John E Davies

I just looked closer at “Mouse”, and the subframe mounting bolt heads are facing out, so they are blocked by the fiberglass. I sure wouldn’t pull off the hull, tho, I would just drill access holes in that lower fiberglass lip. But in reality, I think having the trailer up high on a hoist in a proper shop would provide very easy access, to cut off the shackle and shock mounts, and to trim some of the cross angle-iron braces. Counting the removal time for the straight axles, I bet the entire conversion could all be done by a pro with a plasma cutter in half a day. It could all be done by the owner with a saber saw and angle grinder while lying on the ground, but that is a job I probably would not enjoy, not even a little bit. 😳 Oliver could easily do this at the factory as a pre-build option. They would just need to have a few extra subframes lying around, ones with galvanized finish but without the brackets and hangers. Installation labor on the production line would be minimal. Considering that they buy the parts at wholesale and the buyer would get a credit for not installing the EZ Flex axles, springs and four shocks, I think a $2000 price tag for a factory Timbren option (with Dexter electric brakes) would be very reasonable. Would you pay $2000 for this setup? I definitely would. John Davies Spokane WA

I got one of the first .44 Mag X carbines available, I found it at my favorite local gun store. I especially wanted the new 1:20 twist barrel (instead of 1:38, to stabilize heavier bullets) and the side loading gate. Unfortunately it would not feed any rounds, not even snap caps. They all hung up on the front of the lifter. I sent it back to Henry just after the start of the Covid-19 panic. They turned it around promptly and sent me back a very well running gun.... At least, with a big mix of different dummy rounds (five different bullets). Unfortunately I have not yet fired it. I hope to do so very soon. I really like it, but I much prefer the look of the Marlin 1894 with the brushed stainless metal, XS scout rail and grey laminate stock. But, for a “truck gun”, the X is probably a better choice. it doesn’t shout “Steal me!” Go here.... Big Boy X .44 Mag lifter hangs on next round If you would like to chat some more about rifles, please let’s do it using Private Messages. John Davies Spokane WA

The rack works fine with my Henry lever action rifle. This is the new Big Boy X model in .44 Mag with 17.2" threaded barrel, side loading gate and plastic stock. I had to lower the clamp all the way to the bottom of the track. The rifle is less noticeable, and the muzzle is protected, with a sock. When the rack is full of hangered clothes it is really not very obvious. Sorry for the out of focus pic: John Davies Spokane WA

Update, Fix a slow drain or airlock, by back flushing. Scroll down to the Nov 6 2020 post. I sometimes like to drain my fresh tank inside the RV bay, this tool saves a big wet mess all over the floor and I don't have to hook up the Land Cruiser to pull the trailer outside. I used a scrap length of 1/2" PEX pipe, a piece of 1/2" automotive heater hose, a 90 degree elbow water hose, and a female 1/2" garden hose adapter. I had all the parts in my scrap bins, so it took all of three minutes to build it. You can reach the tank drain line without even crawling under the trailer, and the elbow will stay in place without any clamp. I timed the drain process with a nearly full fresh tank and it did not take any longer to empty with this adapter and a 25 foot 5/8" garden hose run out the back door, with only 2 feet of drop at the far end - it took about 22 minutes, with the coupler raised six inches.. I like this tool, it is simple and does not leak, quick to use, yet elegant in function. John Davies Spokane WA

Does it actually provide a lift? Because that is the only way you would gain any extra upward travel on an Ollie John Davies Spokane WA

I guess I need to go out and lie down on a piece of cardboard and look closer. Why does the hull have to come off?That seems like a really awkward design feature.... You wouldn't necessarily have to remove it, though fabrication would be a whole lot easier with it upside down on supports. You would have to grind off the spring hangers and maybe the shock mounts. It is super easy to reinforce the Timbren units - you just add a length of 2x3” steel tubing between the existing sockets. It fits up high, giving about 5 more inches of clearance than a straight axle. The Lippert system will not do a thing to correct the severe lack of vertical travel of each wheel. On my trailer there is just 1.5” of up travel before the ubolts contact the subframe. The Timbrens have about 3” up and (the article says) a total of 4”. Not great by offroad standards, but way better than the Dexter springs. And it is progressively dampened, so no more banging and crunching.... I like simple, low maintenance designs. The Timbren meets that criterion. A tandem installation has just four grease fitting, for the pivot bushings. The Dexter EZ Flex is really complex with its 20 zerks and four leak prone shock absorbers. it is a messy PITA. John Davies Spokane WA

