CRM

Nice job! Adding dual fans was a game changer for us. Where we're currently camping it's 90+ outside and our packed fridge is staying in the mid 30's on AC without any problem. It would sometimes get into the danger zone before the addition of fans.

The first thing I would do is to plug the MW into a standard 110 outlet using a GFCI extension cord like This one. If it doesn't trip when you open the door then your GFCI outlet on your Ollie is most likely going bad, and if it does trip, then the MW itself is the issue.

Thanks for the details. I just looked at mine and the outside of the hangers are flush with the subframe so I assume I'll be OK if I ever need to change my axles. There I go "assuming" things again.. 🤣

That's a question for the manufacturer of the AC unit. Many make optional compressor blankets for their units to reduce the sound level when needed and since the compressor is cooled via the refrigerant it usually isn't a problem to run one. A problem can occur though if it affects the flow of air through the condenser coils.

It came from the factory with the 5200lb axles, but I'm not sure whether the EZ-Flex system did too or if it was installed afterwards. I'm assuming that I would be able to upgrade to the newer axles without issue, but I've been burned by assuming before!

Yeah, I'd like to know the details too. Already have the 5200lb axles and EZ-Flex but don't want to run into any surprises down the road if I have to change the axles out for any reason.

What was different about the new axles that caused them not to be compatible with your Ollie?

Best bang for the buck upgrade we've done yet.

My order arrived yesterday and it *did* have the LED light included. Was a little worried with so many receiving theirs without one when buying though Amazon and Ebay.

Nothing better than riding and enjoying nature without the worries of automobile traffic. I compete in 12/24 hour races and recently started chasing records so a minimum of 10k per year is pretty much necessary for me to perform well. Was lucky enough to set a cross Florida record back in May, and still paying a price for it so mileage a little lower since then.. 😂

What Houghton really should be doing is working on a new control board for these units. One with Dip switches to be able to select whether the fan runs or not with the compressor and the ability to use a standard wall mount thermostat. One for compressor run time would be a bonus, though that problem might solve itself with a standard thermostat.

For anyone interested in purchasing one, Home Depot has the Maxxfan with LED on sale for $73 at the moment. MaxxFan Dome Plus with 12-Volt Fan and LED Light

If I'm following correctly, the compressor would only run for 3 min at a time yesterday but ran for 12:30 straight today? I wonder why? Also, may be perfectly normal for this unit, but a temperature differential between cabin temp and supply air over over 30 degrees seems too high to me. If the supply air is at 40 degrees the actual evaporator temp is most likely very close to freezing the condensate on the fins.

My wife recently contacted KTT to inquire about purchasing mattresses and the owner of the company told her that they no longer sell custom mattresses for Oliver's.

Welcome to the forum! My wife and I are big fans of rails-to-trails riding too. I ride 10-12k miles per year and the vast majority is done on rails-to-trails and MUP trails.

In homes and commercial buildings you're dealing a much higher ratio of evaporator surface area to conditioned space so humidity rise will be much smaller, but it will still be there whenever you blow air over evaporator coils with condensation on them. And I'm not doubting your findings under your test conditions, I just know when I tested running the fan after shutdown here in Florida with +90% outside RH that the humidity began to rise immediately. I do see how skipping that first 52 seconds and then running the fan occasionally to sample the air over the thermistor might keep from having to relocate it and not release as much humidity into the cabin, though..

Running the blower for 52 seconds right after shut down would defeat the purpose, I think... In my expedience, humidity starts rising immediately after the compressor shuts down if the fan continues to run. I wouldn't be worrying about a slight improvement in efficiency if I were trying to keep the humidity as low as possible.

The EPA approved R-32 for use in window units back in 2015. It's also a component of R-410A which is just a 50-50 mix of R-32 and R-125 so we all already have some R-32 in our Ollies.

Yep. if you know this is the unit you want, then no sense waiting.

From what I've been told, ALL new air conditioner and refrigeration units must be R32 starting Jan 1st 2025. Probably going to see some good deals on 410a units before then, but I'm waiting until next year to purchase a new AC unit for our Ollie.

Based on your location, you may want to research the watts required while cooling under "desert" conditions on any of the units you are considering. The Coleman 9.2k I'm considering uses almost 25% more watts under desert conditions than it does in "standard" conditions- 1150 watts vs 1410. Not sure if this large difference in watts is typical or something specific to this unit itself...

All things being equal, when it comes to controlling humidity, higher CFM is not your friend- especially in the small area of an LE2. The air does not stay in contact with the evaporator core as long and less moisture is removed from the air than it is at a lower CFM. To make matters worse, the higher CFM of the 13.5k coupled with the higher BTU's will knock the temp down faster resulting in shorter run times reducing the amount of humidity removed even more.

So far, the hottest we've camped in is 101 with 90% humidity in full sun. There's got to be a breaking point, and I hope to never be camping somewhere to find it!

In my expedience, 9.2k has been more than enough. Haven't been at a high altitude or in temps much over 100 degrees with our LE2 yet but I don't see how it wouldn't be enough. If not, either the BTU's are overrated or the LE2 isn't as insulated as we think it is. A 13.5k or 15k unit might cool the inside down faster but they're certainly overkill under the typical conditions we camp under.

I figured the dehumidifier mode was just a low cool mode. Totally fine with that as long as it can hold a temp in the low 70's with low humidity under the same conditions I tested in. I have my doubts now if the fan is always running but if the system has a way of throttling down the BTU's in that mode, then maybe?