Boudicca908

Yes. I certainly did. And Yes it is my Oliver. And yes I love my Oliver. I'm trying to take care of her. There was a problem with the truck AND with the trailer. I wish I were an expert mechanic, but I'm not. I wish I had more space for tools, but I don't. I appreciate your posts -- they are usually very informative. I don't own the equipment, but I am trying to learn, and I lean on the forum members who have the expertise and/or experience to help me. I bought a caliper last year, but it wasn't very helpful to me trying to measure the size of that hole in the axle to figure out what size grommet I need, because the wires don't allow me to insert it fully. hahaha -- more wasted money, perhaps. Service Dept couldn't / wouldn't give me a clue. So I ordered a box of 200 grommets off Amazon that are shipping to New Mexico where I hope to make progress on this thing. Unfortunately, that is the way this issue has gone for me. If I knew a lot more about these systems, I might not have been taken advantage of by lazy or incompetent people. What to do? Learn. I'm learning.

I have no idea what gave you the impression that I have dismissed anything. I've done my best, given no space to "work" on my Oliver (not at home and not in storage) and given no tools (very few, I should say, because ALL of them have to be stored in the truck or the trailer, as I have no garage). I take everything here to heart. Please cut me some slack. I'm trying, believe me, to end my nightmare.

Thank you very much for the linked thread! Will read it when I get to my next destination later today. In process of breaking camp now and hitting the road. :) It's interesting that my messages never reported Trailer Disconnected (except when I unplug the 7 pin connector, of course). My messages have always come as the pair: Check Trailer Wiring AND Trailer Brakes Connected. Rewiring is sounding more and more likely to be on my plate in the near future, especially if it clears all of this up. So, I read that link in the past and I have saved both of them for re-reading later. I will add a couple of notes: Everyone associated with Chevy GM said "it's the trailer" and everyone NOT associated with Chevy GM said "it's the truck." My 'last' auto mechanic was careful to check the ground connection at the bus bar (that was one of the first things he did). It all looked okay to him, and to me (though I don't know much about electrical). I suspect the wires inside the axles are damaged, having seen the insulation rubbed near the wheels. And my mechanic said he found 'bare copper wire' which didn't make him very happy. I'm surprised, given the issues encountered, that OTT hasn't changed the way they approach this brake wiring -- and maybe they have changed it? My trailer is four years old now. Thanks to all for the help, links, comments, etc. I will be back.

Yes -- I have a friend at home who actually suggested that, but I didn't find a person available to test it that way. However, once I arrive in NM where I am meeting another Oliver owner, maybe she will be willing to test that out. No matter the cause, those wires being subjected to rubbing at the axles is ... no good. I will look for Mike Thompson (or a post, if he made one here on the forum?) I am not on facebook.

