CRM

To make sure that if the generator is connected to a residential service that will always be code complainant. You can't have more than one neutral/ground bond in a system, and since a residential main panel is already bonded you would be violating code and creating a possible hazardous condition. Edit- I shouldn't have said "always be code compliant" since there are ways to connect a generator to a residential system that will violate code even if you use a floating neutral generator.

Yes, using a bonding plug makes it safer by providing a low resistance path back to the generator to trip the breaker in the generator if a short to the metal case of an appliance inside the RV or the generator itself occurs. When it comes to the ground rod system in a residential system, it is there for voltage stabilization and surge dissipation, not to trip breakers. In fact, if the neutral and grounding electrode system are not bonded in the service panel you could connect a hot conductor straight to the ground rod and it will not trip the breaker. You need the bonding in the panel to provide a path back to the transformer for that to happen. You get that path when the ground and neutral are bonded in the service panel, completing the circuit back to the utility transformer's neutral point.

Never at an outlet. This is known as a "bootleg ground" and can cause dangerous situations.

I used this method to adjust mine and it worked perfectly. Really like this model awning for its simplicity and ruggedness in windy conditions. It is a good idea to keep a spare gearbox for it on hand, though.. Mine last one went bad and took almost 2 weeks to source another. Nice job on the install!

What a bunch of clowns!

Since you had the latch pinned, I would assume that the issue was caused by the wire part that connected from the latch to the collar. I don't see how that collar can slide back allowing the coupler to open without some type of deformation to, or disconnection of, that wire. Let us know what Bulldog tells you.

Wow, glad you and your Ollie are OK! I can't even visualize how this can happen if the latch is locked/pinned unless the wire part that attaches from the latch to the collar is bent or broken. Do you have any pics from the topside?

Lol, no matter how hard I try, the only way my brain sees it is half the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the leaf pack. Like I said, I might be looking at it wrong... edit- Just drew it out and now it makes sense. Time to go to bed!

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but since the axle is in the center of the tube, shouldn't it only raise the Oliver by half the diameter of the axle tube plus the height of the leaf pack?

I used the stainless steel version of these when I added LED strip lights under my awning a few years ago. Love them.. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9314-curbside-led-strip-lighting/?_rid=6801

Well, I had a feeling this was coming... I hope it backfires on them in the worst possible way. Will Prowse Sued by Dragonfly Energy Over Alleged False and Misleading Claims About Battle Born Batteries

Thanks! Our 2010 did not come with a boondock connection and I'm going to have to build one of these before we start our big adventures.

The new Apex X23 model comes with a Houghton 48 volt AC / heat pump..

I use one of these to make quick work of finding wires- Tone generator and wand.

Probably talking about this place- Suncoast Designers. Haven't used them myself, but I have heard good things about them. They provide a lifetime guarantee to the original owner too.

I have a 2020 with the V8 and have never had any problems with power or going down grades. I do all my towing in "S" and "Tow Haul" modes which makes a big difference, as does having the larger drums with the 5.2k axles. Getting the trailer controller dialed in correctly makes a big difference, too... When it comes to braking, you don't have the larger margin of safety that 3/4 ton trucks do so everything has to be dialed in. I'm with you on a diesel option and would buy one the second it hit the market. Not a fan of *any* of the modern big 3 diesel options and wouldn't even consider one.

Prior to the shutdown, Oliver was planning something similar to this. The stripped down model was even supposed to have a steel frame, though the aluminum frame was an option. Attached is the brochure for it, along with the options list. sport_22(1).pdf

I don't see any reason as to why most companies continue to manufacture standard single speed compressor AC units when inverter tech is so freely available. The prices are comparable and the power requirements are 50% or less. Makes no sense to me...

Looks that way from what I can tell, and those 48V Houghton's on paper don't look very efficient either. I think the 120v inverter units that we each have would use less power even after the loss of running through an inverter.

I had high hopes that the Chill Cube would do a better job than most with temp control since it had the "follow me" thermostat feature built into the remote. The crazy low wattage draw of these invertor compressor units makes it a lot easier to put up with minor issues like this though!

Me too... I'm also interested in the price of that solar awning as well.

I read somewhere recently that they're not using *any* Truma products in the new models.

Some things I was able to pull from a blurry pic of the brochure- Alcan springs are standard, the 48v battery is 100ah, and it seems only the AC is 48v with everything else being 12v. One really interesting option is a 960 watt solar awning. Would love to have that!

Looking at their new Instagram posts, it certainly looks like they're marketing it as an off road trailer. "Most trailers stop where the road does. Not this one- Built for the Road That Ends."

Love the new windows and hope they're available as upgrades some time in the future, though I'm not a real fan of the blackout treatment. Very interested in learning more about the electrical system, battery capacity as well as what looks to be a beefed up suspension.