CRM

Been looking to replace our 14yo 9.2k Coleman with a new unit, not because it isn't working well, but because of it's age and we don't want to be left without AC or have to have it replaced while traveling. Was thinking about purchasing the Houghton 9.5k since it was also available with a heatpump but was a little apprehensive because of the always on fan issue and the need to mod the unit to shut the fan down when the compressor shuts off to keep humidity down. Thought maybe because of the low 9.5k rating it would run longer and might not have the same humidity issues as the Houghton larger units so I decided to do a test using my Coleman in both the auto mode that it has which shuts down the fan when the compressor is off, as well as the always on low fan setting which I figured should emulate the Houghton 9.5k performance fairly well. Decided to test under the worst conditions to control humidity, conditions that are very common in the areas we camp- temps in the 70's at night with high humidity. The results were pretty shocking to me. As you can see in the pic, even with our smaller 9.2k Coleman the humidity shot up almost instantly when the fan was set to low/always on. Didn't expect this drastic of a rise so quickly and now I'm back to not knowing which direction to go... Not interested in modding a brand new Houghton, and also, not interested in a Truma since I don't want to have to have the custom fiberglass work done to accommodate it, nor do I even know how it performs under these same conditions. Has anyone here installed the Atmos 4.4 yet and used it similar conditions? Looks promising since it has a de-humidification / sleep mode, but it looks like it also operates with the fan always on too. Might just have to replace with a new Coleman Mach 8 Cub Plus since it has an auto fan mode and it can use our existing thermostat though I don't know how quiet that unit is. No heatpump either, though it does have a heat strip option.. The search continues...

If you have the room, you could always bring along a 15lb propane tank and connect to your grill using an adapter hose. Less expensive and wasteful than using hose small tanks plus it could be a backup for your Oliver's tanks. Personally, I'd try and remove the regulator and add a quick connect to the grill so I could use the Oliver's quick connects.

To use a Coleman Road Trip grill you would still need to do some piping to bypass the trailers regulator. Won't work right, or at all, if you just use the adapter on the grill side and plug into the trailer quick connect.

Have you removed the regulator on the Coleman stove? It won't work correctly if you haven't.

I have a hard time believing the whole debris excuse myself. If that was truly the cause I would think they'd be replacing whole engines and not just short blocks since some "debris" would likely find it's way up to the cam bearings too.

I could be wrong, but I thought someone here said that Oliver only orders 7k hitches to prevent any mix ups.

Just saw that someone on the Oliver Trailers Owners FB group said their 2019 has a 5k coupler on it.

Nice install! If I were King these would be standard in every RV.

This has the potential to be a disaster for Toyota, even worse than the 1st gen Tundra frame recalls. I know they'll make it right no matter what it takes but I see no other option than to drop the oil pan and pull the main bearing caps and inspect the bearings. Pretty sure the motor has to be pulled on these trucks to do this too.. Agree with you on the 5.7 V8. One of the best engines ever built, but even it had it's issues (valve springs) for the first couple of years it was out. I was planning on buying a new Tundra once the kinks were worked out, but looks like I'll have to wait a little longer than expected..

I'm with you on an Oliver not needing a 13.5k unit. We have a Coleman 9.2k which controls the heat and humidity here in Florida perfectly. My only issue is the age of our unit and that it lacks a heat pump and I want to change it out before we hit the road for an extended period of time in a couple of years. Looking at the 110 version of the 48v you linked to and it seems to check all the boxes. I know the Houghton's "issue" with the fan always running but hoping with a lower BTU unit that the compressor will run longer resulting in a lower amount of humidity in the cabin as well as on the evaporator coil so it won't be the issue it is on higher BTU units. Also, I think if you run the math that you won't be happy with the run time of that 48v unit on that 100ah battery. Maybe 1.5-2 hours?

Paid 155.00 last March through Wally World and quote today is 190.00.. Almost 22% increase in just over a year...

I always start with a very small bit, then a counter sink bit until the gel coat removed is slightly larger than the final hole, then finish with the final size drill bit. This has worked every time for me- so far...

Looks like there are several vibration dampers on that unit. Truma Aventa Compressor Vibration Dampers Kit

I have no idea of how the Truma is constructed, but I've seen the same happen on other brands when the rubber isolation mounts between the compressor and the base of the unit go bad or are missing. When that happens all the compressor vibration travels straight through to the camper. Edit: Also, I've seen where the compressor jumps up off the mounts after hitting a large pothole or rough stretch of road. Definitely not the blower motor if the sound only comes and goes with the compressor engaging.

You have a very good memory! Here it is on the original brochure. This one is definitely a 22' since the bumper is close to the hull.

Yes, that is ours. I have the original receipt and it was sold in August 2009. It had blue/grey graphics when we bought it but I removed them since they were deteriorating so badly. Replaced the Front and side "Oliver" decals with original colors, though.

Thanks for the info! One thing that confuses me is that mine was built in 08-09, and titled as a 2010, but is also the 23.5 extended version. Were there two 22' models built before mine, and if Jim Oliver kept one, what happened to the other?

I think I see where the difference in cross members count may be. I have the original brochure for the E2's that came out before the shutdown and they show the rear bumper almost flush with the back of the hull. Maybe 2 or 3 extra cross members added when they extended the bumper and storage area out further? The first one or two E2's that that Oliver's kept must have been built as shown in the brochure and then the design was changed for the one I currently own since my dimensions match the current dimensions.

My 2010 has 6 cross members from the rear axle back. Do later models really have 12 of them?

Last time I used WD-40 for anything it was for drying out the distributor cap in my 1971 Dodge Challenger. I guess I could use it to clean and de-grease my bicycle chains but I think mineral spirits does a better job and is a whole lot cheaper.

I was only responding to the section of your post where you said "For those owners that either already have or have switched to the 5200 pound Nev-R-Lube axles you would now effectively have a GVWR of 10,400 pounds upon the installation of these heavier springs." And I responded- "In this scenario, I think the wheels and/or tires would limit most of us below that effective GVWR. Mine wheels are stamped with a 1950# rating." People should make sure that they check their wheel and tire combo if they plan on loading over the factory limits with the the upgraded springs and 5200# axles. Legally, it shouldn't be done anyway, but that's a whole other can of worms!

In this scenario, I think the wheels and/or tires would limit most of us below that effective GVWR. Mine wheels are stamped with a 1950# rating.

We have sprayed on "lizard skin" insulation and none of that aluminum bubble wrap in our Ollie... so it's off to the TV when the lightning gets crazy!

I'm with ya.. and one less motor is one less thing to go wrong. If using a manual awning ever becomes too taxing for me I probably shouldn't be out camping any more..

That's exactly the way you should be doing it, especially if working alone. Seems like you're not getting anywhere sometimes, but it is still more efficient doing each step to completion.