Boudicca908

As noted by @Patriot -- I frequently check the fasteners after travel. I have my tires at 55#. However, a couple of rough washboard roads have convinced me to lower my tire pressure more. Even though I go really slow, the vibration impacts everything. This last trip, I opened the Truma AquaGo WH (outside panel) to turn it on, and discovered a screw sitting against the panel door. It took me a while to figure out where it came from. That required me to go buy a TORX screwdriver (star-shaped), and Blue (medium) Locktite. I also purchased some other new tools this week, for dealing with Zerks. But that's another story. I wish we had a "recommended tools" list on the OTT Service Knowledge Base (a more robust list, I should say)... because sometimes you find a need and no hardware within distance.

I added a photo (on my last post). This is the front streetside zerk that finally took some grease. But notice that the grease only comes through at the outside, and doesn't seem to completely penetrate to the far side?

Q1 -- Oh boy! Maybe that's why the service department couldn't answer that question. This is good to know; I might need to buy 2 different tools as well as 2 different size replacement zerks. Grainger's will be on my to-do list. Q2 -- Thanks. I thought I should ask, since I've encountered a case where one threaded thing screwed into another threaded thing can be opposite hand. Since I don't have the tool to get them off, I used my caliper to measure the one front zerk, and took the caliper to the local hardware store. It was my lucky day! The hardware guy turns out to be a machinist. He thinks it's 8mm but suggested that I come by with the Oliver tomorrow morning, on my way south, and he will help me determine the size and thread, and find the right tool. Or tools. I do have caps I purchased, and they make a huge difference. Thanks for the photo too; I like the look of those 45 degree angled zerk fittings. I can imagine it's a LOT easier to get the grease gun fitting on there with those. Oh good -- thanks! I'm learning! Many thanks to all for the help. I'll be at the hardware tomorrow, but likely not in a place where I can work on the zerks until a few days later. I'll follow up from there.

This worked! I first used a paper clip to work on the little ball in the zerk, and felt it loosen up, but the grease didn’t flow until I drove the other (rear) tire up onto the trailer aide tandem tire ramp. That accomplished, I wanted to remove the zerk and go down the mountain to the hardware, to try to QUESTION (1) ascertain the right size zerk (and buy some extras). I can’t get the zerk off. I have an assortment of adjustable wrenches, but none of them work. And I can’t tell QUESTION (2) which way to turn the zerk to remove it. QUESTION (3) recommended tool to use for the zerks? Can anyone answer these 3 questions?

As @mossemi noted, some of these questions are really subjective, and I agree that you will figure them out. That said... My tendency is to camp for long durations -- 3 or more months at a time. My longest stop in one place is about 2 weeks. This year, I boondocked continuously for 5 weeks, hooked up at a campground for a few nights during the extreme heat wave, and then boondocked for another 4 weeks. There were small towns with laundry facilities, grocery stores, fresh water, fuel and propane refill options. I have a composting toilet; @Cameron summed up the benefits. I'm very frugal with short showers and efficient dish-washing. I've never run out of water. I carry a 3rd 20# propane tank and that has been helpful. Space has not been an issue for me, but I converted from bicycle touring so I'm used to paring down to essentials. I carry clothes for all seasons and find that I rarely wear some things. I can go for about 4 weeks without the need for a commercial laundry. My shirts and socks are merino wool; they air dry in an hour. That's a trick I learned from bike camping. About 90% of my clothes live in the bulkhead on the rear end. I have the twin bed model and love it. Food is subjective, and relates to how you like to cook and eat. I love to cook and don't eat processed foods, with few exceptions. I carry my freezer full of meat, and cheese, milk, eggs, veggies and cold drinks in the refrigerator. I never feel shy of food space. In the pantry I carry dry goods (beans, rice, dried fruits, nuts, spices, oils, canned fish, paper towels). I have a stove-top pressure cooker and cook batches of stew, chili, soup or other meals that make several meals. In my tow vehicle, I carry extra food, and plenty of bottled drinking water. I probably carry too much food. My dishes and cooking pots all stow in the drawers below and the cabinets above the kitchen area. Some Oliver owners have devised clever ways of stowing things in their front closet. My closet is a catch-all and is not very efficiently organized yet. If it fits your schedule, I would suggest that you attend an Oliver rally, where you can tour Olivers that are set up in different ways. There are mini-rally gatherings in different parts of the country; I think one is coming up in Texas.

