CRM

Here's the one I think you're looking for. I've purchased through them before and they ship fast. And if you just need a replacement part and not the whole handle I'm sure they can help you with that too. 10777 Elbow Sprayer Handle with On/Off Valve EDIT- Here's the Aerator if that's all you need. 10459 Replacement Aerator

Talk about hitting the jackpot!

Just need to get my Ollie back first... right now my brother is using it as temporary housing. Loves it so much he's planning on buying one himself.

Yep, the exterior look is awesome, then it all goes downhill from there. I don't blame Oliver, I'm sure these changes to the windows were the last thing that they wanted to do...

Nice! Looking forward to installing a Cielo Breez Max along with the Greenland Turbro unit that I'll be installing soon. Thank you for making us all aware of this thermostat and it's capabilities!

With everything able to run on electric now, who's going to be the first one to remove the propane tanks and pack the doghouse with lithium batteries? 😄

Looks like you'll have to pull the bottom two bins out for that. Would have been nice if they had designed it to where there was a center support between each so you could pull one out and leave the other.

Our 2010 has the back splash facing towards the rear and I like that it helps protect the curbside bed from splatter. Maybe they were giving owners the option in the early models too?

Right now there's 10% the Pioneer for their labor day sale. Code- LABORDAY25 1465.00 before tax.

Pretty sure Steve bought the very first LE2 after the hiatus with the four units between our hull 45 and his hull 50 all being LE's.

Yes, it's technically a 2010, though it was originally sold in August of 2009. It was the first LE2 sold as well as the last unit sold before the hiatus. Pretty sure it's the only one titled as a 2010, too.

Yeah, makes total sense if it happens right after stopping while towing. I was under the impression that the starting issue was when it sat while connected

Strange that it only happened while connected to the trailer...

If you're on Facebook you might want to post it in the "Oliver travel trailers for sale" group too.

Totally agree and apologize for my part in adding to any of that "tone"... Tried to help, as others had, (and definitely for longer than I should have), but outwardly blaming Oliver and the prior owner for the problem pushed me over the edge. Would be nice if the moderators could delete all associated threads as there's absolutely nothing to be gained by spending time reading them.

I'm glad it worked for you, though replacing all the brake wiring instead of finding and repairing the fault is not "common sense". That's like a mechanic replacing an engine because it doesn't run. Was it "common sense" when you replaced the axle wiring knowing that it couldn't be your problem since your brakes worked when the disconnected switch was pulled? Glad your happy though, and more importantly, traveling with brakes now! Over and out....

Glad you finally got your brakes working, but you can't know for sure that this was an issue from the factory. You bypassed all the original wiring without doing any actual testing/troubleshooting in a logical manner. The problem was most likely a bad connection or cut wire somewhere, which is MUCH more likely than Oliver sending your trailer out the door with inoperative brakes.

Not sure it would cause this or not, but is it possible you have one of those "fridge defenders" installed? Maybe it's holding some voltage if so? Have you tried putting a test light between the connectors to bleed off any voltage? Edit- better yet, maybe hook your fans to them to see if they bleed it off?

I think cost would be the biggest issue. You could probably buy 10 or more sets of bearings for the price of one replacement hub kit.

Excellent job, thanks! I'm not worried at all now with swapping over to the Nev-R-Lube axles in the future. In a pinch, I also wouldn't worry about re-using the snap rings, washer, or even the nut if I had to. I'd just pinch the nut slightly on the slotted end with a pair of vise grips and be on my way. Nice to see Dexter using high quality bearings in there from the factory, too.

And if this doesn't work, there's one more thing you can try before I would recommend calling in a mobile mechanic to diagnose it for you- disconnect your blue wire from the 7 pin connector and run a new temporary one to the load (brake) side of the emergency disconnect switch. You know the wiring from the disconnect switch is good since your brakes work when the pin is pulled. If the brakes then work you know the problem is between the 7pin and where the blue wire is spliced to the disconnect switch wire.

The ball and emergency chains are not suitable grounds for an electronic braking system. Might be enough to operate LED taillights but then fail to provide a good enough ground with the amperage required to operate the brakes. Could be the reason why your controller recognizes the trailer when you first plug it in and then doesn't anymore once you manually activate the brakes at the controller?

The fuse for the blue wire is in your tow vehicle. Likely a auto reset breaker powering your brake controller. Have you tried running a ground wire from the frame of your tow vehicle to the trailer frame as I suggested? This will tell you if it's a ground issue or not without digging in to your wiring looking for an issue that might not even exist.

Put a test light between the ground and Aux on the trailer connector. You should get no light, and if you do, the Aux wire is incorrectly connected to the battery

Since it only happens while towing, the first thing I would check is to make sure that the charge/aux wire isn't connected to the trailer batteries. I see you have the lithium platinum package so it shouldn't be, but I would check that first anyway to confirm.