Here is a really interesting discussion of this rugged kit. I wonder how well it could be adapted to an OL2? Because the frame already has a stout steel subframe it should be an ideal platform.... the 3500 pound units use 6000 pound rated spindles and bearings. Woohoo! https://www.off-road.com/blog/timbren-axle-less-trailer-suspension-review/ These sell for $760 per axle at eTrailer. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Suspension/Timbren/ASR35HDS02.html I would go whole hog and add disk brakes at the same time. OTH I would be very reluctant to be the first to do this, from cost and liability reasons. I wonder if the factory would consider building a test mule for high speed highway stability testing and off- pavement testing....? Any idea how hard it would be to completely remove the subframe, do this mod and then reinstall it? It doesn’t appear to be difficult, if it is not bonded too ferociously to the aluminum. I think this would turn an Ollie into a stellar gravel/ washboard trailer. Because the stock springs are incredibly lame for this use. Discuss please. John Davies Spokane WA

I have never heard a sound from the hull, other than some creaking where the doghouse meets the front wall when raising up the front. I think you have a problem up top, perhaps a loose or improperly mounted AC unit. I don't have a clue why it would be popping continuously. That is baffling. But I think you should investigate, it is not normal. How loud it is? FYI my MaxxAir vent was not bedded right, it leaked water but it never made weird noises. John Davies Spokane WA

I don’t worry about clack clack clack. I run them all the way up until they make that unpleasant sound, but then I run them all back DOWN a fraction. I suspect that the rare times that these jacks freeze up is because the clutch has stopped in mid-clack and it binds up somehow ..... I have no idea if this is true. I have never read this. I am probably just wasting your time. If mine ever jam I will come back and post an update. 😀 FYI there is no way to lube the clutch, it is sealed tight. John Davies Spokane WA

Sharp eyes! You are the first to comment on that. I said a bad word when I first saw them. The jack is the front one, it has a plastic rain/ switch cover. The screws are self tapping and when the factory built it, they did not care that shavings were going everywhere. They don’t hurt anything. There were no shavings inside the gearbox. ... the drilled holes do not pass all the way through. ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4094-how-to-vip-3000-electric-stabilizer-jack-service/ .... I wasn’t trying to hijack the thread, I just wanted to show what the drive shaft looks like. The two in back have no plastic covers. John Davies Spokane WA

Stuck how? Does it blow the fuse? Make bad sounds? Have you tried cranking it with the emergency crank handle? The handle fits on the square shaft that sticks out the top. It might just be gummed up and need servicing. Please elaborate, John Davies Spokane WA

It sure looks as if it would work. I suspect that you haven’t removed your spare tire yet..... or you would understand that your idea is not prudent. The clamp tightens onto the inside of the wheel, but the clamping force is actually between the other sidewall and the gelcoat. The aluminum bracket is only supporting the wheel and tire weight vertically, it doesn’t really do anything else. It is beautifully manufactured and a joy to look at, but IMHO it is a really bad piece of engineering. At the very least, there needs to be a much larger base plate with an extended flange with a couple of fixed studs to go through the bolt holes, so that if the spare goes flat it won’t start flopping around. And while you are at it, make the outside of the wheel face the back so you can get to the valve. A heavy spare tire and wheel clamped to a pretty fiberglass hull via the RUBBER sidewall just makes me shake my head in wonder. Do any other manufacturers do this? https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2643-how-to-protect-the-gelcoat-under-the-spare-tire/ John Davies Spokane WA

On my trailer the small round hatch is for the Suburban hot water heater bypass valve, I can’t reach the fresh drain through that hole because the big air duct is in the way. Another round hole a foot forward would give access, but it doesn’t bother me to rotate the mattress 90 degrees to go in through the top. I rarely drain the tank - I tow with it full - and when I do, I am often operating other valves and inspecting for leaks.... John Davies Spokane WA

Maybe the nuts were overtightened? Compare them to the second picture in this thread. They should be squeezed to eliminate any gaps, plus a little bit more, but not super tight. John Davies Spokane WA

GAIA is for mobile devices only. I use an iPad Mini 4 Retina with cell chip (needed for the gps to function). An iphone running GAIA will integrate with Apple Carplay on new vehicles. Unfortunately an iPad will not, because of weird Apple licensing restrictions.... https://help.gaiagps.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041232334-Can-I-use-Gaia-GPS-offline-with-a-laptop- For travel, especially off grid on bumpy surfaces, a laptop is pretty awkward and clunky, I tried in the distant past with a different application, and a usb gps antenna on the dash, and it was a grim experience. Any device needs decent storage. I have at times had as much as 40 GB of map downloads. Here is an old pic, when I had a Ram 3500. I use the same mounting system in my 200. https://www.rammount.com/mount-builder John Davies Spokane WA

This is the standard pin, it has a very slight and rough 45 degree bevel on the small end: I used a file and a belt sander to make a nice tapered bullet contour. I polished it with 360 grit sandpaper after reshaping it. Optional: the holes in the ball mount did not have much of a taper: I used a 1” drill bit plus tapered polishing stones to open it up and smooth the inside edges where the pin will slide past. You only need to do the left side, the one you normally insert the pin from Now it slides in with much less fussing and swearing. John Davies Spokane WA

