CRM

I think the noise level is the one thing they need to focus on, maybe a variable speed fan motor instead of 3 speeds too. Not as loud as the Dometic, but not as quiet as the others you have mentioned. They get that sorted out and I don't see any reason to ever go with a single speed compressor unit again. They use half or less wattage (no soft start needed) and can control humidity much better which are the two biggies for me. I doubt it will be long before all the big names make the move to inverter tech and we'll see even more advancements in RV AC units.

Without a test lamp, one other thing you can try while connected to the tow vehicle is to run a wire from the frame of the truck to the frame of the trailer and see if you now have brakes. This will tell you if you have a problem in the white ground wire somewhere. Just make sure you get a very good connection on both sides, like under a bolt.

Do you own a 12v test lamp? If you do, pull the disconnect switch (verify that brakes are working) and then test between the blue and white wires at the trailer connector. If test light lights then both the blue power wire to the brakes and the white wire to ground have connectivity and your problem is on the vehicle side. No light? Then test between blue wire and trailer frame. If it lights then there is an issue on the white wire between the trailer connector and trailer ground. Still no light? Your problem is on the blue wire somewhere between the connector and where it is spliced to the disconnect switch wire.

This change isn't costing everyone money... Those who are using Starlink for alarm monitoring of second homes are making out on this deal. Instead of paying $50 per month for low level roam they can just pause it and pay $5 instead.

Look at the bright side, it's like having nearly free DSL. 🤣

I think it's well worth the $5 per month just for the peace of mind of having emergency connectivity if needed.

Here are the brochure spec sheets for them.

I think it would like much nicer if the grey was on the bottom and of a much lighter shade.

Yes, will definitely be using the app/remote, just like having the display available for a quick look at the temp. I'm also known to lose remotes and phones so it's good to have a backup too...

I don't think I'll be buying anything under the "Max" version myself. I like to be able to see Temp/Humidity and make adjustments without having to go to my phone.

Have two 30lb tanks and never even bother to weigh them. Run one tank until it's empty , switch to the full one, and then just plan on filling the empty one as soon as I can.

Owners manual says it has low, med, hi, and auto.

The convertor converts your onboard 12v DC to 57v DC so no AC power needed at all.

We went with the Gen3 for a couple of reasons- you can switch between residential and roaming plans with it, and the residential plan is less expensive with higher bandwidth. As of now you can't do that with the mini. The Gen3 is supposed to have better performance though I can't give an opinion on that since I've never had a mini to compare it to. Also, you can run the Gen3 off of 12v DC with a convertor though it will still use about 20-30 watts more than the mini does. When it comes to the residential vs roaming, *so far* we've been lucky and haven't had to switch to a roaming plan when we hit the road. We just change the service address from our home address to the campsite and it works within minutes. You can do this an unlimited amount of times but must be prepared to be denied access if the area you are in is not allowing any new residential connections. If this ever happens we would just change to a roaming plan until we got back home.

I think the highest watts draw the engineer in the Youtube video was able to see at max power was around 1100. Still far less than any of the single speed compressor units of comparable size. In our small insulated spaces I'm guessing we would be consuming around 500-700 most of the time once setpoint is met.

I suspect that's where it's really going to shine, especially in controlling humidity once set temp is reached.

Thanks for correcting me. In his pic it looked like it was in the #4 fuse position to me.

According to the label on the fuse box door it's for the furnace. If you want to check your blue wire and white wire for continuity, just put a 12v test light between the blue and white wire connectors at the 7 pin and then activate your breakaway switch. According to the schematic, that should power the blue wire and the white wire should complete the circuit to ground to light the test light.

If you zoom in on the bearing included in this kit you'll see that they are NTN brand made in Japan. If that's what comes in the axles from the factory I'd probably leave them in and run with them instead of swapping them out ASAP with Timken's like I was originally thinking. I'd still carry a new set(s) and the tools to change them though...

Nev-R-Adjust is the brake system not the bearings.

Tempting... but I think I'm going to try and hold out for a sale on the Pioneer branded unit. I like the 3 year vs 1 year warranty.

Yep, which is why it behooves all RV owners to own a multimeter and a test light (and to learn how to use them) so they are able to diagnose simple electrical issues like this quickly themselves.

I've seen LED trailer lights work correctly getting their ground through just the hitch coupling alone but then the trailer brakes work intermittently or not at all. Happened to me a few years back with my boat trailer. Still think a missing ground is at the bottom of the list in this situation though... If it were mine, I'd hit both connectors with some DeoxIT before I even broke out the multimeter.

That trailer ground works for the breakaway switch since the battery in the trailer powers it, but to complete the brake circuit from the truck you must have a good ground from the truck to the trailer too

Since your brakes work when you pulled your disconnect I'm guessing it's likely a simple connection issue on the blue wire or ground. Less likely the ground wire if your running lights/turn signals and brake lights are working.