topgun2

In response to another Elite II owner's request for graphics files for the "old" side decals I happened to be with Matt Duncan when we went on a search for these files. Matt thought that he knew exactly where they were housed - both on the original computer main hard drive and the USB memory stick backup of that hard drive. Unfortunately, BOTH of the file folders for both the USB and hard drive had been erased and replaced by other files. We tried to re-constitute these deleted files without success (after about two hours of trying). Given the nature of the files that replaced the original graphics files, it would appear to me that a somewhat inexperienced employee had done the deed. And, since the "marketing/advertising/video production/rally organizing/printing/etc." department for the travel trailers basically has no full time employees (at this point) there simply wasn't anyone there to watch the "store" or computers or files. Yes, it would be nice to think that files of this and other natures would be housed securely, but, its not exactly easy to get into the area where these files were located. Now, having said all this - I would think that the artwork for the "nose" and "tail" just might still be around. As I recall, during our search for the "side" decals there was/is still a file or two with the "Oliver Elite II" artwork for the various different font types that have been over the years. I will ask and see if they can be found and report back here. This might take a bit of time, so, please be patient. EDIT: Any additional information that I obtain will be posted under a new thread such that we don't hijack this thread any longer on this topic. Bill p.s. Basically during the search for these side decals and for the hull number plaques is how we discovered that the side decals files had been lost. Also, there were/are only a handful of people that were familiar with all the things that went on in Matt's old department. So, its not surprising (at least to me) that information about these types of things would be somewhat limited.

I'd be looking into the possible reasons for this "getting stuck" issue. The way these things work is not all that complicated and most likely something is not aligned properly or it needs a touch of lube or there is something getting "caught" in there, or something is bent, etc. Bill

As with anything else, I'm sure that there are some zerks that are better made (materials, craftsmanship, etc.) than others. However, given the relatively simple design and purpose of these things, I've never given the cost of a zerk or where or how its made much thought. Heck, you can buy as many of these little things as you most likely could ever use for much less than $50. Having said this - I would strongly suggest that for any new zerks and/or even old zerks, the usage of protective caps over the zerks helps keep them cleaner and less likely to get "plugged" by keep most dirt out of that little spring loaded ball that is in the end of the zerk. Bill

Assume that you realize that this is a relatively expensive option versus simply tapping new threads and replacing the "cheap" zerks?

An occasional good cleaning and a shot of WD-40 will make these things last a long time. Pay particular attention to the little "ball" in one end and the "push button" in the other and also give the holes in the bumper a little shot of lube (WD-40 or something similar) from time to time. Bill p.s. you might also take a look in Tractor Supply if that is easier - they used to carry these pins.

You're a "senior"?

In the past - if you mention that you are with the Oliver Rally, there is special pricing.🤑 Bill

Care to share where you went "south"?

Given your picture, if it were mine, I'd break out the Q-tips and clean those small holes really well. Then - assuming that I could see threads in there - I'd remove one of the zerks from the other EZ Flex, clean it and take it to the local NAPA store. They should be able to get you a couple of exact replacements. Then I'd drive home and using only my fingers I'd see if these new zerks would thread into the existing holes. If they do then the job is basically complete. Bill

While not guaranteed, I would not sweat the being just outside the two year warranty period. If, indeed, this was Oliver's error, I be willing to bet that they will make you "good" regardless of the warranty having expired. On the other hand, if it is just a case of the zerks missing, it is certainly possible that they became dislodged or broken and, therefore, the "fault" would/should not be laid at the door of Oliver. Simply put, Oliver should/would not be held responsible for those things that are entirely out of their direct control. Unfortunately, I'm not too sure just how one might go about proving and/or disproving that the zerks were not or were in the appropriate positions at the time of delivery. My experience would suggest that if you "even handedly" made your case and could show reasonable "proof" that the zerks were not where they should have been then Oliver will most likely take care of you. Of course in this case it helps that zerks are not very expensive. On the other hand, if there is no place for the zerks that should be there, this is ,obviously, easy to prove and, again, I believe that Oliver will take care of you. Good luck! Bill p.s. In my business dealings and general discussions with the staff at Oliver, I've found that a professional even handed approach tends to be received much better than what might be considered an angry confrontational approach.

That's great to hear - I'm already on their schedule for early September, 2026! Bill p.s. that gal is looking good 😎

Having remembered instructions included with a backpacking personal water filter I have, I asked "Google AI" the following question: "do camping water filters need anything between uses?" And the reply was: "Yes, camping water filters need cleaning and drying between uses to prevent bacteria and algae growth. After each trip, you should flush the filter with clean water and allow it to dry completely before storing it in a cool, dry place, preferably in a sealed bag. For long-term storage, some manufacturers recommend a more thorough cleaning with a diluted bleach solution or sanitization, and it's always best to follow the specific instructions for your filter model. " Certainly makes sense to me. Bill

Steve - Do you just lose pressure at the head of the faucet or does the loss of pressure also effect the kitchen? Do you know how far you pull the faucet out before it starts effecting the pressure? Bill

I doubt that the "Company Store" will happen any time soon. Since the end of the Covid induced boom in RV sales, the RV market has not been anywhere near even what it was prior to Covid. This along with many economists predicting an economic downturn plus an unsettled political climate basically forced Oliver (along with much of the RV industry) to reduce staff. In turn, this reduction in staff has caused even fewer people to be available for what might be called "non-essential" activities. Please be reminded that Oliver is very sensitive to not only its own bottom line, but, also the well being of its employees. During the 2008 recession when Oliver stopped producing travel trailers, Oliver was the only company (that I know of) that never laid off any of its employees. Those employees that were involved with travel trailers were all offered comparable jobs in other areas of the overall company - like the walk-in tub line. Bill

