CRM

Yes, I applied a new front logo too. If I can't find a pic I'll take one tomorrow. There's been a change of plan and it looks like I be able to install my new Turbro unit a little early!

@jd1923- Looks like you have the old style "Legacy Elite" graphic like mine had. To keep things original, I tried to get that one when I ordered my decals but they said that they were no longer available. Kind of glad they weren't since the newer style is much nicer, IMHO...

There are pics of the new models on the Oliver FB page and the ones I saw do have the front Oliver logo. Can tell they're the new models since they have the new tilt out windows.

Just want to clarify, when I said I got a "full set" I was only talking about the front Oliver logo and the side "Oliver Legacy Elite II" decals. I had already removed my side stripes and I like the look better without them.

Strange... I was able to buy a full set of decals a couple of years ago.

With all of the humidity issues Houghton owners have had I would think someone would have tried the Cielo workaround with one of those units by now. Anyone?

What's needed is a list of all AC units that are compatible with the Cielo. Might help entice those having humidity issues to give it a try. We know it works with the Atmos 4.4, and the Turbro/Pioneer units, but has anyone else tried using one with any of the other brands/models? I wonder if Cielo has a compatibility list?

Grainger has these in several sizes. Quick Release Pin: T-Handle Edit- Lot's of options on Amazon too. Quick Release Pin T Handle Lock Pins

I have the same basic setup, though hardwired inside. One of the things it can't test for is a bootleg neutral/ground at the pedestal which is a wiring fault that can cause a lot of troubles if you have a fault inside the camper. Even worse is if you have a bootleg ground AND reverse polarity at the pedestal. This wiring fault will energize anything metal in the camper that is internally grounded with 120v and it can't be picked up by any EMS or three light testers. Using a non-contact voltage tester on the frame is the only easy way (other than getting shocked) that you would know...

It was an easy sell, too. Once my wife found out that it was a heat pump, and that we wouldn't have to run the noisy propane furnace anymore, it was a done deal!

Got one on the way, and it was free shipping too!. Only bad part is I now have to wait until I get my Ollie back over Thanksgiving to install it.

Now it's just getting too hard not to buy one. I think I'm going to be extra nice to the wife today! Obviously the tariffs haven't affected the pricing on these. I wonder if they shipped a large amount prior to them hitting and now they're trying to liquidate them? Or maybe a new model getting ready to be released?

Under the right conditions, even the metal outside of appliances inside the camper could become energized. This could happen even if plugged into a GFCI outlet since GFCI's don't monitor for voltage on the ground.

Here's a more detailed explanation courtesy of AI- Bonding the ground and neutral together at an RV pedestal creates a secondary neutral-ground bonding point, which violates the National Electrical Code (NEC) and RVIA building codes that require only one bonding point in a distributed electrical system. This single, primary bonding point must be located at the main service panel, such as the campground's incoming service panel. When the ground and neutral are bonded at the pedestal, it establishes an additional connection between the neutral and ground conductors, which can lead to several hazardous conditions. If the neutral conductor fails (e.g., due to a loose connection, corrosion, or damage), the current from the load will seek an alternative return path. With a secondary bonding point at the pedestal, this current can flow through the grounding conductors, including the equipment grounding conductor (EGC) and the RV chassis. This causes the safety ground, which should normally carry no current under normal conditions, to become energized and carry the full load current. This condition is dangerous because it can result in a "hot skin" on the RV, meaning the metal frame and any connected appliances become energized at 120 volts. If the ground conductor also fails in this scenario, the risk of electric shock increases significantly. A person touching the RV while standing on the ground could receive a severe or fatal shock due to the energized chassis. Furthermore, this secondary bonding can cause ground loop currents, which may induce hum or buzz in audio systems and can trip GFCI outlets even with minimal load current. In summary, bonding the ground and neutral at an RV pedestal creates a dangerous condition by allowing fault current to flow through the safety ground, potentially energizing the RV chassis and creating a serious shock hazard. This is why the bonding must be performed only at the main service panel and not at the pedestal or within the RV itself.

If the ground is bonded to neutral at the pedestal, instead of a separate direct run back to main panel ground as it should be, the ground conductor will become the neutral if the neutral connection is lost inside the trailer.

Depends on the wiring fault, but it could become energized under the right conditions.

A bootleg ground at the pedestal with an internal fault in the RV could do it. Not sure if the EMS would even see this as a fault.

Spoke with a friend today who is very knowledgeable on the subject and he said that none of the EMS products on the market right now satisfy the requirements of the upcoming code for Grounding Monitor Interrupter's in RV's. He said while they might cut power when a ground is missing they will not protect in other rare scenario's where power is on the ground wire.

Have you tried having someone physically pull out on the awning while you crank it? I Have a Fiamma also but when I had alignment issues it would not come out until I pulled out on it while cranking. Something might have been damaged or knocked out of adjustment when the wind got hold of it.

Our Hull 45 was without any electrical protection also so I installed a hard wired Hughes Power Watchdog as well as their Autoformer voltage booster. Looking to upgrade to their new "Watchdog Powercenter" once it's back in stock. It combines the Autoformer voltage booster and Watchdog protection into one unit to protect from low voltage, surges, and wiring issues. Pricey, but worth it, IMHO... Watchdog Powercenter

No, they can retroactively enforce this. Though anyone who doesn't have this sort of protection is crazy not to have it added to their RV. And have it hard wired inside the RV... If you rely on pedestal protection you're not protected from an open ground if the power cord or it's connections are damaged beyond it.

A Watchdog with EPO will shut off the power if the ground is missing, Not sure about the Progressive units that come in Oliver's, though.. Edit- according to AI the Progressive EMS does cut off power when the ground is missing. Would still check the owners manual to be sure.

Nice! Might have to jump on this even though I won't get my Ollie back until after Thanksgiving.

Same here. Their faucets are crazy expensive but replacement parts are more than reasonable..

Just looked at the receipt for my last order and they charged me $7 for shipping.