situation" just might be. But, as a starting point, leveling the tow vehicle and the trailer (as close as possible) is a good thing. Then as you load, unload, have different levels of fluid in your tanks, different amounts of food and drink, different amounts of cloths and related items, different selections of tools, etc. both the amount of weight and the distribution of that weight is likely to change. Also, the type of terrain that you will tow over will likely change - possibly even during one trip. Within reason, your initial setup would appear to cover the vast majority of circumstances. But, be prepared to make adjustments if you encounter off-road situations, very uneven and/or rough roads , or your weights in either the tow vehicle or the trailer change (i.e. you carry another couple of passengers with you, buy that really sweet big (and heavy) grill/fire pit, etc. Yes, I believe that the work you have put into your setup does matter and will make your towing experience safer and more pleasant. But, if you encounter the rough terrain I mention above and feel uncertain about it then it don't hesitate to temporarily loosen those Andersen chains in order to take some of the strain off the frame (but, if you do this, be sure to put them back to your "normal" setup after you have resumed your "normal" towing). Bill

Yes - I'd try all of the other possible solutions before going down this road. But, it you have mold under there you might try spraying a bit of diluted bleach in order to kill it. Bill

I think that I've mentioned this before - Before one turns into Camp Hale off the main highway, be sure to stop in a turnout and look at the ponds located right by the road - there is a family of beavers in those ponds that can often be seen doing their "beaver thing" here. Bill

Small cans of compressed air can be used for multiple purposes in and around the Oliver. I always have a can with me like THIS. Bill

Sounds to me like you have some mineral buildup in the line to the toilet. Something is preventing/slowing that flow into the toilet and, therefore, causing the slow "fill". There are several threads here on the Forum concerning getting rid of mineral buildup (or other blockages) in the water lines. Bill p.s. you might also look at YouTube videos like THIS one.

Have you tried taking that black inner track cover off? Bill

Have you tried THESE things? To get things really clean I still have to use a "Q Tip" for deep in the corners and where the two windows meet. But a light spray of Simple Green or 409 or .... and a couple of swipes of one of these really does get things clean. Bill

Are you absolutely sure that your rig didn't come with a charger?

How's this? Bill

OK - Who is going to repair a flat tire with one of THESE new tire repair kits (screw in plugs) and let me know how it performs? Bill

Here's another pic of the grey water tank - from the rear of the Ollie. The plywood covers most of the tank but the drain can be seen. Bill

Very carefully?😁 Actually, I think that this would be a close to impossible task. The reason for this thinking is that it would be extremely unlikely that the location of the attachment of the emergency brake cable on the tow vehicle would be the same as the location of the emergency brake switch (located for most of us on the driver's side frame) and the tow vehicle and trailer would be lined up in exactly the same way during the accident as it was when initially secured to the TV and the trailer. Virtually any turn to the left by the tow vehicle would tend to shorten the distance between the switch and the cable's point of attachment and vice versa for a turn to the right. Then add any hinderance of the cable which might make that distance between the the cable attachment point and the switch relatively shorter or longer plus the braking differences of the two moving objects that you mention all would tend to make for this impossible task of getting the distance "dialed in". In the only case I know about where the trailer became detached from the tow vehicle, I believe that the emergency brake switch WAS activated and the trailer slowed much faster than the tow vehicle. In turn, this kept the safety chains tight preventing the bulldog from digging into the pavement. Bill

I've never noted any "testing" but I have always said that the Andersen does give the user an additional point of contact between the tow vehicle and the trailer. Of course, if the "accident" involved virtually anything to do with the hitch ball and/or its connection to the TV then the Andersen chains would be of little to no use. Bill

I have camped in the Telluride City Park campground. Its a bit crowded and they used to charge for showers via one of those quarters in the machine deals, but, it is very close to town (i.e. you can walk easily). I understand that they still allow camping there - but - you must make reservations online. Try THIS for info and reservations. Bill

Gj - The rest of that sentence is "of attachment to that tow vehicle". The emergency brake cable is there to slow/stop the trailer in the event it becomes detached from the tow vehicle. With any luck, the safety chains would keep the tow vehicle and the trailer attached to each other AND the emergency brake cable would become "tight" enough so as to activate the emergency brake switch - thus activating the trailer brakes in such a manner that the trailer would slow faster than the tow vehicle. This would help help prevent the trailer from slamming into the back of the tow vehicle but keep the safety chains tight enough such that the hitch would not dig into the pavement. This very thing happened once to our very own Bugeyedriver and there was no real damage done to either his tow vehicle nor the trailer. Bill

Mfg only - it saves wear and tear on the tank and insulation let alone safety underfoot for the workers. No real idea - other than they didn't have another piece of plywood? I'll take a look but I can't put my finger (mouse) on it right now. Bill

p.s. Of course I have assumed that you are getting an Elite II. Bill

Lamar - There are several places here on the Forum where you can see pics of the location of the fresh water tank (and grey/black tanks). I believe that these pics will generally confirm your idea of the placement for these tanks. Another consideration (for more than one reason) regarding the tanks is the depth of the tanks - they are not very tall but they are relatively wide and long. The good news is that this helps with the weight distribution of the contents - keeps the weight low and more evenly distributed over the frame relative to other RV's. The bad news is that the Oliver can be a bit more subject to its "level" - if the Oliver is slanted towards the nose, it will drain the tanks somewhat more slowly than other RV's. For what its worth - I generally try to not tow relatively long distances with anything in my tanks. This is not due to problems with either the frame or body of the camper, but, more weight due to the water is certainly not going to help with the MPG on my tow vehicle. In the pic below you can see the fresh water tank (on the left) and its relation to the wheel wells and front door. Hope this helps you! Bill