According to AI: "No, propane tanks are not required to be on the ground to be refilled; in fact, for safety and stability, above-ground tanks must be placed on a solid, level surface, like a concrete slab. While some tanks are buried underground, the key requirement for refilling is accessibility for the delivery truck, not a specific placement on the ground. Above-ground tanks Placement: Must be placed on a stable, level surface like a concrete slab or compacted granite to prevent instability from water runoff. Accessibility: The tank needs to be easy to access, with the propane truck able to get within about 80 feet. Safety: The area should be well-ventilated and clear of obstructions like trees, shrubbery, or power lines that could cause damage or block access. " I suspect that what you are running into are local dealer (or even national chain store) standard practices that are designed to lessen the loads that workers have to carry/lift combined with their not wanting to be held liable for damages to RV's and/or other structures due to troubles getting tanks in/out of reasonably confined spaces. As we all know, propane tanks are not light and getting them in/out of our Ollies is not the easiest task regardless of the tanks being full or empty. Frankly, I insist on taking these tanks in/out all by myself because I don't want damage done to my Oliver by someone that simply isn't as careful. There have been a number of discussions here on the Forum over the years about aluminum/fiberglass tanks and I'm certain that at least one owner has them. Good luck! Bill

Cort - Any chance you could "borrow" a handle from one of the other valves down there? Or, is there an Ace Hardware/Home Depot/Lowe's nearby where you could purchase a replacement? Bill

Dirt - Actually, if you look around, you have more of these "drains" than you have found - so far. These are "scupper" holes similar to those found in kayaks/boats. They serve the purpose of removing any water/moisture that manages to collect between the inside and outside shells of your Oliver. Generally this water/moisture is in the form of condensation - not actual dripping water. Since you have found dripping water this (almost certainly) is a sign that you have a leak in your plumbing system - somewhere. Bill

Pat - As far as I know, the dates for the Rally are as posted. However, I believe that the campground for any State Park in AL does not allow reservations until (at least) 12 months (to the day) before your arrival. Bill

Here's what "AI" has to say about the blown fuses: "Your Suburban water heater is blowing fuses due to electrical problems like a faulty heating element, a short circuit in the wiring, or a failing thermostat. You should first check the wiring for loose or damaged connections and test the heating element and thermostat with a multimeter to identify the source of the electrical overload or short circuit." Since you state that the on/off switch located on the water heater itself is always in the off position, it is likely that a bad heating element is not the problem. Therefore, I'd look at the wiring and then the thermostat first. Bill p.s. there are a number of videos on YouTube on how to test the water heater - like THIS ONE

Well - As long as you're sure that you will continue to have electricity to run that electric heater AND you open all of the "hatches" to the basement and other areas between the hulls, you should be OK without the propane furnace. If you are in a situation where you need the bed areas and therefore could not open those hatches then you could always use a small fan on low speed in order to move heated air into the space under the beds. Of course, you would also leave the bath door open. Bill

As you might remember - We received a notification here on the Forum about a month ago (maybe two) concerning a change in the way parts, service and the production unit all interact. While this is still no excuse for "dropping the ball" (particularly on such a small thing) the internal sorting out of new and different responsibilities just might help explain where and/or how the ball was dropped. Bill

No problems here ( with the step bolts) for the first ten years. Bill

We all know just how "smart" AI is - but - here is what it has to say: Furrion TVs are generally considered good value for money, particularly for outdoor or RV use, offering strong weatherproofing and durability alongside good brightness and 4K picture quality for their price point. While they excel in their specialized applications with features like high-visibility displays and robust connectivity, they are best viewed as solid, cost-effective mid-tier smart TVs rather than premium, high-end models. Key Strengths Outdoor Durability: Furrion TVs are built to withstand harsh outdoor conditions, with various models offering different levels of weatherproofing (e.g., IP54 rated) and the ability to operate in a wide range of extreme temperatures. Brightness: They offer excellent brightness, especially their outdoor models, making them suitable for use in various lighting environments, including partial and even full sun. 4K UHD & Smart Features: Furrion TVs provide 4K Ultra High Definition images with rich contrast, and newer models feature smart capabilities for seamless streaming and Wi-Fi connectivity. Value & Affordability: Many reviews highlight Furrion TVs as a good value for the price, making them a cost-effective choice for upgrading home entertainment systems or RVs. Specialized Design: Many are designed for specific environments like RVs and campers, meaning they are "road-ready" and built to handle vibrations and extreme temperatures common in such applications. Considerations Picture Quality Comparison: While good, the picture quality is comparable to standard mid-tier TVs, rather than high-end technologies like OLED or QLED. Sound Quality: While improving with soundbars, built-in sound quality may not be as exceptional as that of an indoor, home-theater-focused TV. Weight: Some models, particularly the larger outdoor units, can be quite heavy, which is worth considering for installation. Specific Use Case: Furrion TVs are a great choice for outdoor or RV use, but for a high-end indoor home theater, a different brand might offer superior picture and sound quality.

Of course you can do this - but Many times those spare tires are not easily accessed. In the Ollie you either have to purchase a valve extension or basically remove the spare in order to simply check that spare's pressure. With my F-150 I would have to lower the spare from its position up under the bed of the truck before I could check its pressure. The extra TPMS sensor usually saves me the effort of dealing with both of these "problems". Bill

@jd1923 Since our hull #'s are so close, I would doubt that there is much difference in how our water lines were treated. Given this, I have never had an issue with city water pressure. While I've never really checked to see if I have "restrictors", I'm guessing that you might find that there is something else going on. Bill