Last September (2025) I mentioned this issue in another thread, and said I would post a new thread when I had it resolved. The thing is -- I don't have it resolved. I've been chasing this for months, unhappily. So I am going to share the saga, I will try to boil it down into concise bits, and maybe some of our more mechanically inclined members will have some ideas and suggestions. TV is a 2023 Chevy Silverado HD 2500 diesel truck. Oliver is a 2022 Elite 2, bought new from OTT. In early September 2025 I needed new tires. I dropped my truck off in the late afternoon at a reputable place in Pinedale WY. I asked them to check the spare while they were working on it. The following morning they called to inform me that my batteries were dead, so I needed new batteries as well. The next afternoon I picked up my truck; by the time I arrived back at camp, it was getting dark. I shut off the truck and discovered they had turned on my overhead lights and left them on (hence my dead batteries?)... In the morning I hooked up to tow to my next destination, and began getting alternating warning messages on my dashboard and center console: "Check Trailer Wiring" and "Trailer Brakes Connected" I pulled over (not 5 miles from camp) and checked my 7 pin connector; it looked clean, was firmly attached, my trailer lights all seemed to be working. But the messages continued. I could 'dismiss' these messages from the steering wheel, but they would pop back up immediately and they interrupted my view of my map on the center console, making it difficult to follow. In Denver CO, I had 10 days with family. I was convinced that something had happened to my wiring under the truck near the spare tire (wires, modules all in proximity.) I took my truck to two Chevy GM dealerships; neither had time for me nor would they allow me to bring the TT on site, but each ran their diagnostic and both came up with these history codes: B1325 Control Module Power Circuit Low Voltage, failure code 0x03; C1114 Trailer Brake Control Solenoid Valves Control Circuit, failure code 0x00; and P0562 Voltage Low, fail code 0x00. I call ahead to Amarillo TX dealership, explain the situation, guy on phone says he knows exactly what is wrong. Make appt. They don't do anything on Friday except change the oil; then the electrical guy is off for the weekend. I finally get the truck the next week, with this description: "Verified concern. Connected scan tool, found DTC C114 set in chassis control module, Checked trailer 7 pin connector for signs of corrosion, none found. Removed connector x188 at trailer receptacle and inspected for worn and pushed out pins, everything OK. Placed test lamp at pic c to ground and commanded low to high percentage with scan tool. Test lamp followed command from low intensity to high intensity change in bulb. Internal malfunction in k133 trailer brake control module. Replaced trailer brake control module and cleared DTC. Test drove to verify message did not appear on dash." (They did test drive the truck -- 18 miles worth.) $400 bill. I hooked up my Oliver to pull out, and the warnings continue. All during this time, my trailer lights and brakes seem to be working fine, but the warning messages continue. Fast forward to February. I hooked up for a short camping trip in Florida and the messages return. **I should note: I can't keep my OTT at home, and it's in a storage facility about 50 minutes north of my home. I'm not allowed to 'work' on it at the storage facility, and I can bring it on site to my neighborhood but only for a few days each year.** I call OTT Service dept on May 3, to check their calendar in case I need to come up before I head west for the summer; they have openings both spring and fall. I am determined to dog this thing and to try to resolve it without having to tow 900 miles to Hohenwald before my trip west. I have now taken the truck to 4 dealerships. They all say, "It's the trailer." I take my truck to an independent mechanic and he says, "It's the truck, but the modules should be under warranty, so go back to the dealer for this." Just to be sure, I find a Mobile RV Tech, tow the OTT to my neighborhood for one night, have him do his service (everything checks out fine on OTT, all working, but he finds something loose under the truck and the messages go away. But then they came back. This is exhausting. May 2026 -- Issue was still there, and now my trailer brakes aren't working. That is a new symptom. I say not working, but it was really intermittent; I could test with the gain control on center console and sometimes working, sometimes not. June 3, 2026 -- Back to dealer (45 minutes north of me), "It's the trailer." This time they let me bring OTT in tow; but they still say, "It's the trailer." A friend suggested another independent diesel mechanic that happens to be near the dealer. From the dealership I towed OTT to Elite Diesel in North Fort Myers, it's 3:30pm. They make a cursory review for about an hour, and say they believe it's the truck. June 4th, 2026 -- At this point, I am nearing departure date, so I haul trailer home, take truck back the next morning, get a ride home. Within 30 minutes they call me, "Can you tell us why your left side truck battery ground wire isn't connected? It still has the black cap on the end that it's shipped with, the cap on end of ground cable was never removed from the cable." (I've made 5 visits to Chevy dealerships citing need for regular service AND this electrical issue and NONE of them noticed this?) My new mechanic thinks this has solved the issue. I get ride back up (45 min), retrieve the truck, drive home (45 min), connect the trailer, issue still