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topgun2

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Everything posted by topgun2

  1. Probably for good reason! Bill
  2. Tideline77 - If you really want to jump down the rabbit hole on water heaters then you might be interested in looking up an old mod that could save you some propane and water. This is particularly helpful if you boondock a bunch or are really frugal. Using a cheap meat thermometer that has a "remote" probe, you can insert the probe under the water heater insulation, feed the cable from the probe out of the cold air return where you would place the readout. In my case, when the readout reads around 95 or 96 degrees it means that the water in the tank is actually about 104 degrees. At that point I turn off the propane and only use the hot water valve in the shower (i.e. I don't even turn on the cold water because the hot water by itself is already at my desired showering temperature of 104 degrees). This saves propane since the heater wouldn't normally shut off until the water reached about 140 degrees. And, it saves water since I don't have to "fiddle" with the mixing the hot and cold to get the temp back down to the desired 104 degrees. Bill
  3. OK. If you have the electric switch on the outside in the "on" position and then turn the water heater switch that is inside the Oliver to the "on" position AND you are plugged into shore power, you will have BOTH electric and propane "on" at the same time. This will actually heat the water inside the Suburban faster than either of the two would heat it alone and it should not "harm" either heating system. If you are not connected to shore power then having the outside electric switch in the "on" position will not do anything since unless you have modified the original 110 volt wiring inside the Oliver. Bill
  4. John - With the relatively low height of the Oliver, I've never had a "problem" with height for overpasses and/or bridges. Since I travel alone a fair percentage of the time, I find that the large screen of the Garmin 890 really helps, plus, I don't use any of my cell phone data with the Garmin. Also, the Garmin will automatically re-route me in the event of an accident or road closure or simply heavy traffic (if it determines that there is a quicker route available). Having said all this - I do also use the Ford Navigation on longer trips. There have been a few times when arriving at an intersection, the Garmin and the Ford do not give the same directions. If I'm not familiar with the roads and/or where I'm headed, I'll usually default to the Garmin. Bill
  5. Tideline77 - Which water heater do you have?
  6. Given that there seems to be more people that have missed the deadline this year than usual - please let us know what Jason tells you. Bill
  7. Obviously I was wrong about them liking be best versus Mike - They like you BEST! 😁
  8. Possibly due to various threads here on the Forum - a fair number of owners have replaced the original lug nuts on "older" Ollies. My 2016 was delivered with a lug socket and wrench (this wrench had a neat collapsible handle on it and has been use to move the Andersen whale tail attachment point into the correct position on more than one occasion). But, I replaced the original lug nuts several years ago and now use a "deep" 3/4 inch socket with a proper torque wrench. Bill p.s. Mike - they always liked me best anyway!😁
  9. If you really want to attend - Call Oliver first thing Monday morning at 1-888-526-3978. Good luck! Bill
  10. If Garmin only knew - even you with that Japanese fishing pole might be able to land a couple.😇
  11. I'll try to remember that the next time I'm standing in the shower ankle deep in water because I forgot to open the drain valve.🤪 Bill
  12. FYI - Garmin has released a map update for GPS devices (at least the 890 and the 2797 models). This update must be fair large in that it took about 45 minutes to download and install. Bill
  13. Thanks for letting everyone know! Relax in the knowledge that you are not the first and will not be the last to have this kind of issue. Certainly, I've been in that boat a bunch of times. Bill
  14. Where's the pic of the pup?😀 Bill
  15. THIS is a YouTube video by a fairly well respected person that covers the issues with a lithium conversion. Bill
  16. If you can get the old batteries out of the Oliver - then - you can certainly get the new lithiums back into the Oliver. One of the nice advantages to lithiums is that they weigh much less than a conventional battery of the same size. Bill
  17. Yes - kind of 🙃 Greasing the ball does "defeat" the anti-sway portion of the design a little - maybe. But - Olivers do not sway and with the chains still attached to the outside of the frame any (possible) sway would still be picked up and transmitted through the shaft that goes up to the ball anyway. If your chains happen to be attached to the middle of the frame (a couple of owners have done this), it would (obviously) take a greater amount of movement (sway) of the trailer to "activate" enough friction via that sleeve in order to produce enough heat that would cause enough expansion of the sleeve material to cause a dampening of this movement (sway). Make sense? Bill
  18. Yes - I have. Only once but it did happen. The little ball at the end of the zerk seemed to be virtually welded in place. After changing it out I took the offending zerk into the workshop and it took several "pops" with a small punch and hammer to get it loose. After that I've always used caps on zerks in order to keep "stuff" away from the operating area. Bill
  19. Once you get those little buggers cleared, working or replaced - you might want to consider "zerk caps" like THESE if you don't already have them. If the ones that are "plugged" don't respond to the "normal" grease pressure to free them then I'd use a small punch and a light tap with a hammer to get them free. Of course, I assume that you have already tried the old taking the weight off the wheel, cleaning them, etc. Bill
  20. Many use this space for shampoo and/or liquid soap. I also have a small box of Kleenex type tissue in there. Bill
  21. Is THIS the post you were looking for? Bill
  22. Another way to accomplish this disconnect of the charging circuit from the tow vehicle is to simply remove the fuse for this circuit. I know that this is available in F-150 Fords (sorry but I don't remember the exact fuse off the top of my head) and would be marginally surprised if this is not available on other similar trucks. Of course - if you tow more trailers with some that are not equipped with lithium batteries then you might have to remember to re-plug in that fuse on those occasions. Bill
  23. I just stumbled across an app that says it can be used to help diagnose issues with the Dometic air conditioner in an RV. I've not used this myself but thought that it just might help if your having issues with your Dometic AC. The app can be found HERE. Bill
  24. Lee - When you get to that "home page" simply scroll all the way to the bottom of that page and look on the right side of the screen - here you should see "Rewards Login" under the word "Company" that is in white lettering. Hope this helps. Bill p.s. Matt no longer works full time for Oliver - therefore, it may take awhile for him to get back to you. Jason might be able to help sooner.
  25. Lee - please see the post above by Matt Duncan dated July 10, 2023. That should answer most of your questions. Bill p.s. if you still have questions - simply send Jason Essary or Matt Duncan a private message (PM)
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