CRM

Yes, mine is titled as a 2010 with a production date of August 2009.

I figured that you would know the story behind it! Another cool find on that same page are pics of Jim Oliver's first LE2. Was surprised to see that it had 4 leaf springs, at least at that point... http://oliver.hewus.com/Trailer/Other_Trailers/The_first_22_foot_Oliver

Yeah, definitely not considering one behind the rear axle, though I think I could get away with one in front of the front axle where it would be close to the same level as the bottom of the axle itself. It's pretty obvious this LE was raised a little higher than factory and probably doesn't have the same clearance issues a rear mounted box could have on ours. .

I've been searching for an under chassis storage solution in Google image search and came up on this webpage. Does anyone know the source for these boxes? Probably custom made, but I would love to know by who... I think one mounted in front of the front axle on each side would be perfect. I'm guessing @ScubaRx knows the story behind these... Under Trailer Storage

That's why (IMHO) it's best to install the EPO/EMS right before your breaker box. If not, you can have a wiring issue between the pedestal and the breakers causing a voltage drop that won't be seen by the EPO if installed at the pedestal.

Nope, though I do think they might be the heavier duty 4 leaf Dexter's, so maybe they've been changed before?

One issue with installing an EMS/EPO at the pedestal is that you're not picking up the voltage drop between the pedestal and the equipment/appliances in your TT. Might not be an issue, but also might be... I like a sacrificial surge protector at the pedestal and then an autoformer, and then an EMS/EPO unit before the breaker box. Maybe overkill, but I like overkill when it comes to electricity.

Mike has lots of great info and advice on RV electric, but he's WAY off when it comes to the Hughes Autoformer. Been waiting for his "Part 4" testing results for a while but now he says he bound by an NDA by the NEC and can't reveal them. I'm glad I took the advice of Hughes electrical engineers (which Mike is not. BTW), as well as from a friend of mine who is also an electrical engineer before waiting for his final results.

Except in his trailer it will have an effect since he's running a Hughes Autoformer inside.

Personally, I would definitely put a high quality surge protector at the power pole to check for power, correct wiring, and to take any surge hits first instead of the Autoformer's surge module taking them. You could then put the Hughes Watchdog EPO that @John Dorrer recommends after the Autoformer for another layer of protection if desired. I don't think I would bother with that though if you already have the factory Progressive EMS installed, which is something mine did not come with.

If the problem goes away during the day you could be seeing the rise in humidity at night due to shorter compressor run times when it's cooler out, especially if the fan is always running. That would make some sense of your readings since the cabin humidity might go up faster than the underneath where your bay sensor is. And if the cabin sensor is directly catching the air from the AC when the fan is on but the compressor is off you can read even higher.

But was the outside humidity lower before the install? Maybe not apples to apples?

Unless the Nova Kool was draining into the cabin I don't see how it could be adding humidity into the cabin. I also don't see how opening the vents would help when it's humid outside since it would just give the outside humidity an easier path into the cabin. I think what I would try is swapping that cabin sensor with the bay sensor to confirm that it's reading correctly. I would also make sure that there aren't any water leaks nearby that could be making that cabin sensor read higher than the surrounding area actually is..

Something that doesn't make sense to me is that your Bay and WH sensors are reading lower humidity than your cabin sensor is. You would think they would be reading higher than cabin since they are in a less conditioned space than the cabin is- especially when you say that it's high humidity outside. Maybe I'm missing something?

The Hughes Watchdog EPO is a great unit. One thing to consider if you're also using a Hughes Autoformer is that the EPO unit should be installed downstream of the Autoformer. If not, when voltage drops to 104 volts the EPO will cut off power completely and and the Autoformer won't be able to do it's job of boosting voltage 10% and keeping it at a safe level. Ask me how I know!😄

That's the way to do it. And when you're looking to purchase a surge protector there are two things you should be must concerned with- the "joules" rating which is how much energy it can absorb before failure (the higher the number the better) and how easy it is to replace the surge unit when it is all used up and fails. Some are user replaceable, some need to be sent back to the manufacturer, and some are throw away.

Early Gen2 body style.. even better!

Money no object? I'd contract with Toyota to build me a one ton diesel V8 truck in 4WD. 🤣

Totally agree. We recently converted to a twin and absolutely love it. Feels like a completely different camper and is much more "livable" now.

Those work great to verify a hot leg is live, but it seems like he has that already out to the outlets according to his circuit tester. Someone is going to have to use a multimeter and check voltage from the hot leg to the neutral at each connection point between the EMS to wherever the problem is. My guess is a bad neutral connection somewhere or a bad EMS itself.

Since the EMS shows everything is fine, and all 120 outlets and appliances are down, the problem is more than likely between the EMS and the circuit panel or in the panel itself. Get someone over who is able to troubleshoot electrical and I'm sure they'll be able to find the problem fairly quick.

But wouldn't the EMS be showing an error if that were the case? Sounds like he has a wiring or component issue beyond the EMS or a bad GFCI (but why no AC at the same time?). Really needs someone with electrical knowledge to take a look. Should be fairly easy problem to track down with a multimeter. Edit- One thing I wouldn't rely on is a plugin circuit tester when testing a GFCI circuit. When GFCI's go bad you can get inaccurate readings from them due to the internal circuitry of the outlet.

Ah, I missed that.. I don't think so. If it doesn't run off the GFCI then I would be looking for an open neutral or shorted wires somewhere.

Yep, I always have two packed away. I've used them to help fellow campers but thankfully haven't needed to replace one of my own yet.

First thing I would try is replacing the GFCI outlet.