GAIA Premium allows downloading ALL the wonderful USFS maps, plus the MVUM layer. Without the MVUM you simply don’t know where to drive. What appears to be a main route will turn out to be a brush infested ATV track .... the popup Info window for the road tells you immediately. I lay out routes in different colors, here is an example in ID with the MVUM layer also active. I When you get out of the National Forest the Public Land and Private Land layers show you clearly where you can and cannot go. I quit buying those expensive paper USFS maps years ago, they just get torn, lost and outdated.... plus some states have so many different Forests (Oregon has eleven) that, realistically, at $9 each you just can’ buy them all. John Davies Spokane WA

It will run my small Atwood Air Command AC with NO Soft Start, plus the converter and the fridge electric heating element. I am sure it would run the standard AC unit (by itself) if it had the SS. And you are correct, it cannot be paralleled. It is very quiet at 53 dBa and standing outside I can’t hear it over the quiet Atwood fan noise from 10 feet away. One easy pull starting, every single time, if you run it dry before shutting it down. I did add a $20 digital hour meter/ tachometer to keep track of service. Highly, highly recommended! I use a super duty 25 foot 12 AWG 15 amp extension cord and it gets very slightly warm to the touch. If I had to run the cord further I would use my 15 to 30 A adapter and the Oliver supplied 30 A black cord as an extension. I have never needed more than the 25 foot yellow cord. John Davies Spokane WA

https://www.yamahagenerators.com/Yamaha-Inverter-Generators-s/1818.htm Take your pick. I have the EF2400iSCH and it has been stellar. A little big to lug around but it has tons of reserve capacity and gets great reviews. It normally rides in the back of my Land Cruiser. I lay it on the ground normally but I cracked a rib, so I have been running it pulled out a foot onto the tailgate. The exhaust is down low and on the right.... note the dummy ground plug. John Davies Spokane WA

In your shoes I would choose a much bigger mesh size and epoxy it behind the slots. I don’t see how a 10 mm mesh could possibly obstruct airflow. It would certainly keep out larger insects, like those pesky Murder Hornets. Add a strong magnet on the inside at each corner and along the edges and make a solid “storage cover” from Sunbrella or a vinyl fabric, with matching magnets (observe polarity!) to slip onto the outside when the heater is dormant. I don’t think you should travel with it installed, so a bright color would be good so you will remember to remove it. I have some like these, I actually use them to hold an old cotton sheet over a gun safe, they are super strong for their size, you have to watch your fingers when getting them close together.... https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Refrigerator-Magnets-Premium-Brushed/dp/B07B3SDRCP/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=Neodymium%2BDisc%2BMagnets&qid=1593276158&sr=8-9&th=1 .... depending on the thickness of the Truma access door you might need bigger ones. It could involve some trial and error. Let us know how it works out so I can make some for the fridge grills for dusty roads. I get dust infiltration all the way into the cabin, along the lower sill of the fridge door. ;( John Davies Spokane WA

I personally would not choose a Thailand-built Honda generator, motorcycle or other power equipment, but this particular problem should not concern you too much. Unless you also plan to operate your generator on the bow of your sailboat.... Google “Honda EU-2200 Recall Forum” for some discussions. From a boating forum ( unsubstantiated statement, but not the only place I have heard this) “Honda has denied warranty coverage to boaters that used their generators daily and wore them out within the warranty period. The warranty is by calendar time, not running hours and they had no right to do what they did. I know of at least two cases like that which were posted on different cruising websites.” OTH Honda has always been good to me for the (excessive number of) recalls I have dealt with. Buy a Yamaha 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

Susan, I had "Mouse" delivered totally naked, and after two years of people asking "Is that some kind of Casita?" I ordered a set of Ollie decals and installed them myself in a line, as you describe. The number of questions has dropped exponentially. The right side is a mirror image - the big "OLIVER" is at the rear. It looks very nice IMHO, understated and not too big. It is easy to install graphics if you prep correctly, use tape and a level as aids, and don't drink any beers before hand. I aligned the bottom of the small letters with the bottom of the large letters. If the factory won't do this, ask them to just leave them off and give you the decals, they can leave them in a drawer. John Davies Spokane WA

“Mouse” is sometimes 28 feet tall..... I have not towed with the pole extended .... yet. John Davies Spokane WA

In the middle of the Idaho Panhandle, we pulled off the highway into a river access point, and I think we ran over Dorothy. Only her Ruby Slippers were left...... Later, on a gravel bar (Island Bar CG, BLM, free) of the Salmon River three miles from Riggins: The view out the back was stellar, in Picture Window Mode (frame held up with a rope), including fly fishermen, lots of rafters and a few jetboats: John Davies Spokane WA

No, you have to drill the extra holes. I included pictures and info on how to do it - did you actually read this thread? John Davies Spokane WA