there. I tow the truck and trailer both back to independent diesel mechanic (45 min). I have work I need to do on my Oliver, so the mechanic agrees to let me do my work there (greasing my zerks in his parking lot) while they disassemble the spare tire, remove modules, check wiring in back of truck..... Now they are thinking something must be amiss in the trailer wiring. They don't stock that cable, so I might need to order one. I call OTT Service to inquire about what model or brand Oliver uses, since I've read that they are not all alike; Mike says he can't help me, transfers me to Tech Support. Jerry at OTT Tech Support talks to me about the 7 pin cable. He says the 7 pin cables are really the same (but Chevy Service Manual warns to use the "right one" to correctly operate the Chevy.) Jerry gives me some solid advice -- don't let them cut the head off the 7 pin connector; if head needs replacing, take it back to the junction box under the vanity, and other tips. I have no idea about this junction box; I can't find it in my manual or wiring diagrams, but I'm not a mechanic or electrical engineer. Jerry sends me a series of photos that show the route of the 7 pin cable in the trailer to a junction box inside the vanity cabinet. (see below) He says "if it has to go farther back from there, it's a really big job." (Oh boy.) My mechanic removed the vanity panel -- immediately saw two wire connections are loose though still have the nuts on the connection (below). ** I need to find the correct caulk (and thanks again to Jerry for providing the name of it) Silicone: ASI 335 Advanced Adhesion 100% Neutral Cure RTV Silicone, WHITE. Until that is fixed, I won't be using my shower, since it's open to this electrical junction box.** He tightened that down. Then he tried to find the rest of the wire, crawls under the trailer, sees wiring going into the street-side front axle where the insulation has been rubbed off. I am dumbfounded, so I wriggle under there, stick my head around the corner; these are really small wires, going through a hole in metal without any protection; they rub on that hole in the metal axle, and I see there is no grommet on the hole. This doesn't seem right to me. He wrapped it with electrician's tape. I drove around, and the issue had cleared up. I drove around some more. No warning messages. I had not crawled all the way under my Oliver before, though I have been greasing my zerks regularly; I grease the zerks from the side, not from below. I gave my phone to the mechanic and he snapped a couple of photos that I shared with Jerry, before he put the tape on. I was ecstatic, and so happy that with 3 distinct wiring issues this mechanic was willing to dog it, find them and deal with them. And THANK YOU JERRY. This is June 4th. My reservations are all in place and I depart early on June 8th. Yesterday June 10th, I called OTT Service again to inquire about whether there should be a grommet on that hole, and if so what size or could they ship them to me? Mike says he doesn't know if there should be a grommet, doesn't know the size and doesn't sell parts; transfers me straight to Tech Support. I talk to Jerry -- my hero -- and I send Jerry the photo from my mechanic before it had electrical tape on it. I had already purchased some Liquid Tape, extra electrician's tape and a box of Wire Conduit (that black plastic sleeve that is used all over the OTT). At that point in time, I was not getting the warning messages any more, but I was not entirely convinced that the tape on the wires would hold up to thousands of miles of travel. Jerry encouraged me to keep my eye on things, and I could get it repaired during my scheduled service in October on my way to the rally before I go back home to sw Florida. Don't you know it, less than an hour later, the messages came back. My trailer brakes seem to be working, as well as my lights, but it's very disconcerting. I found a Walmart parking lot and spent about an hour crawling around under my OTT. I applied more tape, put on a piece of wire conduit (sleeve) and inspected the other 3 axles. (below - you can see OLD piece of sleeve on far right side, and my new piece of sleeve, and you can see Mechanic's tape and my additional tape which is shiny and not dusty.) Additional tape and new conduit sleeve (above) on the street-side front that the Mechanic repaired. Other axels -- I added tape to one, shoved the grommet back into the hole on another (below). PHOTOGRAPHS & CREDITS: Wiring into axle (2 photos by Elite Diesel in North Ft Myers); Routing of 7 pin cable (5 photos by Jerry OTT Tech Support); the rest are my own photos, including my junction box with loose connections and my wire at axle with question about missing grommet (2 photos I sent to OTT); and then my 'discovery' of the grommets on the other 3 axles yesterday. The warning messages continue though they are sporadic. SO FAR the brakes are working (tested by using the gain control on my center console, when traveling slow speed). I'm inclined to keep going on my travels. I have an appointment with OTT Service in October. But I am interested in any additional input, and -- if for no other purpose -- I submit this for others who might have to figure out where that 7 pin cable goes and possible places to look. *I did try to search for other threads about this, but found none. I feel certain I've seen some comments about "usually trailer ground wire issue" but didn't find it. Thanks to all who have been in touch, and especially JERRY at OTT Tech Support for his kind and timely service. *** Please note: my wifi connection is via starlink and might be sporadic, and only when I'm not traveling. ***