I should mention one more thing. There is a scam artist that spoofs local towing companies. A friend was the victim of this when I was there. I recommend that you look up and save the correct phone number/s for local towing companies before venturing out, in case you need them. My friend paid $600 in advance over phone and then the company never showed up; it was a reputable company -- but he had 'looked up the number on google' and it was a spoofed phone number.

@topgun2 how are you doing with the wildfire situation up there?

I have several recommendations, having spent weeks in that region this year: North Rim of GCNP is very nice, less congested, less commercial and there are plenty of NF boondocking sites that are within reach. From the Kaibab NF near the North Rim, you can also take day trips to places like Vermillion Cliffs, White Pocket (if you have OHV or hire a guide with capability), "The Wave" (be aware that tickets are required in advance -- for many of these highly desirable locations) and other places. Kanab UT is a great central location for camping before heading to Zion, as there are many things to see and do in that area: Pipe Spring NM, Dinosaur Tracks, Coral Pink Sand Dunes SP (where you could camp if you want hookups), as well as day trips from Kanab to Zion, Bryce, Red Cliffs and other sites. St George is much larger, and in my opinion it isn't as walkable as a city, whereas Kanab is entirely walkable. If you stay in Kanab, they have farmers markets two days a week, a great library, some interesting museums, good groceries, free fresh water and a very friendly Post Office where you can receive mail General Delivery (not all USPS will do that). I concur with others on trekking poles; take at least one with you. Learn and understand about driving in sand. Understand how the weather impacts the "dirt" (sand) roads. Plan your timing accordingly. As Spring marches on, and the dry weather extends into early summer, the sand becomes more treacherous. One Park Ranger warned me about trying to drive through the western section of GCNP (the section that is southwest of Pipe Spring NM) because "it's so dry that it's easy to get stuck and it can cost you $3,000 to get towed out". Don't pull over on the side of the road unless it's paved or you know that it's going to support your vehicle. I saw many 4WD vehicles mired in the sand, in late May and the first week of June. One area where I walked, the sand would rise up over the tops of my shoes with each footstep. It was like quicksand, but thankfully not quicksand. Once the monsoons hit, I was told, some areas of sand turn into mud that can be equally treacherous. This condition depends on the area, of course. You might call USFS offices in the region and ask -- I found them very helpful on information. You might switch around the order of your itinerary, to plan the sandy places earlier in your trip. That's my two cents. Have fun!

Thank you -- I will try looking for youtube or other videos about this -- because seeing the images of what I would call a 'bolt' and looking at the nut and head of the element that passes through, I don't see how to remove the zerk without removing the bolt. I'm heading to dry camp in the mountains this morning, so I will have to do this next step later. Will be night before I'm back online, assuming my starlink will work there.

I am revisiting 3 of my zerks today, that resisted accepting grease. I had towed to a new location, and 2 of them accepted the grease, but the 3rd one did not. I don’t own a jack (yet) and may succumb to the pressure to buy one, but I do own a trailer aid tandem tire ramp, like THIS https://a.co/d/3WPOXCa Would that work for this task? Second question: If I remove that bolt, will the leaf spring (proper name?) come falling out? I don’t have a great amount of upper body strength. (It takes two hands for me to squeeze the grease gun.) I want to be prepared before I venture down this road.

I carry plenty of bottled drinking water, and only fill my tank when I’m preparing to boondock. (When I leave home (SW FL) I have two or three days before I reach my first boondocking location.) I also dumped my tank before a stretch of road with 4 mountain passes, and then refilled on the other side. That being said, you need to confirm where you might find fresh water to fill your tank. So far, I’ve found western states have a lot more opportunities for fresh water filling stations. Some are free and located next to grocery stores, fuel stations, or campgrounds, and some towns even have RV stations where you can dump and fill for a fee.

