Wayfinder

@jd1923 I too love watching "My RV Works". I also still have the Dometic RM2454. My fridge will not stay on left 5. The light usually goes out after a while or immediately depending on ambient temps (so it seems). Not sure it's the eyebrow or board. I've been wanting to delve into it more, but I'm a bit afraid I will break something worse. I'm such a scaredy cat. I don't mind breaking it with someone with me or if it doesn't work at all. LOL. I'm so complex.

Welcome @Chuck and Beth. I took nearly 10 years to decide on a camping vehicle/format. Can't say I rushed into things. Enjoy it and continue to learn how things work on your Ollie here in the forums.

@ronbrink Which flagpole and suction cups setup is that on the Ollie? Thanks,

I'm also considering placing the Starlink mini on the cap of the truck, that way it's always available for the truck or camper use. But put it on a removable mount to find clear sky if under light tree-cover.

@jd1923 I'll drive out to see you soon enough. I'll bring your favorite ice cream and drink.

I wish I had see the performance of the RecPro before I put it on this year. I'm not happy with it. I will try Trim-LOK next time. It won't be long before the rest just falls off.

Does everyone's outdoor shower head basically stink? As in horrible water pressure? I even replaced mine in the past two years with the same model as original, because original cracked as they all do. Maybe I have junk in the Pex line to the shower head, or the head stinks. I'm sure there's a thread around here somewhere. I figured I'd ask since it's being talked about. Thanks.

When I installed my accumulator tank in my old #110, I put a new mounting board up for it, I think it was PVC board maybe. Anyways, my first attempt to glue it to the fiberglass hull near the water pump did not hold long. I then tried Gorilla Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (white). Oh man, was I impressed with that. That board has not moved since, and may never. I've used it now on other projects. It seems good to me. I'm also surprised that the remainder of the adhesive, in the opened tube, has not hardened up yet, nearly two years later. Then again, I keep it in the air conditioned house. I need to add a small tube or two of this to my tool packing list for long travels.

@jd1923 I'm going to be keeping things as simple as possible when I travel all around that nation soon. I'm hoping just having a Starlink mini will be good enough. Naturally trees as obstructions will kill the Starlink performance. My first thought when I see all the cool things you've done with the cellular booter and stuff is.... "No! I'm doing all that. I just retired from my IT job." Give me all the bad things I'm not thinking about. Maybe I bring some old DVDs, books, and cuddle more with the woman. 😉

Yeah, I like having a freezer for ice and a good ice pack for the back & neck. Looks like the Nova fridge uses a lot less power at about 4.5A on 12v. My old 3-way burns at least 10amps on DC, but my 4 good AGMs sustain that all day, with Solar coming in. I'm estimating that the Nova, without a freezer, might run on a Jackery 1000 for approximately 30 to 35 hours. I always travel with at least one of my Jackery 1000s portable power units, for among other things, running my 12v Truma Cooler that I either carry in the cab of the truck or in the camper itself. The Truma cooler runs at least two days on that portable power unit, and I seldom charge past 85%, depending how hold I want things and the ambient temps. I'm estimating that the Nova, without a freezer, might run on a Jackery 1000 for approximately 30 to 35 hours. But that remains to be seen, and weather dependent. In theory, and if I put my money where my mouth has been, I'll be retired in 122 days. (Fine, yes, I'm counting)

I will get an external screen cover to put around the overflow pipe, like those that cover furnace exhausts.

I grabbed my borescope and not only grabbed some pics of the rusted screen in the overflow pipe, but a short video of my borescope magnet attachment trying to pull more screen out. Some of the rotted screen simply fell out upon touching it. I got the rest out with a long angled pick. Also, I had drained my fresh water tank on Sunday after a trip, but did not raise the nose of the camper high enough to remove enough water. You can see the reflection of the borescope light in the water. So I raised the rear jack stands, and raised the nose up a good bit more to drain even more water. I bet no one has shown the inside of the water tank before. LOL I can now see how an old rusted screen mesh could block the overflow. Also time to clean tank. fresh-water-overflow-screen-removal.mp4

That's all I can figure happened - the overflow got blocked. Since my screen in the overflow is falling apart with rust, it's letting most of the water out fast. I was wondering of those plastic strands, from making the tank holes, blocked that person's overflow, instead of going through the pump screen. When I purchased my #110 used in 2021, the pump screen was full of those strands from the drill holes. But have not seen them since. I also got push-back that the trailers do not have built-in 40-50 lb water regulators. Well, mine came with them in the basement, under the floor board (discovered last year when replacing check valves). I typically push 70 PSI of house water into my fresh tank all the time. Now I'm scared to let overflow too long just to help flush things. So far, so good though. Knock on fiberglass.

Has anyone taken a pic of the inside of their fresh water tank overflow, near the walk-in door? Here's mine. Looks like there's a metal screen falling apart. At least my tank won't blow up like a ballon and warp the trailer. That's something. 🫣 I'm wondering if this inside piece does unscrew from what appears to be the outer ring.

I did get under my rig with my creeper and a bright flashlight. I took some pics too, but they are not really worth loading up here. So far, everything looks good and things appear to be moving as they should. However, when I put my springs on, I was a bit "anal" and even added a finger size of grease on the shackles where the springs would be touching and rubbing. I knew the 65 ft lbs may be an issue, so I gave everything a fighting chance to move freely. LOL Seems to have worked. I do have grease pushed out to the far side of the wet bolt/shackle area, but then again I used a Ryobi battery powered grease gun, which seem quite powerful, and FAST.