CRM

I *think* the Pioneer/Greenland/others? show the max watts of the unit running at full capacity which in our small insulated spaces probably won't be very often. I also think that in a few years nearly every new AC unit will have invertor tech and those manufacturers who don't employ it will quickly be left behind.

Yep, and I've triple checked it. Hull 45 was the last trailer sold prior to the shutdown and was built with leftover 5200lb axles used on the LE1's. There aren't any of those on the list but I'd bet all of those early models have the same measurements.

The person that I know that changed his took the part number off the bearing and had Summit cross reference it. That's the same route I'd take if I were going to change them out. That's also who told him the Dexter bearing cross referenced to some passenger cars.

If adjustments didn't fix it the only other thing I can think of is a vacuum leak and closing the choke could be compensating for it at idle. Could also just be a bad carb, but two in a row doing the same thing?

Did you try pulling the idle jet out and cleaning it with a small wire and carb cleaner? Edit to add link to video. Helped a friend with this and it worked out great. Simple Fix for a Surging Honda Generator

I wonder if it would be possible for them to relocate the center alignment hole on the spring 1/4 inch on each side to make up the difference?

I have the EZ lube 5200 axles but never use the EZ lube feature. I could be wrong, but I don't think they're any different than the old school axles other that the grease fitting on the end the drilled section to allow the grease to flow to the bearings. If I were forced to use a Nev-R-Lube axle I would pull the factory bearings from the get-go and replace them with high quality Timken bearings. The bearings used the Nev-R-Lube hubs are the same used in some production cars and I would expect them to go at least 80-100k without any issues. Could be wrong there too though since a loaded LE2 weighs a lot more than production cars do...

Rode my bike for a long stretch of that road a few years back during the Trans America Bike Race. Beautiful views and fairly light traffic.

I'll be picking one up for sure as soon as I see the price drop a little. I really should have picked one up when they were in the $1,200 dollar range based on the inverter technology alone... One thing for certain, the second I buy one another even more efficient one will hit the market!

I think it is purposely designed to run continuously the majority of the time and to keep a steady temp / humidity level which is exactly what I've been looking for. The mostly steady state running at a MUCH lower watts *should* equate to less stress on the unit as compared to the typical non-invertor AC's frequent start/stop of the compressor and the surge amps encountered each time. Being fairly new there's really no way to know the reliability yet for sure, but a 3 year warranty makes the gamble worth it to me. Personally, I also don't worry about the unit testing a little low on BTU's at max since I'm running a Coleman Mach 9600 BTU unit that has no problem keeping our LE2 cool and humidity low. It also tested higher than the Dometic that he replaced.

Your watt numbers closely match those seen in this test of the Turbro unit (which I assume is the same as the Pioneer) when it is throttled down into the 8000 BTU range. It has a crazy good EER of 18 at that BTU range and I bet it will run at that lower level in an LE2 in most situations once set temperature is met. They only recorded a max watt draw of 1100 watts while running at full capacity which is also a crazy good number. Thanks for sharing this info... I'm just waiting and hoping for a sale on one now.

I would like to see this too. The specs for that unit call for cooling input power of 850 ~ 1500W so I'm guessing the compressor was operating at the lower end of it's capacity with the low watts he was seeing. Don't see how it's possible to get 13500 BTU's from 500-700 watts but I'd love to be wrong on that! The EER rating would need to be the the 20 range for that low of a watt draw.

Wow, that's a pretty low draw and I'm now leaning even harder towards purchasing one of these myself. If you ever get the chance to run it on a lower temp night (in the 70's or so with humidity on the high side) I'd love to know how it manages controlling the humidity. I'm hoping the invertor compressor will able to throttle down low enough to continue running and remove humidity without cycling the compressor on and off.

Sadly, most of the major interstates here in Florida have had tolled sections on them for decades. We also have more miles of toll roads than any other state.... On the plus side, our monthly E-ZPass bill has forced me to drastically cut back on my beer consumption. Thanks Florida!

Well, you're definitely going to need a inch pounds torque wrench, and you can probably get the torque specs off the breaker installation or spec sheet.

One more for you- Toyota, Tundra, TRD Off Road, 2020, 4X4, 5.7, 4.30 axle, Towing Package with 38 gallon tank, LE2, Hull 45

Yep, I have a 2020 Tundra with 4.30 gears and it pulls the LE2 without any problems at all. It does share the same issue that most Tundra's have which is low payload, but we travel light and pack most things inside of the camper anyway.

Yeah, 4.7 didn't come in that year. Probably the best engine Toyota ever made, though... just a little short on ponies.

Well, I certainly wouldn't leave it in long enough to get stiff. Felt tighter and buckled slightly after it was installed and warmed back up, so I'm glad I did it.

I'm with you... as long as they are DIY, made of glass and open far enough to make me happy. My windows are already getting "the fog" and I'd rather put the money to repair them towards these new windows if the satisfy my needs.

I think you meant "cooling".. but believe me I think it makes a difference. I put my in the freezer and then forced (compressed) it in as hard as I could and now it's fits just about perfect. Pretty sure I'd have at least a small gap if I hadn't done it this way.

I recommend buying them in black. They don't get moldy, well maybe they do but at least it doesn't show... I also recommend putting them in the freezer a little while to shrink them and then fit them in as tightly as you can when you install them. I used this method a while back and no stains or shrink gaps yet.

They definitely look identical, but what is interesting is that the Pioneer has a 3 year warranty while the Turbro only has 1.

So far the Rhino has been working fine, but I don't have a ton of miles on it. I'll order these today. Thanks!

The receiver used in the video is from my 02 Tundra that I only use to tow my Hobie kayak, though the play is identical in our Sequoia and 2020 Tundra both which have heavier duty factory receivers. 2020 Tundra in the shop, and wife gone with the Sequoia... Also, same exact hitch, just had it in upside down making the video. Edit to add video from Sequoia receiver. new.mp4