Thanks for the confirmation on fitting OTT at GSDNP. The sites are full for the days I wanted, so I am going to try out Zapata Falls cg. I will post about that location later on.

Today I am looking at the Pinon campsite description: "Total combined length limit is 35 feet. RVs over 35 feet, or combined vehicle plus trailer length over 35 feet, are not allowed in the campground." and "Choose your site carefully. If you arrive in camping equipment that is larger than the site, there will not be an alternative site available and you may have to find accommodation outside the park." @Doug S and others -- can you comment on this?

Great work on your research! If there's an applicable discussion or explanation online, maybe you could attach a link in your thread, for future reference?

To follow up -- they both fit! I still haven't tested my generator, but plan to do it some time this week.

Welcome to the Oliver Family!

I have a LeeWay (a county version in Florida) and I wish I had the SunPass.... but mostly I am replying here to say that you might want to look at the tolls you plan to use before you go, as I unwittingly used a toll road to go around Houston (rather than through it), and I just got the bill in the mail: $45 for 45 minutes was the result.

I'm assuming (looking briefly at the website) that it requires a different hardware purchase, but the benefit being $50/mo in lieu of $150/mo -- am I reading that correctly? That would make a huge difference for me, as I don't stream very much at all.

Camping on Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia is also amazing -- or was when I was there tent camping back in 2012.

You might want to verify your insurance coverage, and driving license requirements.

I've done that a few times, and get lost in looking for the setting number. j Do you see that the nAt means "Manual Restart" -- and on the Xantrex App it uses the abbreviation "Man" for Manual Restart. So my conclusion is that I CAN use the Xantrex bluetooth app and that mine is set correctly. I think this confusion is due to Xantrex not correlating their abbreviations from the panel to the app. THANK YOU for finding this. I will share with Mike at OTT Service.

I have been in contact with OTT Service department recently, to ensure that I have my Xantrex settings correct, before I test out using a small generator that was given to me. I plan to post a separate thread about the generator, but during this conversation with OTT Service, we were unable to find the definition of a setting labeled "nAt". Anyone know what it stands for? For reference, here is my description of it and the OTT Service response. Apparently it's not a setting that can be set via the Xantrex bluetooth app, but has to be done by using the Xantrex Panel. That is a process that I have not succeeded doing yet, as I get lost in the endless codes and can't seem to follow them from one screen to the next, book in hand. MY QUESTION TO OTT SERVICE: Checking through my Xantrex Settings, I noticed the following settings on MY XANTREX APP are different from the "normal recommended" settings in the Knowledge Base article. (The Xantrex App doesn't provide the setting #, only the setting name; I've tried to insert the setting #s here for clarification). INVERTER (heading on app) #13 Inverter Shutdown Recovery -- mine is set at Manual Restart. In MY MANUAL for 2022 Elite 2 components, the default setting reads "Manual -- Man". On the app, my Xantrex is set to "Manual". BUT on the OTT Knowledge base it says the setting should be "nAt" and I don't find that defined anywhere ... I am still not sure what this setting should be. OTT SERVICE RESPONSE: I cannot find a definition of that abbreviation but this is the setting that would need to be changed through the panel. I want to note that OTT Service department has been extremely helpful to me.

Would you mind adding the direct link to this thread? I have tried tracing various Knowledge Base information from older posts, only to find the information missing, but it still might be helpful. I use the Knowledge Base a lot, as I continue to learn about the OTT. Also related to the Xantrex manual and codes: OTT Service department and I both tried to find the definition of "nAt" to no avail. I will make a separate post for that issue, but wanted to note it here.

Are the batteries on? On my 2022 each of 3 LiFePo batteries has a button on the top to turn it on.

And so did I, thankfully I found out with my brother checking my mail! I wrote to Oliver Service just to let them know that it doesn't apply to my Oliver, as I also have the 2-5/16" 12,500# Bulldog. I appreciate OTT for sending the notice.