TECHNICAL SUPPORT TEAM answered my question -- I will leave it here, for others who might be asking the same. When you plan to decalcify the Truma AquaGo Water Heater AND Sanitize the plumbing system, there is a specific order that this should be done. It's logical, but I wasn't sure about any potential chemical reactions between the one (Truma Decalcification Tablets) and the other (a diluted water & bleach solution). FIRST -- complete the Decalcification process. Then flush the system with clean water. SECOND -- Sanitize the system. REMEMBER to put the system into BYPASS CONFIGURATION for the Water Heater during the Sanitization process. After Sanitization, flush the system TWICE with clean water. THIRD -- Fill the tank with fresh water Shout-out to Chris with Oliver's Technical Department for helping me out with this question this morning.

Generally speaking -- posts like this amaze me. We have a great base of knowledge and know-how here on the forum. Thank you to @Snackchaser and all of our great forum members present and past.

I remember. Our little community is festooned with flags lining the streets. Let us never forget.

So, are you going to the Oliver Rally in October? And are you going to open your Ollie for tours? ;-)

LOL -- I have all my remote controls in there, where Oliver Delivery team placed them -- but also these things: my fire lighters; a clear plastic travel "soap box" that I use to collect miscellaneous "mystery parts" that I find now and then; I keep 'em just in case; sandwich baggie with bulldog clips, paperclips, rubber bands and twist-ties small flat koozies small pliers and a screwdriver with changeable tips; pens, pencils, sharpie markers; small box of magnets; a pad of sticky notes; my extremely condensed "GO LIST" that is my pre-travel checklist -- it sits on top and I only have to take a peek to be sure I'm ready. But I like your use as spice drawer. My spices wouldn't fit in there, though.

Is that below the sink? I have one of those Sand-Free Mats and it's the bomb! I think someone at the Oliver Rally had one. It's heavy but came with a bag.

UPDATE: I scheduled time with First Responder Mobile RV Repair -- the owner is Darrel Kehne. He's retired from the Collier County Sheriff's Office and he and his wife have owned various rigs. He trained with the RV school in Texas last summer (his certifications are on his website). He was extremely nice to work with, very efficient with his time and resolved a number of outstanding items for me. He had heard of Oliver, but had not seen one before. I suggested he come to the rally in October. :) I recommend him, for anyone in this area of Southwest Florida. https://www.firstrespondermobilervrepair.com/ (note, there are a few businesses with this name, in other places...)

That's the approach I plan to take for Alaska.

Congratulations -- that is exciting! Are you heading to Alaska next?

I don't have time to chase it down today, but you might search for recalls on the OTT website -- I don't know if those stay in the feed on the Forum, but that particular recall might be under Oliver Technical Service Bulletins page?

On level concrete, I see. Thanks for the photos -- that makes an impression!

Unfortunately, I can't vouch whether it did or not, but I will check my photos and see if I can find anything. If I can, I will post back here.

I found my receipt from 2023 -- that local place (Horner's in Punta Gorda) charged $90 to replace the stems on all five tires. Compared to the closer place quote of $200, Horner's is a deal.

I know this has been a debate on the forum and I'm not going to get into it (about using the Stabilizer Jacks to jack the Oliver). But to answer your question, I will carry the tire ramp so I can grease my own zerks! It's so easy. Since I travel for months at a time, I track my mileage and care for those zerks all summer.

I was looking at my OTT Service Tickets today and was reminded that Cooper Tire had a problem with valve stems (my Oliver is a 2022) -- they reimbursed the Owners after the stems were replaced (locally done). The service notes include OTT Service Dept's surprise and my dismay at the cost ($90 for the work done here locally in Lee County Florida); OTT Service Dept said it would normally only cost $10 to $25. Anyway, I had forgotten all about that issue with the Cooper tires. Last week, after this forum discussion, I went to a reputable tire place to inquire about getting valve stems replaced (putting in metal where I have rubber)... I can't get my Oliver into their lot, and I'm not allowed to do the work where I store my Oliver, so it was going to require a Mobile Service, and I planned to take my Oliver to a large parking lot 2 blocks from the tire place. They quoted me $250 and when he saw the shock on my face, he explained that the metal valve stems cost $25 each (someone on the Forum just quoted $6 each) and he said he wasn't even charging me for the Mobile service! He offered to do it for $200. Needless to say, I will forgo that for now.

I have not used it to try to change the tires, but yes, I used it once to release the weight on the set of zerks that were not accepting grease, and it worked well. Taking pressure off that tire was recommended to me by other Oliver owners and by the service department, and I haven't read anything that suggested a concern about it. Do you mean that it's hard to actually get the wheel off the ground, or that doing so would cause a problem with the other elements of the trailer?

We should have a pinned Forum Post dedicated to LOW CLEARANCE. Thanks for sharing this.

@HDRider hey -- thanks for the help! And I just answered your question about zerks, and I hope it helped you out. Gotta love the OTT Forum. :)

I had a lot of difficulty in the past -- but resolved my issue. You say you know why, but didn't explain the root cause in your post, so I don't know if my issue was the same... My best solution was to use this: Tandem Trailer Tire Changing Ramp -- it takes the pressure off the tire that is being obstinate. Works like a charm! I hope this helps you. ADDED INFO: I bought some spare zerks as one of mine was messed up. They do come out, but I think it took a tool (I had a very nice guy help me in southern Colorado do that; I provided the spare zerk and he replaced it because I didn't have the strength or the right tool at the time.) MORE ADDED INFO: I always keep my zerks covered with those yellow grease fitting caps, and I believe they are a plus. Grease Fitting Caps

Thank you. Much appreciated!